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New Beginnings

2022 has arrived, and ‘tis the season for new beginnings in so many ways. January has always had a bittersweet taste to it because it means the holiday season is coming to end, but it is forever the perfect occasion to start fresh. For DERMASCOPE, that means a new editorial calendar with brand new education for our devoted readers. This year we have done away with special sections and have included one spotlight article that showcases an innovative topic that requires an in-depth look but is not strong enough to lead an entire issue. This month combs through the hot topic of hyperpigmentation (and pigmentary disorders) with an exclusive article on microneedling and microinfusion.

Starting off with advanced modalities, when treating hyperpigmentation, skin care professionals can consider incorporating laser treatments with more common ingredients to even and brighten client complexions. Learn how to tackle this skin issue from many angles in Candice Morrison’s article entitled, “Combination Forces.”

Lyn Ross’ article, “Cautious Care” allows professionals to become more aware of common pigmentary conditions of darker Fitzpatrick skin types and the differing, delicate treatment options compared to lighter skin types.

For an in-depth overview on causes and reactions, Kirsten Sheridan’s article “Elite Emergence” discusses the science behind more uncommon and emerging hyperpigmentation treatment ingredients and what lies ahead.

Since more aggressive treatments can sometimes lead to worsening or reoccurring hyperpigmentation, Lydia Sarfati’s article, “Uniquely Pigmented” focuses on alternative, more holistic possibilities for treatment and a summary of common pigmentary disorders to brush up on.

Finally, Robert Mazon’s exclusive article, “Microneedling & Microinfusion” describes the details around microneedling and microinfusion procedures and how to achieve the very best results using these advanced modalities.

January marks a new chapter of DERMASCOPE. While we love our history and want to carry on the legacy my family built, it is important to grow and evolve, especially as we get closer to 50 years of being the authority of professional skin care. Readers can always count on us to provide continuing generic education, but as each year passes, we hope they fall in love with our content either for the first time or like it was their first time.

 

The Closing of 46 Years

And just like that – another year goes by! This issue not only represents the closing of 46 years of DERMASCOPE, it also features the second annual winner of our Cover Contest with, of course, trusted educational articles revolving around chemical peels and exfoliation. With so much to cover and celebrate, December’s issue is stuffed with brilliance.

Starting off that brilliance begins with Alexandra J. Zani’s article entitled, “Chemically Committed.” With peel procedures increasing in the cooler months, it is just as important to care for clients’ skin prior and post-treatment as it is to successfully perform the treatment itself. Discover how to qualify clients, what to consider, and how to protect newly peeled complexions in this must-read article.

Since chemical peels are a much-debated topic within the professional skin care industry, spas need to explore the milder options they have at their disposal, such as cool peels. Coming in hot with her debut article, join DERMASCOPE Ambassador, Cathy Wainwright as she discusses these water-based peels, the ideal protocol, and how to best manage client expectations with her article, “Cold Hard Facts.”

Stemming from the larger peel debate comes the question of barrier protection and potential risks. With so much to consider when administering peels, skin care professionals need to have a firm grasp of the physiology of peel formulations and skin, peel depth and activity, and how to always be prepared in even the worst-case scenario. Get the facts in “Perfecting Peeling Practices,” an article by Dr. Erin Madigan-Fleck.

Rounding out this excellent lineup of primary education, learn about how to properly layer exfoliants with the article, “Combination Exfoliation” by Celeste Hilling. With seasoned insights to various exfoliation methods, the best practices for common skin types, and a step-by-step protocol to her favorite exfoliating facial, this article will deliver on so many layers.

And without further ado, let me be the first to announce the Cover Contest’s second annual winner, Sharon Subdhan! She is a face of the industry lighting up Queen’s Village, New York that we want the entire industry to know about. Get to know her better in the article “A Piece of the Collective” plus a very special section showcasing our favorite Cover Contest applicants. The Cover Contest is our way to give thanks to the individuals who make up the industry, and we want nothing more than to share that gratitude with our readers.

 

An Aesthetician’s Recognition

With fall trucking along, it is crazy to think the year is almost over. November certainly looks much different than it did last year, but one thing that remains the same is clients and their skin requiring attention and care. While acne, hyperpigmentation, and age management will always be the top three concerns, this issue covers the conditions that skin care professionals may or may not be familiar with, plus a very special holiday guide.

Starting off the lineup is the article entitled, “Urticaria Uncluttered,” by Cali VanAelst. Hives can result from numerous triggers and can sometimes be unpredictable in their variances, appearances, and disappearances. With the many factors playing into this skin condition, learn about triggers, solutions, treatments, and how clients can prevent urticaria in the future.

Another concern affecting many individuals includes psoriasis and eczema. Often confused for one another, there are many differences skin care professionals can look for when assisting clients. Discover what makes these conditions flareup and what clients and professionals can do to combat itchy, red, and dry skin in Linda Kennedy’s article entitled, “The Realm of Redness.”

Continuing in this realm of redness, the third article covers all things dermatitis. From recognizing the different types of dermatitis and helping clients manage their symptoms to the pathophysiology of the condition, get the answers in “Dermatitis Detection,” an article by Janet Dunleavy.

The final article for this issue comes from Saian’s own, Dasha Saian Marchese. Afflicting over 16 million Americans, rosacea is an inflammatory skin disease that is triggered by exercise, heat, spicy food, and much more. Explore a rosacea breakdown, its subtypes, and the treatment options in her article entitled, “The Rosacea Report.”

Although the scope of practice for aestheticians is not clearly defined and varies from state to state, it is always the smart choice to know about the skin conditions that can trouble clients. A thorough skin analyzation should always be done (for new and existing clients), and an aesthetician’s recognition of common conditions can make all the difference in the world.

The Greatest

In the world of social media, it seems like it is almost impossible to get away from body talk. From fitness inspiration to fashion trends, the consensus states that skin is in. While of course, body care has its place within the industry, it is often overlooked for the complex nature and popularity of facial treatments. However, ignoring the possibilities of body treatments is robbing clients of self-care opportunities that will upgrade their overall wellbeing. This issue has a fantastic lineup of articles showcasing just a fraction of these possibilities. So, get comfortable, start flipping through the pages, and unlock the potential.

To start the month off, Shannon Esau takes on body acne and the challenges that come with this skin issue. Although most skin care professionals have had their fair share of treating and eliminating facial acne, explore her methods to helping clients achieve clear skin from head to toe in the article entitled, “Fully Flawless.”

For the second subject for this month’s primary education, take a dive into a scientific overview of everyone’s least favorite kind of dimples, cellulite. Cellulite is a cosmetic skin condition that affects the majority of the feminine population. With so many potential candidates for treatment, it is definitely worth investigating the different options available for care. Discover clients’ choices in “Fat or Fiction?” an article by Amanda Azar Walsh.

The body can be afflicted by many imperfections; however, excellent skin care professionals have the solutions for their clients. One common concern includes broken capillaries. Get a better grasp on this topic and how clients can achieve and maintain their results with IPL, electrical cauterization, sclerotherapy, and cryotherapy in Holly Sheppard’s article entitled, “Red Recovery.”

Lastly, with the world of aesthetics booming in every single way imaginable, it is no surprise that vaginal spa treatments are increasingly growing in popularity. What started with the Brazilian in the 90s has now transformed into treatments such as the vagacial, V-steaming, intimate radio frequency, and the O-shot. Catch up on the hottest trends in the spa with “Secret Service,” an article by DERMASCOPE Ambassador, Mary Nielsen.

Body treatments and care have come a long way, and although every spa may not be equipped to add these treatments to their menu, it is always the responsible choice to be an educational powerhouse for clients. Keeping up with trends may take effort but knowing what works and keeps clients happy are what separates the good from the great – and we know our readers are only the greatest.

 

 

Saving the Day

September is here, and with it brings DERMASCOPE’s hyperpigmentation issue. A hot topic in the professional skin care world, hyperpigmentation affects many people of all shapes and sizes, which means treatment plans must be just as diverse. This can be tricky as this condition has a memory of its own, so even when a skin care professional works to diminish a client’s pesky dark spots or pregnancy mask, a few missteps could mean a setback. However, all hope should not be lost because where there is a problem, there is generic, continuing education to save the day, such as this month’s primary lineup.

The treatment of hyperpigmentation is not black and white; therefore, it is important to be flexible with treatment plans. The fact of the matter is, not all clients will comply 100% with their skin care professional’s recommendations. Discover how to build and modify your treatments plans with “Pigmentation Procedure,” an article by 2020’s Cover Contest winner, Rachel File.

Although not every skin care professional will agree, chemical peel series have become a staple in the treatment of hyperpigmentation. Peels may be seen as an aggressive approach; however, with the proper protocol, they can work wonders for overly pigmented dark spots and areas. From a scientific breakdown of how excess melanin forms to post-care for newly peeled clients, get the facts with Beatrice Van’s article entitled, “Peeling Practice.”

Melasma can be a difficult condition to manage from the client and practitioner’s standpoint due to its interior influences and presence in the dermal layers. Get a handle on possible triggers, the best topical ingredients, spa treatments, and how to manage melasma in the article entitled “Color Condition,” by Lyn Ross.

While there are many routes to maintaining and keeping hyperpigmentation at bay, Dr. Ben Johnson has a different approach. His philosophy is that age spots may actually be a good thing – protecting a larger, damaged area. Though topical, active ingredients may have their place, they are not the only option when treating clients with hyperpigmentation. Discover Dr. Johnson’s methodology in the article, “Healing Hyperpigmentation.”

Talking with various skin care professionals over the years, it is always astonishing to see their face light up when they talk about the success they have had treating clients with hyperpigmentation because it usually stems from a long, difficult journey with the DERMASCOPE archive by their side. It is an honor to be a part of so many professionals’ achievements, and I would not trade it for anything in the world.  

 

A DERMASCOPE Bonus

Welcome to the first ever program for 2021’s Summit of Aesthetics! We are so excited to bring our readers this digital educational event for the second year in a row. Flip through the program to see what we have in store for the fourth week in September.

In addition to all the Summit brings, this issue has four fresh, primary articles all about the business aspect of the spa. Never be at a loss for business education with this fantastic lineup. Take a look!

Although an experienced spa owner can speak on the value of loyal, longtime clients, new spas or spas looking for a recharge may be on the hunt for new business. Learn how to formulate an overall image, get the spa’s name out to new markets, partner with other businesses, and land glowing reviews with “Creating Community,” an article by Dr. Lisa S. Jenks.

The pandemic brought many lessons, one of the most relevant being the significance of an established online presence. Taking on too much content creation can feel like a second job, but there are options for every skin care professional. Explore the opportunities with Melissa Black’s article entitled, “Social Strategy.”

As beloved as the professional skin care trade is, it may be difficult to maneuver at times, particularly during times of transition. Whether an aesthetician is just starting out or looking to reduce the number of hours spent in the treatment room, there is a blueprint to follow thanks to previous pioneering leaders. Read up on how to navigate change like a pro with “Trusting Transition,” a debut article by Shiri Sarfati.

Lastly, at times, spa ownership can be rewarding. At other times, it comes with its own set of challenges and complications. From choosing the right space and standing out from the competition to insurance and cashflow management, there is much to consider while being the boss. Learn if your paperwork is on order with Annette Hanson’s article, “Financial Fate.”

DERMASCOPE does not always get to run two bonus issues a year, but when we do, we like to hit it out of the park. Let this program work as a guide for this year’s Summit of Aesthetics – the knowledge, products, and access gained from the event will last you until next year.

Digging Deeper

With the many DERMASCOPE editorial calendars under my belt, it is always exciting to introduce new themes to our readers. While the magazine would be subpar without the staple themes like acne, hyperpigmentation, and hair removal, August is all about the chemistry of skin care. Whether a skin care professional is aware or not, treating skin is a chemical experiment and should be treated as such. Explore this issue and see what you missed in science class.

In the day and age where marketing drives much of the money spent on beauty products such as skin care and makeup, skin care professionals need to be cautious of all that is out there. Product formulation should be the be-all-end-all when it comes to choosing which products will be beneficial to a spa and its clients. Take in all the facts with Gina Marie McGuire’s article entitled, “Scientific Situation.”

In addition to understanding formulation, grasping the concept of nanotechnology within common skin care ingredients is worth exploring. While not every aesthetics practitioner is a chemist, it is important to know how exactly ingredients like hyaluronic acid, glycolic acid, and retinol fit into skin. Are there superior molecular weights to ingredients? What exactly does particle size have to do with formulations? Get the answers to these questions and more with “Small by Design,” an article by Gloria Lu and Victoria Fu.

Ingredients are not the only subject under the microscope this issue. Take a scientific tour of the skin types with Breanna Brown’s article, “Chemistry Contrast.” From the skin barrier and pH to the chemical reactions happening with common ingredients and how absorption works, this article will fill any gaps in even the most seasoned skin care professional’s expertise.

Lastly, discover the world of custom blending and all that is has to offer. With existing, established product lines providing incredible results, one might wonder if custom blending is worth the research. Chris Estey is here to set the record straight. Get the pros and cons and the do’s and don’ts of custom blending from his article entitled, “Mixing Madness.”

Skin care professionals obviously know a thing or two about the science of skin care, but this issue is meant to challenge those preconceived notions to dig deeper. We know DERMASCOPE readers are already the most educated practitioners out there, and we are always striving to bring them more. This issue is no exception.

The Best of Both Worlds

In order to keep up with this industry, aestheticians do not have the luxury to stay in their box of specific expertise. As the profession evolves, so must the practitioners who make it up. Whether you define yourself as a medical or holistic aesthetician, it is important to know all sides of the trade and find a happy middle ground when possible. Take the DERMASCOPE Ambassadorship for example. Because we wanted to represent all aspects of the industry to provide the very best generic education, we made sure to include professionals from every corner of the professional skin care industry. That way, DERMASCOPE’s education is all-inclusive and a blend of both worlds. Be sure to check out all the Ambassadors in this issue’s special section. They are all pretty incredible.

 In addition to the special section, we have a collection of noteworthy holistically medical primary articles, covering everything from psychodermatology and energy healing to the top medical spa treatments and how to holistically modify some of them.

This issue is designed to have something for everyone. Whether a skin care professional is looking to grow more medically by implementing new devices or taking on a whole-person approach by incorporating trendy modalities and treatments, DERMASCOPE has the answers.

 

I hope this unified aesthetic trend continues because it means that the industry is that much closer to working as one. While there may never be a utopian agreeance of aesthetic practices, an efficient center sounds even better and a lot more interesting.

DERMASCOPE has always prided itself on being the authority of professional skin care, and this issue will continue to solidify that fact. When the editorial team was initially planning this theme, we were so excited for this hybrid issue to come into fruition. Now that it is here, I can honestly say it lived up to the hype.

Avoiding Aging

Over the years, self-care has evolved to include much of skin care. Many women in their 50s today could be compared to women in their 30s just a few decades ago. Take Oprah or JLo for example. And it’s not just Hollywood that has caught on! Next to acne and hyperpigmentation, antiaging treatments rank in the most requested services at the spa. Is your treatment menu offering the latest technologies and ingredients to help your clients look decades younger?

As aesthetic practitioners know, it is much easier to slow the development of fine lines than to reverse the situation. Keeping the communication lines open with clients to work towards prevention is imperative. Learn about the science behind it all, cellular energy, and pairing various treatments for the best results in Andrea Gregaydis’s article, “Fine Line Formation.”

Although there is a number of factors that contribute to aging, environmental pollution and exposure to ultraviolet radiation tend to be in the very back of clients’ minds. Understand free radical damage at a deeper level along with antipollution skin care treatments and ingredients to pass the benefits along to clients with the article entitled, “Antioxidant Action” by Lydia Sarfati.

In the modern era, the aging process has evolved to another experience entirely. There is much to consider when formulating a plan of revision for the mature client, such as the theories, stages, and causes of aging. Discover the possibilities towards a pathway to treatment with Alexandra Zani’s article, “Mature Considerations.”

When thinking about the typical client taking on age management, skin care professionals may have a certain image of what that might look like. However, as skin care becomes increasingly relevant to younger generations, the need to market preventative aging services and products may be in order. Read about the new antiaging client in “Gen Z & Millennials,” an article by Dasha Saian Marchese.

Growing up in this industry, it is easy to see how pertinent the skin concern of aging becomes with each passing year. The trick to aging gracefully is clearly prevention, and luckily, I have never been short of education when it comes to age management. I’d like to think the feeling is mutual when it comes to our readers.

Latest Launches

 

DERMASCOPE’s Latest Launches department shares some of the industry’s most recognizable brands current and newest arrivals on the market. Take a look at some of the highly popularized, most recently released products in the industry.

 

Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare

All-Physical SPF Lightweight Wrinkle Defense SPF 30is a physical, oil-free sunscreen that blends into all skin tones without leaving a white, pasty residue. drdennisgross.com

 

COSMEDIX

Resync Revitalizing Night Cream is a hydrating, long-lasting moisturizer that quenches skin during sleep. Formulated with groundbreaking, plate-based extracts like snow mushroom and kakudu plum, it wraps the complexion in antioxidant-rich ingredients to restore radiance and revitalize the look of skin while delivering unprecedented hydration. cosmedix.com

 

AnteAGE

AnteAGERegenzymeis an acid-free, enzymatic exfoliant made from papaya, pineapple, pumpkin, and pomegranate extracts that naturally at dead skin cells.Skin feels polished, glowing, and hydrated. anteage.com

 

BiON Skincare

BiON Skincare’s Mandelic 5% Toner Pads tone, exfoliate, and brighten all in one. BiON has combined mandelic, lactic, azelaic acid, niacinamide, and essential oils to produce a toner for mature and acneicskin. bionresearch.com

 

Sorella Apothecary

Pore Primer Extraction Solution eases extractions without irritation. This pore primer raises the pH of skin, helping in the release of congestion. sorellaapothecary.com

 

 

 

 

 

Sun-Soaked Problems

 

Although skin care professionals continue to convey the importance of sun care and wearing sunscreen, it never ceases to amaze me how many people think they are exempt from the holy grail of preventative aging because they “don’t go outside.” With exception of those living in windowless houses and traveling by tunnel, sun protection products are nonnegotiable. Explore the feature articles this month to give clients the most up-to-date answers on their sun-soaked problems.

In a skin care professional’s SPF-rich world, it may be tempting to cast away the sun’s rays for good. However, this is not plausible, and clients still require education to guide them through smart sun care choices, especially in the summertime. Read over Celeste Hilling’s article entitled, “Basking Beauty” to learn about environmental exposure, prescribing effective sun care, why it matters, and how conduct a thorough self-examination.

Although each and every client should take sun care seriously, those who are allergic to the sun must take extra care in the warmer months of the year. Photosensitivities cause amplified skin reactions to the sun and put those who suffer from this condition at risk for long-term skin damage and even cancer. Learn about the various sun sensitivities, what ingredients and treatments these clients should avoid, and how to protect the body from serious harm with “Photosensitivity Facets,” an article by Annette Hanson. 

Even with the excess amount of education given on sun care, clients turning up with a sunburn from a summer day gone too long is inevitable for most skin care professionals. Discover how to spot the difference between short-term versus long-term damage, how to select the right treatments and products for clients to heal, and how to avoid the situation from happening again with the article, “Sunburn Blues” by Melissa Morris.

Summer may mean different things to different people, but sunburns and skin damage could be a thing of the past with the right approach and most trusted education. We know our readers would never skip out on sunscreen, but thanks to this issue, they will never be short of reasoning when clients do. 

Sunless Products & SPF

Dr. Dennis Gross

The new Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare All-Physical Lightweight Wrinkle Defense SPF 30 is built to be an everyday, oil-free, and fragrance-free sunscreen. Tested on Fitzpatrick Ⅰ through ,this product is blendable on all skin tones without leaving a white cast and combines potent antioxidants to defend against sun damage while preventing fine lines and wrinkles. drdennisgross.com

Sorella Apothecary

Quench & Protect SPFis a sunscreen with all the bells and whistles, including protection from harmful rays, moisturizing ingredients, and skin soothers. sorellaapothecary.com

Bella Schneider Beauty

BB Plus SPF 35 is a universal beauty balm to conceal, hydrate, and protect for normal and dry skin. It is ideal for travel and daily touch-ups and gentle enough to be used after any peel or procedure.pro.bellaschneiderbeauty.com

Suntegrity Skincare

Natural Self Tanner with eco-certified docosahexaenoic acid from sugar beets gives skin a golden tan while organic butters and oils provide deep hydration. suntegrityskincare.com

RA Skin Cosmeceuticals

The RA Skin Cosmeceuticals Sheer Tint Finisher SPF18 is a broad-spectrum, aloe and mineral-based day cream. It provides natural ultraviolet protection and potent antioxidant support to reduce redness. A soothing finisher that moisturizes while providing the perfect hint of color, it leaves skin protected, refreshed, and glowing. rhondaallison.com

BiON Skincare

BiON's Tinted Mineral SPF 35 includes titanium dioxide and zinc oxide for excellent physical protection against ultraviolet radiation. The creamy consistency goes on smoothly and is nonirritating to the eyes. Moisture, color, and protection in one quick step. bionresearch.com

Epionce

Epionce Daily Shield Tinted SPF 50 is a cosmetically elegant, broad-spectrum tinted sunscreen that is ideal for all skin types and tones. epionce.com

SAIAN Natural Clinical Skincare

SAIANLightly Tinted Mineral Sunscreen provides broad-spectrum ultraviolet rays protection with a subtle hint of tint and the benefits of antiaging and antioxidant healing. This lightly tinted sunscreen evenout the appearance of irregular skin tone and isparaben-free. saian.net

Sothys USA

SPF30 Protective Lotion Face & Bodyis atwo-in-one emulsion for the face and body. It is perfect for protecting all skin types in a nonsticky and nondehydrating formula. The skin is enhanced with a glowing tan. sothys-usa.com

SunFx America

SunFX Hydrating Facial Tanning Mist prolongstan and builds a gorgeous bronze glow.

It is rich in protein building blockstonourish and condition the face and décolletage. sunfxamerica.com

Pevonia

YouthRenew Tinted Cream SPF 30five-in-one cream gives clients an effortlessly finished look. It smooths away wrinkles with hyaluronic acid, moisturizes, and protects with broad-spectrum 30. This product reduces redness and inflammation and brightens skin. pevoniapro.com

iS Clinical

Extreme Protect SPF 40 is a multilevel environmentally protective treatment formula featuringExtremozyme technology combined with scientifically advanced all-physical sunscreen actives. This antioxidant-rich, state-of-the-art broad-spectrum ultraviolet rays sunscreensupports optimal skin health as it moisturizes and protects.isclincal.com

IMAGE Skincare

PREVENTION+ Daily Matte Moisturizer SPF 32+is a lightweight, daily moisturizer that incorporates innovative technology to absorb surface oils and leaves the skin with a clean, matte finish. imageskincare.com

Nature Pure Labs

Skin Glow Tinted Mineral Moisturescreen SPF 50 is infused with certified organic botanicals andbroad-spectrumultraviolet rays and is ideal for all agesand skin types. It is the safest sun defense forskin. The formula incorporates efficaciousingredients that are gentle for even sensitive skin. naturepure.com

TIZO Skincare

TIZO3 offers sheer, tinted, all-mineral sun protection with an elegant matte finish.Layers invisibly and doubles as a silky makeup primer. tizoskin.com

DMK- Danné Montague-King Co.

NutraScreen is a water-resistant nourishing cream that provides broad-spectrum UVA and UVB screening with high protection. It protects skin and cell integrity against toxic chemicals and forms a biomimetic shield against pollution and smog. NutraScreen contains amino acids, proteins, antioxidants, and critical ingredients, making it great for daily use. dannemking.com

Farmhouse Fresh Goods

Elevated Shade Age-Defending 100% Mineral Sunscreenis mattifying sunscreen not likeother sun protection factor products. It treats skin complexion to a cocktail of skin-loving and youth-defending antioxidants, including vitamins C, E,and B3 (niacinamide) to visibly improve skin tone, pores, and fine lines and wrinkles. Smoothing hydration from hyaluronic acid makes this loved by all skin types. farmhousefreshgoods.com

Skinbetter science

Skinbetter Science’sSunbetter TONE SMART SPF 75 Sunscreen Lotionis the first broad-spectrum protection in a tone-adapting lotion that provides a hint of color. The 100% mineral sunscreen includes Skinbetter’s patented Advanced Mineral Protection, along with an oil-free 80-minute water resistance formula. The creamy lotion is designed for all skin types and suitable for sensitive and post-procedure skin. It can also be used as a primer under makeup or in place of a light coverage foundation. skinbetter.com

Summertime Guide

For the first time in what seems like forever, summer 2021 is the first season to resemble the past’s normal. With the growing number of COVID-19 vaccines being administrated, clients and skin care professionals are now faced with more sun-soaked situations, social or otherwise. More exposure allows for more opportunities to educate clients on how the sun can damage skin, along with preventative measures and exploring the sunless options to achieving the perfect, golden tan. That is why DERMASCOPE created this special summertime guide to navigate our readers’ return to a familiar, long-missed summer. 

 

The Monthly Follow

Each month DERMASCOPE shares a recommendation of the latest aesthetician we cannot seem to get enough of. Our latest favorite to follow is a results-driven skin specialist whose love for skin goes beyond the surface. View @ashely_aesthetics profile and posts and see why DERMASCOPE finds her content clear cut and a perfect measure of skin care with design.

 

Happy May and welcome to another monthly follow that DERMASCOPE recommends.Based in the medical side of the industry, Ashley’s Instagram focuses on sharing educational aspects to custom treatments and facials. Her feed features its fair share of Hydrafacial treatments and satisfying dermaplaning videos. While many skin care professionals’ Instagram feeds are made up of content like this, @ashley_aesthetics dedication to explaining her treatments with care is what sets her apart. The easy breakdowns she shares in her captions provide other skin care professionals and clients alike with solid definitions on treatments and how they are utilized to create stunning results. When scrolling through Ashely’s Instagram, take into consideration the hard work and persistency that goes into posting and staying up-to-date on the latest in the world of skin care professionals on Instagram. With this in mind,take a look at her feed and give your fellow esty a follow!

 

Kojic Acid

Whenever people say, “You can never have too much of a good thing,” they obviously did not consider the ingredientkojic acid. A skin brightener in nature, this organic acidhas been cleared by theCosmetic Ingredient RevieExpert Panel to be used in cosmetic ingredients at the concentration of 4% or less, although it has been on the market since 1955. Depending on if thekojic acid product is intended to be washed off (or used on occasion) or absorbedby skindictateswhere the concentration should land.A good rule of thumb to avoid a possible allergic reaction, irritation, or rashis to keep concentrations around 1% to 2%. If a client has sensitive skin, kojic acid should be slowly introduced into their skin care routine, using the product once or twice a week at first. It should also be noted that long-term use of kojic acid can make any skin type more susceptible to sun damage. 

While it can be used with other brightening and exfoliating ingredients, thecoupling of products increases the chances of undue dryness and irritation, so it is recommended to gradually add additional products containing actives when already utilizing kojic acid. 

A hyperpigmentation superstar,kojic acid is the product of various types of fungi (such as A. flavus, A. oryzae, A. tamarii, and A. parasiticusand is present in certain fermented, Asian foods, such as soy sauce, rice wine, and sakeIt prevents the development of tyrosinethe amino acid responsible for the production of melaninBecause kojic acid works by prevention, it differs from the standard acid that breaks the bonds found between skin cells, stimulating exfoliation.

In addition to its cosmetic advantages, kojic acid has been used to create a nano-carrier system for anti-cancer drug delivery, it generates asubstantialpromotion of cellular turnover, and reduces the growth of tumors.

With its many uses and benefits, it is imperative to investigate the concentrations of kojic acid in any products being sold or used in spa. Additionally, client education is always a must but is especially important when using active ingredientsKeep researching to bring clients the safest and most beautiful results. 

For SPF’s Sake

A classic debate between skin care professionals has always been over sun protection factor. With the insurmountable plethora of sunscreen products on the market, skin care professionals have tested and shared their recommendations for decades. When it comes to physical versus chemical sun protectant factor, the true winner from our recent Instagram poll was clear. With a whopping 83% of the votes for physical sunscreen, the true winner was revealed. Only 17% of skin care professionals voted chemical-based sunscreens as the way to go. 

While skin care professionals should already know that not all sunscreen protectants are created equal, a quick breakdown can refresh one’s ideas on sun protection factor.Physical sunscreens contain active mineral ingredients, like titanium or zinc oxide. These types of sunscreens are less likely to clog pores; however, some can cause a heavy filmy to appear on darker complexions. On the other hand, chemical sunscreens absorb into the skin fully (unlike physical which sits on top of the skin).The downfall of chemical-based sunscreens is their ability to block out ultraviolet rays like their physical-based counterparts

Overall, both types share benefits and most skin care professionals recommend a combination of both or some form that enables the profits of both. Sunscreens are plentiful in the industry of skin carebut choosing the right one for a client can require research, trial and error, and dedication to protect clients’ skin from sun damage and the like. Whichever sunscreen preference is preferred is up to the professional, no matter what an Instagram poll says. Want to be included in this monthly poll? Follow DERMASCOPE on Instagram and stay up-to-date on DERMASCOPE’s Instagram Stories to vote monthly!

 

 

 

 

 

 

SPF Saviors

Trendsetters share insights on SPF products they recommend for skin care and spa professionals.

Danné MontagueKing 

President of DMKDanné MontagueKing Co. 

NUTRASCREEN has all the benefits of SPF 30 with a base of organic screens, plus skin revisions ingredients.dannemking.com

Dasha Saian Marchese

CEO of SAIAN Natural Clinical Skincare

This oil-free, water-based sunscreen mist is perfect for sensitive skin, especially acneic skin. SAIAN Sunscreen Mist SPF 30 provides protection for all skin types and is convenient for reapplication throughout the day, especially on top of makeup.saian.net

Brian Goodwin

International Educator for Éminence Organic Skin Care

“The Lilikoi Daily Defense Moisturizer SPF 40 shields against sun damage, blue light, and pollution. For best results, warm the moisturizer in hands and apply to the high points of the face.”eminenceorganics.com

Hyaluronic Acid

Read more on these hyaluronic acid-based products that improve hydration and promote healthier, more supple skin.

 

Hyaluronic acid is a polysaccharide that is found naturally in the skin and functions as a lubricant to joints and tissues. The nature of hyaluronic acid allows it to retain water and act as a humectant in any skin care routine. This ingredient is an essential item for skin care professionals and clients. When used topicallyhyaluronic acid can leave the skin looking fresh, dewy, and plump. 

 

Featuring a synergistic blend of potent ingredients, Herbal Skin Solution’s Sun & Moon Eye Synergy Cream works overtime to awaken and refresh the eyes no matter what time of day it is. Using hyaluronic acid’s water-binding abilities, this lightweight formulation works to fill and firm the delicate under-eye and eyelid area while naturally brightening, hydrating, and nourishing. Try Herbal Skin Solutions’ Sun & Moon Energy Synergy Cream. herbalskinsolutions.com

 

Give skin a youthful-looking glow with botanical hyaluronic acidvitamin-rich strawberries, and rhubarb. Blending not only these three ingredients together but also honey, aloe vera, and biocomplex, this mixture becomes a powerful rehydrator for dry skin. Skin will appear plumper and feel silkier. Try Éminence Organic Skin Care’sStrawberry Rhubarb Hyaluronic Serum.eminenceorganics.com

 

Ageless Hydrating Serum’s base is hyaluronic acid. It will benefit all skin typesimprove hydration, lessen the appearance of wrinkles, and plump skin. This serum also contains the peptides Matrixyl Synthe’ 6, DN-AGE, and lipomoist for dehydrated, dry, acneic, and milia-prone skin. Try Skin Script Skin Care’sAgeless Hydrating Serum.

skinscriptrx.com

 

 

Pure Aesthetics

Pure Aestheticspridesthemselves on helping clients look their best, but more than that,the spa wants to help clientsreconnect with themselves and rediscover their confidence.Pure Aesthetics is a medical spa and premier CoolSculpting provider for the Gainesville, Florida community, specializing in aesthetic mentoring, tailored treatments, and comprehensive aesthetic education. 

Everything done at Pure Aesthetics is centered around one simple, powerful belief, “You’re beautiful.They are there to help clients see it. The brand andteam are defined by five core values that embody the spa’culture and allow them to provide clients with a memorable experience. These include integrity, nurturing, education, hospitality, and discretion.

In addition to being completely obsessed with all things beauty and skin care, the spa is extremely passionate about the community.The future is not entirely up to their team, but they believe they cannot go wrong as long as they hold true to their core values. More than anything, that is what sets Pure Aesthetics apart.

 

How long have you been a licensed aesthetician, and what made you join the industry? 

I have been an aesthetician for 11 years. After suffering from acne during my adolescent years, my desire to help others became a dream. Time flies when you are doing what you love.

 

What pushed you to open your own spa, and at what point in your career did you open it? 

I opened Pure Aesthetics five years after obtaining my license. With a background in business and entrepreneurship academy in high school, I always had a dream to own my own business. I had a vision for my community to have the perfect experience – a place that renews while providing ultimate, lasting results that reflect inner and outer beauty.

 

What is your favorite treatment to receive?

That is always one of the toughest questions for me to answer since I love so many, and there are many optionsRight now, I enjoy dermaplaing followed by a Hydrafacial. This combination provides the ultimate exfoliation and glow. My skin always feels clean and refreshed afterwards.

 

What product do you try to retail to every client? 

Sunscreen. Being in Florida, the sun isstrong, and sunscreen not only protectsfrom the sun which can create premature aging but also prevents skin cancer and keepsskin smooth and healthy.

 

Bedside beauty essential? 

Lumiquin Nighttime Formula. It is a wonderful moisturizer that supports the skins natural moisture barrier and enhances themoisture level on hands. 

 

Favorite skin concern to treat? 

Acne and acne scarring. This skin condition can be debilitating for people and having the ability to restore confidence by resolving this concern is very rewarding.

 

You can only take 3 products to an island… 

Intelleshade TruPhysical, Colorescience Total Eye, and ZO Skin Health Growth Factor Serum. 

 

Where do you see your business in the next five years? 

I see us either franchising or having multiple locations in the Southeastern states. We are currently looking into both options – expansion is definitely the goal.

 

What’s unique about your spa? 

The tight-knit bond andfamily-oriented vibe that we have created among our staff play a critical role in our ability to provide a welcoming and memorable experience for clients. Creating a warm, serene environment relies heavily on the staff’s ability to maintain a positive atmosphere. From the initial phone call to the first visit, we work to make sure thatclients know that we genuinely care about them.

 

Do you have a popular blog on your website?

 Yes, our team is always collaborating and coming up with creative content to keep clients educated in a fun engaging wayWeekly blogs keep clients in the loop on any specials, new products, or services offered.

 

A large following on Instagram?

Yes, we have 10.4k followers on Instagram. We love what we do, and we want to share it with the world. Social media is our source of connecting, and it keeps our followers and clients up-to-date on anything new going on at the spa. 

 

Contact Info:

352-332-7873

pureaestheticsgainsville.com

Instagram: pureaestheticsmedspa

 

 

Elina Fedotova 

Award-winning aesthetician, cosmetic chemist, Founderand Chief Formulator for Elina Organics and president of the Association of Holistic Skincare Practitioners.

 

How has this skincare brand helped professionals be the best in the industry, and why should others make the line their ultimate go-to?

I believe the Elina Organics skincare line is exactly what aestheticians need. Today, skincare professionals are looking for a well-established and reputable corrective clinical skincare product line made from organic ingredients that can deliver visible results. Clients are searching for solutions.The ideal skin care product line should have effective homecare products, servdifferent complexions, and have a wide variety of professional backbar masks, peels, and other treatment products to create unique and completely customized facials

 

When you were creating this brand, what gaps in the industry were you looking to fill?

Many organic skincare product lines are made from pure ingredients, but they do not deliver clinical results. I wanted to bring very sophisticated formulations that can naturally deliver active nutrients to nourish live skin cells and successfully compete with medical products results. Elina Organics offers aestheticians a wide variety of retail and backbar products to create their unique approach for each complexion.Most skincare professionals love to create uniquely nourishing masks and adjust the products to tailor for each client, specifically clients who have cancer, exceedingly sensitive skin, or other challenges.

 

How do you offer education on your brand

Instead of sales representatives, we use the help of aestheticians who work with Elina Organics to train new accounts locally. For all skincare professionals whovisit the Elina Organics headquarters in Michigan or the Elina Organics Spa in Chicago, Illinois, we offerthe opportunity for free, hands-on education. We hold regular online and in-person training workshops, as well as phone conferences. 

 

What benefits can spas and skin care professionals expect when using or retailing this brand?

All of our educational events are complimentary for Elina Organics professionals. For accounts, we do not require a large opening order or order minimum. We work with each account to create a unique approach based on their business size and needs at that time. Wealso adjust protocols based on their clientele. We offer a drop-shipping program, an affiliate program, and allow them to sell our products on their website as well. 

 

Besides working with the brand, what else has helped you become one of the best?

In 2007, I founded the Association of Holistic Skincare Practitioners to provide professional education on holistic skincare methods and the philosophy from the best experts in holistic health, science, and medical fields.  

What is your educational background, and how do you continue your education in the industry?

I hold a degree in chemistry and studiedherbology and homeopathy while in Moscow, Russia. Since moving to the United States in 1991, I obtained and currently still hold my aesthetic license and have continuously studied through cosmetic chemistry workshops and seminars in holistic health in the United States, Russia, and Europe.

 

How long have you been practicing and why did you choose this field?

I have practiced in the field for over 25 years. I chose this field because of the inspiration I get from clients and their life in order to create natural skincare formulas which work.

 

How do you give back to the industry or community? 

We provide complimentary services for people in challenging life situations and donate products. Wedonated hundreds of hand sanitizers, sanitizing mists, and skincare products earlier in the pandemic to hospitals, medical offices, and nurses. The Association of Holistic Skincare Practitioners is a nonprofit that I spend a lot of time dedicated to. I educate aestheticians on the safest and most effective methods and ingredients, education on nutrition, and functional medicine that delivers real results to clients. 

 

Why are these products on your must-have list?

1. Oil Control Formula 

  1. Ambra Lift Elixir
  2. Skin Recovery Protective Healing Cream 
  3. Angelite Crystal Elixir 

 

Find Elina on Instagram @elinaorganics,

elinaroganics.com, or call 321-722-8122

 

Beauty Buzz

Check out what’s buzzing in the industry, from new faces in the industry, award announcements, new products, events, and more, Beauty Buzz has got you covered.

CONTINUING CONTRUBITIONS

Repêchage Announces Ongoing Contribution to Benefit Beauty Changes Lives Initiatives

Repêchageannounces the ongoing donation of proceeds from Lydia Sarfati’s digital and print sales of her latest book to benefit the operations of Beauty Changes Lives. Beauty Changes Lives is a non-profit that provides scholarships, mentorships, and inspiration to equip and empower future beauty professionals. Proceeds will provide scholarship opportunities to help future professionals acquire quality education, including access to CIDESCO examinations to qualify for CIDESCO certification. 

JOIN THE CLUB

Meet Clean Skin Club

Clean Skin Club is a fast-growing company with a strong presence in the industry thanks to their original creation, the Clean Towels. The company was founded in 2019 and quickly found a strong market through social media. It was not long before the product gained popularity in the professional skincare industry with aestheticians and dermatologists. 

DANGEROUS METHODS

ASDSA Members Discover Youths Self-Injecting Filler

The American Society for Dermatologic Surgery Association (ASDSA) altered the public’s view about children buying and using hyaluron pens to inject hyaluronic acid filler into the epidermal and upper dermal layers of the skin. 

ASDSA member Sandra Lee, MD shared, “TikTok is proving to be an extremely powerful platform to communicate, entertain, and educate, which is why many physicians are getting involved and finding success there. Unfortunately, just like the internet, there is misinformation,and this is where the danger lies. It is very concerning to see young people posting a how-to on injecting their own lips with hyaluronic acid serum using an airgun pen, (similar to a BB gun) which pushes the product under the skin. So many things can go wrong.”

ASDSA has contacted the United States Food and Drug Administration with its safety concerns and hopes to work together on keeping medical devices in the hands of trained and properly educated medical professionals. Additionally, ASDSA is alerting state medical and aestheticians boards regarding these patient safety concerns and alerting consumers directly about the risks through social media and other education materials.