Protocol for Sensitized Skin

Written by Natalya Rachkova, L.M.E.

Sensitized skin usually occurs due to the stratum corneum being compromised. Improper function of or damage to the stratum corneum results in moisture loss, irritation, and hypersensitivity.

There is a deeper understanding of what is going on with the epidermis on sensitized skin under a microscope: abnormally functioning stratum corneum with decreased natural moisturizing factor and interruption of lipid bilayer leading to excessive dryness; increased transepidermal water loss; decreased desquamation resulting in a dry, flaky surface; inflammation in lower epidermal layers as a result of pro-inflammatory cytokines; and inflammation-activated Langerhans cells.


1.  Double cleanse the skin, including the neck and décolletage, with a cleansing lotion for sensitized skin. Remove makeup with delicate sponges soaked in warm water.

12.   Protect the client's eyes with wet cotton rounds and apply an appropriate enzyme peel to the entire face, neck, and décolletage. Let it stay on the skin for up to seven minutes. Use a gentle exfoliant to remove surface buildup without causing irritation.

3.   While the client is relaxing with the enzyme application, put lotion on their hands and cover them in warm gloves.

4.   Using warm water and sponges, rinse off the peel. Remove all dead cells with impurities from the skin, leaving skin with clean pores. Apply a warm towel over the client's face, avoiding their lips and nostrils.

5.  Use an anti-inflammatory spray, rose water, or an appropriate toner to regulate the pH balance of the skin.

6.   Apply an anti-inflammatory blend of oils by spreading it evenly across the client's face, neck, décolletage, and shoulders; effleurage movements should be used.

7.   Proceed with a 20-to-30-minute face massage, starting and finishing with lymphatic drainage. It is very important to use lymphatic drainage with sensitized skin because a lymph will help to remove all toxins, replacing them with oxygen, fresh blood, and nourishing products, such as vitamins and minerals.

28.   Perform extractions, if needed. Now is the ideal time to do so because the pores are ready to be extracted without any unwanted steaming. Furthermore, massage movements increase blood flow and allow them to be ready for extraction.

9.   Apply a gentle exfoliating cream to remove the rest of unwanted impurities and dead cells. Now the professional can apply an enzyme peel if they did an exfoliating cleanser instead of a peel.

10.   Perform light therapy with green color as it will dramatically reduce inflammation and is appropriate to do before and/or after the mask application.

11.   Apply an appropriate anti-inflammatory serum over the face and eye area (if it is allowed) and continue with the eye massage movements. Then, cover the eyes with presoak in cold cucumber or parsley extract cotton rounds.

12.   Apply an appropriate mask to the face. Choose a mask that is suitable for the client's skin type. Modeling masks with anti-inflammatory properties cool down the skin and can be taken off in one piece without any additional irritating movements. The mask should stay on for up to 20 minutes.

13.   While the client is relaxing with the mask, perform a hand treatment for up to seven minutes. Spend more than 10 minutes on the hand treatment by adding a scrub with more massage movements – now offer a hand treatment as an add-on for extra cost.

314.   Before taking off the mask, it is always great to offer a scalp and neck massage. It will reawaken the client and bring fresh blood to their heads. Finish with an ear massage.

15.   Remove the mask and make sure the face is clean, calm, and happily glowing.

16.   Apply the appropriate serum, cream, and sunscreen; educate the client on the importance of protecting sensitized skin from the sun and harsh environment.

Each spa treatment and daily care regimen should be customized using anti-inflammatory ingredients that will combat redness and discomfort. Topical ingredients that are effective in reducing the appearance of redness are often anti-inflammatory agents that influence the microcapillary function.


Natalya-RachkovaAesthetician and co-founder of The Better Skin Co., Natalya Rachkova, was born in Uzbekistan. She graduated as a registered nurse from Borovsky Medical School in 1985, and in 1987 from Aesthetic School of Tashkent. After her arrival in Washington State in 2009, Rachkova completed programs from the Aesthetic Northwest Institute and the National Institute of Medical Aesthetics. She now is a master aesthetician with over 20 years of experience. Rachkova cofounded The Better Skin Co. in late 2015. Better Skin Mirakle Cream is based on her secret recipe that she has been making for over 25 years.

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