The Long Haul: The Benefits of Noninvasive Treatments

As aestheticians, we are licensed to work with the integument, treating it according to what was learned in school and what is allowed within our scope of practice. As a practicing aesthetician with over 16 years of experience. I have heard my share of skepticism regarding product efficacy and the effectiveness of topical treatments as compared to more invasive modalities. Surprisingly, such skepticism is generally expressed by doctors who argue that methods like fillers, lasers, microneedling with radiofrequency (RF), and other nonsurgical options are the only way to prevent premature aging and reverse existing damage. Some doctors understand the unequivocal benefits of topical skin care and regular visits to the aesthetician, but it seems they are the minority in the profession. 

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Dasha Saian Marchese is the co-founder and CEO of Saian and has over 22 years of experience in the spa industry. She is a licensed aesthetician, Aesthetics International Association Ambassador, and serves on the Editorial Advisory Board of DERMASCOPE Magazine. In addition to her aesthetics schooling, Dasha has a degree in business and marketing. She gives lectures and classes internationally and regularly contributes to global trade publications. 

Virtual Sales, Real Profits: E-Commerce & Medspas 

 

Clients craving beauty solutions want instant gratification, and they can’t always get it in brick-and-mortar medical spas. Members of Generations X and Y are typically at work during business hours with little time to book spa treatments or purchase beauty products in person. Today’s clients are more often found online, many preferring to shop digital storefronts or browse social media late at night. Medical spas that want to capture their business need to be accessible from anywhere and at any time clients are ready to make a purchase. In an increasingly digital beauty industry, medical spas with e-commerce programs are leading this competition. 

 

BEAUTY ONLINE 

This year alone, online beauty-industry sales are expected to total $24.5 billion in the United Statess.1 By category, beauty and cosmetic products make up 26% of all e-commerce sales in the United States while 74% of shoppers prefer to shop online rather than in a store.2 In 2023, online transactions are expected to account for about one-quarter of health and beauty brand sales.3 

With an online presence, medical spas can sell memberships, packages, promotions, e-gift cards, and skin, hair, and weight-loss products around the clock. Whether it’s capturing a sale from an existing client or converting a new lead, it’s easier to generate revenue and maximize return on investment (ROI) for e-mail campaigns, organic social content, and Google or Meta advertisements by simply giving clients an option to purchase immediately. 

E-commerce also supports retail add-on purchases by driving clients to an online storefront after in-office procedures; popular upsells include post-treatment skin care products and hair and skin vitamins and supplements. These add-ons drive incremental revenue without creating work for in-office staff, and they prevent clients from shopping (and spending) elsewhere. 

Ideally, e-commerce programs can be linked with electronic medical records (EMRs) and customer relationship management (CRM) software to create a fully automated ecosystem that alerts clients when they are due for a refill or when their favorite skin care line has released a new product. Add in a few artificial intelligence (AI) triggers, and one e-commerce purchase can set off a multitude of drip campaigns and client check-ins that increase engagement and build long-term loyalty.  

 

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Tiphany Hall, PhD, MBA, is the chief growth officer at Aesthetic Record, a cloud-based, electronic medical records and practice management solution for high-growth aesthetics practices. Since 2019, Dr. Hall has helped the organization expand its technical capabilities with key features and third-party integrations, growing the customer base to more than 8,000 aesthetics clinics. She also serves as executive producer of Aesthetic Next Productions, a video and digital media agency for industry partners and training organizations, co-founder and director of Aesthetic Next, a multidisciplinary international educational meeting, and host of For the Record, an industry podcast. 

 

In a world filled with filtered selfies and vanity, the quest for timeless beauty remains in pursuit. Everyone has heard several of the age-old remedies passed down through generations, promising the secrets to eternal youth, but it’s time to debunk the myths of cucumber slices and DIY concoctions and embrace the power of professional skin care experts who can decode the unique needs of skin, ensuring a radiant glow in the future. 

In the pursuit of healthier, more vibrant skin, people often wonder who is the best to turn to for skin care expertise. The unique approaches to skin care require different skills and tools to aid in informed decisions on a skin care journey. Gone are the days of one-size-fits-all solutions; skin deserves customized care. Aging is an inevitable part of life, but with the right skin care routine and professional guidance, individuals can slow down the signs of aging and maintain a youthful appearance. A comprehensive age prevention plan may require multiple professionals aiding in the upkeep of beauty. By understanding the roles of skin care providers and dermatologists, elevating skin care routines to achieve age-defying results has never been more accessible. 

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Simone Hopes is a Houston, Texas native with a passion for dermatology and aesthetics. With over seven years of experience as a dermatology and plastics physician assistant, she has become a prominent figure in the field. Hopes is not just a practitioner; she is also the proud owner of Queen Aesthetics, a thriving medical spa practice. Her journey began with a mission to address skin concerns among people of color, recognizing the need for inclusivity and diversity in the medical beauty industry. She stands as a strong advocate for change, aiming to break barriers and redefine beauty standards. Hopes’ dedication to her craft and her commitment to promoting skin health and confidence make her a remarkable force in the world of aesthetics.  

According to the 2022 Medical Spa State of the Industry Report Executive Summary, there has been a significant increase in men seeking aesthetics procedures in recent years. While men are becoming more conscious of their appearance, the demand for preventive and rejuvenating treatments among male spa clients has been driven mainly by their desire to look refreshed, more youthful, and less tired. The popularity of social media, image-conscious society and culture, the Zoom boom, and the importance of personal branding have contributed to this trend as well and made it essential for men to invest in their outer appearance.

Men are becoming more comfortable with the idea of practicing self-care and perfecting personal grooming habits. They want to look and feel their best and are turning to skin care professionals for solutions to their skin concerns.

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Balancing the Biome: Antimicrobial Peptides 

Written by   Susan Wade, L.E.  

Skin is home to a unique bacterial environment of microbes. It is imperative to understand this system since the body is continually challenged by toxins, viruses, and bacterial overgrowth. Considering the growing consumer and professional interest in peptides, this article will dive into the nature and processes of antimicrobial peptides.

PEPTIDE PARTY

Peptides are essential cell messengers with various functions that support healthy cell activity. Certain peptides can help with the restoration and repair of skin remodeling following injury or during inflammation.1 A peptide is composed of two or more amino acids, the building blocks of protein, that are linked naturally during metabolism. 

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Susan Wade joined Viktoria De’Ann in 2015 as the director of education and sales after working in the health and education industry for over 30 years. She holds a master’s degree in higher education, is a licensed aesthetician, and is currently completing her license in functional medicine. Wade taught kinesiology courses for 12 years at Boise State University, along with owning and operating a sports training business and working closely with physicians, physical therapists, faculty members, and athletes. Her passion lies in learning about the complexities of physiology, nutrition, and cellular functions coupled with peptide science, and she enjoys sharing her knowledge in a simple and applicable format.

Many of us have joyful and fun-loving memories of our childhood playing in the sand at the beach, swimming the days of summer away, scoring goals on a soccer team, or jumping off the swing set in the backyard on a sunny afternoon. More likely than not, these glorious days of outdoor play and activity resulted in a sunburn or two, or ten

While most sunburns heal in a few days and are viewed as no more than painful inconveniences, having five or more sunburns doubles your risk for melanoma, the most dangerous and deadly of skin cancers. This article will review the three types of skin cancer and how the early detection of skin abnormalities can save lives. 

THE RUNDOWN

Basal Cell Carcinoma

Basal cell carcinoma is the most common type of skin cancer and by definition, the least dangerous. This type of cancer develops in the basal cells of the epidermis and its main cause is exposure to ultraviolet rays from the sun or tanning beds. 

Squamous Cell Carcinoma

Squamous cell carcinoma grows in the flat cells of the surface of the epidermis. Its main cause also comes from ultraviolet radiation from the sun or tanning beds. 

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Kathleen Nordby has a bachelor’s in journalism from CSU Chico and wrote professionally for about five years. She spent 20 years raising three beautiful girls and teaching music and theatre at elementary, junior high, and high school levels. She became a California licensed aesthetician 15 years ago and worked in high end spas as well as owning her business. In 2017, she moved to Oregon and became certified in advanced aesthetics and oncology aesthetics. She worked in a medical spa, where she loved performing laser treatments and microneedling. In 2020, she began educating in a premiere aesthetics school in Oregon and has built a small cancer survivor clientele. She is passionate about skin and truly loves the honor and privilege of teaching the future of the industry.

The Art of Cosmetic Chemistry 

In the world of aesthetics, the pursuit of beauty and wellness is an art form. Skin care professionals are the artists, sculpting and nurturing their canvas – clients’ skin. To create masterpieces, professionals must understand the science behind the products they use and make informed decisions about ingredients. Clients seek results, and professionals strive to provide them with the best solutions. 

Behind the scenes, the magic happens through cosmetic chemistry and product formulation. In order to understand products fully, it is essential to demystify ingredient lists, explore sustainable ingredient choices, and delve into product development.  

UNCONFUSING COSMETIC CHEMISTRY  

Cosmetic chemistry involves blending scientific knowledge with artistic creativity to develop formulations that enhance skin health and appearance. Professionals and spas can benefit greatly from understanding cosmetic chemistry as it allows them to select and recommend products with a deeper understanding of their ingredients and how they interact with skin. 

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Janet Schriever is a licensed aesthetician and the founder and formulator of Code of Harmony skin care. She is also the inventor of the Sculpt and Release Method, which combines manual facial sculpting with CBD skin care. Schriever began creating plant-powered skin care in 2012 because of her personal battle with rosacea. Having a complicated skin condition has also guided her aesthetics practice and is the underlying reason why she began creating clean products with CBD. Her products address sensitive skin naturally, and her aesthetics practice takes a holistic approach to prevention and aging. 

The Problem with Lasers 

Lasers remain a staple in many medical aesthetics protocols for aging and other skin conditions. However, while there are certainly positive outcomes, they rarely create long lasting changes to skin. Instead, there is often a worsening of the skin condition because of the trauma created and in far too many cases, permanent scarring occurs. 

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Today, Next Time, & At Home: Rebooking Clients 

A successful skin care professional knows the last step of a facial is not simply sunscreen; today’s client expects to leave feeling educated about their skin. The creation of a treatment plan for the client begins during the consultation. As the client discusses concerns with their skin, the provider should make note of any adjustments to the day’s facial, what treatments will be best for next time, and which products will help their client achieve the results they seek. 

TODAY 

Once the service is finished, hand the client a mirror and share the specifics of the facial performed. By explaining each step and the benefits, a skin care professional builds trust with their client. Point out something positive about the results of the facial. 

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Hair To Skin: Why Hair Care Matters Too 

Hair care and skin care have long been distinctly separate personal care categories, but there is more overlap between them than one may immediately realize. A recent case report shows that leading hair care products can leave residue on skin for hours post-shower. In this study, shampoo and conditioner left a residue on the scalp, face, and back for up to two hours after use, and leave-in styling products left a residue on skin for up to four hours.1  

THE HAIR CARE LINK 

The relationship between hair care products and skin is important because hair care products are not typically formulated with skin in mind. These products can actually contribute to skin issues, including acne, eczema, reactive skin, and a dry or flaky scalp.  

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References 

  1. Rubin, IK, Gourion-Arsiquaud S. Deposition and retention of hair care product residue over time on specific skin areas. J Drugs Dermatol 2020;19:419-423
  2. Rubin IK. Efficacy of a Non-Comedogenic Hair Care Regimen for the Reduction of Mild-to-Moderate Truncal and Facial Acne: A Single-Arm 8-Week Study. J Drugs Dermatol 202;20:690-693.
  3. 3. Warshaw EM, Schlarbaum JP, Silverberg JI et al. Contact dermatitis to personal care products is increasing (but different!) in males and females: North American Contact Dermatitis Group data, 1996-2016. J Am Acad Dermatol 2021;85:1446-1455.
  4. 4.  Pham CT, Juhasz M, Lin J et al. Allergic Contact Dermatitis of the Scalp Associated With Scalp Applied Products: A Systematic Review of Topical Allergens. Dermatitis 2022; 33:235.248.

Beyond Skin Care: The Art of Intention In The Treatment Room

In todays fast-paced and demanding world, people are increasingly seeking ways to escape the hustle and bustle of their daily lives. Skin care professionals offer a refuge where clients can relax, rejuvenate, and indulge in self-care. The key to elevating the client experience lies in building an intentional experience that caters to the holistic needs of clients, touching on each of their five senses.

INTENTIONALITY & BRAND IDENTITY

From the moment they step through the spa doors, clients should be welcomed into a space where every detail has been thoughtfully considered to provide a sense of comfort and relaxation. This includes an easy check-in process, being prepared for clients, stocked retail shelves, and refreshments, even if just a bottle of water – memories are often attached to emotional experiences. Carefully chosen color schemes, soothing music, calming scents, and comfortable treatment tables work together to create the client experience and ultimately help build the spa’s brand identity

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From Birth to Final Breath, Part II: Skin Physiology

Many functions of skin that begin to slow down around age 40 become more visible and more problematic into the 50s. Depending on an individual’s ethnicity, skin changes that appear with aging may not be as evident. The signs of aging on darker skin often does not appear as rapidly as they do on lighter skin tones. The darker skin is, the thicker it is, and it has more natural protection from ultraviolet A and ultraviolet B rays due to the melanin content. Genetics also play a large role in how quickly skin ages.

40S & 50S 

Collagen is the most abundant protein in skin and one of the most important. However, collagen production decreases by approximately 38% in one’s early 50s. This becomes more and more evident as the appearance of lines and wrinkles on skin increases and as skin’s plumpness diminishes. Women in this age group are normally experiencing menopause, which causes their level of estrogen to diminish and in turn, affects glycosaminoglycans, collagen, and elastin. Due to hormonal imbalances, the visible signs of skin aging are accelerated. Most women also experience hot flashes, which can further exacerbate any pre-existing vascular redness. In some cases, as testosterone becomes more dominant, the lipidic production may increase, causing blemishes to appear.  

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When Beauty Meets Responsibility 

In an era where environmental consciousness has become an integral part of daily life, sustainability is no longer a mere buzzword. It is a call to action. The skin care industry, driven by innovation and an unwavering pursuit of beauty, is no exception. Beyond the promises of radiant skin found in lotions, serums, and creams, this industry is undergoing a profound transformation, recognizing the paramount importance of sustainability across all its operations. The global skin care market, which reached an astounding $146.7 billion in size in 20211, is particularly influenced by personal choices when it comes to purchasing, and these choices wield significant environmental influence due to their sheer volume.

In a world increasingly conscious of environmental issues, sustainability has emerged as a central concern across various industries. However, the skin care industry stands out as an area where the impact of sustainability choices is readily visible. This article explores skin care sustainability’s importance, challenges in ingredient sourcing and packaging, and offers guidance for professionals to align with sustainability standards, including innovative packaging alternatives and product selection.

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Brittany Facio is an Arizona-based master aesthetics educator and expert storyteller. At AlumierMD, she puts her 15 years of varied experience to work as a global content development lead. She is passionate about how proper aesthetics education, sophisticated protocol implementation, and subject matter expertise can create life-changing encounters. She finds harmony in her life by enjoying leisure time with her family, exercising, and relishing the food her chef-husband makes her. She and her husband have been blessed with four amazing children. They have also rescued several fur and feather babies including their German shepherd, Hurk; cat, Luna; cockatiel, Sunny; and two backyard chickens.

Protecting the Front Line: The Acid Mantle 

Conventional skin care practices often overlook the importance of maintaining a healthy balance within the body, which is crucial for promoting healthy skin. Popular trends such as medium-depth peels, harsh foaming cleansers, and dermablading can all disrupt the body’s ability to fight off harmful pathogens and bacteria. The acid mantle, a thin film on skin’s outer layer with an average pH of 5.5, plays a vital role in maintaining this balance. Educating others on the importance of preserving the acid mantle's integrity is essential in protecting skin. 

THE ACID MANTLE BREAKDOWN

The acid mantle is a combination of sweat and sebum secretions mixed with amino acids, lactic acid, fatty acids, and more. This blend creates a mildly acidic environment that serves as skin’s primary defense against potential irritants, such as bacteria, viruses, and pollution. The acidity also restricts the growth of harmful microbes that prefer a more neutral pH. When the acid mantle is compromised, which can occur when skin’s pH rises or falls, it can lead to various skin problems such as acne, eczema, and infections.

A healthy acid mantle is essential for many vital functions. It helps skin retain moisture and nutrients, keeping it hydrated and nourished. The acidic environment helps key skin proteins maintain their optimal structure, such as ceramides that need to be structurally sound to form a protective barrier. The acidity also promotes desquamation, the shedding of dead skin cells to reveal fresh new ones, which is driven by enzymes that require a lower pH to activate properly.

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Twenty years ago, while working as an aesthetician, Justine Kahn discovered the need for individualized skin care solutions, as unique as fingerprints. This revelation ignited a passion for understanding skin’s complexities and nature's nurturing secrets. Out of this passion, Botnia was born, which has bloomed from humble beginnings in her kitchen to a thriving practice rooted in her garden. Today, Botnia stands proud, transformed from a cozy basement operation to a full-fledged lab, partnering with over 200 spas nationwide. 

April 2024

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