What’s your recipe for the perfect homecare regimen?

Written by Kathleen Carney, CEO of Skin Blends LLC

Unfortunately, there is no such thing as a perfect homecare regimen because nobody's skin is the same and everybody's skin is ever changing. That is why clients need skin care professionals. Some professionals are truly missing an opportunity by not taking the time to talk to clients every time they visit the spa about what products they are currently using and what issues they are currently having with their skin. Initially, this gives professionals insight as to the client's skin care budget, knowledge, loyalties, and the amount of time they are willing to spend to take care of their skin.

This consultation also needs to address the client's lifestyle, genetic predispositions, and health considerations. A skin analysis should also be performed with their makeup on, to determine skin type (oil production). Professionals should then remove any makeup to do a more thorough skin analysis, using a lighted magnifying glass to identify skin conditions, in level of treatment order, depending on severity. Professionals must first treat traumatized conditions, then sensitized skin, inflamed skin, non-inflamed skin, and aging skin, in that order.

Now that the crucial information has been gathered, it is time to select or formulate the appropriate homecare products based on skin type and skin conditions. It is best to outline the steps of a morning and evening skin care routine, as well as weekly miniature treatments (help the client pick and commit to a day). Have them keep a scrub in the shower to use as needed for ongoing exfoliation. Keep in mind that most clients will not be able to invest in a complete regimen right away, so the first product to sell a client should always be a sunscreen. Next, in order of importance, clients should purchase a moisturizer, cleanser, treatment serum(s), mineral makeup, toner, and eye and lip treatments.

Morning Skin Care Routine
Clients should start their morning skin care routine by cleansing with a cleanser that is appropriate for their skin type and customized for any skin conditions they may have. They should follow with a toner that is also tailored to their needs. After toning, clients should use a treatment serum. If the client needs to use more than one serum, the following treatment priority order should be followed: healing, balancing, calming, non-inflamed acne, brightening, and aging. It should also be noted that serums may be mixed with vitamin C crystals because vitamin C helps protect the skin from ultraviolet and free radical damage; it also brightens, exfoliates, heals, and rejuvenates skin. Clients should follow with a tailored hydrator or moisturizer that may either be layered or mixed, SPF, mineral foundation, and a lip treatment.

Evening Skin Care Routine
During the evening, clients should start their routine with a gentle eye cleanser followed by a cleanser. After cleansing, clients should use their toner and an alpha hydroxy acid/beta hydroxy acid exfoliating serum. Next, their treatment serum(s) should be used in the same order as in the morning routine. The serum(s) should be followed by a hydrator or moisturizer and an eye and lip treatment, if needed.

Home Care Tip
Nothing is worse than seeing an older client with a neck and chest area that looks 15 years younger than their face. This difference often occurs because those areas have been neglected, usually due to sun damage. Be sure to recommend that clients use professional skin care products on their face, neck, and chest (their hands would also benefit). In order for the professional to really set themselves apart from other aestheticians, they should customize each product for each client; therefore, clients cannot purchase their formulas elsewhere. It opens up a whole new level of professionalism as skin care professionals adjust the formulas as the client's skin adjusts.

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