“How do I achieve the perfect eyebrow?” is one of the most common questions asked at most waxing spas. It is a great question because perfectly groomed eyebrows are important for balancing facial features, framing the eyes, and contouring the shape of the face. Waxing is a quick, lasting, and (relatively) painless way to achieve the perfect shape.
Start by analyzing the eyebrow shape and how the client would like them to look. What is the client’s style? Does the client prefer thick or thin eyebrows? Are they growing them out or are they wanting a more defined look?
To determine where to remove the hair from, align a pencil from the inner corner of the eye to the side of the nose. Any hair growth between the eyebrows from this point inward should be removed. Then place the pencil vertically so that it passes across the outer edge of the iris. The highest point of the eyebrow should be where the pencil reaches the eyebrow. Finally, place the pencil from the corner of the nose to the outer corner of the eye to determine the minimum length of the outward taper of the eyebrow.
PREPARE THE SKIN
Next, it is time to prepare the skin for waxing. Use a hospital-grade antiseptic cleanser applied to the skin before waxing. Look for cleansers formulated with jasmine and chamomile, as these ingredients help remove any surface residue and makeup. It is also recommended to use a cleanser immediately following the wax as it helps to close the hair follicles. Once the area is cleansed, apply a very thin layer of pre-waxing oil to soothe and protect the skin. Pre-waxing oil ensures the wax grips the hair and not the skin – now the skin is ready to be waxed.
Only a small amount of oil is required. It can be easier to put a few drops on the back of the hand and apply it from there. This helps to control the quantity of oil being applied, and it is easily accessible for reapplication during the service. If there is too much oil, the wax will not grab the hair effectively. If not enough oil is used, the client’s skin could be exposed.
There are several hot, hard waxes that are perfect for facial area waxing. Hard wax is a top choice for pulling super-short hairs and leaving skin silky soft. Use waxes containing extra soothing ingredients, such as aloe vera, arnica, and argan oil. It is also incredibly pliable. Note that the first wax application should always be applied in the direction of the hair growth, which reduces the possibility of catching any longer hairs. Applying it this way for the first application also allows the wax to pick up most of the hair making the subsequent applications easier. Always remove the wax against the hair growth and hold the skin firmly with one hand to prevent unnecessary and painful pulling on the skin.
Start with a small amount of wax on the tip of the applicator stick and place it carefully on the skin underneath the eyebrow closest to the eye. Then using a rolling action, carefully push the wax out along the eyebrow line.
Now that most of the hair has already been removed, it is okay to go back over the same area by applying the wax in the opposite direction of the hair growth, which will pick up those last stubborn hairs. Finally, once the skin care professional is satisfied and has created the perfect eyebrow, apply a favorite after-wax care product. A soothing product is a great choice and offers the client a light, moisturizing, and soothing lotion for aftercare use. Look for products with the ingredients like tea tree oil, which is well known for its antibacterial benefits. Finally, it is time to show the client the result.
Practice makes perfect. A great way to practice is to draw eyebrows on the back of a hand and use this palette as practice for wax application repeatedly. Having a quality wax product that the practitioner is confident in is a key factor to their success and clients’ overall satisfaction.
Lindsay Miller is the president of LYCON Wax North America. Having first discovered LYCON Wax in the United Kingdom 10 years ago, she has dedicated her time to growing the brand across North America, including introducing LYCON to Canada. Training and product quality are extremely important to Miller and she prides herself on building a strong team around her that can offer the best customer experience possible. LYCON continues to be a market leader in hair removal wax and is used in top spas and salons around the world.