Skin care professionals must understand the complexities of skin care product formulation in order to correctly and effectively educate clients on product chemistry and design. There is so much more to formulating a product than most people are aware of, and having a full understanding of chemical purity grades, purity standards, and classifications are part of the overall experience of understanding skin care ingredients and their efficacy.

Chemical purity grade is an important concept to consider when evaluating the quality of a chemical compound or ingredient. It is essential for establishing safe and effective use, as well as for meeting product specifications. The term “chemical purity grade” describes various levels of purity that are established by different organizations and industries in order to guarantee that products meet certain standards. 

United States Pharmacopeia (UPS) grade chemicals are fit for use in food, drugs, and medicines. They are subject to stringent testing and are typically required to have the highest level of purity. For example, isopropyl alcohol 70% USP can be safely used in pharmaceutical applications due to its high purity.1 According to the FDA, pharmaceutical-grade products are required to be 99% pure, whereas cosmetic grade products are only required to be 70% pure.2  

Top of FormBottom of Form Courtney Sykes is the chief administrative officer of Southeastern Esthetics Institute and a licensed aesthetics instructor in South Carolina. Sykes is also the creator of Courtney Sykes Molecular Anti-Aging, a clinical skin care line for consumers and professionals. Her passion lies in creating real change in the aesthetics industry, assisting her students to obtain gainful employment, and making a difference in the lives of their clients. Sykes specializes in a science-based approach to skin health and education. Her primary focus is chemical peels, laser treatments, eyelash extensions, micropigmentation, and cosmetic lasers. Her background in medical spa management has led her to nationally accredit the largest, licensed aesthetics school in South Carolina – Southeastern Esthetics Institute.  

In the world of aesthetics, the pursuit of beauty and wellness is an art form. Skin care professionals are the artists, sculpting and nurturing their canvas – clients’ skin. To create masterpieces, professionals must understand the science behind the products they use and make informed decisions about ingredients. Clients seek results, and professionals strive to provide them with the best solutions. 

Behind the scenes, the magic happens through cosmetic chemistry and product formulation. In order to understand products fully, it is essential to demystify ingredient lists, explore sustainable ingredient choices, and delve into product development.  

UNCONFUSING COSMETIC CHEMISTRY  

Cosmetic chemistry involves blending scientific knowledge with artistic creativity to develop formulations that enhance skin health and appearance. Professionals and spas can benefit greatly from understanding cosmetic chemistry as it allows them to select and recommend products with a deeper understanding of their ingredients and how they interact with skin. 

Janet Schriever is a licensed aesthetician and the founder and formulator of Code of Harmony skin care. She is also the inventor of the Sculpt and Release Method, which combines manual facial sculpting with CBD skin care. Schriever began creating plant-powered skin care in 2012 because of her personal battle with rosacea. Having a complicated skin condition has also guided her aesthetics practice and is the underlying reason why she began creating clean products with CBD. Her products address sensitive skin naturally, and her aesthetics practice takes a holistic approach to prevention and aging. 

Lasers remain a staple in many medical aesthetics protocols for aging and other skin conditions. However, while there are certainly positive outcomes, they rarely create long lasting changes to skin. Instead, there is often a worsening of the skin condition because of the trauma created and in far too many cases, permanent scarring occurs. 

A successful skin care professional knows the last step of a facial is not simply sunscreen; today’s client expects to leave feeling educated about their skin. The creation of a treatment plan for the client begins during the consultation. As the client discusses concerns with their skin, the provider should make note of any adjustments to the day’s facial, what treatments will be best for next time, and which products will help their client achieve the results they seek. 

TODAY 

Once the service is finished, hand the client a mirror and share the specifics of the facial performed. By explaining each step and the benefits, a skin care professional builds trust with their client. Point out something positive about the results of the facial. 

Hair care and skin care have long been distinctly separate personal care categories, but there is more overlap between them than one may immediately realize. A recent case report shows that leading hair care products can leave residue on skin for hours post-shower. In this study, shampoo and conditioner left a residue on the scalp, face, and back for up to two hours after use, and leave-in styling products left a residue on skin for up to four hours.1  

THE HAIR CARE LINK 

The relationship between hair care products and skin is important because hair care products are not typically formulated with skin in mind. These products can actually contribute to skin issues, including acne, eczema, reactive skin, and a dry or flaky scalp.  

References 

1. Rubin, IK, Gourion-Arsiquaud S. Deposition and retention of hair care product residue over time on specific skin areas. J Drugs Dermatol 2020;19:419-423
2. Rubin IK. Efficacy of a Non-Comedogenic Hair Care Regimen for the Reduction of Mild-to-Moderate Truncal and Facial Acne: A Single-Arm 8-Week Study. J Drugs Dermatol 202;20:690-693.
3. 3. Warshaw EM, Schlarbaum JP, Silverberg JI et al. Contact dermatitis to personal care products is increasing (but different!) in males and females: North American Contact Dermatitis Group data, 1996-2016. J Am Acad Dermatol 2021;85:1446-1455.
4. 4.  Pham CT, Juhasz M, Lin J et al. Allergic Contact Dermatitis of the Scalp Associated With Scalp Applied Products: A Systematic Review of Topical Allergens. Dermatitis 2022; 33:235.248.

In today’s fast-paced and demanding world, people are increasingly seeking ways to escape the hustle and bustle of their daily lives. Skin care professionals offer a refuge where clients can relax, rejuvenate, and indulge in self-care. The key to elevating the client experience lies in building an intentional experience that caters to the holistic needs of clients, touching on each of their five senses.

INTENTIONALITY & BRAND IDENTITY

From the moment they step through the spa doors, clients should be welcomed into a space where every detail has been thoughtfully considered to provide a sense of comfort and relaxation. This includes an easy check-in process, being prepared for clients, stocked retail shelves, and refreshments, even if just a bottle of water – memories are often attached to emotional experiences. Carefully chosen color schemes, soothing music, calming scents, and comfortable treatment tables work together to create the client experience and ultimately help build the spa’s brand identity. 

Many functions of skin that begin to slow down around age 40 become more visible and more problematic into the 50s. Depending on an individual’s ethnicity, skin changes that appear with aging may not be as evident. The signs of aging on darker skin often does not appear as rapidly as they do on lighter skin tones. The darker skin is, the thicker it is, and it has more natural protection from ultraviolet A and ultraviolet B rays due to the melanin content. Genetics also play a large role in how quickly skin ages.

40S & 50S 

Collagen is the most abundant protein in skin and one of the most important. However, collagen production decreases by approximately 38% in one’s early 50s. This becomes more and more evident as the appearance of lines and wrinkles on skin increases and as skin’s plumpness diminishes. Women in this age group are normally experiencing menopause, which causes their level of estrogen to diminish and in turn, affects glycosaminoglycans, collagen, and elastin. Due to hormonal imbalances, the visible signs of skin aging are accelerated. Most women also experience hot flashes, which can further exacerbate any pre-existing vascular redness. In some cases, as testosterone becomes more dominant, the lipidic production may increase, causing blemishes to appear.  

In an era where environmental consciousness has become an integral part of daily life, sustainability is no longer a mere buzzword. It is a call to action. The skin care industry, driven by innovation and an unwavering pursuit of beauty, is no exception. Beyond the promises of radiant skin found in lotions, serums, and creams, this industry is undergoing a profound transformation, recognizing the paramount importance of sustainability across all its operations. The global skin care market, which reached an astounding $146.7 billion in size in 20211, is particularly influenced by personal choices when it comes to purchasing, and these choices wield significant environmental influence due to their sheer volume.

In a world increasingly conscious of environmental issues, sustainability has emerged as a central concern across various industries. However, the skin care industry stands out as an area where the impact of sustainability choices is readily visible. This article explores skin care sustainability’s importance, challenges in ingredient sourcing and packaging, and offers guidance for professionals to align with sustainability standards, including innovative packaging alternatives and product selection.

Brittany Facio is an Arizona-based master aesthetics educator and expert storyteller. At AlumierMD, she puts her 15 years of varied experience to work as a global content development lead. She is passionate about how proper aesthetics education, sophisticated protocol implementation, and subject matter expertise can create life-changing encounters. She finds harmony in her life by enjoying leisure time with her family, exercising, and relishing the food her chef-husband makes her. She and her husband have been blessed with four amazing children. They have also rescued several fur and feather babies including their German shepherd, Hurk; cat, Luna; cockatiel, Sunny; and two backyard chickens.

As the end of another transformative year approaches, the team is thrilled to bring readers another December issue full of education, faces of the industry, and holiday joy. This month’s edition is always special for two reasons – the first being the cover that greeted readers upon arrival, and the second is undoubtedly my fondness of Christmas and the holiday season. In addition to the exceptionalities of this issue, DERMASCOPE will always come bearing gifts of generic education. This time around, the theme is sustainability and chemistry, two crucial elements that define the future of aesthetics and professional skin care. 

In a world where environmental consciousness is no longer a mere option but a pressing necessity, explore how sustainability is at the core of skin care innovation. Within these pages, readers will also find valuable insights into chemistry to fuel their understanding of skin and skin care formulation. From the science behind product labels to the secrets of ingredients that have stood the test of time, this issue can work as guide to the chemistry of beauty. 

Finally, we are proud to formally introduce the winner of the 2023 cover contest, Jenny Pantoja. A gem in the Dallas scene, learn her story in the cover article of the month along with the stories of this year’s finalists. We hope you enjoy the captivating stories, expert advice, and the visual delights that fill the pages of this issue. We are grateful to readers, contributors, and industry partners for their unwavering support and dedication to the industry.