Wednesday, 18 May 2016 05:04

What’s your recipe for treating clients with sensitive skin?

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A primary consideration regarding skin sensitivities is the possibility of underlying internal factors that may provoke inflammation, such as medications and allergies. These factors often equate to both acute and chronic skin sensitization. A thorough consultation and a detailed skin analysis, via a Wood's lamp, hydration level meter, and other evaluation devices, are vital tools to assist in establishing the level or degree of sensitivity.

External and Internal Factors
The client's homecare regime should be carefully evaluated to identify possible product and ingredient incompatibilities, antagonists, misuse of products, and compliant homecare. A thorough inquiry of previous dermatology and skin care services should also be considered, as well as the client's lifelong exposure to the sun. Environmental and chemical factors, including free radical damage due to hydrogen peroxide, lipid peroxidation, hydroxyl and similar radicals, and glycation, should be considered
potential antagonists.

Additional aspects that may impact the resultant barrier function of the skin and are considered hallmarks for increased sensitivity include: transepidermal water loss, alipidic tendencies, dehydration, excessive use of hot water, poor nutritional habits and the consumption of pro-inflammatory foods, and inferior-ingredient or inexpensive skin, hair, and body care products, laundry detergents, and fragrances. The importance of recognizing the dynamic connection of the internal-external relationship of sensitive skin is very evident, especially with sensitive skin syndrome, and requires careful consideration regarding treatment modalities and product use.

Treatment and Ingredient Options
Techniques and devices conducive to treatment include manual lymphatic drainage, cool compresses, a Lucas championniere atomizer, beauty globes or gemstone rollers, LED diode therapy (red 660 nanometers), and microcurrent within the frequency range of 300 to 500 microamps and 0.1 to 680 hertz with a viscous microcurrent gel containing peptides
and liposomes.

The Lucas championniere atomizer (pulverizer) can be of great benefit to sensitive skin because it delivers a microfine, hydrating mist to the skin without excessive heat, which may cause inflammation. It also enables a variety of products to be infused in the pulverizer itself. As an alternative to traditional steaming, the Lucas championniere atomizer can be used with teas, herbal tinctures, hydrosols, and floral waters for a "cooler" steaming effect with the additional anti-inflammatory and hydration benefits of these components.

Some of the most effective and traditional anti-inflammatory ingredients include: aloe vera, arnica, azulene, calendula, chamomile, colloidal oatmeal, cucumber extract, feverfew, sea buckthorn, horse chestnut, white willow, evening primrose, borage oil, olive oil, fenugreek, licochalcone, niacinamide, Quadrinone, salicylic acid, sulfacetamide, witch hazel, and zinc. Alginate masks with a hydrophilic, colloid jelly consistency are very beneficial for soothing and hydrating, as are moist masks that do not have drawing and drying agents.

Clients with high sensitivity and those who exhibit the stinging subtype should take special care to avoid topical products containing alpha hydroxyl acids (particularly glycolic acid), benzoic acid, cinnamic acid compounds, formaldehyde, propylene glycol, quaternary ammonium compounds, sodium lauryl sulfate, sorbic acid, octylmethoxycinnamate, octinoxate, avobenzene, oxybenzone, urea, abrasive exfoliants, and fragranced products.

With the myriad of exceptional product and equipment technologies available today, the management of sensitive skin is within attainable parameters for improving the appearance, sensitivity, and function of this skin type.

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