In an era where environmental consciousness has become an integral part of daily life, sustainability is no longer a mere buzzword. It is a call to action. The skin care industry, driven by innovation and an unwavering pursuit of beauty, is no exception. Beyond the promises of radiant skin found in lotions, serums, and creams, this industry is undergoing a profound transformation, recognizing the paramount importance of sustainability across all its operations. The global skin care market, which reached an astounding $146.7 billion in size in 20211, is particularly influenced by personal choices when it comes to purchasing, and these choices wield significant environmental influence due to their sheer volume.

In a world increasingly conscious of environmental issues, sustainability has emerged as a central concern across various industries. However, the skin care industry stands out as an area where the impact of sustainability choices is readily visible. This article explores skin care sustainability’s importance, challenges in ingredient sourcing and packaging, and offers guidance for professionals to align with sustainability standards, including innovative packaging alternatives and product selection.

Brittany Facio is an Arizona-based master aesthetics educator and expert storyteller. At AlumierMD, she puts her 15 years of varied experience to work as a global content development lead. She is passionate about how proper aesthetics education, sophisticated protocol implementation, and subject matter expertise can create life-changing encounters. She finds harmony in her life by enjoying leisure time with her family, exercising, and relishing the food her chef-husband makes her. She and her husband have been blessed with four amazing children. They have also rescued several fur and feather babies including their German shepherd, Hurk; cat, Luna; cockatiel, Sunny; and two backyard chickens.

Conventional skin care practices often overlook the importance of maintaining a healthy balance within the body, which is crucial for promoting healthy skin. Popular trends such as medium-depth peels, harsh foaming cleansers, and dermablading can all disrupt the body’s ability to fight off harmful pathogens and bacteria. The acid mantle, a thin film on skin’s outer layer with an average pH of 5.5, plays a vital role in maintaining this balance. Educating others on the importance of preserving the acid mantle's integrity is essential in protecting skin. 

THE ACID MANTLE BREAKDOWN

The acid mantle is a combination of sweat and sebum secretions mixed with amino acids, lactic acid, fatty acids, and more. This blend creates a mildly acidic environment that serves as skin’s primary defense against potential irritants, such as bacteria, viruses, and pollution. The acidity also restricts the growth of harmful microbes that prefer a more neutral pH. When the acid mantle is compromised, which can occur when skin’s pH rises or falls, it can lead to various skin problems such as acne, eczema, and infections.

A healthy acid mantle is essential for many vital functions. It helps skin retain moisture and nutrients, keeping it hydrated and nourished. The acidic environment helps key skin proteins maintain their optimal structure, such as ceramides that need to be structurally sound to form a protective barrier. The acidity also promotes desquamation, the shedding of dead skin cells to reveal fresh new ones, which is driven by enzymes that require a lower pH to activate properly.

Twenty years ago, while working as an aesthetician, Justine Kahn discovered the need for individualized skin care solutions, as unique as fingerprints. This revelation ignited a passion for understanding skin’s complexities and nature's nurturing secrets. Out of this passion, Botnia was born, which has bloomed from humble beginnings in her kitchen to a thriving practice rooted in her garden. Today, Botnia stands proud, transformed from a cozy basement operation to a full-fledged lab, partnering with over 200 spas nationwide. 

The origins of modern new age practices are typically very old, yet they bring fresh, enigmatic energy into the realm of holistic skin care. Skin is the largest organ of the body and is often reflective of the body’s internal environment. This environment is often unbalanced by stress, emotional trauma, and physical ailments that affect overall well-being. Therefore, it is imperative for aesthetics providers to look beyond skin and into the client at hand. This is the basis of holistic skin care and the pillar of modern new age practices. The treatment-room integration of these practices generally encompasses holistic techniques, such as reiki, Traditional Chinese Medicine, gemstone therapy, sound baths, and other immersive practices. 

UNDERSTANDING ENERGIES 

When discussing new age practices within aesthetics, it is important to understand the basis of energetic well-being. Many of the practices have ancient origins throughout the world that focus on the flow of energy within the body. This flow of energy is part of a complicated, ever-moving system, not unlike the cardiovascular system in some ways. Energy flows from the top of the head, circulating around the spine, through the fingertips, and down to the feet. The energy within the body is commonly thought to travel along pathways or channels, flowing from point to point, attracted to where it is needed. Many of the energetic healing modalities focus on the theory that these energy channels can be blocked, causing poor homeostasis within the body – working to unblock this energy can lead to increased health and well-being. 

Kristen N.M. Johnson is an award-winning, published nurse educator, integrative wellness consultant, and executive director of The Eclipse Spa in Maryland. She serves on The Board of Directors for The Nursing Foundation of Maryland in addition to her consultant work. With more than a decade of experience in holistic health and integrative wellness, Johnson is passionate about the health, beauty, and wellness industry. Prior to the release of her first book, “Waterwell Integrative Wellness Guide + Planning Journal,” Johnson established the WellGuided Foundation, a program developed for the support of registered nurses through self-care to achieve greater health and well-being. 

Skin is a complex and dynamic ecosystem beginning with the microbiome and acid mantle inhabited by bacteria, archaea, fungi, and viruses. Collectively, these microbes are referred to as the skin microbiota and are essential to skin physiology and immunity. The skin microbiome is a doorway to the external environment and is a complex habitat that is greatly influenced by the biodiversity of the unique ecosystems present on skin. The microbiome varies in each area of the body. There is a symbiotic relationship with microbiota that play an integral role in the maturation and homeostatic regulation of keratinocytes and immunity with systemic implications. Skin microbial populations play a significant role in health and disease and modulate due to intrinsic and extrinsic factors.1

Skin is a protective structure between the body and the environment with built-in defense mechanisms that survey, react, respond, regulate, and detect environmental fluctuations within and outside of cells. Skin encompasses abundant adaptive mechanisms to restore itself quickly to structural and functional integrity. The health of the entire body, including skin, relies on its ability to carry out cellular immune surveillance and response to microbial intruders, conduct biological repair, monitor trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and barrier defense systems and function, maintain cell-to-cell communication and signaling, and rebuild tissue systems to maintain a continual state of homeostasis. Dermatological research and studies confirm that numerous signal functions influence important controls in the epidermis that begin with or are triggered in the stratum corneum.2 All epidermal and dermal components must remain a sustainable force for cellular regeneration, tissue building, pH, homeostasis, and overall health and appearance. 

Assaults to the stratum corneum can interfere with its natural metabolic ability and function of maintaining a strong barrier. Consistent overexposure to ultraviolet rays, environmental fluences, wounding, lifestyle habits, poor nutrition, disease, allergens, and more compromise this barrier. Overuse of cosmetic products may cause a low trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), and excessive aggressive treatments could compromise the barrier as well. The proper approach to skin conditions requires a deeper understanding and analysis to recognize subtle symptoms. How should professionals proceed with preventative or remedial interventions that support improvement and lead to a healthier skin? 

Alexandra J. Zani is an international educator, licensed instructor, speaker, author, and researcher in the professional skin care industry. She is on the Education Commission of the IAC (International Association of Applied Corneotherapy), a faculty member of DermaEducation TV for postgraduate education, and NCEA nationally certified. Her career has included business ownership and management, consulting, product development, and authoring textbooks and industry trade publications. Her academic background includes cell biology and medical technology. Zani has received numerous advanced certifications, both in the United States and abroad, in the dermal sciences, oncology aesthetics, microcurrent, LED, and non-ablative laser. Zani is the owner of AEsthani Skincare Institute, LLC in Greenville, South Carolina.

Manual lymphatic drainage was developed in the late 1800s by Dr. Andrew Taylor Still, who is now considered the father of osteopathic medicine. He initially followed in his father’s footsteps by studying and training to become a physician with a typical, frontier medical practice. However, after the loss of his first wife and four children, coupled with his grim experiences in the American Civil War, he rejected most of what he had learned about medicine and searched for new and better methods. His explorations and research led to the development of a new system of healing. He believed the key was to find and correct anatomical deviations that interfered with the free flow of blood and nerve force in the body. His theories led to the founding of The American School of Osteopathy (ASO) in Kirksville, Missouri in 1892.1  

Lila Castellanos has focused her energies into the beauty industry for the past 19 years, specializing in skin rejuvenation. As a licensed aesthetician, she has lent her expertise to several different environments, including working as a paramedical aesthetician in the medical spa field as well as in both day spa and mobile spa business models. It was through these varied experiences, along with the interactions with her loyal clientele, that she honed her passion for improving and maintaining the health and integrity of her clients’ skin. Castellanos thrives on being able to use her extensive knowledge to customize each treatment to help her clients achieve the results they are searching for. Her adaptability and versatility are equally impressive in providing antiaging facials, treating acne, and minimizing the appearance of scarring or when addressing skin conditions that arise as a result of hormonal changes.  

Skin is the largest organ of the body. Protecting it from outside pollutants and chemicals can be a challenge, but what gets eaten each day makes an even bigger difference. It should come as no surprise that diet can influence skin health in a positive way. What you eat and how you prepare your food can either make or break a complexion.  

CONTROLLING SKIN CONCERNS 

Common skin concerns such as acne, eczema, melasma and rosacea can be controlled by simply changing how and what you eat. One fact these concerns have in common is that they’re all triggered by inflammation.  

Sharon Subdhan is a licensed aesthetician and wellness advocate in New York, New York. Her passion is to transform the skin with wellness and result-driven treatment plans. She is also an acne expert, laser technician, food lover, and yogini. Subdhan is a big believer on balancing lifestyle; she implements breathing techniques into her facial treatments which allow her clients to relax their mind, body, and soul. Since graduating aesthetics’ school in 2018, her mission is to educate and help women feel confident and beautiful.

You probably know that herbs and spices are used as an addition to your favorite culinary dish or cocktail for a delicious flavor boost, but did you know that they have also been used in skin care due to their beneficial medicinal properties? Herbs and spices have been a staple skin care ingredient, particularly in Hungarian skin care, for over half a century, and for good reason. Packed with healthy phytochemicals, vitamins, and antioxidants, the healing and restorative properties of many herbs and spices can treat a variety of skin concerns, including dryness, signs of aging, inflammation, and hyperpigmentation – all without unwanted side effects. Their popularity continues to grow, as many synthetic chemicals in skin care frequently cause side effects like increased sensitivity, redness, and irritation, and clients are looking for natural solutions. When it comes to searching for effective ingredients in skin care products, you need to look no further than the natural herbs and spices found in your kitchen pantry to achieve healthy and radiant skin. Here are some heroic, skin-saving herbs and spices that you’ll want to make sure are included on the ingredient list of your skin care products.

PAPRIKA

Hungarian spicy paprika (Capsicum anuum) is a staple in Hungarian face and body care products. Although the idea of using paprika topically might be new to some people, this spicy red powder has been highly regarded as a beautiful skin producer for hundreds of years.1 Paprika is beneficial for skin as it is packed with potent antioxidants, like vitamins A and C, that keep skin looking supple and plump by neutralizing free radicals that accelerate the breakdown of collagen.2 Paprika is also a great source of carotenoid beta-carotene, which can help prevent and treat common signs of aging like fine lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation.2  

When applied topically, paprika stimulates skin’s circulatory system to reveal toned and glowing skin, and this stimulation is triggered by a naturally occurring chemical called capsaicin. For those who have tried paprika-infused skin care, you’ve likely experienced the immediate invigorating and spicy sensation that typically leaves skin with a red hue for 30 to 60 minutes after application. This is completely normal as the increased circulation causes accelerated blood flow throughout skin, increasing oxygenation, detoxification, and removal of waste while decreasing inflammation to improve virtually every skin condition.2 These properties make paprika a particularly great treatment for those with acne-prone skin as the increased circulation and oxygenation in combination with paprika’s antibacterial properties can assist with clearing skin of blemish-causing bacteria.2 It’s easy to see why this should be a staple ingredient in everyone’s skin care routines. 

Brian Goodwin is an award-winning international educator for Éminence Organic Skin Care. As a master medical aesthetician, master herbalist, and consultant, Goodwin leverages over 10 years of spa industry experience to bring fun, engaging education to spa professionals around the world. Voted ‘Favorite Brand Educator’ in DERMASCOPE’s 2019 Aestheticians’ Choice Awards, Goodwin delivers influential trainings which continue to raise the bar for professional education and garner worldwide peer recognition. Goodwin embraces every opportunity to share his passion and guide industry professionals on their path to success. He has educated and consulted more than 2,000 distinguished spas and has notably been invited to deliver keynotes at major industry events across North America.  

The eyes, the proclaimed windows to the soul, give insight into people’s deepest emotions. Yet, on the outside, they tell a very different story. Comprised of the most delicate skin on the face, the eye area’s susceptibility to environmental stressors reveals the first signs of aging and reflects how much attention is given in this fragile area.

Vulnerable to the same aggressors as the rest of skin, the eye area experiences fine lines and wrinkles, dark circles, dryness, uneven texture, puffiness, and loss of firmness to a greater degree. Repeated exposure to ultraviolet rays damages collagen and elastin, thinning skin further and resulting in fine lines and dark, hollowed areas beneath the eyes. Skin degradation is further progressed through hereditary factors and daily lifestyle habits, such as smoking, lack of sleep, smiling, frowning, and repetitive squinting.

Chronic stress is increasingly becoming ingrained in day-to-day life. Many forms of stress are tolerated in many societies, but the health consequences of stress are not. Stress has the appearance of an unwelcome guest who is always present. Despite many research articles linking stress to a variety of diseases, it is frequently ignored as a culprit when skin problems arise. Skin issues directly related to the gut and skin are gaining attention. 

PHYSIOLOGY OF STRESS 

More than 100 billion neurons make up the brain. These neurons communicate by sending chemicals, neurotransmitters, and hormones. During communication, an estimated 11 million messages can be processed within a single second.1 Interestingly, the brain can also anticipate or predict certain outcomes of missing pieces.2 A primary nerve involved in stress messages is the vagus nerve.  

References 

1. Mahmud, R., Akter, S., Tamanna, S. K., Mazumder, L., Esti, I. Z., Banerjee, S., Akter, S., Hasan, R., Acharjee, M., Hossain, S., & Pirttilä, A. M. (2022). Impact of gut microbiome on skin health: Gut-skin axis observed through the lenses of Therapeutics and skin diseases. Gut Microbes, 14(1). https://doi.org/10.1080/19490976.2022.2096995  

1. Khmaladze, I., Leonardi, M., Fabre, S., Messaraa, C., & Mavon, A. (2020). The skin interactome: A holistic “genome-microbiome-exposome” approach to understand and modulate skin health and aging. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, Volume 13, 1021–1040. https://doi.org/10.2147/ccid.s239367  

1. Dong, K., Goyarts, E. C., Pelle, E., Trivero, J., & Pernodet, N. (2019). Blue light disrupts the circadian rhythm and create damage in skin cells. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 41(6), 558–562. https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12572  

1. Saif, G. A., Alotaibi, H. M., Alzolibani, A. A., Almodihesh, N. A., Albraidi, H. F., Alotaibi, N. M., & Yosipovitch, G. (2018). Association of psychological stress with skin symptoms among medical students. Saudi Medical Journal, 39(1), 59–66. https://doi.org/10.15537/smj.2018.1.21231  

Offering retail is a common topic in the beauty industry for good reason. Whether the idea of presentingproducts incites excitement or fear, the way it is done is of the utmost importance. Sharing options in an informative way is a great service for all involved and arguably one of the most important components to success. 

REAPING THE BENEFITS

The potential business benefits of retail are substantial not just for obvious reasons. While providing products to clients may certainly lead to increased income potential, it also greatly contributes to the overall client experience and retention. When products are purchased, a little reminder of the spa experience is brought home. For skin care professionals, this is also a crucial component for results. When seeking exceptional service experiences, clients also look for expertise. Sharing personalized recommendations is truly the best way to fulfill professional responsibility.