Spa owners have a lot of decisions to make regarding product inventory and management. Decisions regarding backbar and retail products can be overwhelming given the sheer magnitude of options available, and the thoughtful balance between ingredients, brand recognition, availability, efficacy, costs, and client demand is essential. Skin care specialists are expected to serve as knowledgeable client resources, providing expertise on a variety of products, lines, ingredients, and formulations. 

GROWING PAINS

Given the global growth in the skin care market, this is no easy feat. The global skin care market size was valued at $146.7 billion in 2021 and is projected to reach $273.3 billion by 2031, growing at a Compound Annual Growth Rate (CAGR) of 6.7% from 2022 to 2031.1 Sales of skin care products grew by 13% last year in the United States, while makeup grew by only 1% in the same period. Online beauty retailers grew 24% in that time, with skin care leading the way. American women spend nearly a quarter of a million dollars on their appearance in their lifetime, new research reveals. The women surveyed, who said they routinely spend money on their appearance, spend an average of $3,756 a year (or $313 a month), which adds up to $225,360 throughout their entire lifetime (ages 18 to 78). Male respondents spend an average of $2,928 per year (or $244 a month), totaling $175,680 or about one-fourth (22%) less than women throughout their lifetime.

Lila Castellanos has focused her energies into the beauty industry for the past 19 years, specializing in skin rejuvenation. As a licensed aesthetician, she has lent her expertise to several different environments including working as a paramedical aesthetician in the medical spa field as well as in both day spa and mobile spa business models. It was through these varied experiences, along with the interactions with her loyal clientele, that she honed her passion for improving and maintaining the health and integrity of her clients’ skin. Castellanos thrives on being able to use her extensive knowledge to customize each treatment to help her clients achieve the results they are searching for. Her adaptability and versatility are equally impressive in providing antiaging facials, treating acne, and minimizing the appearance of scarring or when addressing skin conditions that arise as a result of hormonal changes. 

In “A Tale of Two Cities,” Charles Dickens famously wrote, “It was the best of times, it was the worst of times,” and for the global medical spa industry, this couldn’t be a truer statement. People across the globe are tightening their purse strings and closely watching where their money goes. Yet, the global medical spa market is projecting a 14.6% compound annual growth rate (CAGR) through 2032, making this the best of times. According to Global Industry Analysts, Inc., the United States medical spa market is projected to grow at 13.5% over the next decade. China’s market is forecast at a compound annual growth rate of 18.2% through 2027 while Japan is forecast at 10.3% and Canada at 12.2%. Germany’s growth is a standout in Europe with an estimated compound annual growth rate of 11.2%.

MEDSPA MONEY FLOW

The 2023 trends show people are investing their money in themselves and in small indulgences rather than larger ticket items. For the medical spa industry this is excellent news, especially as medical spas are focused more on complete client health and wellness journeys. Advances in skin care technology and increased awareness of antiaging products among potential clients are helping drive medical spa growth. Prevention is a big market, and skin care professionals are in the right place at the right time. Make educated decisions when it comes to purchasing expensive equipment and survey clients first when necessary.

Internationally recognized aesthetic business development expert, Cheryl Whitman, is the founder and CEO of Beautiful Forever Consulting. She is a sought-after speaker and industry marketing specialist who assists physicians and medical spas in creating new profit centers, developing profitable private label product lines, ghost writing articles and eBooks, and identifying and executing new business strategies aimed at improving their bottom line. A celebrated author, Whitman’s turnkey educational system, “Aesthetic Medical Success System,” has assisted clients in opening or jumpstarting their current businesses. Her second book, “Beautifully Profitable, Forever Profitable,” provides solid, practical information on how to create, launch, and grow successful aesthetic medical practices and related businesses.

Skin is the largest organ of the body. Protecting it from outside pollutants and chemicals can be a challenge, but what gets eaten each day makes an even bigger difference. It should come as no surprise that diet can influence skin health in a positive way. What you eat and how you prepare your food can either make or break a complexion.  

CONTROLLING SKIN CONCERNS 

Common skin concerns such as acne, eczema, melasma and rosacea can be controlled by simply changing how and what you eat. One fact these concerns have in common is that they’re all triggered by inflammation.  

Sharon Subdhan is a licensed aesthetician and wellness advocate in New York, New York. Her passion is to transform the skin with wellness and result-driven treatment plans. She is also an acne expert, laser technician, food lover, and yogini. Subdhan is a big believer on balancing lifestyle; she implements breathing techniques into her facial treatments which allow her clients to relax their mind, body, and soul. Since graduating aesthetics’ school in 2018, her mission is to educate and help women feel confident and beautiful.

You probably know that herbs and spices are used as an addition to your favorite culinary dish or cocktail for a delicious flavor boost, but did you know that they have also been used in skin care due to their beneficial medicinal properties? Herbs and spices have been a staple skin care ingredient, particularly in Hungarian skin care, for over half a century, and for good reason. Packed with healthy phytochemicals, vitamins, and antioxidants, the healing and restorative properties of many herbs and spices can treat a variety of skin concerns, including dryness, signs of aging, inflammation, and hyperpigmentation – all without unwanted side effects. Their popularity continues to grow, as many synthetic chemicals in skin care frequently cause side effects like increased sensitivity, redness, and irritation, and clients are looking for natural solutions. When it comes to searching for effective ingredients in skin care products, you need to look no further than the natural herbs and spices found in your kitchen pantry to achieve healthy and radiant skin. Here are some heroic, skin-saving herbs and spices that you’ll want to make sure are included on the ingredient list of your skin care products.

PAPRIKA

Hungarian spicy paprika (Capsicum anuum) is a staple in Hungarian face and body care products. Although the idea of using paprika topically might be new to some people, this spicy red powder has been highly regarded as a beautiful skin producer for hundreds of years.1 Paprika is beneficial for skin as it is packed with potent antioxidants, like vitamins A and C, that keep skin looking supple and plump by neutralizing free radicals that accelerate the breakdown of collagen.2 Paprika is also a great source of carotenoid beta-carotene, which can help prevent and treat common signs of aging like fine lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation.2  

When applied topically, paprika stimulates skin’s circulatory system to reveal toned and glowing skin, and this stimulation is triggered by a naturally occurring chemical called capsaicin. For those who have tried paprika-infused skin care, you’ve likely experienced the immediate invigorating and spicy sensation that typically leaves skin with a red hue for 30 to 60 minutes after application. This is completely normal as the increased circulation causes accelerated blood flow throughout skin, increasing oxygenation, detoxification, and removal of waste while decreasing inflammation to improve virtually every skin condition.2 These properties make paprika a particularly great treatment for those with acne-prone skin as the increased circulation and oxygenation in combination with paprika’s antibacterial properties can assist with clearing skin of blemish-causing bacteria.2 It’s easy to see why this should be a staple ingredient in everyone’s skin care routines. 

Brian Goodwin is an award-winning international educator for Éminence Organic Skin Care. As a master medical aesthetician, master herbalist, and consultant, Goodwin leverages over 10 years of spa industry experience to bring fun, engaging education to spa professionals around the world. Voted ‘Favorite Brand Educator’ in DERMASCOPE’s 2019 Aestheticians’ Choice Awards, Goodwin delivers influential trainings which continue to raise the bar for professional education and garner worldwide peer recognition. Goodwin embraces every opportunity to share his passion and guide industry professionals on their path to success. He has educated and consulted more than 2,000 distinguished spas and has notably been invited to deliver keynotes at major industry events across North America.  

The eyes, the proclaimed windows to the soul, give insight into people’s deepest emotions. Yet, on the outside, they tell a very different story. Comprised of the most delicate skin on the face, the eye area’s susceptibility to environmental stressors reveals the first signs of aging and reflects how much attention is given in this fragile area.

Vulnerable to the same aggressors as the rest of skin, the eye area experiences fine lines and wrinkles, dark circles, dryness, uneven texture, puffiness, and loss of firmness to a greater degree. Repeated exposure to ultraviolet rays damages collagen and elastin, thinning skin further and resulting in fine lines and dark, hollowed areas beneath the eyes. Skin degradation is further progressed through hereditary factors and daily lifestyle habits, such as smoking, lack of sleep, smiling, frowning, and repetitive squinting.

Chronic stress is increasingly becoming ingrained in day-to-day life. Many forms of stress are tolerated in many societies, but the health consequences of stress are not. Stress has the appearance of an unwelcome guest who is always present. Despite many research articles linking stress to a variety of diseases, it is frequently ignored as a culprit when skin problems arise. Skin issues directly related to the gut and skin are gaining attention. 

PHYSIOLOGY OF STRESS 

More than 100 billion neurons make up the brain. These neurons communicate by sending chemicals, neurotransmitters, and hormones. During communication, an estimated 11 million messages can be processed within a single second.1 Interestingly, the brain can also anticipate or predict certain outcomes of missing pieces.2 A primary nerve involved in stress messages is the vagus nerve.  

References 

1. Mahmud, R., Akter, S., Tamanna, S. K., Mazumder, L., Esti, I. Z., Banerjee, S., Akter, S., Hasan, R., Acharjee, M., Hossain, S., & Pirttilä, A. M. (2022). Impact of gut microbiome on skin health: Gut-skin axis observed through the lenses of Therapeutics and skin diseases. Gut Microbes, 14(1). https://doi.org/10.1080/19490976.2022.2096995  

1. Khmaladze, I., Leonardi, M., Fabre, S., Messaraa, C., & Mavon, A. (2020). The skin interactome: A holistic “genome-microbiome-exposome” approach to understand and modulate skin health and aging. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, Volume 13, 1021–1040. https://doi.org/10.2147/ccid.s239367  

1. Dong, K., Goyarts, E. C., Pelle, E., Trivero, J., & Pernodet, N. (2019). Blue light disrupts the circadian rhythm and create damage in skin cells. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 41(6), 558–562. https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12572  

1. Saif, G. A., Alotaibi, H. M., Alzolibani, A. A., Almodihesh, N. A., Albraidi, H. F., Alotaibi, N. M., & Yosipovitch, G. (2018). Association of psychological stress with skin symptoms among medical students. Saudi Medical Journal, 39(1), 59–66. https://doi.org/10.15537/smj.2018.1.21231  

Offering retail is a common topic in the beauty industry for good reason. Whether the idea of presentingproducts incites excitement or fear, the way it is done is of the utmost importance. Sharing options in an informative way is a great service for all involved and arguably one of the most important components to success. 

REAPING THE BENEFITS

The potential business benefits of retail are substantial not just for obvious reasons. While providing products to clients may certainly lead to increased income potential, it also greatly contributes to the overall client experience and retention. When products are purchased, a little reminder of the spa experience is brought home. For skin care professionals, this is also a crucial component for results. When seeking exceptional service experiences, clients also look for expertise. Sharing personalized recommendations is truly the best way to fulfill professional responsibility.

Probiotics are extremely popular for their theoretical benefit, but I have learned that the science does not necessarily support their use. I also have been witnessing more and more skin conditions that result from taking probiotics including candida acne and H. pylori (redness under nose). How could this be if probiotics are the “good” bacteria?

Direct outdoor sun exposure is an obvious cause of sun damage, but many people do not realize the equally harmful effects that can occur from daily indoor sun exposure. Ultraviolet radiation leads to actinic damage, which is the chemical changes that occur in skin expressed as discoloration, uneven leathery texture, wrinkles, and loose skin. Regular routines, like daily commuting and energy-efficient lighting, could be damaging to skin. Understanding the sources of indoor solar damage and the protocols to protect skin can minimize and prevent its adverse effects.

SUNLIGHT FROM THE OUTSIDE IN

The most straightforward indoor culprit of sun damage is the sunlight that passes through windows. Although most ultraviolet B rays are blocked by glass because of their short wavelength, ultraviolet A rays have a longer wavelength and impose the primary risk of light that radiates from the outdoors in. This inspires a balance conversation around holistic wellness. Blue light is within the ultraviolet radiation spectrum, which is essential for supporting mood and mental health. It is responsible for helping regulate the body’s natural circadian rhythms, not to mention direct sunlight is necessary to promote vitamin D synthesis.

It is a catch-22 – morning daylight radiance is recommended, but it comes with a price. Ultraviolet blue light radiation activates and regulates the healthy production of cortisol. Cortisol controls energy levels and supports alertness during the daytime. On the same accord, ultraviolet radiation poses the risk of premature skin aging, cancer, and even damage to the eyes.

ELECTRONIC DEVICES

Most people in modern-day society use electronic devices daily, and the blue light emitted from those devices has adverse effects. Moreover, constantly sitting in front of a computer, television, tablet, or phone screen causes confusion in the body as its internal clock is not clear of the time of day. The day and night sensory imbalance disrupts the body’s natural signals to activate melatonin production and suppress cortisol at nighttime and vice versa. Nighttime melatonin deficiency and increased cortisol on a consistent basis come with the collateral cost of poor rest, sleep, and enhanced stress. This contributes to premature skin and body aging and even illness cumulating on the already adverse effect of direct ultraviolet exposure that compromises cellular integrity.

References

1. Tang, Z, Tong, X, Huang, J, Liu, L, Wang, D, Yang, S. Research progress of keratinocyte-programmed cell death in UV-induced Skin photodamage. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed. 2021; 37: 442– 448.
2. Guy GP Jr, Watson M, Seidenberg AB, Hartman AM, Holman DM, Perna F. Trends in indoor tanning and its association with sunburn among US adults. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2017;76(6):1191-1193. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2017.01.022.
3. Shipp LR, Warner CA, Rueggeberg FA, Davis LS. Further Investigation Into the Risk of Skin Cancer Associated With the Use of UV Nail Lamps. JAMA Dermatol. 2014;150(7):775–776.
4. Mironava, T., Hadjiargyrou, M., Simon, M. and Rafailovich, M.H. (2012), The Effects of UV Emission from Compact Fluorescent Light Exposure on Human Dermal Fibroblasts and Keratinocytes In Vitro. Photochemistry and Photobiology, 88: 1497-1506.
5. An S, Kim K, Moon S, et al. Indoor Tanning and the Risk of Overall and Early-Onset Melanoma and Non-Melanoma Skin Cancer: Systematic Review and Meta-Analysis. Cancers (Basel). 2021;13(23):5940. Published 2021 Nov 25. doi:10.3390/cancers13235940
6. Achachi, A., Vocanson, M., Bastien, P., Péguet-Navarro, J., Grande, S., Goujon, C., Breton, L., Castiel-Higounenc, I., Nicolas, J. F., & Gueniche, A. (2015). UV Radiation Induces the Epidermal Recruitment of Dendritic Cells that Compensate for the Depletion of Langerhans Cells in Human Skin. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 135(8), 2058-2067.
7. Timares L, Katiyar SK, Elmets CA. DNA damage, apoptosis and langerhans cells--Activators of UV-induced immune tolerance. Photochem Photobiol. 2008 Mar-Apr;84(2):422-36.
8. Seité S, Zucchi H, Moyal D, Tison S, Compan D, Christiaens F, Gueniche A, Fourtanier A. Alterations in human epidermal Langerhans cells by ultraviolet radiation: quantitative and morphological study. Br J Dermatol. 2003 Feb;148(2):291-9.

Victoria Tabak is the CEO of NATPURE Clinical Skin Care. She is a two-time international award-winning licensed aesthetician, oncology-trained, a published skin and wellness expert, and a nationally recognized skin care educator. She has more than 20 years of experience in the beauty industry along with a master’s degree in business and minor in chemistry. She has worked with other aestheticians, dermatologists, plastic surgeons, and cosmetologists to formulate and revolutionize a holistic approach to beauty that people love, alongside her father, a distinguished scientist.

The importance of protecting skin from the sun to avoid its harmful effects is one of the most commonly shared skin care sentiments. Still, many clients admit that they do not consistently apply sunscreen daily, and even if they do, most do not reapply throughout the day, which is just as critical. Whether skin becomes sunburned or not, unprotected sun exposure can truly cause long-term, severe damage to skin and overall health. It is critical to begin exercising safe sun care practices at an early age, but it is never too late to incorporate sun protection into one’s daily routine. Knowing how sun damage occurs, how it presents itself in skin, and how to effectively practice sun care is vital.  

UNDERSTANDING SUN DAMAGE  

Many people, including experts, have trouble differentiating between the biological signs of aging in skin and the signs singularly induced and accelerated by sun exposure. Though the end results of either factor may appear the same, biological aging is determined by age and genetics, and it can be accelerated or slowed through various dietary and lifestyle habits. Sun damage is differentiated by being caused by exposure to ultraviolet light sources solely, which leads to accelerated aging in skin by permanently altering skin’s structure. When unprotected skin is repeatedly exposed to ultraviolet radiation from the sun, it produces melanin, which acts as a natural protection or sunscreen by absorbing the energy from ultraviolet rays and depositing it on skin in the form of dark spots and freckles.1 This type of damage occurs throughout various layers of skin beyond the surface, including the dermis, or the deepest layer of skin, and it can take years before this damage becomes visible.  

There are three types of ultraviolet rays to be aware of: ultraviolet A, B, and C. Ultraviolet A rays have the longest wavelength of ultraviolet rays, and as a result, penetrate skin on a deeper level, damaging proteins in skin like collagen and elastin. 

Ultraviolet B rays have a shorter wavelength than ultraviolet A rays, and though they do not penetrate as deeply into skin, they contain a higher amount of energy. As a result, they are the primary ray associated with sunburns and cause damage to the DNA of cells. There is a consensus amongst experts that ultraviolet B rays are responsible for causing most skin cancers. 

Ultraviolet C rays have the shortest wavelength of ultraviolet rays and contain the most energy. Historically, it has been taught that the earth’s ozone layer prevents ultraviolet C rays from reaching the earth. However, recent studies contradict this concept and show that they do penetrate the ozone. As a result, there are major implications regarding ultraviolet C rays and their impact on the health of the environment and on skin.2 Exposure to these rays may also occur through man-made sources like specific lamps and lasers, such as those used to sanitize materials of harmful microbes.  

References 

1. Yale Medicine. (2022, October 28). Photoaging (sun damage). Yale Medicine. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.yalemedicine.org/conditions/sun-damage#:~:text=It%20happens%20when%20ultraviolet%20(UV,damage%20surfaces%20and%20becomes%20visible  

1. Herndon, J. M., D. Hoisington, R., & Whiteside, M. (2018). Deadly Ultraviolet UV-C and UV-B Penetration to Earth’s Surface: Human and Environmental Health Implications. Journal of Geography, Environment and Earth Science International, 14(2), 1–11. https://doi.org/10.9734/JGEESI/2018/40245 

1. Sunburn. The Skin Cancer Foundation. (2022, January 28). Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.skincancer.org/risk-factors/sunburn/  

1. NCI Dictionary of Cancer terms. National Cancer Institute. (n.d.). Retrieved March 15, 2023, from http://www.cancer.gov/publications/dictionaries/cancer-terms/def/melanocyte  

1. Gregg, Náosha. “Inflammaging Skin: Causes, Effects, and How to Prevent IT - Glamour.” Inflammaging Skin: Causes, Effects, and How to Prevent It, 2022. https://www.glamour.com/story/inflammaging-skin.  

1. “How to Treat Sunburn.” American Academy of Dermatology. Accessed March 15, 2023. http://www.aad.org/public/everyday-care/injured-skin/burns/treat-sunburn.  

Brian Goodwin is an award-winning international educator for Éminence Organic Skin Care. As a master medical aesthetician, master herbalist, and consultant, Goodwin leverages over 10 years of spa industry experience to bring fun, engaging education to spa professionals around the world. Voted “Favorite Brand Educator” in DERMASCOPE’s 2019 Aestheticians' Choice Awards, Goodwin delivers influential trainings which continue to raise the bar for professional education and garner worldwide peer recognition. Goodwin embraces every opportunity to share his passion and guide industry professionals on their path to success. He has educated and consulted to more than 2,000 distinguished spas and has notably been invited to deliver keynotes at major industry events across North America.