Highlight and Contour
1. Mix three quarters of a light colored concealer and one quarter of a darker colored concealer. This mixture should be used as a highlighter. If the client has an oval face shape, professionals should highlight the middle of the forehead and chin, under the eyes, and along the eyebrow bone using a foundation-blending brush.
2. Contour along the sides of the forehead and below the cheekbones using a contour brush and a darker brown color.
For full coverage, the professional should use a BB cream layered under loose mineral foundation.
Apply the BB cream with a foundation-blending brush.
Set the foundation with using a large dome or kabuki brush.
Enhanced eyebrows have been front and center for a few months and will not be going away any time soon. Knowing how to enhance and define a client’s natural eyebrow is now an essential part of any makeup service.
1. Start by drawing an imaginary line from the edge of the nose to the inside corner of the eye up to the eyebrow. This point is where the eyebrow should begin.
2. Select an eyebrow powder that is close to the same color as the client’s natural eyebrow. With a slanted brush, draw tiny, hair-like strokes to fill-in the eyebrows where they are thin. Draw another line from the outside of the nose to the eyebrow. Be sure to also align this line with the outside of the eye. This point is where the eyebrow should end.
3. Use a clear eyebrow gel to lift and brush the eyebrows into place. At the base of the inside of the eyebrow, begin to fill in underneath and above the natural brow line. Fill in the entire eyebrow with the angle-slanted brush, following the natural direction of the hair. If necessary, soften and blend with a cotton swab so the color in the eyebrow and the filled-in areas appear to be natural.
4. Use a clear eyebrow gel to lift them into place.
It is important to take the necessary steps to ensure the colors on the eyes hold up to the longer, warmer days of spring.
1. Apply an eyelid primer with a round detail brush. Primer helps to keep the eyeshadow in place, prevents the eyelid from creasing, and adds a rich undertone to an eyeshadow, regardless of whether it is a soft or deep color.
2. Apply a transitioning color from the upper eyelash line to slightly above the crease of the eyelid using a blending brush. This color is selected so that the bold tones of the other eye shadows will blend together to create a softer, more harmonious look on the client’s eye.
3. Next, apply a bold pink eyeshadow, slightly above the crease and blend it out using a blending brush.
4. Add a peach color eyeshadow to the inner corners of the eye to make them brighter. Use the blending brush to press this shade into the center of the eyelid and up to the crease line; stop just short of the outer corner of the eye, allowing the transitioning color to peek through.
5. For added control during the eyeliner application, lift the color off a black eyeliner pencil onto an angle-shading brush; use the brush to apply the eyeliner onto the client’s upper eyelash line.
6. Apply a frost color shade under the eyebrow bone, using the soft blending brush, to define the eyebrows and to lift and shape the eye.
1. Using an eyeshadow brush, sweep the transitioning eyeshadow along the lower eyelash line and smoke up the eye.
2. With an angle-shading brush, apply the deep pink color as close to the eyelash line as possible so that the pink pops underneath the eyelashes.
3. Apply the peach tone to the inside corner of eye with a blending brush.
4. Finish the eyes using a clean black eyeliner (for smooth gliding) on the inner water line of the lower eyelashes.
Apply a pink color to the apples of the cheeks and blend up to the hairline with the contour brush.
Blend down the cheekbone to meet with the previously-applied contour color.
Use a lip liner that matches the lipstick color on the edges of the lip. If there is no exact lip liner match for the desired lipstick color, the lips can be outlined with a lip or precision brush, using lipstick, to create a perfect lip line before applying the lipstick.
Because makeup is one of the best ways to express unique personalities, do not be afraid to play with color. Urge clients to break out of their comfort zone and, perhaps, find a new go-to technique. Draw inspiration from the free-spirited bohemian of the 1970s, the bold and bright colors of the 1980s, and the grunge of the 1990s in order to find something to suit every personality and complexion this spring.
Mary Van, the founder and CEO of Demaur Cosmetics, Inc. and Mineralogie Makeup, Inc., is a nationally accredited makeup artist and mineral-makeup pioneer. Van launched her company at the forefront of the private-label makeup industry, giving hundreds of companies the ability to customize their mineral makeup line and create a brand that holds true to each and every individual mission statement. In 2003, Van branched out the company and established their own brand of mineral makeup, Mineralogie. The Mineralogie line and many of the custom lines she has developed are distributed throughout the world. With more than 27 years of experience in sales, marketing, and product development, Van has transformed the way mineral makeup is branded and sold.