Eyebrows make statements. Understanding how eyebrows work will help makeup artists give clients the look they want.
The average eyebrow length measures between 1 7/8 to 2 3/8 inches, or approximately six centimeters. The eyebrows consist of three areas: the head, body, and tail. The head, which is the inner part of the eyebrow, is located below the orbital margin with hairs growing vertically and slantwise. The body is the middle part of the eyebrow. It is the widest and densest part of the eyebrow with hairs growing horizontally and slantwise. The tail, or the outer part of the eyebrow, is located above the orbital margin. It is the narrowest part of the eyebrow and slopes downward.
The arch of the eyebrow is the “high point” or “peak” of the eyebrow. Ideally, the arch should be located somewhere between the outer third and outer quarter of the eyebrow. Eyebrow hair grows from the root of the follicle. The root, made up of blood, cells, and protein, is fed by blood vessels. Blood creates more cells, which makes hair grow. Many clients need help growing their eyebrows. Growth serums are one solution because they stimulate circulation and increase blood flow. Biotin vitamins also help with hair growth.
LET’S FACE IT
Faces come in all shapes and sizes. Face shape and eyebrow design go hand-in-hand. Let’s take a look…
The goal is to make the face look longer or less round. An angular eyebrow with a high arch accomplishes this goal. Create an eyebrow shape that follows a straight line to the arch of the eyebrow. Stay away from a rounded eyebrow shape.
The goal is to make the face appear shorter. A flat eyebrow, as opposed to an arched eyebrow, makes this goal happen. Flat eyebrows will draw attention away from the length of the face and, instead, will add a little width. It is the same concept of horizontal stripes in fashion. Create an eyebrow shape with a low arch. Stay away from definite arches.
The goal is to balance out the jawline. Curved eyebrows work, but an angled eyebrow is ideal as it does a better job of evening out the face. Make sure the arch of the eyebrow is directly above the square of the jawline. The eyebrows should be on the thinner side to soften the appearance of the face.
The goal is rounded eyebrows with soft arches. The arch may be high or low, depending on whether it is a short or long, heart-shaped face. Eyebrow width should be natural; it should not be too bushy and not too thin.
The goal is to soften the face and draw attention away from the width. A curved eyebrow achieves this goal. Overall, it makes the widest part subtle. The arch elongates the face, creating balance, so it is not strikingly angular.
BROWS RIGHT NOW
Eyebrows are big, bold, and beautiful right now! They are angled and boxy, whereas they used to be more rounded in the head. Highlighting above and below the eyebrow makes them stand out. To create an ombré style, which is currently in style, start lighter at the head and go darker toward the tail.
Several services can be offered to clients to achieve perfect eyebrows! First, a combination of eyebrow tint and henna can be offered. Eyebrow tint deposits color in the cuticle of hair and henna stains the skin and hair. Custom eyebrow stencils is another option, while microblading will probably be frequently requested. Microblading implements semi-permanent color with a sharp blade, creating individual hair strokes on the skin. Finally, permanent makeup can be provided, as well. Eyebrow fibers, liquid hair fibers, eyebrow filler, and semi-permanent liners, pencils, and liquids can be sold too!