DERMASCOPE

Why, How and Where to Look for Skin Care Education

This article addresses questions aestheticians frequently ask as they are trying to make wise choices to further their education, develop existing skills and knowledge, expand their earning capabilities, and fulfill requirements set by their states to practice their trade.
While this information may provide some resources – view the list below – it is neither a guideline nor a comprehensive analysis on education currently available to aestheticians. I have asked several of my colleagues to share their insight and they have done so generously. I would have wished to relate the opinions of many more skin care experts and educators; however, space is of course a limited commodity in print.

Published in Continued Education

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Blush Brush Tip

by Kirsten Corcoran

Using the wrong brush to apply your client's blush can cause women to wind up with virtual racing stripes on their cheeks.

Published in Scope This

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Spafinder Survey

SpaFinder, the leading spa and salon marketing and research company, has released the findings of new surveys designed to illuminate how day and resort/hotel spas are performing in the tough economy"as well as which marketing tactics each sector is focusing on to weather the downturn in 2009.
The findings provide hard evidence that despite the ongoing recession, the industry has proven relatively resilient: a majority of day spas (51 percent) actually reported revenue gains in 2008 over 2007 " and while the resort/hotel category was more impacted (with 54 percent of resort spas reporting revenue declines in 2008), 46 percent still reported gains.
The research also provides the first window into which precise marketing strategies spas are focusing on in 2009, and the findings are clear: the industry will put a significantly increased emphasis on deals/specials and Internet marketing in the year ahead, with traditional advertising (print, TV, and direct marketing) facing significant cuts.
â€œThe spa industry's ongoing, aggressive focus on deals has been an extremely savvy move, meeting the demand of stressed consumers who need spas more than ever"but only if the price is right,"said Susie Ellis, SpaFinder's president. "And with marketing budgets under more intense scrutiny, the significantly increased focus on targeted, measurable Internet marketing, rather than traditional media, comes as no surprise."
Additionally, preliminary '09 data currently being amassed at SpaFinder Research indicates that day spas should continue to outperform resort/hotel spas across 2009 " and within the, spa category, urban hotel spas will perform best. Ellis noted, "As more consumers forego travel and seek breaks closer to home, the "daycation" has moved from a trendy buzzword to reality. Urban hotel spas will lead the resort spa category, as they're uniquely poised to attract the "day spa" consumer. Given recent research that the wider U.S. hotel industry's revenue-per-room is down 17 percent, we're finding welcome evidence that a spa component is providing much-needed revenue for hotels--particularly in larger markets."

Published in Scope This

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Migraine Relief

MIGRAINE RELIEF

by Dr. Mercola

Vitamins B6, B12, and folic acid may reduce the frequency, severity, and disability of migraines, according to new research. Daily vitamin supplements were found to produce a two-fold reduction in migraine disability.
About 12 to 15 percent of people suffer from migraines, with twice as many women as men affected. The headaches are sometimes preceded by flashes of light, blind spots, tingling in the arms or legs, or anxiety. Sufferers generally experience a pounding sensation on one side of their head and many undergo nausea, vomiting, and extreme sensitivity to light and noise. The symptoms are often severe and debilitating.
Scientists recruited 52 people diagnosed with migraines. The participants were randomly assigned to receive either vitamin supplements or a placebo for six months. The supplements were associated with a reduction in the prevalence of migraine disability from 60 percent at the start of the study to 30 percent after six months. No reduction was observed in the placebo group.
Reductions in the frequency of the headache and the severity of the pain were also observed in people in the B vitamin group, while no such changes were observed in the placebo group.

Published in Scope This

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Summer Hair Care Tips

SUMMER HAIR CARE TIPS

By Suki Duggan

Although many summer photo shoots depict long healthy hair and a glowing, sun-kissed skin, we all know that summer’s sun and humidity can wreak havoc on our beauty regime. Here are some easy tips for getting hair in shape this summer while not spending a lot of cash.
Tip 1: Lay off the hot styling tools: If you normally use hot hair tools (blow dryers, hot irons, electric curlers) every day, give your hair a break and let it air dry. You know the humidity will just undo all of your work the minute you step outside. Braid your hair on summer days, and at night, you will have seductive waves.
Tip 2: Protect your hair from damaging UV rays: The sun’s UV rays are just as damaging to our hair as they are to our skin. Not only does the sun make our hair dry and weak, it also can make color-treated hair appear brassy. Wear a UPF protective hat or invest in a hair care product with SPF.
Tip 3: Pack in the nutrients: If you break the above rules, make sure you take extra precautions to repair your hair. Give it extra conditioning and protection.

Published in Scope This

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The Skinny On Sunscreen

Not all sunscreens are created equal. With a few brand new ingredients and products on the shelves, it’s even more important to pick the right ones. You want to get the most for your skin and your dollars; Dr. Lain with Steiner Ranch Dermatology has you covered.
Understanding why you need a sunscreen and what a tan really does to your skin is the key to younger healthier skin. So what does a tan mean to your body, besides darker skin? A tan is your body’s response to an injury – sunlight causes damage to the DNA in the skin cells, which triggers the pigment producing cells to work harder. The pigment they produce, called melanin, literally provides a sun shade over the DNA of the cells, protecting them from future sun damage. So as the damage increases, the pigment production increases, and your tan gets darker.
What’s the latest on the sunscreen scene? Soon we should see sunscreens with a new rating system that goes beyond SPF, which is an indication of how well the sunscreen blocks UVB rays only. The new system will tell you how well the product blocks UVA and UVB rays, with a star rating for UVA protection added to the SPF rating for UVB protection. Dr. Ted Lain advises looking for an SPF of at least 30 and a star rating of at least 3 out of 4.

Published in Scope This

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Power Alpha Peptide Resurfacer Treatment from DermaQuest™ Skin Therapy

This treatment delivers high levels of anti-aging peptides while resurfacing the top layers of the skin with a 40 percent AHA blend of glycolic and lactic acid. Power Alpha Peptide Resurfacer is a versatile treatment and can be performed a couple of different ways: 1) by itself in a treatment series (we recommend six treatments spaced one to two weeks between treatments) 2) as an add-on to any anti-aging facial and 3) as a combination treatment when performed before microdermabrasion. The Power Alpha Peptide Resurfacer leaves the skin feeling soft, hydrated, and plumped!

*Complete a thorough consultation with client. A test patch must be performed with the Power Alpha Peptide Resurfacer 72 hours prior to treatment.

Step 1
Remove makeup if necessary. Cleanse the skin with the Glyco Creamy Cleanser. Remove the cleanser with warm water. Repeat.

Step 2
Degrease the skin by applying DermaPrime solution to a saturated 2x2 gauze pad and vigorously remove all traces of oil on the skin.

Step 3
Apply a thin layer (5g) of the Power Alpha Peptide Resurfacer to the face using a 2x2 gauze pad, beginning with the forehead, followed by the cheeks and chin (working down and around the face). Allow treatment to exfoliate the skin for up to 10 minutes (as a stand alone treatment) or up to five minutes when performed as an add-on or as part of a combination treatment. Fan the client’s skin to provide comfort. Tip: After the application of the Power Alpha Peptide

Resurfacer with the 2x2 gauze pad, you may also massage the resurfacer into the skin for added penetration until it is time to remove the treatment. If the skin gets dry during the massage portion and you have any of the Power Alpha Peptide Resurfacer left in your dish, you may add more to the skin for additional “slip.”

Step 4
Halt the activity of the Power Alpha Peptide Resurfacer by applying the Neutralizing Solution to a fully saturated 2x2 gauze pad and press into the skin.

Step 5
Soothe the skin by placing cool towels to the face until the skin feels cool to the touch.

Step 6
Complete the treatment by applying Revive Eye Firm under the eyes. Next, apply Advanced B5 Serum, Collagen Activating Complex, and Antioxidant Soothing Serum to the face, neck, and décolleté.
Protect the skin with ZinClear SPF 30.

Published in Signature Treatment

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Cell Science® Chocolate Power Skin Rescue Treatment by Glymed

Cell Science® Chocolate Power Skin Rescue TreatmentWith Resveratrol, Acai Berry and Theobroma Cacao Extract & Seed Butter

Immediately Resuscitate aging skin and erase the appearance of 10 years or more with the powerful anti-aging chocolate treatment hailed as the “NEW BOTOX™”! This incredible treatment not only works on the pleasurable receptors of the brain with its decadent intoxicating chocolate aroma, it also incorporates an intense antioxidant trio of powerful macrobiotic sciences that instantaneously tones, tightens and unveils a dramatically smoother and wrinkle-defying skin…guaranteed! A minimum of six treatments is recommended and follow-up maintenance treatments are suggested. Skin should always be managed using GlyMed Plus® Professional Only Skin Care.

Step 1
Begin with WRx™ PROFESSIONAL PEPTIDE ACTIVATOR hydrophilic cleanser using effleurage strokes to remove all makeup and dermal debris from the surface of the skin. Massage for two minutes. Remove cleanser with a warm/tepid (avoid HOT water) wet facial cloth followed with damp cotton pads to remove excess cleanser. Rinse with a misting of AGE MANAGEMENT SKIN CARE SYSTEM SKIN RECOVERY MIST.

Step 2
Apply AGE MANAGEMENT SKIN CARE SYSTEM GENTLE FACIAL WASH to eliminate water-soluble pollutants. Remove cleanser with a warm/tepid wet facial cloth followed with damp cotton pads to do away with excess cleanser. Rinse skin with SKIN RECOVERY MIST. Saturate a clean cotton pad with GLYMED PLUS® LACTIC ACTION PRE-TREATMENT LOTION and apply evenly over the skin.

Step 3
Pour two tablespoons of GLYMED PLUS® CHOCOLATE POWER SKIN RESCUE PEEL into a small dish and with gloved fingers, apply evenly over facial “wrinkle zones” first, followed with a second application over the entire face including the décolleté and back of hands. Massage CHOCOLATE PEEL into “wrinkle zones” for up to 1 minute then leave on skin for 3 - 5 minutes total, or until erythema develops in the cheek region. On SOC skin, allow to remain on skin for up to 3 minutes. To remove, neutralize with cool water and thoroughly flush all traces of CHOCOLATE PEEL from the skin.

Step 4
Apply the following liberally: Squeeze two or more tablespoons of CELL SCIENCE® CHOCOLATE POWER SKIN RESCUE MASQUE into your palm and apply to face, back of hands, lips, neck and décolleté. Leave on skin up to 10 minutes. While masque is on, exfoliate LIPS ONLY with a soft tooth brush, lift any dead skin, followed with masque removal from the face, neck, décolleté, lips and the hands last. Remove masque with wet, warm facial cloths.

Step 5
Pump WRx™ PC 10 AMINO ACID Injecta-ceutical™ COMPLEX into palm of hand and apply to all treated areas. This barrier repair serum acts as a natural surrogate to open and replenish cellular pathways critical for optimal regeneration of the SC (stratum corneum). Massage thoroughly into skin. Apply CELL SCIENCE® LIP SCIENCE to the freshly exfoliated lips. Massage into the membrane the mega-replenishment ingredients to plump, hydrate and nourish the lips.

Step 6
In the palm of your hand pump 2 - 4 drops of CELL SCIENCE® CELL PROTECTION SERUM and 1/2 tablespoon of CELL SCIENCE® ULTRA HYDRO GEL. Mix together then apply to the skin and massage until this epidermal nourishment disappears into the SC.

Step 7
Apply a liberal application of AGE MANAGEMENT SKIN CARE SYSTEM INTENSE PEPTIDE SKIN RECOVERY COMPLEX, a powerful Injecta-ceutical™ cream containing 5 powerful amino acid complexes that together carry instructions to promote renewal of Extracellular Matrix (ECM) proteins (Collagen, Elastin, Fibronectin), allowing the skin to fight against aging. Massage this “Peptide Infusion” into the skin until the cream begins to disappear.

Step 8
Follow the “Peptide Infusion” massage with an application of CELL SCIENCE® CELL RECOVERY BALM to establish a micro thin epithelial barrier to promote healthy cellular homeostasis. Always ensure skin is protected from UVR insult using AGE MANAGEMENT SKIN CARE SYSTEM PHOTO-AGE ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION GEL 30+.

Advanced Rejuvenating Concepts galvanic eye and lip treatment is a great service addition for most all skin types. If you prefer, the galvanic pen not only makes an economical tool for aestheticians, but can be a profitable retail item as well.

Published in Signature Treatment

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The Need for Speed

The concept of exfoliation is nothing new, and this most certainly is not the first article you have ever read on the topic. There are ever changing products and equipment for exfoliation. However, the one thing that doesnâ€™t change is the physiological way your skin functions. With that in mind, letâ€™s talk about what it is, why we need it, and how to determine when enough is enough!

Published in Exfoliation

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Add-ons for Your Summer Services

Summertime can be a wonderful opportunity for spa therapists and technicians to become busy with summer-inspired upgrades to treatments. By combining your awareness of your client’s needs and preferences with knowledge of the products you offer, you can easily “up sell” a treatment. You help a client decide to purchase a little extra something or “upgrade” a level before starting the treatment. It does not have to be a major change, just an adjustment to the plan.
In some areas, summers tend to be a slower season, mostly due to the migration north of those spa clients who are snowbirds.

Published in Retail/Sales

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