Welcome back to The Melanin Diaries. No one wants to walk on eggshells, especially passionate skin professionals. The bedrock of client care is effective communication, not the fear of offending them. There is a large advantage in leading a consultation with the positives of providing optimal solutions for clients and not with what could possibly go wrong. It is a level of confident empathy that can be felt.

Many skin professionals soar in their empathy levels, however, have to work a bit more on their confidence levels. It is not automatic for most. With the plethora of mishaps and miscalculated outcomes that have transpired in the treatment room for melanin-rich skin, some would argue that the concern is warranted. However, if risk alone was reason enough to not provide services, there would be no medical clinics, medical spas, or skin care studios. 

Therefore, mitigating risks, negative experiences, and mishaps for clients, rests on the levels of knowledge skin professionals possess. When it comes to caring for melanin-rich skin, there are at times invisible barriers that clients come to a skin health space with. 

C.R. Cooper is a connective, knowledgeable, and compassionate educator who has been a skin enthusiast for over 24 years. As the education manager and master educator for a renowned global institute of learning in the skin health industry, Cooper values organizational and individual industry standards, professional and personal brand integrity, but most importantly the inherent worth in every skin professional.

Bridging the Microbial World: Exploring the Microbiome, Skin Barrier, & Beyond

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Licensed skin care professionals know how important it is to understand the fundamentals of the body's integumentary system. For professionals who treat acne, it is even more important to understand two key functions within that system: the microbiome and barrier. Join licensed aestheticians Alex Hernandez and Kelsey Duque as they discuss the importance of the microbiome, how to recognize and address an impaired barrier, and how to help your clients get clear skin for good using the Face Reality Clear Skin Method. Plus, a deep dive on Face Reality’s brand-new Barrier Balance Creamy Cleanser, a powerful creamy cleanser developed specially for the needs of acne-prone skin.

MEET THE PRESENTERS- Alex Hernández & Kelsey Duque

Alex Hernández, a licensed aesthetician for over seven years, first joined Face Reality’s Clinic as an acne specialist, then became lead aesthetician, managed their Clinic, and then assumed responsibility as lead educator. She oversees professional training, and develops Face Reality’s educational materials, protocols, and classes nationally for the brand’s Acne Professional Program

Kelsey Duque, a licensed aesthetician of over eight years and a certified acne expert for five years. Trained by Laura Cooksey herself, Duque began treating acne clients in the Face Reality Acne Clinic and later played a key role in onboarding and supporting Face Reality’s Acne Expert community. As education development manager and educator, she oversees professional training, and develops Face Reality’s educational materials, protocols, and classes nationally for the brand’s Acne Professional Program

Skin by Sharon is nestled in Floral Park, New York, servicing the Queens and Long Island boroughs. The founder and owner, Sharon Subdhan, is a huge advocate for wellness and promotes living a healthy, balanced lifestyle. She focuses on a holistic approach with a touch of technology during treatments. Subdhan prides herself on educating and uplifting each client, no matter where they are in their skin journey. Her clients love that she is relatable, transparent, and always looks out for their best interest at heart. Subdhan is recognized for having a 5-star review rating on Google and a great rapport with each person she meets. Her goal is to exceed all expectations in the treatment room, have clients feel and look their best, and introduce a piece of wellness during each visit.

What pushed you to open your own spa, and at what point in your career did you open it?

I started in an untraditional way; the industry is what pushed me to become a solo aesthetician. I went on numerous interviews after getting my aesthetics license. I was not hired due to my lack of experience in the field. I wanted to perform facials to gain experience, so I decided to start offering my own services. One thing led to another, and next thing I knew, I had a full-on business.

A licensed aesthetician, Kodirova is the owner of LAZ Skincare in New York, New York. 

What is your educational background, and how do you continue your education in the industry?

I graduated from Atelier Esthetique Institute of Esthetics, and now, I am pursuing a degree in marketing management, which complements my expertise in aesthetics and assists me in managing and growing my business. I also attend conferences, workshops, and engage with professional organizations. Active participation in online forums and communities keeps me updated with valuable insights to best service my clients.

Three of the most important factors when it comes to an individual’s overall feelings of well-being are hormones, nutrition, and mindset. While there has been an influx of information about nutrition and the need to eat well to age well – along with a greater focus on a positive mindset overall – hormones are the factor that is often left out. They simply are not thought of by many in terms of the effect they have on a person’s overall quality of life. However, when it comes to achieving a true lifestyle of wellness that optimizes aging, hormones are immensely important. Thankfully, bioidentical hormone replacement therapy (BHRT) is a great treatment option to counteract a decline or imbalance in either female or male hormones.

A LESSON IN HORMONES

Hormones are chemicals that are created by the endocrine glands. As aging occurs, hormone levels naturally fluctuate, leading to all sorts of issues like brain fog, mood swings, insomnia, decreased libido, hair loss, dry skin, sugar cravings, weight gain, and much more. Suffice it to say that when the body’s hormones are unbalanced or too low, many aspects of life are negatively impacted. This can lead to a variety of problems that amalgamate to create a less-than-desirable way of life. Unfortunately, hormone treatments have been undervalued in terms of the effect they can have on a person’s health, lifestyle, and wellness by many in the medical industry. Thankfully though, bioidentical hormone replacement offers an alternative to synthetic hormones that are considered safer and more effective.

Bioidentical Hormones

Bioidentical hormones are a variety of man-made hormones that are available and offer possible hope for living an optimized life, even when nearing or undergoing menopause. In addition, when compared to other forms of hormones on the market, many believe that bioidentical hormones are the closest one can get to real hormone replacements, naturally. In fact, bioidentical hormones are chemically identical to the ones the human body makes, hence their name, which is why they are absorbed within the body so much easier.

Estrogen 

Another beneficial hormone that gets depleted near and throughout menopause is estrogen. Decreases in this hormone can cause hair loss, dry skin, weight gain, and more. Thankfully, by replacing this hormone through bioidentical hormone replacement, improvement can be made in individuals’ skin, weight, and thickness of their hair.

Thyroid

Thyroid levels tend to decrease as aging occurs, which makes it hard to lose subcutaneous or visceral fat. Metabolism is also negatively impacted due to the decrease in this metabolic hormone. In addition, while it mostly impacts metabolism, having a poorly functioning thyroid and less of this hormone than is ideal can also cause issues with skin. Therefore, this is an important hormone to have checked when a bioidentical hormone replacement treatment plan is created.

Progesterone

This hormone is synergistic with estrogen, which makes it important to overall health. This can improve not only skin’s appearance but also symptoms of anxiety, problems with sleep, and more.

Additional Hormones

When a patient is working with a physician to create their optimal combination of hormones, sometimes, other hormones and their levels are considered as well. This includes vitamin D, which is great for skin and immunity; prednisolone, which is ideal for counteracting brain fog; and melatonin to help with sleep.

BIOIDENTICAL BENEFITS 

When a patient tries prescribed bioidentical hormone replacement, they can expect their body to perk back up after losing some of its zeal due to aging or other factors. This is a safer treatment when compared to synthetic hormone treatment and was actually created as an alternative to this type of treatment. Again, it is important to note that bioidentical hormones are created to have the exact molecular structure and chemicals as the body’s natural hormones.

While every patient will vary in terms of how they respond to this treatment, in most cases, those who try this therapy will experience the following positive results, such as increased sense of well-being and decreased depression and anxiety brought on by unbalanced hormones. They may experience better mental clarity, a stronger libido due to the improvement in overall hormonal health, and hair growth that is thicker than experienced during menopause. Additionally, patients may experience an increased ability to build muscle and lose weight. No longer will they feel as if they are running uphill and getting nowhere as their body will start to respond to their hard work as it should. Healthier skin becomes more achievable, meaning it is smoother, has more collagen, and is more youthful in appearance. Patients may experience more energy. Hormones play an immensely important role in energy levels, so optimizing them helps one feel much more energetic. Lastly, they may have reduced instances of night sweats, hot flashes, bloating, and other menopause-related symptoms.

Often, it takes a concerted effort sustained over the course of several visits to formulate the correct bioidentical hormone replacement treatment for a patient. Trial and error are key to determining what levels of hormones a patient will operate at optimally and what type of treatment is the best for their lifestyle. Patients can expect to experience some positive results from bioidentical hormone treatment within as little as a few weeks, but many others will need to continue with treatment for at least three months to get the full effect of this hormone replacement therapy.

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Reference

1. Center, 1Midlife Health. (2016). Compounded non-FDA–approved menopausal hormone therapy... : Menopause. LWW. https://journals.lww.com/menopausejournal/Fulltext/2016/04000/Compounded_non_FDA_approved_menopausal_hormone.4.aspx

Dr. Sherry Kelishadi is the in-house clinical pharmacist and director of antiaging therapies at SSK Plastic Surgery. She has been a clinical pharmacist since 2011 and has over 10 years of expertise in bioidentical hormone replacement. SSK Plastic Surgery takes pride in providing a second to none customer service experience that focuses on safety.  At a premiere plastic surgery practice, having an in-house clinical pharmacist to counsel patients on their medications and optimal antiaging therapies is the exception not the rule. 

This may come as a shock, but I am not a fan of most supplements! Some people think that the average diet is deplete of nutrients and that people must be deficient in many vitamins, minerals, and other essential nutritional components, but this is not necessarily true. The following are some supplements that are not beneficial for the average person. 

Antioxidants

99% of the free radicals in the body are purposeful and health-promoting, and the body makes its own antioxidants readily. Studies in which participants took high doses of vitamin C and vitamin E showed that these vitamins harmed the body. Why? Too many antioxidants squelch the good free radicals the body uses to fight bugs and repair itself. Antioxidants are okay, but only in small doses.

Probiotics 

The microbiome is not made by what is eaten; it is created from DNA. Taking probiotics causes candida acne, eczema, H. pylori (redness under nostrils from stomach zone), and other harmful effects. Additionally, they have been clinically proven to slow gut repair.