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Skin and sun: everybody should know by now that this combination is not safe for maintaining the body’s health or its youthful appearance. While some of our clients have certainly gotten the message and live by the sunblock and hat, others are still worshipping the crispy carcass of Coco Chanel and the texture of her alligator handbags.
There are many endocrine glands in the body, with the main ones being the pituitary gland, thyroid, thymus, adrenal, and the pancreas. Endocrine glands, which are special groups of cells, make our hormones.1Hormones are dominant and it only requires a small amount of them to cause significant changes throughout the body. Both men and women produce hormones in the same areas with one exception, the…
Hormones are signaling chemicals released by cells within an organism that lead to a wide variety of reactions. They are transported from a cell (or gland) to tissues nearby, or carried to another part of the body through the blood stream to interact with a specific receptor. There are different types of hormones and their internal actions often lead to outward effects in the skin.…

Menopause: Identifying Climateractic Challenged

Written by Christine Heathman C.M.E., L.M.T.
Climacteric skin relates to long-term cosmetic changes that occur due to a lack of estrogen relating to biological, histological and clinical measures of consequences directly related to hormones that are linked to menopause. Climacteric skin is one of the greatest challenges faced by aestheticians; therefore, specific considerations should be undertaken as a whole health approach. This would include skin and/or body treatments, nutritional guidance, physical…
Along with aging and acne concerns, uneven pigmentation is one of the most common complaints skin care professionals hear in the treatment room. Changes in skin pigmentation can occur due to many different factors and can be the most difficult issue to tackle in the treatment room. Perhaps one of the most challenging pigmentary conditions to treat is melasma, a common disorder of hyperpigmentation that…

The Myths and Realities of Acne

Written by Danne Montague-King (DMK)
During a recent three country lecture tour, I happened to attend a conference where a video was being presented showing a local skin guru performing an acne treatment on a teenaged boy whose face, back and chest were infested with papules and pustules. The therapist was very professional, appearing with her standard softening of the cuticle cuirass with various cleansers, steam and masks. She did…
While hyperpigmentation products and devices are frequently written about and analyzed, hypopigmentation receives far less discussion. The technical definition of hypopigmentation is abnormally diminished pigmentation resulting from decreased melanin production. The collective term for loss of pigment is Leukoderma. This is a complex and varied skin disorder, characterized by a lack of skin color. The causes can be due to genetics, chemicals, hormones, injury or…

24-Hour Skin Care

Written by Sam Dhatt
Some ingredients are must-haves for the morning, while others should never see the light of day. Finding the right order for your skin care regimens will reap the maximum benefit of actives while reducing unwanted side effects.For most beauty junkies, finding the right sequence of products and knowing which ingredients are best for the morning or evening application presents a challenge. Do you apply the…

10 Things About...Skin Tone

Written by Catherine Atzen, M.B.A.
Your skin tone speaks volumes. Pigmentation changes, brown spots caused by sun damage, and the quantity of melanin one has inherited from his/her DNA is what first comes to mind when we think about skin tone; however, this is only part of the equation. While clusters of brown spots draw the eyes’ attention, the overall skin tone, clarity and transparency of the skin speaks volumes…

Treating the Signs of Aging at 30 Versus 70

Written by Jennifer Linder, M.D.
People of all ages are actively seeking solutions to help them maintain healthy, youthful skin. Today’s media delivers an overwhelming quantity of aspirational imagery of young, happy and healthy men and women. These visuals, along with the copious amount of information about anti-aging products and ingredients available to consumers, have driven down the age at which people seek out products and treatments to mitigate visible…
The 101 of AgingAging is a 24/7 biological process that results in cellular wear and tear and cell senescence, eventually lapsing into decreased viability and then eventual cell death. This unavoidable, redundant aging syndrome is also affected by a pre-programmed genetic agenda (intrinsic) superimposed on cumulative environmental (extrinsic) and endogenous insults that take place throughout the cellular organism’s lifespan. Chronological skin aging comprises unwanted changes…

10 Things About...Fungus

Written by Anna D. Rinehart
Clients present high stress regarding the possible signs of fungus growth on their bodies, which can be unsightly and embarrassing. The most common fungus presented is athlete’s foot, also referred as tinea pedis. It presents itself as redness, peeling, itching and burning. This fungus grows in warm, moist environments and is common in the summer. Athlete’s foot is mostly experienced by men and women wearing…

Acne in the Adult

Written by James E. Fulton, M.D. Ph.D. and Caroline Caperton, M.D., M.S.P.H.
It is estimated that as many as 25 percent of men and up to 50 percent of women experience acne flares in their post-adolescent years, with recent studies claiming the prevalence is growing.1 Even into the 30s and 40s, many adults are still suffering with acne, whether it be the occasional breakout, or a full-face flare-up. Two different groups of acne sufferers can be identified:…
With more men becoming active participants in the youth revolution, it is not uncommon to see facial treatments geared toward the male clientele commanding equal space on the spa services menu. But just because you build it, does not mean they will necessarily come. Different messages, services and images resonate with men than women, and the slightly different makeup of their skin will impact how…

The Modern Male

Written by Louis Silberman and Briana Cain, N.M.D.
From the gym to the grocery store, men are becoming more conscious of what they eat and how they take care of their bodies. This amplified awareness has also fueled a noticeable increase in the number of men heading to spas and physicians’ offices to further polish their appearances. The International Spa Association reports that nearly one-third of spa clients are now men. If you…
My career in specialized skin care transcends over 25 years of functioning behind the chair recognizing skin diseases and performing professional clinical skin care treatments. During this time, I have seen some of the most challenging facial conditions which would cause a majority of aestheticians to either panic or refuse. Embracing the difficulty of severe skin problems is what I love, therefore, I have built…
Skin conditions can be distressing at a visible level, however they are often triggered by responses occurring inside the body. Skin, being the largest organ of the body, can represent what is taking place from internal stress, to hormonal fluctuations, to an unhealthy lifestyle. The most common skin conditions seen by aestheticians are acne, rosacea and hyperpigmentation. Although there are actions we can take to…

Acne on the Body

Written by Chau Stone
Acne is the occurrence of an inflamed or infected sebaceous gland on the skin. Acne vulgaris, which is the medical term for acne, is the most common skin disease. Acne is present on the areas of the body in humans that contain the most sebaceous glands. The most common areas in which acne is present are the face, chest and back. Areas include, but are…

Best Methods for Acne Treatment in Teenagers

Written by Cynthia Price, M.D.
The teen years are a time of dramatic physiological changes in the human body, including puberty, growth spurts and, unfortunately, acne. Acne affects almost 85 percent of all Americans in varying degrees, at some point during their lives. This is not only a dramatic cutaneous occurrence often requiring treatment, but also typically carries with it a tremendous emotional burden for teen acne sufferers. In addition…
Forty-one percent of Americans will develop cancer. This means, with very few exceptions, every family will be touched by this disease. Chemotherapy drugs (in combination with radiation) are a crucial component to all cancer management; and with this rising cancer burden, doctors and patients alike will see an increasing incidence of chemotherapy-related skin toxicity. If significant skin reactions are not managed quickly, dose interruptions, reductions,…
By now everyone is well aware of the sun's damaging effects and you have likely had the "importance of sun protection" talk with your clients more times than they care to remember. Despite these efforts and the statistics on skin cancer that abound, many still seek the sun's rays in an effort to achieve that bronzed, glowing skin. When a client has clearly spent too…
Although some skin breakdown occurs simply due to the passage of time, the majority of visible aging is attributed to external offenders. Up to 85 percent of all skin aging is a result of unprotected ultraviolet (UV) exposure, smoking and other preventable causes. UV rays are a clear and well-documented affront to our skin's health and youthful appearance. From a simple sunburn to dramatic dermal…
Ultraviolet (UV) light from the sun is a major health hazard. Not only is it responsible for the greatest number of cancers of the skin, but it is a major cause of aging skin, as well as cataracts and related conditions. An understanding of exactly how UV light interacts with the skin's components is critical to an appreciation of just how damaging UV rays can…

UV Damage Control

Written by Sam Dhatt
Move over sunscreens! Make room for antioxidant-rich, pre- and post-sun treatments that not only protect against the sun's damaging UV assault, but (in many cases) repair and even reverse the damage. The effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation on the skin are well documented and the mainstream media has extoled the preventive benefits of sunscreens for years. But sunscreens do not block all the earth's UV…
Inflammation is often associated with infections and wounds, and while this association does have some validity, it is important to remember inflammation is not a synonym for either of those. Rather it is the response caused by infection or a wound. Inflammation is the body's response to trauma, and in fact, it is a very complex biological process. It indicates to the body to begin…

Acne and Rosacea

Written by Elaine Linker
Rosacea and acne are often perceived as skin conditions that are of the same nature; however acne and rosacea are quite dissimilar in their clinical history and should be treated differently. It is often very hard to identify these conditions due to the similarities of the symptoms. Sometimes the two conditions co-exist, which makes it even harder to make a clear diagnosis. Rosacea Rosacea has…
Women, and now more men, consult with aesthetics professionals for a variety of different reasons. Some come with specific skin issues like sun damage, rosacea or acne, while others come more for the relaxing and pampering aspect of aesthetic services. Others come to the spa and receive facial treatments and purchase professional products in an effort to not only maintain healthy skin, but also to…
The incidence of skin cancer, which is the most common type of cancer diagnosed in the U.S., is rapidly on the rise. As a practicing dermatologist, I find myself detecting these cancers in younger and younger patients who are visiting the office for reasons other than a full body skin check. Three main types of skin cancer are routinely diagnosed and can be subdivided into…
With the vast array of high-tech ingredients and the plethora of skin care brands from which to select, it is easy to be overwhelmed by all the choices. Lately skin care formulations are looking more like a supermarket or health food store. The spa market has clearly embraced formulations that are based upon food ingredients or nutraceuticals. Alongside all of these products remain the AHAs that…
We are constantly in search of the elusive "Fountain of Youth" and the answer to a common question: what causes the skin to age? While we have yet to find the one magic antidote or fix-all, today we have more insight into what ages our skin and it goes beyond skin deep. There are two primary culprits of skin aging, intrinsic and extrinsic agers. Intrinsic…

10 Things About... Diabetes

Written by Annette Tobia, Ph.D.
Diabetes is a lifelong (chronic) disease that results in high levels of sugar in the blood. Diabetes or "diabetes mellitus" refers to a group of diseases that affect how the body uses blood glucose, commonly called blood sugar. Glucose is the main source of energy for the cells that make up muscles and tissues, including brain cells, and is therefore vital to health. Insulin is…
Even as the rates of some cancers are falling, Mayo Clinic is seeing a shocking trend: the dramatic rise of skin cancer, especially among people under 40. According to a study by Mayo Clinic, the incidence of melanoma has escalated, and young women are the hardest hit. Researchers conducted a population-based study. The study found the incidence of melanoma increased eightfold amongst young women and fourfold among…

Media

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Summer brings a feeling of liberation as we shed our winter layers, but there can be a downside to this emancipation: sunburn. In spite of everything we know about UV damage and the risk of skin cancer, every spring and summer brings waves of lobster-red vacationers to the drugstore and the spa in search of soothing relief. The sunburn goes away in terms of the…
Do you know what is more difficult than getting sunscreen on that hard to reach spot in the middle of your back? It is knowing and understanding the vast array of information on professional quality sunscreens from SPF to UVA, including all of the new labeling rules and skin cancer facts. Just like applying sunscreen takes a helping hand, so does learning some sun care…
The summer months are when clients typically have the most down time, making it an ideal time for corrective, rejuvenating treatments. Summer is also peak time for many spas and salons, depending upon the locale. However, administering peels and other corrective treatments during the summer months will cause a client's skin to be even more vulnerable to sun damage. So how can skin care professionals…

Setting the Record Straight About Sun Protection

Written by Ahmed Abdullah, M.D., F.A.C.S., F.I.C.S.
Sun protection, while once relatively straightforward, has become an increasingly challenging topic in recent years. Today's consumers are confronted with an often-puzzling array of product formulations, well-publicized concerns about the prevalence of vitamin D deficiencies, and conflicting information about the safety of technologies and ingredients employed in sunscreens. You could say that protecting our skin has become a bit akin to navigating a battlefield –…

Extrinsic Aging: Avoiding the Preventable

Written by Cheryl Staurowsky
Everyone’s skin ages in its own unique way. Much of the inevitable part of facial aging is driven by a person’s DNA and is considered intrinsic. Fortunately, 85 percent of the visible signs of aging can be directly attributed to extrinsic causes that are preventable, and can often be corrected, even if the damage has already been done. Making informed decisions about sun exposure, diet,…

Male Friendly Spa

Written by Dr. Guy Lewis
Men are showing up at spas in far greater numbers than they used to. The International Spa Association in Lexington, Ky., states that 29 percent of spa goers are now men. Though the association did not start compiling the data until 2004, industry experts believe the number was probably in the range of 8 percent to 10 percent a decade ago. There has also been…
Most men are reasonably logical, simple, and benefit driven. Therefore, in a skin care product, they look for something with ease of use that feels good and produces results (benefits). Let me give you an example of an ideal product and description: category - after shave conditioner (not spoken of as moisturizer, by the way) - one that leaves the skin feeling soft and smooth,…

Male Ego: Creating a Man Spa

Written by Denise R. Fuller
We’ve all heard it before: “Men – You can’t live with them and you can’t live without them.” In the spa industry, however, building a male clientele is a smart move that will lead to an increase in clients, services, and sales of retail products. The average national growth for spas offering men’s services is between 25 and 30 percent. Men are looking for better…

Men at Work: The Industrial Man

Written by Patti Pugliese, L.E.
The notion of selling skin care to men was something that appealed to me when I started in the cosmetic business in the mid '80s. At that time, the industry marketing focus mostly came from the fragrance sector and seemed to indicate that every man wanted to be a cowboy. I'm glad we have moved on from that. Men's Skin Care, if we were to…
All men are created equal. While this may ring true in the political realm of society, it is far from true when it comes to the physiology and care of men’s skin. Men, just like women, deal with issues like aging, pigmentation, sensitivity, and acne. However, just as there are keen differences between the skin conditions of men and women, every man’s skin is as…

Men of All Ages

Written by Guy Lewis
It is no secret in the wellness community that there has been an explosion in the number of men who are seeking out and engaging in spa and wellness experiences. Men have long been active and visible participants in the external expression (whether financial or temporal) of health related engagements. Such external engagements have historically been physical exercise, body awareness, and nutrition. What is different…
So much emphasis in our industry and society is placed on rejuvenating the face. After all, it is our calling card. But what about the rest of the body? Our hands and lips are the most active parts of our bodies and along with the chest and neck areas, the most exposed to the sun and other environmental aggressors. Yet these areas of skin don't…
A new survey claims that less than half of men use sunscreen of at least factor 15 to protect their skin from damage. The poll of 2,000 people commissioned by Cancer Research UK found 90 percent said they had suffered sunburn. But only 47 percent of men used at least SPF 15. This was compared to two thirds of women using sunscreen of at least factor…
Natural sunscreen compounds produced by coral to protect from UV rays could eventually be used for making human sunscreens, researchers from King's College London revealed. The scientists, who discovered the new natural sunscreen compounds, are uncovering the biochemical and genetic processes behind their production. They believe they will eventually be able to recreate them synthetically, leading to new types of sunscreens for human usage.

Sensitive Skin

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Sensitive skin care is an important topic for the professional aesthetician. Why? Because sensitive skin is very common in today's population plus it is a condition that can be quite challenging to recognize and treat. For example, some people do not care for their skin properly or use harsh products. Usually, this results in some sort of irritation or dryness that leads individuals to think…
Teens are at a stage in their lives where trying to identify with the world around them can become confusing, especially when their role models are just as confused. They are barraged with advertisements, TV personalities and trends that focus on exterior beauty, yet lack substance for personal development. Are these trends in our youth's best interest or are they feeding an already fragile self-esteem?…
As Americans of the 21st century, we sometimes beat ourselves up for our youth-obsession. More traditional cultures, we remind ourselves, honor elders. We berate ourselves for being shallow and vain as we fret over the evidence of the passing years. But, really… even the Confucian sages of ancient China were full of praise for the “Yin” of very young women, commenting that this essential quality…
The U.S. Food and Drug Administration said it will require new labeling for sunscreens to identify products that are best for reducing the risk of skin cancer, early skin aging and helping to prevent sunburn. Under the new rule, sunscreens that protect against both ultraviolet A rays (UVA) and ultraviolet B (UVB) rays can be labeled "Broad Spectrum." UVB rays and UVA rays both can…

Acne and African Skin

Written by Christine Heathman
What is Acne? Acne/ak’ne/ is an inflammatory, papulopustular skin eruption occurring usually in or near the sebaceous glands on the face, neck, shoulders, and upper back. Its actual cause is still unknown but involves bacterial breakdown of sebum into fatty acids, wax esters, triglycerides, and squalene, irritating the pore surrounding the subcutaneous tissue. To put the full potential of this activity into perspective, one square…

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