The cold and windy wintertime is ahead of us and that can mean dry, flaky, and irritated skin. The majority of clients who wish to hydrate their skin are not sure how and when to use a serum as opposed to a cream; the overwhelming amount of moisturizers on the market can cause much confusion. With the correct professional treatments and targeted homecare, winter skin…

10 Things About... Sun Damage

Written by Elina Fedotova
Protecting the skin from the sun should be a major concern for clients of all ages. Skin care professionals need to be aware of the effects the sun can have on skin and be able to educate clients on what they can do to prevent damage before it is too late.

Optimizing Clients’ Homecare Regimen, An Effective Four-Step Regimen

Written by Ahmed Abdullah, M.D., F.A.C.S., F.I.C.S
There has never been a more exciting time to be in a skin-related field, including dermatology, plastic surgery, and, of course, aesthetics. Advances on two fronts – science and technology – have provided us with an incredibly in-depth understanding of skin physiology. Meanwhile, research and development efforts have resulted in the introduction of skin care products and equipment that are far more precise in their…

Professional Tips for Sensitive Skin

Written by Tina Zillmann, L.E., C.L.H.R.P.
As an aesthetician with sensitive skin, it is difficult to sample and savor the different beauty products available on the market without experiencing some form of adverse reaction. Having experienced this condition throughout adulthood, it is easy to understand how sensitivity can be a stressful skin condition for many clients.
Sensitive skin is a common condition that affects a majority of people and commonly has predisposed factors such as ethnicity. Factors such as an impaired skin barrier, a weakened immune system, inflammation, and digestive health can contribute to the skin’s sensitivity. When treating sensitive skin, both internal and external factors should be considered.
Move over coconut oil, there is a new miracle oil in town! Rosehip oil is cold-pressed and comes from the rosehip seed. Rosehip is the fruit left behind after the petals fall off a rose. Inside the fruit are seeds from which the oil is extracted. Rich in vitamins and antioxidants, rosehip oil is quickly gaining its place in the hearts of skin care professionals…
In our zealousness to incorporate new modalities into client treatments, skin care professionals often ask, “Which modalities can I combine with chemical peels?” However, the questions that professionals should ask themselves instead are:

Skin Care for Adventure-centric Clients

Written by Melissa Picoli, L.E.
Sometimes even the best aestheticians get a little stuck in ruts, and can think of skin simply as either dry, oily, mature, acneic, or sensitive. Client intake forms usually ask for current routines, skin types, medications, and goals, but rarely ask about a client’s lifestyle and activities. This makes it too easy for professionals to inadvertently treat and recommend based solely on how a client’s skin…

Aging Skin: Prevent, Maintain, Reverse

Written by Dieter Kuster, Ph.D.
All too often, we use the term ‘aging skin’ to describe the visible process of getting older on the body’s largest organ. We as humans start to age from the moment we are born until we pass, so when we refer to aging skin, we are actually talking about aging itself.

Catering to the Man

Written by Suki Kramer
The quest for clear skin is no longer consigned to women’s magazines or women in general. Men have finally begun to learn that they too have skin care needs and that they can look and feel better by taking care of their skin. And it does not have to cost much or be as complicated as they once thought! Their desire for effective skin care…

Male Clientele: A Growth Opportunity

Written by Catherine Atzen, M.B.A., CIDESCO
The trend spans over a generation and solidifies. As years pass, an increasing percentage of men value the benefits of skin care products and many seek spa services. Demographics support that men’s use of products and more frequent bookings of spa visits represent significant business growth opportunities in cosmetic retail and to the professional aesthetics industry. Changing attitudes towards the importance of one’s appearance take…
A simple definition of acne is that it is a disease of the sebaceous follicle, primarily affecting the face, back, and chest. It is caused by an inflammation of the oil glands that varies in severity, depending upon how much obstruction exists within the follicle.1 The challenge of acne emerges during a period in life when the first recipients of this outbreak are normally growing…

Mastering the Treatment of Acneic Skin

Written by Ahmed Abdullah, M.D., F.A.C.S., F.I.C.S.
Acne is, by far, the most common skin condition in the United States. In fact, the American Academy of Dermatology estimates that 85 percent of people will have it at some point in their life, whether that be during the teenage years – the decade when acne is most expected – or during the 20s, 30s, 40s, or even 50s and beyond.
The number of people affected by melanoma, the most deadly skin cancer in the United States, is consistently rising. It is commonly diagnosed in people under age 30. Dr. Hui Tsou, dermatopathologist and assistant medical director of Acupath Laboratories, offers five tips that skin care professionals can share with clients to help detect melanoma while it is still treatable.

Achieving Flawless Wedding Day Skin

Written by Ann McDonnell, president and founder of EcoGenics Active Botanical Skin Care
This is it. Your client is weeks away from one of the most important moments of her life – her wedding day! She will want the day to be nothing short of perfection. She will want to present the most beautiful version of herself to her family, friends, and most importantly – her fiancé.
Today, skin care professionals are fortunate enough to have access to a near endless amount of options in the treatment room. From the amazing, cutting-edge skin care ingredients to the advanced modalities revolutionizing the industry, there have never been more options available to skin care professionals than there are today. While many of these next-generation ingredients and modalities are transforming the landscape of aesthetics for…

Healthy Summer Skin

Written by Robert Sachs, L.M.T.
In the changing of the seasons, we see how organisms in the natural world around us, be they plant or animal, respond to the challenges and gifts of sun, rain, wind, dryness, hot, cold, and so on. The new youth and vitality sprung from spring builds in intensity and power in the summer, to mature and ripen through the fall, only to recede in quiet…

Shedding Light on New Sun Protection Ideas

Written by Krista Mckowen, L.E.
The sun is a subject that forever prevails in the skin care industry. Whether you are attempting to reverse sun damage, prevent it, or sift through the many sunscreen ingredient choices, sun protection is a hot topic among aestheticians and product manufacturers. Despite all we think is known about sun care, misinformation still abounds. New research emerges, revealing potential health risks and offering better formulations…
During a recent three-country lecture tour, I happened to attend a conference where a video was being presented, showing a local skin guru performing an acne treatment on what appeared to be a teenaged boy.His face, back, and chest were infested with papules and pustules, and the therapist was very professional appearing with her standard softening of the cuticle cuirass with various cleansers, steam, and…
There are a lot of questions and much trepidation around administering chemical peels and corrective treatments on sensitive skin. Are rejuvenating treatments safe? Will the skin react negatively to a peel or enzyme formula? How much is too much? The term sensitive is often overused or misunderstood, and rejuvenating treatments, particularly peels, when properly administered, are very safe and may be one of the best…

Winter Skin Under the Sun

Written by Alison Adams-Woodford, L.E.
It all started in the 1920s when Coco Chanel fell asleep while outdoors on vacation in the French Riviera and woke up with an unintended sunburn. The style icon singlehandedly changed previous views that skin should be pale and pristine to one that viewed a tan as a fashion statement.
The sunscreen conversation has felt static for some time. We make the recommendation to wear sunscreen and re-apply often to clients as often as we ask them to hydrate. Here is the tricky part: it is not that simple. There is so much gray area, so much uncertainty and, as the people that clients visit frequently and expect well-informed dialogue from, it is the skin…
Do not let winter and the shorter exposure to sunlight lessen the importance of discussing sunscreen. Educating your clients to practice safe sun can be lifesaving. One in five Americans will develop skin cancer over the course of a lifetime. While that number is epidemic, what is more shocking is the fact that only one in five people wear sunscreen on a daily basis, even…

Natural versus synthetic Acne Solutions

Written by Tina Zillmann, L.E., C.L.H.R.P.
According to the American Academy of Dermatology, acne affects over 40 million Americans. Over $2.2 billion was spent in acne treatment alone in 2004. As skin care professionals, we know that acne is not limited to teenagers; more adult women are experiencing acne symptoms as a result of hormonal imbalances.

Menopause: Signs, Symptoms and More

Written by Michelle D’Allaird, L.E.
I think the worst part of writing this article was that I had the “slapped in the face” realization that “oh no, this is me!” Although I am not quite yet experiencing the physiological characteristics, my age is certainly applicable as is the horrific realization that yes, I am getting older!
Our skin changes in menopause just like during puberty (what fun huh?). In fact, the skin goes through normal, hormonal shifts every seven years, and clients should be ready to change up their skin care routine along with those shifts. Along with these changes, the expectation and pressure to feel and look beautiful can be overwhelming and cause the kind of stress that produces more…
Hyperpigmentation is a prevalent skin disorder that has multiple causes and can be challenging to treat. Many people suffer through years of unsuccessful attempts at eliminating the disorder and may be reluctant to professional treatment. Understanding the underlying causes and predisposed factors with hyperpigmentation will help assess each situation and help prevent the onset of the disorder in some cases. The initial consultation and health…

Teen Skin

Written by Linda Gulla
When working with teenage skin, there are various factors to consider. The biggest concern with teenagers is acne. With the approach of puberty, most teenagers become self-conscience of their appearance, and the onset of acne comes with changing hormone levels. As a skin care professional, you should approach your teenage client with sensitivity towards their concerns.
There is a great correlation between the morphology of a skin condition and what is chosen for correction in both treatments and the cosmetic chemistry found in product lines. At times, there may be a great deal of emphasis placed on a brand or isolated ingredients without realizing that a manifested skin condition requires research and contemplation going beyond what is visually apparent. Products are…
Aestheticians are in the unique position to observe many skin disorders and some diseases. Even though it is out of the aesthetician’s scope of practice to treat skin diseases, having knowledge is power, and skin care professionals should be able to recognize disorders and diseases that require medical referral to a physician or dermatologist. Many chronic conditions require treatment from both a physician and aesthetician;…

Protecting Winter Skin

Written by Michael Q. Pugliese, L.E.
Heat flows from warm to cold objects. As environmental temperature drops, heat is lost from the body. We respond in two ways to a drop in temperature; the first is peripheral vasoconstriction, and the second is an increase in metabolism in an effort to generate more heat. Almost all of the skin’s problems associated with the cold can be derived from these two facts. Cold…

The Truth About Acne Cosmetica

Written by Jennifer Linder, M.D.
Acne cosmetica is a term that was first coined in 1972 by dermatologists Albert M. Kligman and Otto H. Mills to represent the post-adolescent acne they believed was caused by cosmetic use. This is a complicated topic as its discussion involves the debunking of the common term “comedogenic,” the discussion of raw materials versus finished cosmetic products, as well as the fact that acne cosmetica…

Inside Acne

Written by Rhonda Allison
Acne is one of the most common skin challenges in the United States, and it is not just limited to teenagers. In fact it impacts all ages, races and genders. Nearly 60 million Americans have active acne and 20 million are at risk of developing scar tissue as a result.

Teenage Pore Wars

Written by Lydia Sarfati, L.E.
As skin care professionals, one of the most rewarding jobs we do is help our teenage clients win the epic battles they fight against their pores. And we can rescue them as long as we are fully equipped with the proper tools and know-how. This article will discuss the essentials needed to make sure you and your clients overcome the pore wars.

Helping Teenagers Attain Healthy, Happy Skin

Written by Dieter Kuster, M.D.
The teenage years can be a stressful time, full of pressure from peers, parents, school, and the opposite sex. At times, teenagers may feel like the walls are closing in, and juggling all that life throws at them may be a daunting task. There is so much to think about that their skin care can easily take a back seat to everything else that seems…

Holistically Caring for Teenage Skin

Written by Rachael Pontillo
The world is a teenager’s oyster. The teenage years are jam-packed with fun, friendship, sports, freedom, change, growth, and promise. Well, unless said teenager has skin conditions like acne, eczema or psoriasis that are causes emotional pain or embarrassment.Skin conditions do not just affect a teenager’s appearance.

Two Theories of Aging

Written by Sonia Boghosian
Sometimes the most obvious things in life go unnoticed. We see many wrinkles every day, but ask someone to define a wrinkle, and usually the answer is “Well, everyone knows what a wrinkle is.” We need to look at the microscopic anatomy of the skin to study the basis of the wrinkle which is often like the hole in a doughnut; it only exists by…

Naturally Anti-Aging

Written by Elina Fedotova, L.E
As skin care professionals, we are familiar with the signs of aging skin: loss of elasticity, discolorations, fine lines, and wrinkles. And we know these signs are directly related to oxidative and emotional stress, as well as inflammation and glycation. To combat these instigators, formulators are continuously looking for more effective ingredients for their anti-aging formulations. Botanical ingredients play an important role in corrective skin…

The Nature of Mitochondria

Written by Michael Q. Pugliese, L.E.
Aging remains a mystery to science. Indeed, many scientists do not believe that aging is natural or an inevitable consequence of living. Many repair systems exist in the body to correct molecular defects. For many years, it was thought that mitochondria did not have a repair system, but is now known that it has the same repair system as nuclear deoxyribonucleic acid (DNA) molecules.

Cellular Aging: From Youth to Maturity

Written by Alexandra J. Zani
How many times have you waited in line at the grocery store and chatted with the stranger near you? When observing someone for the first time or even when meeting a friend after many years, we cannot help but notice their face and overall appearance. Subconsciously, we also may guess his or her age based on our observations. Chronological age and actual appearance can be…
When it comes to skin care, not all men are created equal. Globally, men spend about $28 billion to take care of all their grooming needs, whereas, women spend $91 billion worldwide for skin care. One of the main reasons for the great divide is a lack of education and understanding about the many benefits of adopting a healthy skin care regimen. The good news…
Over and over we read it: men are still the untouched client wealth for day spa operators. According to various news reports and industry surveys, men represent anywhere from five to 30 percent of the day spa market. While these statistics are often unclear about the exact types of services and products to which men are primarily attracted, it is clear that there is business…

Homme Improvement

Written by Enrique Ramirez, L.E., L.M.T.
Move over baby boomers! There is a new BOOM in town and it has nothing to do with combat boots or camouflage visages, and it is more virile than John Wayne desert galloping in the Old West! I am talking about today’s modern man who has made a handsome boom in the last 10 years. When savvy marketing companies unveiled the word metrosexual,  our grade…

Options for Sun Damaged Skin

Written by Fredric S. Brandt, M.D.
I would rather not have to write about solutions for sun damaged skin. Ideally, the topic would be obsolete; every client would prioritize sun protection as much as they do brushing their teeth and using deodorant. But they do not. Or they do, but they did not always, and now they are paying the price for their youthful sun sins. As a dermatologist based in…
One must develop a thorough understanding of melasma to achieve successful treatment outcomes. It is one of the most frustrating conditions for skin care professionals to treat and even more confusing and discouraging to the client.
As the days start to get longer, you may notice that your client’s skin is in need of a spring tune up. Winter can wreak havoc on our skin. Dehydration and dead skin buildup can leave skin looking dull and lackluster. After being cooped up indoors for the majority of the winter months, it is time to ready your client’s skin to come out of…
Did you ever get a scrape when you were young and have someone say, “Oh it is just skin”? Just skin. As a skin care professional, you know better, but many people continue to devalue the skin as simply an outer covering that keeps the good things in and the bad things out. Indeed, the skin makes for an outstanding barrier, but that understanding is…

The Effects of Hormones on the Skin

Written by Linda Gulla, L.E.
Having an understanding of how hormones affect the skin can help licensed practitioners assess the causes of some skin conditions and should be included in dialog during the initial consultation. Discussing the effects of hormones during the consultation will help give the client a clearer picture to some causes of their skin concerns.

Hormones in Ethnic Skin

Written by Michael Q. Pugliese, L.E. and Peter T. Pugliese, M.D.
A number of hormones are known to affect the human skin. Hair follicles and sebaceous glands are affected by androgenic hormones secreted by the gonads and adrenal glands.1,2 These hormones play a significant part in the development and the physiological function of human skin tissues. The skin both receives signals from many transmitters and sends signals to many receptor organs and organelles in the body.

Hormonally Driven Pigmentation in Ethnic Skin

Written by Jennifer Linder, M.D.
Hormones are critical chemical messengers that regulate the majority of all necessary functions within the human body. In individuals of all ethnicities, hormone fluctuations can be the cause of some unpleasant and frustrating skin challenges, including hyperpigmentation. This is especially true for individuals of mixed heritage or ethnicities who naturally have a more reactive pigmentation response. By understanding the best ways to identify patients who…

10 Things About... Teenage Acne

Written by Annet King
Skin care professionals often have the opportunity to ease the physical discomfort and the emotional trauma of dealing with teenage acne. By incorporating teenage services in the spa, you can also to help a young person develop healthy skin habits for life.

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