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Tuesday, 31 August 2010 12:02

Turn Over a New Leaf with New Makeup

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Summer makeup has always been about minimal looks, bronzed glowing skin and keeping it easy. When fall rolls around, the looks start to get more ornate and dramatic, which can be intimidating to many women. I know from my days of working retail that many of my customers were creatures of habit and liked wearing the same lipstick, blush or eyeshadow. When their favorite shade was discontinued, they would look high and low for the same color. I used to explain that this was a sign to try something new.

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One thing that makes makeup changes easier is a great complexion. No matter the season; clean, beautiful skin is a “must.” Dewy skin has been a popular look for a few years, and this summer and fall are no exceptions. To keep that fresh look, encourage your client to change her foundation formula. For example, if she was using a tinted moisturizer in the summer, help her transition into fall by recommending a liquid foundation. Liquid foundations provide sheer to medium glowing coverage, while feeling lightweight.


Concealing is the same throughout the seasons, and should be used only where needed on the eye and face areas. Concealer should be applied in the inner corners of the eyes, along the lower lash lines, and on the lids if needed. This will eliminate all the discoloration on and around the eye. If dark circles have more purple in them, reach for a yellow-based concealer to help neutralize and conceal darkness.

Makeup concealer

Make Up concealer

eye makeupEyes

Summer eye makeup tends to be softer, almost nude-like, with texture from satins and shimmers. For fall; eyes are usually dark, smoky, and sultry, but they are also seen in bare neutrals for a bit of contrast. The average makeup wearer can ease into the fall trend by trying a couple of new shades and adding them to her normal routine. This year’s styles include smoky eyes in gray and black, and jewel tones, which are returning again from last year. Experimenting with just one of these choices is a simple way to update a look from season to season.
For those who are novices at eye makeup application, the key is mixing textures like matte with shimmer. Here is an easy trick: apply a satiny or shimmery shade (try gold, bronze, or silver) all over the lid. Next, define the crease with a dark, matte color using a crease brush. Nude looks are fashionable this fall as well so you can still use that soft shimmer from summer all over the lid with a bit of soft eye liner along the upper and lower lash lines.
For those wanting to up the ante, go all out with a black eyeshadow. Use a shadow brush to pick up the color and lightly tap off the excess to prevent fallout. Gently press the shadow all over the lid, up to the crease, until you get the desired depth. Next, use a crease brush to smudge the shadow all over the lower lash line, bringing it up to the lid. Blend the edges with the crease brush again for an airbrushed effect. To make the black shadow pop, add a light layer on top with a shimmery summer shadow. Then use a matte-gray in the crease and finish with a pale, pearlescent shade under the brow. Apply black eye liner to the lower lash line and in the lower inner lid. 

Eye Makeup

Regardless of the season, lush, full lashes are always gorgeous. I recommend a lash primer to condition and strengthen lashes before applying mascara. For a clump-free look, move the mascara brush in a zigzag motion into lashes, working your way up, starting from the inner lashes to the outer. This will help separate lashes and prevent them from clumping together.

eye makeupBronzers and Cheeks

Just because it is fall does not mean your client has to give up her summer tan. Glowing, bronzed skin is appropriate all year long, making fall a great time for using bronzers .
Use bronzing powder just like you would in the summertime, but with a lighter touch for a subtle, sun-kissed effect. Start by applying it to the higher points of the face such as the upper cheekbones, forehead area and bridge of nose. If she is wearing her hair pulled back, dust bronzer on the tops of the ears; these are the areas where the sun would naturally give color. Next, you can apply blush. I find for summer that a blush with a slight shimmer is ideal, while a matte cheek color works best with fall’s strong eyes. Apply blush to the apples of the cheeks in circular motions, working back towards the hairline. Highlighting the tops of the cheeks is also a fun idea to try year-round as well.skin bronzer


Lips tend to be softly colored for summer with lots of glossy, sheer, shimmery shades. Delicate looking lips also carry over to fall when darker shades are worn on the eyes. In general, it is flattering to pair lighter lips with dark eyeshadows. For those who prefer a bolder pout, recommend a darker gloss or suggest she apply a lip pencil or lipstick underneath the gloss for extra intensity. Reds and brick tones look fresh for summer when worn sheerly like a gloss, while fall calls for creamy lipstick.

Lip Makeup


Brows should be kept beautifully shaped and sculpted no matter what the season. Avoid over-tweezing or using overly dark brow powder – both create a harsh look. Fuller brows give a more youthful look, while thin brows can be aging. Be sure to choose the appropriate brow color to match your hair. Black brow powder is too dark, even for those with black hair. Instead, use a dark brown to soften the brow. Use a brow powder rather than a brow cream. Powders look more natural and will not appear greasy at the end of the day like most brow creams do. Shiny brows never look good!


Experiment, explore, and enjoy new colors each season!

Philip Luque, Director of Artistry & Education for Youngblood Mineral Cosmetics, has been bringing out the beauty in people for 15 years. His diverse background — including work with top designers Carolina Herrera, Armani, GUESS?, Proenza Schouler, Chris Benz, Diesel and others — has allowed him to travel all over the world. His artistry has appeared in the pages of Italian Vogue and W, at the Emmy and ESPY award shows, and on the faces of Danica Patrick, Peyton Manning, Paris Hilton and others. A licensed cosmetologist, Philip displays his skills and creates his beautiful effects using Youngblood Mineral Cosmetics. He enthusiastically demonstrates Youngblood’s versatility and quality at every educational session.

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