It is finally May! Here comes the sun. Whether readers are destined for a hot girl summer or summertime sadness, one thing is for certain: they will certainly be wearing sunscreen (and maybe even showing more skin). And now that the rest of the world is catching up on the importance of sun protection, so should the majority of clients. Welcome to the sun care-body issue. We have been waiting for you. 

Regrettably, sun damage does happen, and it should not be taken lightly. This is more prevalent in the warmer months when body care become much more apparent, hence the dual theme. Too much sunlight puts skin at risk in a number of ways: burns, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, cancer, and so on. It will forever baffle me how the tradeoff to go sans sunscreen is worth it to some people. Nevertheless, almost everyone is guilty of getting too much sun at least once or twice – more so if they are in the habit of reaping the benefits of their routine body care. 

Explore this issue with curiosity. Sun care may be old news and body care underappreciated, but there is much to gain. So, keep walking on sunshine and avoid a cruel summer. 

Adrienne Shostak

An award-winning licensed master aesthetician, Shostak is the owner of Bespoke Aesthetics and Wellness in Washington, DC. 

What is your educational background, and how do you continue your education in the industry?

I actually studied theatre in college. Then around the age of 30, I decided to make the switch to aesthetics. I was living in London at the time, so I did my basic training at the London School of Beauty & Makeup. I opened my business straight after school and learned modalities from the companies I worked with. I started with intense-pulsed light, microneedling, and peels. Since then, I have continually worked on finding new product lines and modalities as I am always looking to better help clients. In the past 13 years of working in the industry, I have never not been in the process of learning a new tool. Learning is my passion.

How long have you been practicing, and why did you choose this field?

I have been practicing for 13 years. I shudder to think of my early work, but you get better by trying new things. When looking for a new career in my 30s, I made a list of things I wanted in my work life versus what I did not. I wanted flexibility, an ever-evolving craft to learn, a relaxing environment, and something science based. I did not want to punch a clock, or do anything that was not tangible in its results. As I had my own skin issues for most of my life, aesthetics became a winning choice. I love empowering people to use nature to help themselves grow and heal.

Why is DMK your ultimate go-to, and how has it helped you become one of the best professionals in the industry?

They have helped us become so successful because their products are universally beneficial for all skin tones, types, conditions, and provide instant and lasting results. 

Why did you choose the brand, and how did you find out about them?

I found DMK by browsing social media and seeing the results of the many Skin Games’ contestants who used it. I am all about the before-and-after capability, philosophy, and mechanism of product lines. DMK’s concept just made sense to me. Using the body’s own capabilities to heal itself through reverse osmosis resonated with me and my own experiences with healing my own acne. But, at the end of the day, what really sold me was their enzyme therapy. After experiencing it for myself, there was no looking back; I was hooked.

How do you stay educated with this brand?

It is easy to stay educated with DMK as they invest so greatly in their representatives and provide consistent training. My representative regularly visits to help me train new staff and teach me more about the brand. DMK also has an incredible online library of videos to learn from. 

What benefits do your clients see from using the products of the brand?

One of the most satisfying aspects of the brand is how quickly clients see results – truly healthy skin from the inside out. With raised water levels and balanced oil production, clients achieve healthy glowing skin every time thanks to highly customizable routines that maximize potential.

How do you promote yourself and the brand?

We promote through social media and weekly newsletters and blogs. We are also regularly featured in the local culture and lifestyle magazine, DC Modern Luxury. This year I aim to expand our reach to teaching courses virtually for both clients and aestheticians.

Besides working with the brand, what else has helped you become one of the best?

Bespoke has grown the way it has due to a dedicated spiritual practice on my end. The business is an extension of me, like a child. It is vital that I protect and nurture my own energy and continue to grow as a person and leader. My spiritual practice is through yoga, meditation, and being part of like-minded community dedicated to helping other people. It is hard to balance all of it with motherhood, but the better care I take of myself, the better I can serve those around me through my work.

How do you give back to the industry or community?

We regularly donate our services to charity auction events. Also, Bespoke Aesthetics is a femininely empowered workplace. We give back in providing refuge for other women – a place where they can take care of themselves and be cared for by us. Similarly, I hope to provide a place for my aestheticians to grow and show them a clear example of what initiative, balance, and leadership can look like as a woman and mother.

Adrienne’s Must-Have Products 

DMK Skin Revision BETA GEL

MELANOTECH DROPS

skinbetter science Intensive AlphaRet Overnight Cream

Osmosis Beauty StemFactor: Growth Factor Serum

@bespokeaestheticsdc

(833) 642-2542

adrienneshostak.com

This month’s issue focuses on the foundation of our industry and the core of our success – skin Health and wellness. Even with the continual influx of new products, ingredients, and technology falling into our skilled hands, the main objective of our job has never changed – to allow skin to be the healthiest that it can be. The healthier skin is, the easier it is to improve specific skin concerns and conditions.

As readers soak up all the content from this month, be sure to note where it plays a role in the health of skin. What are the basics needs of every skin type? What needs to be done to obtain that base line? How can it be built upon? These are easy questions that often get overlooked when looking at the big picture. 

Go back to the basics and to what it is you know about skin and how it functions. Every skin type requires hydration (water), a balanced microbiome, antioxidant protection, and ultraviolet ray protection. From this baseline, it is easy to focus on skin concerns, including promoting cellular turnover, inhibiting pigment production, minimizing (or maximizing) oil production, and stimulating protein synthesis for firmness and elasticity.

The basics never change. The core requirements of skin have never changed. The core requirements of professionals’ role have also never changed. Know the basics, perform a thorough consultation every single time, and, lastly, know the products. This month’s issue will be a fantastic tool to put in a skin professional’s toolbox. Enjoy!

As quick as the trend cycle moves, healthy skin seems to always be in fashion. And for the past decade, the wellness industry has exploded as well, making its way inside treatment rooms all over the world. For these reasons, it has become clear that either are not going anywhere soon. 

This brings me to the theme of this issue, skin health and wellness – a timeless classic and a new age idea coming together to complete June 2023. From a guide to corneotherapy to bringing lymphatic drainage massage into the mix and how energy can be incorporated into the standard practice, learn how healthy skin and optimal wellness can be achieved for each and every client.  

In addition to the terrific lineup of education, be sure to check out the cover article this month. Brought to readers by GlyMed Plus, brush up on what to look for in a professional skin care manufacturer to build the most successful career yet. A brand staple in the industry, this article is not one to skip.  

As another June comes and goes, we hope readers savor the summer air and invest in themselves by attending the many industry events happening this month with this is of DERMASCOPE at their side. Just like skin health and wellness, education never goes out of style. 

The origins of modern new age practices are typically very old, yet they bring fresh, enigmatic energy into the realm of holistic skin care. Skin is the largest organ of the body and is often reflective of the body’s internal environment. This environment is often unbalanced by stress, emotional trauma, and physical ailments that affect overall well-being. Therefore, it is imperative for aesthetics providers to look beyond skin and into the client at hand. This is the basis of holistic skin care and the pillar of modern new age practices. The treatment-room integration of these practices generally encompasses holistic techniques, such as reiki, Traditional Chinese Medicine, gemstone therapy, sound baths, and other immersive practices. 

UNDERSTANDING ENERGIES 

When discussing new age practices within aesthetics, it is important to understand the basis of energetic well-being. Many of the practices have ancient origins throughout the world that focus on the flow of energy within the body. This flow of energy is part of a complicated, ever-moving system, not unlike the cardiovascular system in some ways. Energy flows from the top of the head, circulating around the spine, through the fingertips, and down to the feet. The energy within the body is commonly thought to travel along pathways or channels, flowing from point to point, attracted to where it is needed. Many of the energetic healing modalities focus on the theory that these energy channels can be blocked, causing poor homeostasis within the body – working to unblock this energy can lead to increased health and well-being. 

Kristen N.M. Johnson is an award-winning, published nurse educator, integrative wellness consultant, and executive director of The Eclipse Spa in Maryland. She serves on The Board of Directors for The Nursing Foundation of Maryland in addition to her consultant work. With more than a decade of experience in holistic health and integrative wellness, Johnson is passionate about the health, beauty, and wellness industry. Prior to the release of her first book, “Waterwell Integrative Wellness Guide + Planning Journal,” Johnson established the WellGuided Foundation, a program developed for the support of registered nurses through self-care to achieve greater health and well-being. 

Skin is a complex and dynamic ecosystem beginning with the microbiome and acid mantle inhabited by bacteria, archaea, fungi, and viruses. Collectively, these microbes are referred to as the skin microbiota and are essential to skin physiology and immunity. The skin microbiome is a doorway to the external environment and is a complex habitat that is greatly influenced by the biodiversity of the unique ecosystems present on skin. The microbiome varies in each area of the body. There is a symbiotic relationship with microbiota that play an integral role in the maturation and homeostatic regulation of keratinocytes and immunity with systemic implications. Skin microbial populations play a significant role in health and disease and modulate due to intrinsic and extrinsic factors.1

Skin is a protective structure between the body and the environment with built-in defense mechanisms that survey, react, respond, regulate, and detect environmental fluctuations within and outside of cells. Skin encompasses abundant adaptive mechanisms to restore itself quickly to structural and functional integrity. The health of the entire body, including skin, relies on its ability to carry out cellular immune surveillance and response to microbial intruders, conduct biological repair, monitor trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and barrier defense systems and function, maintain cell-to-cell communication and signaling, and rebuild tissue systems to maintain a continual state of homeostasis. Dermatological research and studies confirm that numerous signal functions influence important controls in the epidermis that begin with or are triggered in the stratum corneum.2 All epidermal and dermal components must remain a sustainable force for cellular regeneration, tissue building, pH, homeostasis, and overall health and appearance. 

Assaults to the stratum corneum can interfere with its natural metabolic ability and function of maintaining a strong barrier. Consistent overexposure to ultraviolet rays, environmental fluences, wounding, lifestyle habits, poor nutrition, disease, allergens, and more compromise this barrier. Overuse of cosmetic products may cause a low trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), and excessive aggressive treatments could compromise the barrier as well. The proper approach to skin conditions requires a deeper understanding and analysis to recognize subtle symptoms. How should professionals proceed with preventative or remedial interventions that support improvement and lead to a healthier skin? 

Alexandra J. Zani is an international educator, licensed instructor, speaker, author, and researcher in the professional skin care industry. She is on the Education Commission of the IAC (International Association of Applied Corneotherapy), a faculty member of DermaEducation TV for postgraduate education, and NCEA nationally certified. Her career has included business ownership and management, consulting, product development, and authoring textbooks and industry trade publications. Her academic background includes cell biology and medical technology. Zani has received numerous advanced certifications, both in the United States and abroad, in the dermal sciences, oncology aesthetics, microcurrent, LED, and non-ablative laser. Zani is the owner of AEsthani Skincare Institute, LLC in Greenville, South Carolina.

Manual lymphatic drainage was developed in the late 1800s by Dr. Andrew Taylor Still, who is now considered the father of osteopathic medicine. He initially followed in his father’s footsteps by studying and training to become a physician with a typical, frontier medical practice. However, after the loss of his first wife and four children, coupled with his grim experiences in the American Civil War, he rejected most of what he had learned about medicine and searched for new and better methods. His explorations and research led to the development of a new system of healing. He believed the key was to find and correct anatomical deviations that interfered with the free flow of blood and nerve force in the body. His theories led to the founding of The American School of Osteopathy (ASO) in Kirksville, Missouri in 1892.1  

Lila Castellanos has focused her energies into the beauty industry for the past 19 years, specializing in skin rejuvenation. As a licensed aesthetician, she has lent her expertise to several different environments, including working as a paramedical aesthetician in the medical spa field as well as in both day spa and mobile spa business models. It was through these varied experiences, along with the interactions with her loyal clientele, that she honed her passion for improving and maintaining the health and integrity of her clients’ skin. Castellanos thrives on being able to use her extensive knowledge to customize each treatment to help her clients achieve the results they are searching for. Her adaptability and versatility are equally impressive in providing antiaging facials, treating acne, and minimizing the appearance of scarring or when addressing skin conditions that arise as a result of hormonal changes.  

Skin is the largest organ of the body. Protecting it from outside pollutants and chemicals can be a challenge, but what gets eaten each day makes an even bigger difference. It should come as no surprise that diet can influence skin health in a positive way. What you eat and how you prepare your food can either make or break a complexion.  

CONTROLLING SKIN CONCERNS 

Common skin concerns such as acne, eczema, melasma and rosacea can be controlled by simply changing how and what you eat. One fact these concerns have in common is that they’re all triggered by inflammation.  

Sharon Subdhan is a licensed aesthetician and wellness advocate in New York, New York. Her passion is to transform the skin with wellness and result-driven treatment plans. She is also an acne expert, laser technician, food lover, and yogini. Subdhan is a big believer on balancing lifestyle; she implements breathing techniques into her facial treatments which allow her clients to relax their mind, body, and soul. Since graduating aesthetics’ school in 2018, her mission is to educate and help women feel confident and beautiful.

Have you ever heard the expression, “There is nothing new under the sun?” The observation is true. Now, more than ever before, gua sha has become a huge trend in the most innovative spas and treatment rooms – but gua sha principles are hardly new, dating back at least three thousand years. 

QUICK LOOK

Gua sha sculpting and lifting facials are based on Traditional Chinese Medicine principles that have been integrated into Western aesthetics techniques. Bottom line? 10 basic gua sha facial points (also used in acupuncture) are used as markers in facial massage movements along meridian pathways of the face and body. A combination of hands and jade tools in massage movements along these points will open meridian energy channels and provide a noninvasive means of sculpting facial contours.

Founder and CEO of Le Mieux Cosmetics and PurErb, Janel Luu has over 38 years of experience in the beauty industry as an educator, researcher, and formulator. She has taught over 40,000 skin care professionals and physicians on topics ranging from the latest antiaging cellular technology to centuries-old meridian gua sha techniques. Luu firmly believes that every day, you have the opportunity to learn new things, re-create your vision, and change your destiny.

You probably know that herbs and spices are used as an addition to your favorite culinary dish or cocktail for a delicious flavor boost, but did you know that they have also been used in skin care due to their beneficial medicinal properties? Herbs and spices have been a staple skin care ingredient, particularly in Hungarian skin care, for over half a century, and for good reason. Packed with healthy phytochemicals, vitamins, and antioxidants, the healing and restorative properties of many herbs and spices can treat a variety of skin concerns, including dryness, signs of aging, inflammation, and hyperpigmentation – all without unwanted side effects. Their popularity continues to grow, as many synthetic chemicals in skin care frequently cause side effects like increased sensitivity, redness, and irritation, and clients are looking for natural solutions. When it comes to searching for effective ingredients in skin care products, you need to look no further than the natural herbs and spices found in your kitchen pantry to achieve healthy and radiant skin. Here are some heroic, skin-saving herbs and spices that you’ll want to make sure are included on the ingredient list of your skin care products.

PAPRIKA

Hungarian spicy paprika (Capsicum anuum) is a staple in Hungarian face and body care products. Although the idea of using paprika topically might be new to some people, this spicy red powder has been highly regarded as a beautiful skin producer for hundreds of years.1 Paprika is beneficial for skin as it is packed with potent antioxidants, like vitamins A and C, that keep skin looking supple and plump by neutralizing free radicals that accelerate the breakdown of collagen.2 Paprika is also a great source of carotenoid beta-carotene, which can help prevent and treat common signs of aging like fine lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation.2  

When applied topically, paprika stimulates skin’s circulatory system to reveal toned and glowing skin, and this stimulation is triggered by a naturally occurring chemical called capsaicin. For those who have tried paprika-infused skin care, you’ve likely experienced the immediate invigorating and spicy sensation that typically leaves skin with a red hue for 30 to 60 minutes after application. This is completely normal as the increased circulation causes accelerated blood flow throughout skin, increasing oxygenation, detoxification, and removal of waste while decreasing inflammation to improve virtually every skin condition.2 These properties make paprika a particularly great treatment for those with acne-prone skin as the increased circulation and oxygenation in combination with paprika’s antibacterial properties can assist with clearing skin of blemish-causing bacteria.2 It’s easy to see why this should be a staple ingredient in everyone’s skin care routines. 

Brian Goodwin is an award-winning international educator for Éminence Organic Skin Care. As a master medical aesthetician, master herbalist, and consultant, Goodwin leverages over 10 years of spa industry experience to bring fun, engaging education to spa professionals around the world. Voted ‘Favorite Brand Educator’ in DERMASCOPE’s 2019 Aestheticians’ Choice Awards, Goodwin delivers influential trainings which continue to raise the bar for professional education and garner worldwide peer recognition. Goodwin embraces every opportunity to share his passion and guide industry professionals on their path to success. He has educated and consulted more than 2,000 distinguished spas and has notably been invited to deliver keynotes at major industry events across North America.