In 2024, skin care professionals represent an authority, responsible for understanding all types of hair removal. Being a hair removal expert requires aligning clients with the outcomes they desire based on treatment benefits, their goals, and budget. While waxing and sugaring have been staples in the hair removal market by being the top epilation treatments of choice, laser hair removal and electrolysis treatments for semipermanent and permanent hair reduction are following close behind and may even surpass temporary hair removal services entirely.

It is important to begin at the genesis of hair removal procedures for skin care professionals, which is waxing. Hair growth begins in the anagen stage, with waxing becoming appropriate as the hair reaches the catagen stage to ensure enough growth for the wax to latch onto and be removed seamlessly from the hair follicle. Waxing hair removal treatments are generally applied in the direction of the hair growth and use either a soft or hard wax solution, due to the type of hair (terminal or vellus) as well as the part of the body being treated. Soft wax requires the use of Pellon paper or fabric to remove the wax from the body - with hard wax not requiring the use of paper at all.  

There are many types of wax on the market today, with various types having preference over others due to sensitivity, the amount of hair it can adhere to, and whether the wax may break while pulling. The goal is for the client to have as painless an experience as possible in a short amount of time – with smooth skin and zero hair left behind. Ultimately, whether the professional performs waxing or sugaring techniques to remove hair by way of epilation techniques, the hair generally frees itself from the hair follicle for the duration of three to four weeks (sometimes five to six weeks for slower hair growing clientele) and then grow back.  

LASER FOCUS 

Laser, in and of itself, is a category that ultimately comprises a multitude of modalities. Lasers can either create ablation or nonablation of skin tissue. Laser hair removal will always fall under the nonablative category of laser light technology, which does not ablate skin tissue, meaning, for example, clients are able to quickly go back to work without any serious downtime. Laser hair removal is a popular cosmetic procedure that uses highly concentrated light to remove unwanted hair from different parts of the body. The laser emits a beam of light that is absorbed by the pigment in the hair follicles, damaging them and preventing future hair growth. This safe and effective method has become an increasingly popular alternative to traditional methods like shaving, waxing, and plucking. However, not all laser hair removal treatments are the same.  

Diode Laser 

The diode laser is one of the most used lasers for hair removal. It emits a longer wavelength of light that can penetrate deeper into skin, making it ideal for treating darker skin tones and thicker hair. This laser also has a larger spot size, which means that it can cover a larger area at once, making the treatment faster and more efficient. 

Alexandrite Laser 

The alexandrite laser is known for its fast treatment time and effectiveness in removing light to olive complexion hair. It emits a shorter wavelength of light that is easily absorbed by lighter skin tones, making it a popular choice for people with fair skin. However, this laser has a smaller spot size compared to the diode laser, so it may take longer to treat larger areas of the body. 

Nd:YAG Laser 

The Nd:YAG laser is a versatile option that can be used on all skin types, including tanned or darker skin. It emits a longer wavelength of light that can penetrate deeply into skin without causing damage to the surrounding tissues. This laser is also effective in treating finer hair, making it a great option for people with lighter hair colors. 

Ruby Laser 

The ruby laser was one of the first lasers used for hair removal and is still used today. It emits a shorter wavelength of light that is best absorbed by lighter skin tones and darker hair. However, this laser has a smaller spot size and can be less effective on finer or lighter hair. Due to the ruby crystal being one of the first laser mediums, it is a historical laser medium at this present time in the industry and may not be the first choice when purchasing equipment as a provider. 

Intense Pulsed Light 

Intense pulsed light (IPL) is not technically a laser, but it works in a similar way to remove unwanted hair. It uses broad-spectrum light with multiple wavelengths to target the hair follicles, making it suitable for a wide range of skin tones and hair types. However, because intense pulsed light is not as targeted as traditional lasers, it may require more sessions for optimal results. 

Courtney Sykes is the chief administrative officer of Southeastern Esthetics Institute and is a licensed aesthetics instructor in South Carolina. Sykes is also the creator of Courtney Sykes Molecular Anti-Aging, a clinical skin care line for consumers and professionals. Her passion lies in creating real change in the aesthetics industry, assisting her students to obtain gainful employment and make a difference in the lives of their clients. Sykes specializes in a science-based approach to skin health and education. Her primary focus is chemical peels, laser treatments, eyelash extensions, micropigmentation, and cosmetic lasers. Her background in medical spa management has led her to nationally accredit the largest licensed aesthetics school in South Carolina – Southeastern Esthetics Institute.