In an era where environmental consciousness has become an integral part of daily life, sustainability is no longer a mere buzzword. It is a call to action. The skin care industry, driven by innovation and an unwavering pursuit of beauty, is no exception. Beyond the promises of radiant skin found in lotions, serums, and creams, this industry is undergoing a profound transformation, recognizing the paramount importance of sustainability across all its operations. The global skin care market, which reached an astounding $146.7 billion in size in 20211, is particularly influenced by personal choices when it comes to purchasing, and these choices wield significant environmental influence due to their sheer volume.

In a world increasingly conscious of environmental issues, sustainability has emerged as a central concern across various industries. However, the skin care industry stands out as an area where the impact of sustainability choices is readily visible. This article explores skin care sustainability’s importance, challenges in ingredient sourcing and packaging, and offers guidance for professionals to align with sustainability standards, including innovative packaging alternatives and product selection.

Brittany Facio is an Arizona-based master aesthetics educator and expert storyteller. At AlumierMD, she puts her 15 years of varied experience to work as a global content development lead. She is passionate about how proper aesthetics education, sophisticated protocol implementation, and subject matter expertise can create life-changing encounters. She finds harmony in her life by enjoying leisure time with her family, exercising, and relishing the food her chef-husband makes her. She and her husband have been blessed with four amazing children. They have also rescued several fur and feather babies including their German shepherd, Hurk; cat, Luna; cockatiel, Sunny; and two backyard chickens.

As the end of another transformative year approaches, the team is thrilled to bring readers another December issue full of education, faces of the industry, and holiday joy. This month’s edition is always special for two reasons – the first being the cover that greeted readers upon arrival, and the second is undoubtedly my fondness of Christmas and the holiday season. In addition to the exceptionalities of this issue, DERMASCOPE will always come bearing gifts of generic education. This time around, the theme is sustainability and chemistry, two crucial elements that define the future of aesthetics and professional skin care. 

In a world where environmental consciousness is no longer a mere option but a pressing necessity, explore how sustainability is at the core of skin care innovation. Within these pages, readers will also find valuable insights into chemistry to fuel their understanding of skin and skin care formulation. From the science behind product labels to the secrets of ingredients that have stood the test of time, this issue can work as guide to the chemistry of beauty. 

Finally, we are proud to formally introduce the winner of the 2023 cover contest, Jenny Pantoja. A gem in the Dallas scene, learn her story in the cover article of the month along with the stories of this year’s finalists. We hope you enjoy the captivating stories, expert advice, and the visual delights that fill the pages of this issue. We are grateful to readers, contributors, and industry partners for their unwavering support and dedication to the industry. 

Tis the season to be jolly… go on, finish the rest! I am an awful singer, but boy do I love Christmas carols. Here we are everyone, at the end of another year. Yes, we made it. We all survived, and if you really look closely, maybe even squint your eyes, you will see that twinkle of newness and surprise at the end of the tunnel.

I know it has been a year; good for some, not so much for others. Yet, here we all are together, and whether we like it or not, we are in complete control of pulling joy, spirit, smiles, and laughter out of the last days of the year.  

Let me share some positives for the year. Aesthetics treatments, services, and product sales were all up. Commitment to health, wellness, and personal well-being were all up. Availability of education and opportunities were all up. Take advantage of the fact that all of this is within reach and still available in the final days of the year. Yes, there is still time!

Reflect on what you have accomplished and what is yet to be done. Embrace the fact that you are in complete control of those accomplishments. As much as accountability can be a hard word to swallow, it is amazingly freeing to realize that you do not need to rely on anyone but you. Now that is a blessing.

As the year rounds out and you reflect, I send you all holiday blessings. The AIA and DERMASCOPE team are always at your side! Happy Holidays!

Dr. Anna Paré

A board-certified dermatologist with 25 years of experience, Dr. Anna Paré is a diplomat of the American Board of Dermatology and the president of Dermatology Consultants, P.C.

What is your educational background, and how do you continue your education in the industry?

I am a medical doctor and board-certified dermatologist. I continue my education through attending meetings, seminars, readings, and webinars, as well as networking with educators and industry contacts.

How long have you been practicing, and why did you choose this field?

I have been practicing for 28 years. I chose this field due to my passion for health, wellness, and radiant healthy skin.

How does skin care fit into your overall practice?

Skin care has been a cornerstone of my therapeutic recommendations. It begins and completes the journey towards the best skin for life.

Why did you choose BIOJUVE, and how did you find out about the brand?

I have enjoyed adding BIOJUVE to my therapeutic regimens because of its unique ability to utilize living microbiome technology to optimize skin health. It is a perfect complement to other cornerstones of therapy such as peptides, retinoids, and antioxidants. I learned about the brand from core specialty meetings and our local pharmaceutical representative. 

How do you stay educated with this brand?

I read the book, “Rebooting the Microbiome” written by Dr. Doris Day and Dr. Thomas M. Hitchcock. This educated me on the microbiome and how appropriate changes result in improved skin texture and hydration, a decrease in inflammation, and optimized overall skin health.

What benefits do your clients see from using the retail of BIOJUVE?

Typically, within a few weeks, their skin texture improves, redness decreases, and their complexion’s glow is restored.

How do you promote yourself and the brand?

I use social media, live educational patient seminars, educational materials at clinic sites, and education of all dispensing providers.

Besides working with BIOJUVE, what else has helped you become one of the best?

Continuing education that leads to a deeper understanding of how the rebalancing of the microbiome results in better looking skin has helped me stand out in the industry.

How do you give back to the industry or community?

I give back through lectures, promotions, and offering continuing education within the practice but also through community outreach – supporting community causes with packages of products and procedures.

Dr. Paré Must-Have Products 

BIOJUVE Living Biome Essentials Duo

BIOJUVE Biome Support Complex

BIOJUVE Hydrating Barrier Cream

BIOJUVE Microbiome-Safe Sheer Finish SPF 50

@dermatologyconsultants

dermatologyconsultants.org/physicians

(404) 351-7546

Conventional skin care practices often overlook the importance of maintaining a healthy balance within the body, which is crucial for promoting healthy skin. Popular trends such as medium-depth peels, harsh foaming cleansers, and dermablading can all disrupt the body’s ability to fight off harmful pathogens and bacteria. The acid mantle, a thin film on skin’s outer layer with an average pH of 5.5, plays a vital role in maintaining this balance. Educating others on the importance of preserving the acid mantle's integrity is essential in protecting skin. 

THE ACID MANTLE BREAKDOWN

The acid mantle is a combination of sweat and sebum secretions mixed with amino acids, lactic acid, fatty acids, and more. This blend creates a mildly acidic environment that serves as skin’s primary defense against potential irritants, such as bacteria, viruses, and pollution. The acidity also restricts the growth of harmful microbes that prefer a more neutral pH. When the acid mantle is compromised, which can occur when skin’s pH rises or falls, it can lead to various skin problems such as acne, eczema, and infections.

A healthy acid mantle is essential for many vital functions. It helps skin retain moisture and nutrients, keeping it hydrated and nourished. The acidic environment helps key skin proteins maintain their optimal structure, such as ceramides that need to be structurally sound to form a protective barrier. The acidity also promotes desquamation, the shedding of dead skin cells to reveal fresh new ones, which is driven by enzymes that require a lower pH to activate properly.

Twenty years ago, while working as an aesthetician, Justine Kahn discovered the need for individualized skin care solutions, as unique as fingerprints. This revelation ignited a passion for understanding skin’s complexities and nature's nurturing secrets. Out of this passion, Botnia was born, which has bloomed from humble beginnings in her kitchen to a thriving practice rooted in her garden. Today, Botnia stands proud, transformed from a cozy basement operation to a full-fledged lab, partnering with over 200 spas nationwide. 

Cosmetic Code: Natural Ingredients & Product Labels

Proper product labeling is paramount to both the product manufacturer and the consumer. Survey findings show that 61% of women were committed to reading product labels prior to their purchase of skin care products. Furthermore, 68% to 78% of women ages 18 to 54 want skin care made from natural ingredients, stimulating the need to read product labels.1 To meet this demand ethically, product manufacturers need to create product labels that comply to industry standards, as delineated by the FDA Cosmetics Labeling Guide.

Lydia Sarfati is an international industry leader, with over 46 years of experience as a spa owner, consultant, and aesthetician. She is the Founder/CEO of Repêchage, pioneers of seaweed-based  treatments, is the President of CIDESCO Section U.S.A, the world's major international beauty therapy association and a CIDESCO International Diplomate. She appears at industry trade shows, is the author of Success at Your Fingertips: How to Succeed in the Skin Care Business and The Repêchage® Book of Skincare Science & Protocols, and is a contributing author to textbooks such as The Milady Standard Esthetics: Fundamentals, Twelfth Edition, and Oncology Esthetics.

Spa owners have a lot of decisions to make regarding product inventory and management. Decisions regarding backbar and retail products can be overwhelming given the sheer magnitude of options available, and the thoughtful balance between ingredients, brand recognition, availability, efficacy, costs, and client demand is essential. Skin care specialists are expected to serve as knowledgeable client resources, providing expertise on a variety of products, lines, ingredients, and formulations. 

GROWING PAINS

Given the global growth in the skin care market, this is no easy feat. The global skin care market size was valued at $146.7 billion in 2021 and is projected to reach $273.3 billion by 2031, growing at a Compound Annual Growth Rate (CAGR) of 6.7% from 2022 to 2031.1 Sales of skin care products grew by 13% last year in the United States, while makeup grew by only 1% in the same period. Online beauty retailers grew 24% in that time, with skin care leading the way. American women spend nearly a quarter of a million dollars on their appearance in their lifetime, new research reveals. The women surveyed, who said they routinely spend money on their appearance, spend an average of $3,756 a year (or $313 a month), which adds up to $225,360 throughout their entire lifetime (ages 18 to 78). Male respondents spend an average of $2,928 per year (or $244 a month), totaling $175,680 or about one-fourth (22%) less than women throughout their lifetime.

Lila Castellanos has focused her energies into the beauty industry for the past 19 years, specializing in skin rejuvenation. As a licensed aesthetician, she has lent her expertise to several different environments including working as a paramedical aesthetician in the medical spa field as well as in both day spa and mobile spa business models. It was through these varied experiences, along with the interactions with her loyal clientele, that she honed her passion for improving and maintaining the health and integrity of her clients’ skin. Castellanos thrives on being able to use her extensive knowledge to customize each treatment to help her clients achieve the results they are searching for. Her adaptability and versatility are equally impressive in providing antiaging facials, treating acne, and minimizing the appearance of scarring or when addressing skin conditions that arise as a result of hormonal changes. 

Licensed skin care providers understand the importance of ongoing education and staying up to date with the latest skin care trends and techniques. However, if you’re considering expanding your practice and hiring new staff, you’ll need to take your training methods to the next level. In this comprehensive guide, explore some highly effective training strategies to ensure your current and new team members excel in providing top-notch skin care services. 

THE IMPORTANCE OF TRAINING

Before delving into the training methods, it’s essential to reiterate why investing in training for aesthetician staff is of paramount importance:

Taylor Wilson is a licensed aesthetician hailing from the Washington Metropolitan area. She is a graduate of Von Lee International School of Esthetics, founded by the legendary Carole Walderman. She was a wax trainer at a European Wax center and eventually transitioned into her own studio, JB Skin Clinic, full time where she provided waxing and skin revision treatments. Realizing she wanted to focus on education and helping other aestheticians reach their goals, she came on board to Starpil as their brand educator.

In a solopreneurship, the business owner must wear many hats, but maintaining the relationship with clientele is the most important hat the solopreneur can wear. With a full book of business (or even a growing one) and many other things to do, the solopreneur needs assistance in caring for their clients. 

CRM stands for Customer Relationship Management. It refers to a system or software that helps businesses manage their interactions and relationships with customers and potential customers. A customer relationship management system allows the solopreneurship to store and organize client data, track client interactions, and manage sales processes. It serves as a centralized hub for client information, enabling businesses to better understand their clients, personalize interactions, and improve overall client satisfaction.

Nichelle Mosley’s passion for aesthetics was born out of a desire to help others, after failing to find help for her own acne as a young adult. Licensed in 2015, she has worked in clinics, plastic surgery practices, dermatologists’ offices, and with family practitioners. She then opened her own clinic in 2017, Queen City Beauty Group + Wellness. She focuses on integrative aesthetics and holistic solutions to clients’ skin concerns. As a member of the International Association for Applied Corneotherapy, Mosley seeks whole-person solutions, while delivering results for clients. She is also the 2019 Skin Games Age Management Champion and 2018 Skin Games Acne Finalist.

Imagine a spa, carefully nurtured over the years, radiating relaxation and wellness. It has become a part of the owner’s identity, reflecting their vision and dedication. But here’s the thing – just as a skilled artist visualizes the final brushstroke before starting a masterpiece, a savvy spa owner must also envision the endgame. Crafting an exit strategy is not about waving goodbye to a dream; it’s about ensuring a legacy thrives even when the time comes to step away. Recognizing the significance of an exit strategy in an uncertain entrepreneurial journey is both a wise move and one that can completely transform the trajectory of the business. Planning a solid exit is as essential as choosing the right essential oils for a soothing massage.

PREPARING FOR THE NEXT CHAPTER 

As the seasons change, so do the circumstances of lives and businesses, regardless of whether the spa is thriving with satisfied clients, expertly trained staff, and a well-established brand. Whether due to shifting personal priorities, new opportunities, or the desire to explore different horizons, the time may come when stepping back from the beloved spa is necessary. Just stepping away is not prudent for ensuring the spa lives on while embarking on the next chapter. Carefully considered and thoughtful navigation through the waters of transition will leave behind a legacy that continues to deliver serenity and delight to cherished clients. 

Melissa Allen has lived many lives as a dance teacher, biologist, and marketing director before becoming a successful aesthetician and spa owner. All of these former positions help to color her opinions, actions, and style. Allen’s career in aesthetics has also been far-reaching; she has been an aesthetician in the back of a salon, a solo aesthetician, a spa owner with several employees, and a global brand consultant. Allen has experienced many of the paths of aesthetics and is open, honest, and willing to share her adventures. As her time in the treatment room comes to an end, she is focusing on mentoring and guiding the next generation of thinking skin care professionals and spa owners.