The term exfoliation includes mechanical instruments or instruments that administer substances, such as brushing machines, microdermabrasion, and granular scrubs. There are various chemical and enzyme exfoliants available. This is an overview of exfoliating agents pertaining to chemical peels, the precautions, and pre- and post-care of skin.

Alexandra J. Zani is an international educator, licensed instructor, speaker, author, and researcher in the professional skin care industry. Academic background includes cell biology and medical technology. Zani is on the Education Commission of the International Association for Applied Corneotherapy, is a member of NCEA (National Coalition of Estheticians, Associations, and Distributors), and is certified in Oncology Esthetics and the Pastiche Method of Skin Analysis. Zani is the owner and director of AEsthani Skincare Institute, LLC in Greenville, South Carolina and is also co-founder of Intellective Aesthetics, dedicated to post-graduate aesthetics studies.

Although chemical peels have been around since ancient Egyptian times, when peel instruction in medical and aesthetic textbooks took hold in the 1980s, much has changed today. Aggressive peels were being used globally by the early 1900s, and in the 30s and 40s, women from the Eastern Bloc settled in New York, New York and Los Angeles, California where they opened practices specifically to peel the complexions of socialites. Providing only skeletal information to doctors, they were able to keep their formulas and peeling techniques amongst themselves. Other skin professionals later analyzed these peel formulations to come up with their own peels. Some of these formulas are still in use today. 

Cathy Wainwright’s lifelong endeavor has been skin care and aesthetic balance. She has been tweezing eyebrows and teaching makeup and product application since her formative school years. As a versatile professional, Wainwright has been enmeshed in the study of skin, aesthetics, business building and cosmetic chemistry. She has owned a skin care studio and day spa and has worked alongside plastic surgeons, dermatologists, aesthetic nurses, and a host of top aestheticians for over 40 years. She believes in digging deep, past the superficial layer to ask what if.

According to most medical practitioners, the goal of a chemical peel is to remove a predictable, uniform thickness of damaged skin, which subsequently allows for normal wound healing and skin rejuvenation to occur while simultaneously minimizing complications, such as scarring and unwanted pigmentary change.¹

An educational icon with over 37 years in the in the aesthetic industry, Dr. Erin Madigan-Fleck is a naturopathic medical doctor, licensed master cosmetologist, aesthetician, and licensed aesthetic instructor. Dr. Madigan-Fleck received her naturopathic doctoral degree from the University of Science, Arts & Technology College of Medicine and her naturopathic clinical studies at Progressive Medical Center in Atlanta, Georgia. She is a member of the American Society for Nutrition, International Association for Applied Corneotherapy, and the Society of Dermatological Skin Care Specialists. She is the CEO and owner of Naturophoria, a naturopathic and skin care clinic in Atlanta, Georgia and DermaEducationTV postgraduate aesthetic training.

Exfoliation is the new cleansing step. Just as quality cleansing removes dirt, oil, and makeup, exfoliation goes a little deeper to rid skin of critical factors which advance the signs of aging and affect skin health. Over the last decade, clinical research has shown that the cumulative impact of environmental factors like pollution particles, ultraviolet rays, blue light, chemicals, and urban dust accelerate a loss of skin elasticity, wrinkling, discoloration, and the onset of chronic skin conditions. A recent review by The Journal of Women in Dermatology demonstrated that skin is the gateway for pollutants, viruses, and bacteria to enter the blood stream, affecting not only cosmetic beauty but overall wellbeing. With this knowledge, exfoliation takes on a whole new meaning and purpose in homecare and clinical skin treatment. Recent advancements in understanding the benefits of the various exfoliating technologies, not only as standalone treatments but also when used in combination with other aesthetic modalities, has put a spotlight on the true power of the combined exfoliation steps to change and redefine skin’s appearance. Exfoliation not only improves complexion but can also minimize chronic skin conditions by removing particles trapped in surface skin cells and preparing skin to absorb restorative ingredients.

With two decades in the beauty and skin care industries, Celeste Hilling is the founder, CEO, and product formulator for Skin Authority. Hilling is an esteemed speaker and media resource on skin care, healthy lifestyles, self-esteem, and business. Skin Authority is respected for developing pure and powerful products without the use of parabens, added fragrance, dyes, or animal testing.

The global herbal supplement market was valued at $6.3 billion in 2020. Current market research indicates that herbal extract ingredients, as well as herbal dietary supplements, are expected to continue to rise in consumer demand in 2022. Clients are showing an increased interest in alternative wellness supplements to help shore up immune system and relieve stress.

Diet, hormones, and stress in addition to environmental elements are all taken into consideration as skin care professionals treat and create home routines specific to acne conditions. But as clients look to support their overall health with herbal ingredients, professionals can offer them several ways to boost their targeted treatments.

Clearing acne is one thing, but keeping acne at bay can be equally, if not more daunting of a task. When treating multiethnic skin, skin care professionals need to be aware that there are significant differences between the various phototypes in human skin. What are these differences? How do darker skin tones manage to and stay clear of acne?

In January 2021, The Journal of Drugs in Dermatology convened a panel of six dermatologists that were well experienced in treating skin of color. The study’s primary efforts were to determine whether there was a racial or ethnic difference in the clinical presentation and sequela of acne, the therapeutic endpoint of acne treatment and patient expectations, and the need for specialized approaches for acne patients with skin of color.

This study found six important and unanimous points of agreement based on the data they reviewed. While some of these statements may seem a bit on the obvious side, a professional who commits these six statements to their working memory will understand acne on multicultural skin far better than before.

The biggest question every new skin care professional considers is what they should specialize in. The other question that comes to mind is whether they are doing a disservice to clients by only focusing on one area. But how do they even know what they are passionate about unless they have a wide variety of experience?

While winter brings shorter days as the Northern Hemisphere tilts away from the sun, the sun’s rays remain ever-present. Ultraviolet (UV) radiation from the sun or artificial sources can damage skin year-round by resulting in premature aging and adversely affecting the DNA in skin cells. Ultraviolet ray exposure is also cumulative, which increases the risk of skin cancer over time. Ultraviolet B rays are responsible for producing sunburns and are most often the cause behind skin cancers such as malignant melanoma; whereas ultraviolet A rays are always present, penetrating skin more deeply and causing photoaging.

Excessive, unprotected sun exposure is damaging to skin. It puts clients at risk for sunburn and ages them prematurely. Those are facts. Worst case scenario, it can cause skin cancer. Using a self-tanner is a practical alternative if clients are sun worshippers, but are these products safe? How do they work? Do they provide any sun protection? Is there a risk?

If clients are a fan of that sun-kissed glow, but do not want to expose skin to harmful ultraviolet (UV) rays, they can get that tanned look from a bottle. When skin is exposed to ultraviolet rays from the sun, melanin spreads to the surface in a fight-or-flight response to protect skin from damage, creating the darker pigment. Self-tanners give that faux glow without all the serious side effects of sun damage. They are sold over the counter in the form of lotions, creams, and sprays. Clients can even go to a booth and get professionally spray-tanned car-wash style. If clients opt for this option, they should remember to exfoliate.

Platelet-rich plasma (PRP) is an emerging trend within the medical aesthetics industry and is derived from a client’s own blood. Once blood is drawn, it is spun in a centrifuge. Special tubes with chemicals separate the blood into components, allowing the provider to pull the platelets and use them as an adjunct in certain treatments. Most systems produce platelet-rich plasma that have a platelet concentration approximately six times that of unspun blood.

Lisa Jenks, M.D. began her medical career in emergency medicine. In 2007, she transitioned into aesthetic medicine, opening Genesis MedSpa. Since then, she has grown Genesis into a 10-treatment room facility, with a staff of 22. Under her direction, Genesis has won many “Best of” awards, as well as the BBB’s Excellence in Customer Service Award four times. Dr. Jenks serves on the advisory board for Skin, Inc. and consults with physicians across the United States who are interested in a career in aesthetic medicine.