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By Jeremy Lawrence | January 16, 2019

Whether it is an overbearing coworker or a frustrating client, dealing with difficult people from time to time is a fact of life. Here are a couple of tips for getting along better with others.

Slow Down
There is great value in being contemplative and reflective. Take time to pause and think about people, situations, and events that cause stress or frustration. Often this simple step can prevent rash commentary, impulsive responses, and unnecessary conflict. When faced with a person or scenario that evokes irritation, stop, take a few slow, deep breaths, evaluate what it is about the situation that is upsetting, and then, if possible, talk it out. Others seldom intend to cause ill-feelings. Pausing to think is often all it takes to clear things up.

Be Positive
Positivity is powerful. People who exude flexibility, kindness, and optimism naturally come across as more attractive and approachable. Simple acts like giving and accepting compliments, being understanding, and smiling contribute greatly to a positive demeanor. Besides just gaining favor from others, being a positive person will also have a ripple effect, contributing to the overall environment. Start by working on just one element of being positive a little each day and it will quickly become second-nature.



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By Jeremy Lawrence | January 16, 2019

On Friday, May 12, 2017, at Repêchage, preschoolers pampered their mothers with a spa day. Each child gave their mothers a miniature facial using Repêchage professional spa products recreating a true spa experience. Earlier in the week, Shiri Sarfati, a school mother and aesthetician, gave kids a tutorial on how to perform proper facial massage techniques and then showed the kids how to apply a sheet mask. The kids loved learning about how to take care of their moms and make them feel relaxed and pampered.



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By Amanda Strunk Miller | January 16, 2019

While researching on Forbes.com the other day, I came across a list of 10 words that should be “erased from your vocabulary – immediately.” Being an editor, I instantly became intrigued with what this list could consist of. Personally, I believe that if certain words should not be in my vocabulary, they definitely should not be included in writing… and after reading the list, I have to say that I agree. It especially seems that in such an industry as ours we should be as professional and qualified as possible, even in our speech with others.

Here is the list of words excerpted from the article, “10 Words to Erase From Your Vocabulary,” explanatory text included:

  1. Um – Josh Tolan, CEO of job matching service Spark Hire, calls this a “placeholder word” that makes you sound indecisive and inarticulate.
  2. Can’t – Henry Devries, co-author of “Closing America’s Job Gap” and assistant dean for continuing education at the University of California San Diego, says the word can’t really means I won’t or I don’t know how. A better way to say it: I want to learn how to do that.
  3. Like – Nancy Mobley, founder of consulting firm Insight Performance, says that when like is used as a filler word, it shows incompetence and poor communication skills.
  4. Never – “Don’t tempt fate,” says Dale Austin, director of the Career Development Center at Hope College. Never eliminates even the possibility of an idea, which can be both discouraging and naïve.
  5. But – Darlene Price, author of “Well Said,” says the word but negates anything that comes before it. She suggests replacing it with the word and or re-phrasing.
  6. Innovative – This one regularly lands on LinkedIn’s annual list of the most overused business buzz-words. Strike it from your resume.
  7. Probably – Austin says that probably, along with phrases like I guess and sort of, is tentative and does not reflect confidence or strength.
  8. No – “Nobody likes to hear no,” says Devries. “Instead, try the phrase I wish I could.”
  9. Et cetera – Robert Finder, author of “The Financial Professional’s Guide to Communication,” calls this a “non-word” that makes others do all the work. Instead, provide meaningful examples to illustrate your point.
  10. Really – Finder calls this a “poor attempt to instill candor and truthfulness” that makes clients and co-workers question whether you are really telling the truth.

I know I am guilty of more than a few of these habitual filler words. Forbes says these words are common among conversation, but they mean nothing and will get us nowhere in our dialogue. But what struck me were the descriptive words used with each explanation… words like indecisive, inarticulate, incompetence, discouraging and naïve. In our industry, we need to be the exact opposite! Clients expect their aesthetician to be experienced, communicative, encouraging, proficient and resolved when it comes to their skin. This will be much easier to do when you build confidence with them through your dialogue. It can often make clients second guess the professional nature of the spa and even the aesthetician. Do not let your clients sense any doubt or uncertainty – especially through your speech.

Resource: http://www.forbes.com/pictures/eikh45hfkf/fillers-and-qualifiers-and-jargon-oh-my/

amanda-sig-gold

Amanda Strunk Miller



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By | January 16, 2019

Abhyanga (pronounced Abbey Unger – as in younger) is a Sanskrit word. Abhy means "to rub" and anga means "limbs". Abhyanga is, just as it says, rubbing oil into the skin from head to toe. Fundamentally it is as simple as that. There are many translations of the word beyond this purely literal one, some more engaging than others. Here are a brief collection from the one found in a classic texts to something you might find in a spa menu.

Application
Often this technique is presented beautifully in the spa, almost like a therapeutic dance performed by one or multiple massage therapists using a wide variety of exotic herbal or essential oils. But like many Ayurvedic techniques, it is just as beneficial, if not more, to do at home for yourself on a regular basis. After all, the therapeutic basis of the treatment comes primarily from oiling the skin. The instructions for home care Abhyanga are simple. Use the oil directly from the bottle. In cooler weather, or when you want the oil to penetrate the skin more quickly, warm the oil so it is comfortable to the touch. Work the oil in thoroughly around all the joints and use firm friction over the long bones of the arms and legs. The goal is to cover every inch of the skin and push as much oil into the body as will be absorbed in 20 minutes. Rest and allow the oil to penetrate, apply an ubtan (herbal dusting powder), and shower. It is better not to use soap and you will then find body lotion unnecessary.

Abhyanga has been practiced for thousands of years in India as the primary technique to support health, beauty and longevity. Traditionally, it was a family affair with each generation participating. Women would massage themselves and one another; mothers would massage their babies and husbands; husbands would massage their wives. Oil was applied and rest was taken while wrapped up warm or laying in the sun. Sometimes an herbal powder would be dusted on the body. Mud and herbs could be applied in a fine paste before a bath or shower. Various powders are sold as various types of "ubtans" today.

Oils to Use
We are also lucky to many wonderful organic herbal, essential oil blends or simple base oils available in most spas and whole food stores. The main oil of choice is cold pressed organic sesame oil. Coconut or sunflower can be used in hot weather or mustard oil when it is really cold.
sachsSpecialized herbal and essential oil blends are available that match different body types. They often go by their Ayurvedic names: VATA (blends for the slender, more nervous individual or the frequent traveler), PITTA (blends for the active, type "A" personality), and KAPHA (blends for the curvy, more easygoing characters). A blend made with pomegranate rind and fragranced with a traditional scent of amber is available to beautify the breasts and mahanarayana oil (an oil containing many different Indian herbs) to ease joint and muscle pain. Like with all cosmetic selections you can go more basic or really high end, but in the end the story is the same. You have to follow the routine to see the results. The more often you do Abhyanga for yourself, the quicker you will see and feel the difference. Many people do it daily, while others do it one to three times a week. You can do it at any time. It is also particularly helpful to offset jetlag.

How Self-Abhyanga Benefits Your Body
Even if you practice self-abhyanga once a week, you will gradually see beneficial changes that might include any of the following:

  • Your body feels trimmer, firmer and stronger; ideal weight is more easily achieved.
  • Your skin becomes even in tone, smells fragrant, looks well hydrated with fewer or less deep lines and wrinkles and feels soft and pleasing to the touch.
  • Your joints move more easily and no longer click or pop. You feel more flexible, more energetic and have less pain or stiffness.
  • You can work harder and exercise longer without fatigue, stress or discomfort.
  • Your body is more resistant to injury and strenuous physical work; the body heals faster.
  • Your posture is better, movement more confident and younger looking.
  • Your immune, nervous and digestive systems become stronger.
  • Your body flushes out toxins more thoroughly and more regularly.
  • All your senses are clearer.
  • Your circulation is improved.
  • Your hair grows stronger.

How Self-Abhyanga Benefits Your Mind
Looking great is wonderful but feeling great is an even bigger plus. You may experience positive changes in mood even before you see a younger looking body.

  • Your mind feels a sense of comfort, which produces a state of relaxed or restful alertness and openness.
  • You have a better quality of sleep, fall asleep easier and get back to sleep after waking more easily.
  • You feel clearer about your life purpose and have better self-esteem.
  • You feel less anxious.
  • Emotionally you feel more balanced and generally happier.
  • You feel more connected, less isolates or lonely.

How does a simple oil massage achieve so much? The answer is the quality and properties of the oil. These results are not achievable with synthetic oils or even organic lotions. Oils, especially sesame oil, are capable of penetrating the skin and muscle tissue, as well as getting to the deepest articulating surfaces of the joints and inner lining of the digestive tract in just 20 minutes. If herbal or essential oils are part of the blend, they literally hitch a ride and travel into the body with the oil. Oil in the joints works just like oiling a rusty gate; it makes all movements smoother, less heat is produced, has less inflammation and greater ease of motion. In the digestive tract oil, lines the gut like oil lining a cake pan and allows toxins and wastes to flow out both more freely and more thoroughly. Any engineer will tell you an engine that is well greased and runs clean is going look and feel good for a long time. Your body works in just the same way!

Contradictions
Though this process is gentle and pleasurable, the effects run deep and for this reason the precautions should be taken seriously. Do not give yourself or others Abhyanga:

  • Over swollen, painful areas or masses on the body, without the knowledge and consent of your healthcare practitioner.Over rheumatoid arthritic joints, unless you are using medicated herbal or aromatherapy oils therapeutically designed for this condition. Plain oil of any kind can aggravate the condition.
  • Over infected or broken skin and definitely not over stitches or tender skin after a peel.
  • When there is high toxicity in the body. This is indicated by a thick, white coating on the tongue, great physical discomfort, bad body odor or acute illness such as acute fever, chills or flu.
  • During acute indigestion – abdominal pain of gas or directly after taking laxative.
  • During the menstrual cycle. Some women do not like to stop Self-Abhyanga during their cycle. If you chose to do it during your cycle, it is best to only apply the oil gently and for only about five minutes. This is a natural time of cleansing and not a time to give the body even more work to do.
  • During pregnancy, with the exception of oil on the belly to help prevent stretch marks.
  • When you have a serious medical condition and do not have the permission of your healthcare provider.

DOUBLE-IMAGE

At Home Treatment
Abhyanga is by nature an oily business. Without planning it can quickly feel too messy to do with the regularity needed for the best results. Originally, Self-Abhyanga would have been done in a garden or marble bath house designed for the job. In the modern world, it is more likely you will be in the bathroom. Here are a few tips we have learned to keep the cleanup just as quick and easy as the massage itself:

  • Keep one towel for sitting on when you apply the oil and one that you use only for drying off after your shower. Better these are old towels as they will get oily and without professional laundry service they will gradually be spoiled.
  • After you have rinsed off, put a generous squirt of dish soap on the tub or shower floor. Use a floor mop as you let the shower flow over it and wash everything down the drain. This will help keep your drains clear. Use an environmentally friendly drain cleaner once a month if you do Self- Abhyanga daily.
  • If you find that more often the time for Self-Abhyanga is in the evening, wear a special set of natural fiber nightclothes for at least an hour after your shower. It seems like there are always little oily nooks that escape the shower and towel. If you choose to leave your hair oily overnight, cover your pillow with a plastic bag and towel.
  • Oily towels should be dried outside or on low heat. There have been cases where oily linens have caught fire, so use the drier only when home and awake.

A certified Ayurvedic Lifestyle Counselor, Melanie Sachs' skill as a healer and teacher have made her sought after by some of the world's leading spas and schools of beauty. Her book, Ayurvedic Beauty Care (Lotus Light Publications), is considered a must for those interested in the expanding field of natural and conscious beauty and body care. Sachs is dedicated to bringing the timeless wisdom of Ayurveda to the West. She has especially focused her attention on the needs of women in these times when traditional female roles are expanding. Although certainly exciting, such changes in women's roles and activity create additional stresses and demands, for which Ayurveda offers nurturing, supportive solutions.



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By | January 16, 2019

Women, and now more men, consult with aesthetics professionals for a variety of different reasons. Some come with specific skin issues like sun damage, rosacea or acne, while others come more for the relaxing and pampering aspect of aesthetic services. Others come to the spa and receive facial treatments and purchase professional products in an effort to not only maintain healthy skin, but also to prevent premature aging and future damage. This last group of clients presents a well of opportunities for long-term relationship building and client retention, as well as for new prevention-oriented services.

It is Easier to Be Ahead of Time than to try to Reverse It
One of the most challenging scenarios is when a client comes for a consultation that already has a skin condition like severe elastosis and wrinkling from sun and environmental damage, rosacea in its advanced (disfiguring) stages, or acne that has already begun to significantly scar. Of course we do the best we can to improve the appearance of the current state of their skin, but often times so much damage has been done that full resolution is only possible with a medical or surgical intervention.
Another challenge is when clients with these advanced skin conditions come with unrealistic expectations of what results they can expect from a treatment, whether it is an acne facial, chemical exfoliation or a laser treatment. Even invasive medical treatments cannot fully repair all conditions or types of damage. Once the client learns this after consulting with an aesthetician/medical skin care professional, or after receiving many treatments without the results he or she was expecting, it is very disheartening.
While we must still be prepared to work with these more advanced clients, we must also realize the importance of catching these conditions before they appear, or before they progress past the point of no return.

Shift Your Target to Include Different Demographics
Many aestheticians and spas primarily target baby boomers and people over age 50 due to several factors including:

  • Quantity: It is predicted that by the end of 2012 "America's 50 and older population will reach 100 million"1… and since the oldest members of the baby boomer generation began turning 65 in 2010, the percentage will continue to rise.
  • More Disposable Income: Many members of this generation have fewer financial obligations than younger generations. Their children are grown, and many of them own their homes free and clear.
  • More Health Conscious: Baby boomers and adults over the age of 50 have more awareness than their parents' generation had of the importance of diet and lifestyle, and how these factors affect longevity. They do not want the quality of their later years limited by poor health and low levels of fitness like the generation of their parents. They want to preserve youth and live not just long, but also happier and healthier lives.

It is important to continue marketing to this demographic for the above reasons, but also to realize that knowledge has the potential to trickle down to younger generations. By providing these clients with tips and strategies on how they can maintain the skin they have and prevent future damage, there is a great chance they will share the information with their friends, as well as their adult or teenage children.

Holistic Preventative Measures
Many skin concerns like acne, rosacea and eczema are linked to internal digestive and cardiovascular issues, as well as systemic fungal infections like Candidiasis. Some simple dietary changes can help resolve these issues. While it is not the aesthetician's job to diagnose, treat or prescribe a specific diet plan for clients, they can certainly share information that is considered to be common knowledge. In the case of acne, for instance, it is often helpful to reduce or eliminate one's intake of sugar and most forms of dairy. It is also helpful to introduce some form of probiotic2 in the form of a supplement, or high quality fermented foods like Greek yogurt, kefir or cultured vegetables. This is information that is now taught in many aesthetic education programs.
It is also well within an aesthetician's scope of practice to recommend healthy lifestyle choices such as physical activity, adequate hydration, stress management, and giving up toxic behaviors such as smoking, drug use, and overuse of alcohol.
Stress, in particular, has been widely studied for how its negative effects on one's mental health and digestive health can cause acne breakouts.3 Stress is also a common trigger for eczema, rosacea and even psoriasis. While it is impossible to completely eliminate stress from one's life, it is possible to partially control its effects on the body. Many simple strategies, such as deep breathing and aromatherapy, can be incorporated into aesthetic treatments, and can also be easily done by the client at home.
The quality of one's diet also has a direct effect on the body's ability to heal from wounds, and can determine how likely or unlikely one is to scar.4 It is important to emphasize the value of nutrient-dense, whole foods rich in vitamins, minerals, essential fatty acids and antioxidants – especially to teenage and young adult clients (and their parents) who are at the perfect age to develop positive habits and prevent future damage.

In Order to Educate Clients, Aestheticians Must Also Become Educated
While aestheticians are trained on the latest anti-aging and preventative techniques and services in skin care, many do not receive education about other factors that contribute to how the skin ages such as lifestyle and nutrition. Fortunately, continuing education on these topics is easily accessible and widely available. Many professional skin care product manufacturers and distributors, as well as advanced aesthetics schools offer short-term courses and workshop trainings on holistic topics like nutrition, chinese face reading, reflexology and ayurveda. Non-aesthetics institutions like community colleges and holistic health coach training schools offer longer-term continuing education and certification programs on these same topics.
Becoming more educated in the areas of health, nutrition and lifestyle makes aestheticians and spas/salons stand out more among their competitors. It additionally helps clients get faster, more dramatic, and longer lasting results. The increased communication and consultation time also helps to build and nurture better and stronger relationships and levels of trust between the aesthetician and client, which enhances the client's overall experience. All of this is wonderful for client retention and new client referrals.
Of course we are in business to make money, but aestheticians are also in the position of helping people to improve their appearance and the health of their skin. This, in turn, can improve someone's self esteem, his or her level of confidence during interactions with others, and his or her overall quality of life. What a huge opportunity to positively impact someone's life!

References:
Pirkl, James J. "The Demographics of Aging..." Home of Transgenerational Design Matters. James J. Pirkl, 2009. Web. 14 Aug. 2012. http://transgenerational.org/aging/demographics.htm>.
"How to Get Radiant Skin: From Acne to Eczema, Kiss Inflammatory Skin Disorders Goodbye!" Body Ecology. Body Ecology, Inc., 1 Aug. 2012. Web. 14 Aug. 2012. <http://bodyecology.com/articles/how-to-get-radiant-skin-from-acne-to-eczema-kiss-inflammatory-skin-disorders-goodbye>.
Bowe, Whitney P., and Alan C. Logan. "Acne Vulgaris, Probiotics and the Gut-brain-skin Axis - Back to the Future?" Gut Pathogens. BioMed Central, LTD, Part of Springer Science+Business Media, 31 Jan. 2011. Web. 14 Aug. 2012. <http://www.gutpathogens.com/content/3/1/1>.
Pontillo, Rachael C. "Is Your Diet Affecting the Way Your Body Heals?" Holistically Haute: Is Your Diet Affecting the Way Your Body Heals? Holistically Haute, LLC, 8 June 2011. Web. 14 Aug. 2012. <http://www.holisticallyhaute.com/2011/06/is-your-diet-affecting-way-your-body.html>



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By Jeremy Lawrence | January 16, 2019

Anne Willis has been part of the aesthetic industry since 1976. As a young woman, she suffered from cystic acne, which set the course for her future career in aesthetics. As she searched for ways to heal her skin, she knew that whatever the outcome she would one day be of service to others that suffered from skin ailments. From adversity she was able to launch a career as one of the first clinical aestheticians to work with physicians. Anne developed disciplined strategic protocols that enhanced skin recovery for thousands that had undergone plastic surgery procedures and became highly regarded by prominent physicians who would rely on her expertise for skin therapeutics.

As one of the industry's most outstanding innovators in the world of holistic skin care, Anne lectures nationally regarding collaborative care for medical institutions and skin reactions incurred by patients receiving combined chemotherapy. She is the founder of De La Terre Skincare® and the director of Oncology Skin Therapeutics™, bringing over 38 years of experience and knowledge to a new generation of skin therapist.

 I have been part of the skin care industry since 1976. Since then, I have held various roles and positions such as: clinical practitioner, educator, skin clinic owner, author, product formulator, lecturer and mentor. However, there is no single aspect of my work that has impacted me or taught the most. I have always believed that being diverse allows one to push beyond restraints that prohibit growth. All my roles have allowed me to go beyond my comfort zone, challenging me to develop various talents I never thought I possessed. I feel each position has given me the courage and confidence to practice with an innovative perspective. I believe it is important to try things you never thought you could do, but go in with the intention that you want to develop a new aspect of yourself. I have always believed in the purpose of my work and surrounded myself with others that share the same passion. Passion is my secret to keeping life in balance and enjoying the journey. It is on the days that I am ready to throw in the hat that I receive an e-mail or call from someone with a testimonial that our products or training has changed and improved someone's life. I conclude the conversation with a moment of humility and know I have been given the nudge needed to go on. I feel I was destined to have a career in the skin care industry. I have had to reinvent myself within the industry several times, but have never diverted from the core of what I believe. My philosophy has been far from convenient or conventional. It has been honest and with the purist intention. I came into this profession with no real skills or tools, but a desire to help others overcome adverse skin conditions as I had suffered as a young girl. I have never followed trends in order to make myself relevant, but instead focused on helping people achieve health and wellness. Someone once said, "It takes two to see one, you cannot see yourself in a void." My clients, students, and professional colleagues all provide a reflecting pool, allowing me to see my purpose more clearly.de-la-terre-skincare logo


Anne's response on the tools that her treatment room would not be complete without:

I do not believe in equipment or mechanical tools. I do believe that the earth provides the only tools necessary for skin recovery. Gemstone massage wands are considered nature's galvanic current, providing deep relaxation and better penetration of products. The pure crystalline presence of the gemstones provides the treatment room with a sense of well-being and offers many health benefits.

More from our interview with Anne:

DERMASCOPE:
Has there been a constant theme that has led you from one point to the next throughout your training and career? (i.e. asking questions, reading certain material, etc.)

Anne:
My theme has been to trust my gut instinct. I have relied heavily on observation and being keen to understand the voids and needs of the industry. I adore researching historical data. Especially remedies from rural Asian countries where all they have is the earth and plants for medicine. It is invaluable to study abroad. It is essential to gain a global perspective on what interest you. You will find that in some of the most remote corners of the world there is a practitioner that sees the treatment of skin through same lens as you.

DERMASCOPE:
What has surprised you most during your professional journey?

Anne:
It is surprising to me that we still do not have national standardization for our industry. I feel unification of guidelines and standards from state to state would bring greater recognition and respect to the aesthetic industry.

DERMASCOPE:
Do you have any regrets, or is there any one thing you can point to and think, “I wish I would have done that differently” or “if only I had known then what I know now” that you can share with the readers? Please explain.

Anne:
Bob Dylan said, “People seldom do what they believe in. They do what is convenient, then repent.”

DERMASCOPE:
Why do you think people come to a particular spa/skin care clinic?

Anne:
People come to a particular spa/skin clinic for an experience and for service that focuses on them. In addition, they are looking for consistency.

DERMASCOPE:
What do you believe separates the best clinics from the rest?

Anne:
I believe the foundation for a successful clinic is a knowledgeable and well-trained staff. There also has to be cohesiveness among staff and how they educate clients. The products and services should all tell the same story, and the staff should support that story. There is nothing worse than a spa located in a medical complex, yet they sell handbags and jewelry. This confuses the public and the spa loses credibility.

DERMASCOPE:
Do you have a signature treatment that your clients love – a classic of sorts? What makes it so loved?

Anne:
Topical hydrotherapy is signature to the De La Terre Skincare® facial. Bathing the skin with herbal infusions energetically shifts clients into a state of deep relaxation. The aroma of the pure plant material reunites the client with nature, which provides a multitude of health benefits. Compression techniques seem subtle, however the pumping action activates lymphatic movement, thus preparing the living space of the skin to detoxify. The inhalation of the herbs is also highly therapeutic.

DERMASCOPE:
What adaptations have you made over the years to stay relevant in the treatment room?

Anne:
After three decades of practicing clinical skin care, I have gained a unique perspective of skin health and how our lifestyles had altered its resistance. I have seen many changes to the skin, but none as profound as we are currently going through. Skin conditions that were once defined as rare are now the new normal. The need to care for our skin with ingredients that are of nutritional purity is essential for our overall health and longevity. Many changes are necessary to the treatment room in order to stay relevant: Techniques and manipulations need to be altered, reduce the use of equipment, avoid synthetic ingredients, and reduce the duration of treatments.

DERMASCOPE:
Is there a particular moment or procedure where most aestheticians go wrong? What could they alter for a better result?

Anne:
I believe aestheticians need to develop their assessment skills and limit the extraction procedures. Aestheticians need to train their eye to view skin beyond oily, dry, and combination. If you cannot assess skin deficiencies or detect a compromised eco system, then all bets are off on the type of results you will achieve. Skin has changed, so must how we view it.
I see many aestheticians applying the extractions procedure to grade 2 and 3 acne. This will further rupture the follicle, creating additional inflammation and the spread of infection. It is becoming standard to apply skin peels to cystic acne. Skin peels on a cystic acne will on exacerbate the inflammatory condition and shrink skin tissue, thus confining debris.

DERMASCOPE:
As a manufacturer, is there a particular ingredient that you feel is a “super” ingredient? If so, why?

Anne:
Since my realm is green technology, it is all relatively super. Being able to stabilize non–synthetic ingredients is revolutionary. It is the wave of the future, but there are still many challenges that lie ahead. It is so exciting to be part of the revolution that will bring safe, synthetic-free products to our industry. Formulating with green technology is not only rewarding, but also takes super courage.

DERMASCOPE:
You wear so many hats: educator, researcher, consultant, aesthetician, spa owner, et cetera. What is your secret to keeping life in balance and enjoying the journey?

Anne:
Passion! Receiving testimonials that our products or training has changed and improved someone’s life. It is on those days that I am ready to throw in the hat that I receive an e-mail or call from someone with an amazing story. I conclude the conversation with a moment of humility and know I have been given the nudge needed to go on. I feel it is the most exciting time to be an aesthetician with endless possibilities. In addition, I would not be able to do what I do without the support of an amazing staff. Their dedication makes the journey a joy.

DERMASCOPE:
Do you or your company support any particular causes or charitable organizations? If so, who and why?

Anne:
De La Terre Skincare® supports two charitable organizations. Noah’s Ark and the Mederi Foundation.
Noah’s Ark is an animal rescue center in South Carolina. They contacted us early this year regarding a dog with a severe skin condition. De La Terre Skincare® is an amazing product, but I knew it would not phase this rare condition. I sent the products anyway only to receive a communication that Noah’s Ark started using our products on all their burn and trauma animals. They were getting amazing results. Now every time we manufacture Herb Rich Balm we donate several jars to Noah’s Ark. We are thrilled to offer a skin care product that goes beyond the complexion for healing.
Since De La Terre Skincare® offers cancer patients a safe way to address skin changes due to chemotherapy and radiation therapy, it was a natural to align ourselves with the Mederi Foundation. The Mederi Foundation is dedicated to research, education, and Holistic Healing for cancer patients. We are proud to have Donnie Yance, Mederi founder, on our medical advisory board.

DERMASCOPE:
What is the one piece of advice you give to every client you see?

Anne:
The advice I give every client is to engage in self-care! The body is longing for you to show you care. Engaging in a self-care regime tells your body that you honor it and it will respond by healing on many levels.



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By | January 16, 2019

Clients come to the spa for several reasons. Some come with specific skin care goals, while some come just to relax. Others come to receive treatments and purchase products made with luxurious, therapeutic, efficacious, and often rare ingredients that are not available in the mass market due to cost and other factors. Some of these ingredients are products of the latest, most cutting-edge innovations in modern aesthetics science and technology… and others are centuries-old natural botanical extracts and essential oils.

Roses Have Been Enjoyed and Revered for Centuries
Throughout history, the rose has been associated with love, pleasure, luxury and royalty — as well as with sacred traditions.
The Greek poetess Sappho crowned the rose as the "Queen of Flowers" in approximately 600 BCE.1 Roses have been involved in lavish festivals, royal weddings, and sacred rituals in many different cultures since then.
While rose and rose hips are consumed internally in the form of tea, they are most commonly used topically, either as rose water, perfume and rose (essential) oil, and rose hip seed oil. Rose water and rose potpourri are also used aromatherapeutically.
Rose essential oil, traditionally known as "attar of roses" or "otto of roses," was first discovered between 1882 and 16121 CE in Northern Persia. News of its magnificent aroma spread quickly, and by the end of the 17th century, large scale distillation and manufacturing of rose water and rose essential oil had commenced. Though the manufacturing of rose perfumes and waters began in the Middle East, it quickly spread throughout Asia Minor and Europe, most notably in France and Bulgaria.
Rose essential oil is extremely expensive to produce, even using modern steam distillation methods. The reason for this is that it takes an incredible amount of rose petals to produce the oil: one pound of rose essential oil requires approximately 10,000 pounds of rose petals! In today's world of laboratory-created bio-identical synthetic ingredients, one might wonder why companies do not simply use synthetic forms of rose essential oil. In fact, some companies do use synthetic "essence of rose" or "rose essence" in their products. While these ingredients are more affordable than authentic, natural rose essential oil, according to Rose Magazine2 they have no therapeutic properties at all.

Therapeutic Benefits of Rose
While rose is still best known for its aroma and its association with romance and royalty, it has several benefits to the skin, as well as to the internal systems of the body. Though there are thousands of different species of rose, only three have been identified as having high enough levels of therapeutic properties to make into rose waters and essential oil. They are Rosa Damascena, Rosa Centifolia, and Rosa Gallica. Bulgarian Rosa Damascena is considered to have the highest level of therapeutic properties for the skin, and is therefore preferable to the other species for use in skin care, despite its high price.
Aromatically, rose is known to soothe and relax the mind and the senses, and is great for stress relief. Rose can be applied topically via skin care preparations such as rose water or moisturizers with a few drops of rose essential oil added. Rose water and rose essential oil are wonderful for all types of skin. It is great to use as a toner and moisturizer for clients with sensitive and couperose skin due to its tonic and astringent effect on capillaries. It also has naturally occurring antiseptic, antibacterial, antiviral, and antifungal properties which can help improve acneic skin. Clients with acneic skin are accustomed to strong and often unpleasant-smelling skin care ingredients like tea tree oil and benzoyl peroxide — an acne treatment utilizing rose water and products with a couple of drops of added rose essential oil would be a welcome improvement! Rose essential oil may also provide favorable results for clients with eczema, dry skin, scarring, fine lines and wrinkles.

Refining and Rejuvenating Rose Mask
(for all skin types)

Ingredients:

  • 1 tablespoon of dry white kaolin clay
  • 1 teaspoon of powdered rose hips
  • 1 drop of Bulgarian rose essential oil
  • Rose water

Instructions:

  • Mix all dry ingredients in a small mixing bowl.
  • Add enough rose water to achieve the desired consistency (oilier, acneic skin might benefit from a thicker mask, while more sensitive types will benefit more from a thinner, heavy cream-like consistency).
  • Mix in one drop of Bulgarian rose essential oil.
  • Apply and allow to set for 10 to 15 minutes before removing.

The Advantages of Rose Hips
While the petals offer many benefits, the fruit of the rose (known as the rose hips), must not be ignored. Rose hip seed oil is rich in many nutrients that are known to benefit the skin including vitamins A, C (rose hips contain higher levels of vitamin C than citrus fruits), D, K, and E, as well as lycopene and other flavanoid antioxidants. It also contains citric and malic acids, as well as a high amount of the essential fatty acids linoleic and linolenic acids. It can be used as a carrier oil or alone as a powerful moisturizer.
While rose hip seed oil does not have as long a history as rose essential oil and rose water, studies in the 1980s3 have shown serious anti-inflammatory and anti-aging benefits on dry, scarred, sun-damaged, wrinkled, and prematurely aged skin after months of daily application. It is very hydrating, soothing and protective, and absorbs quickly into the skin without leaving a greasy or oily residue. However, unlike other "dry" oils like argan and jojoba, rose hip seed oil is not indicated for use on overly oily or acneic skin. These skin types will respond more favorably to rose water and non-comedogenic moisturizers with a few drops of rose essential oil added.
From a holistic perspective, clients with inflammatory conditions might also benefit from drinking tea made from rose petals rose hips. Recent research shows that internal inflammatory conditions in the cardiovascular and digestive systems often manifest on the skin as acne, rosacea, eczema and even psoriasis.
Rose hip tea is very helpful for the digestive system4 and can also help maintain a healthy balance of friendly gut microbiota, which can help increase the immune system and prevent Candidiasis. It is also very anti-inflammatory and detoxifying. which also benefits the skin from the inside out.
Rose hip products are much less expensive than other rose ingredients, allowing more clients to experience its properties.
While some forms of rose might be costly even at wholesale prices, others are very affordable and easily accessible. Rose potpourri in the treatment room, rose essential oil or water in the steamer, or rose hip seed oil-based skin care products on the retail shelf give spa treatments and the spa's ambience itself an elegant touch that clients love.

References:
Grieve, M. "Roses." A Modern Herbal. Botanical.com, n.d. Web. 20 Nov. 2012. <http://botanical.com/botanical/mgmh/r/roses-18.html>.
Grant, Andrea. "Therapeutic Benefits of Roses." Therapeutic Benefits of Roses - Rose Magazine. Rose Magazine Inc., n.d. Web. 20 Nov. 2012. <http://www.rosemagazine.com/pages/therapeutic.asp>.
"Organic Rosehip Seed Oil Profile." Mountain Rose Herbs. Mountain Rose Herbs, n.d. Web. 20 Nov. 2012.<http://www.mountainroseherbs.com/learn/oilprofile/rosehiporganic.php>.
Jewell, Dr. Susan. "Rose Tea Health Benefits." livestrong.com. Demand Media, Inc., 14 Mar. 2011. Web. 20 Nov. 2012. <http://www.livestrong.com/article/71165-rose-tea-health-benefits/>.

Rachael Pontillo is an AADP board-certified Holistic Health Practitioner, licensed aesthetician, writer, and entrepreneur. In addition to working with clients in individual and group coaching programs, she also teaches holistic skin care, nutrition and wellness classes in the Philadelphia area and has presented lectures at national conferences. She is the founder and author of the popular website and blog Holistically Haute™ at www.holisticallyhaute.com and is owner of the local skin care and wellness company Holistically Haute, LLC.



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By Amanda Strunk Miller | January 16, 2019

Within seconds of first meeting someone, we unconsciously judge the person. After forming the first impression, we normally do not go beyond it to look for any accuracy in our perception – unless it seems like a serious situation. While this is an innate characteristic in us all, how we prepare for our first impression with others can pave a road to a positive lasting impression.
First impressions are not just towards others. People will walk into a restaurant, house, spa, or even school and instantly have feelings – whether positive or negative. For example, spa owners are taught to keep the entrance to the spa neutral to accommodate both women and men. If a man walks into a frou-frou spa with pink everything, I think his first instinct is to turn and run.

But with cool neutral colors and simple spa menus they can understand, the male clientele can instantly appreciate the extra time spent for them. In the same sense, teenagers can walk into a treatment room and think it looks old and out of date. With decor that reminds a teenager of her grandmother, she can instantly consider a certain spa as something her mom would go to – not her friends.
And because teenagers are so self-conscious about their looks, first impressions matter immensely to them. Walking around their school halls being called pizza face is not music to the ears of a teenager with acne… and they very well could be searching for the right spa that understands and accepts them.
To an aesthetician, this means two things: First, the teenager will be apprehensive not only with the aesthetician, but with the spa, menu items, and the actual treatment. And all of this will be going on while also trying to make their best first impression to their new aesthetician. Keep in mind that a self-conscious young client will feel vulnerable and tense while exposing their flaws in the treatment room. It is the aesthetician’s responsibility to calm those nerves and comfort their worries. One could detail the steps of the treatment so they do not feel in the dark. Making conversations relatable will also assist in comforting them during this new experience.
Often times teenage clients need to be addressed differently than an adult client. Remember that the teenage client is there for professional guidance – not for gossip. More understandable lingo should be used during the treatment process and about products. And a reasonable at-home care routine needs to be established to fit their lifestyle. Take your time with this clientele as they are absorbing so much new
information. A positive first treatment with a teenager can provide a great foundation to a long-lasting relationship.
When working with teen skin, help them make their first impressions with others a more positive experience. Agree on a goal with the client during the first consultation. After finding their priorities, discuss a treatment plan to get them on track. Going through their makeup and skin care products should give you an idea of what to work with, as well as asking about their physical activity every day. This is key in developing rapport with your young client.
Teen clients are potential life-long clients. Start off on the right foot by making your first impression a positive, lasting one.

amanda-sig-maroon

 

 


Amanda Strunk Miller



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By Jeremy Lawrence | January 16, 2019

In the health and beauty industry, specific cares for eye moisturizing and treatment is not a ploy by cosmetic companies to try and sell you more product and gouge your pocket-book. In some instances, depending on the product's active ingredient profile and stated package claims, some may not be as effective as others. Eye area treatments are developed for a reason and they should be cared for in a specific manner, depending on the results you want to accomplish; keeping in mind the client's age, sensitivity and appearance that may include puffy eyes, milia (small white lumps) or dark circles.

Likewise the treatments you provide for the client should vary depending on what is required, such as reduction of crow's feet, addressing puffy eyes and dark circles, skin sensitivity, and age.
If we examine the physiology of the skin around the orbital area of the eye compared to the skin on our face, neck, chest and décolleté, we note that it is more fragile, more susceptible to dryness and wrinkles, can irritate easily, and has fewer sebaceous or sweat glands. The physiology of the area under the eye has three epidermal layers: epidermis, dermis and subcutaneous layer. Above the eye (lid and brow bone area), there are two layers; the epidermis and dermis. The particularly sensitive eye area requires moisturizing with emollients and hydrating with humectants.
Of a particular note, as we age our eye area shows the signs more readily with crow's feet, sagging or drooping under the eye (bags), collagen degradation, a reduction in elasticity, dark circles, and puffiness. General moisturizers can be used, however it is not recommended for particular conditions and specific treatments depending on the concerns and relevant active ingredients. Moreover, most professionals, doctors and aestheticians would recommend a specific eye care as early as the mid-20s for preventative measure.
There are a variety of products and specific cares on the market, as well as intervention both surgical and nonsurgical. Alternatives include products with Argirelene, SNAP-8 (5%) to combat crow's feet, peptides to support proteins, vitamins A and E, and the use of sunscreens. Some may contain toxins, others are natural, and some are a combination of various active and non-active ingredients. The key to more youthful skin and to rectify specific hydration needs, reduce puffy eyes, dark circles, and other eye area concerns is to seek products for professional use and retail sales that are proven effective (for instance, deliver results, are poison free, and do not kill animals).
The sensitivity of the eye, the possibility of milia, and the unusual dry wrinkles that tend to appear as we age can be addressed and rectified with active ingredients in eye products that contain vitamins A, C, E and K. In addition, eye products packed with powerful peptides such as Argireline, SNAP-8, Matrixyl 3000 (Palmitoyl Pnetapeptide-3), Haloxyl, Regu-Age, SYN-COLL, Kollaren, as well as intense antioxidants.
There are several eye products available in gel, serum and cream format. By definition, a gel is mostly liquid and is an alternative. They are thicker than and as concentrated as a serum so it does not require all the ingredients that a cream has to function properly. They are just as effective as a serum and lighter in feel, allowing them to stay in place, whereas creams tend to travel and get into the eye. Most serums have a high concentration of water, depending on the manufacturer, while others boast high concentrations of active ingredients or they do not contain any water or fillers.A serum is more intensive and typically used between cleansing and prior to a moisturizer developed to combat dryness. Gels generally add moisture, which is essential for the eye area.
Whether it be a gel, serum or cream,the terms are mostly used for marketing purposes, but with new technology they can act differently. A gel can be as hydrating as a cream and a serum can also be moisturizing, however not like a cream – depending on the formulation. Gels are also serums but formulated with a thicker consistency to lock in moisture, allowing them to hydrate the skin more than that of a serum. In addition, gels can have conditioners in them; however, just like a moisturizer, gels lack oils, multiple emollients, and no ion stabilizers. Gels and serums can be more pure than a cream, but also a cream can be more moisturizing than a gel due to the multiple conditioners that must be used in a cream to make it function properly. Generally, the term moisturizer tends to imply further hydration, while the terms serum and gel tends to imply more intense, active ingredients. Therefore, it is dependent on formulation, age, and what you want to achieve. Some people, depending on age, require both a serum and a moisturizing cream. These formats tend to be used interchangeably and it is best to use products that have specific active ingredients that combat eye area concerns, such as wrinkles, lines, puffiness and dark circles.
Ingredient profile and efficacy are the most essential parameters to consider when discussing eye products. In general care, the ingredients to avoid are toxins, suspected and known carcinogens, parabens, sulphites, fillers, high concentration of retinol that could irritate sensitive skin, fragrance, and other harmful ingredients, especially when applying constantly once or twice daily. Please note that petroleum by-products, including mineral oil, should never be used around eyes – so check the ingredient list carefully.
There is an incredible amount of eye treatment alternatives on the market, from cosmeceuticals to cosmetic type brands, whether organic, natural, peptide-based, vegan, plant and fruit derivatives, as well as injections, and cosmetic device treatments. The key is to focus on the efficacy, safety, and ingredient profile to ensure that those specific cell nourishing and essential vitamin components are within the product monograph, in addition to the appropriate concentration and clinical data being available for all skin types.
So, in brief, the use of a specific product is recommended for the eye area. Furthermore, it is imperative to educate your customer on the reasons why these products will ultimately benefit them – prevention and management.

 

Christine-PembertonChristine Pemberton has over 23 years of experience in entrepreneurial ventures, as well as traditional corporate responsibilities within the health and wellness industry. She is currently International sales director for Skin 2 Skin Care and founder of Maia International Inc., a consulting company that assists companies/spas and medical spas in business development, sales, marketing, branding, market presence, public relations, Go-to-Market strategies, tactical planning, regulatory and brand positioning. Maia International also governs over distribution and agency roles to assist in global distribution, multi-channel messaging and presence.

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By Kimberly Czelusniak | January 16, 2019

Volunteering allows you to connect on a personal level with others in your community, creating and strengthening your ties with the local population. Volunteering can be quite rewarding on both a personal and professional level. You will have the opportunity to meet new people and build new relationships. Not to mention volunteering looks great on your resume! Here is a list of 10 things to consider when choosing the right volunteer opportunity for you.

  1.  Find the right opportunity for you. A good fit is essential to an overall positive experience. Do you prefer to work in groups or independently? Are you best behind the scenes or in a more visible role? How much responsibility are you prepared to take on? What skills can you contribute? What causes are important to you? Asking yourself these questions can make it easier to find the perfect volunteer opportunity that fits your lifestyle.right-opportunity
  2. Are you going to volunteer alone or with a group? Make it a team building exercise! Volunteering together can create a tight bond with co-workers. Make team t-shirts and work together to better the community your business serves. Not only do you get to contribute to improving your community, but you will get to know your colleagues outside of work.
  3. Compare short-term versus long-term volunteer opportunities. Some volunteer positions require a six- to 12-month commitment and may entail a background check, drug screening and/or health screening and will provide you with mandatory training before you start. This is generally required with domestic violence services, suicide hotlines and teen pregnancy help lines. On the flip side, there are also great volunteer opportunities that will only require two hours and a great attitude. These are generally sponsored through community-based groups and information can be located at your town hall or through an Internet search.
  4. time-relationshipVolunteering is image building. Bear in mind, how you present yourself in your volunteer work should be the same way you present yourself at your place of employment. Being punctual, reliable and professional are
    vital! Being in a service related sector you are always branding yourself and your business when you interact with the public. Be sure to make a great impression.
  5. Determine how many hours a week you can comfortably give to a cause before you speak to the event organizer. The list of volunteers may be short so it is not uncommon for more to be asked of you once you sign up. Do not commit to additional hours if you cannot comfortably fit it into your lifestyle. You are doing a great thing! Do not feel pressured to volunteer for more than your schedule can handle. Make sure you research the commitments that are expected of you in the given opportunity you are considering. Do not be afraid to ask questions!
  6. Volunteering increases your social skills. By personally connecting with others you are further practicing and refining your social skills. Working together to achieve a common goal requires effective communication and the ability to play well with others. These skills can easily translate into both your personal and professional life, bringing further personal enrichment.
  7. Volunteering builds relationships. By working next to others in your community you will build a network of local people. Volunteering in the area you live and work can heighten your presence in the community and bring awareness to your spa and your services. Conversations amongst strangers usually start with “So... what do you do for work?” I recommend taking business cards with you when working a large community group project.
  8. Volunteering increases self-esteem and fights depression. Feeling a little down? Volunteering can boost your feel good chemicals! Helping others is very self-fulfilling and getting out in your community and connecting with others is a great mood booster! Many skin care professionals are nurturing; it comes naturally to give of ourselves. With volunteering you get back a profound sense of purpose and well-being. These things
    are priceless!great-for-buisness
  9. Volunteering can be great for business! Aestheticians are natural healers! Once people hear what you do for work they will surely ask you all about it. Word of mouth is the most powerful form of advertising you can never buy.
  10. Not sure where to start? The “Look Good… Feel Better”  programs are a well known volunteer program for skin care professionals as they are able to use their existing skill set to help people suffering the effects of cancer and medications. Contact your local hospital for details on their program. Some additional places to look for opportunities are: senior centers, rotary clubs, places of worship, and your city’s town hall.

Volunteering is rewarding and fulfilling on many levels. You will come away from your experience with a broader understanding of your community, the people in it and yourself. No matter how big or small your contribution, your time is a precious gift and using it to help others is a great choice!

Kimberly Czelusniak is a licensed aesthetician, makeup artist, beauty blogger, business development consultant and entrepreneur. With over 20 years of experience as a business development consultant to spas and physicians Czelusniak has educated and mentored thousands of skin care specialist and has presented on medical aesthetics at regional and national conferences. She is the founder and author of the new to launch website www.skincareguruforyou.com an informational website for consumers to get real, honest, expert advice and vital information regarding their skin care choices.



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By Jeremy Lawrence | January 16, 2019

The reasons people seek out tattoo removal are as unique as each person is. From a former gang member who wants to start a new life to a heartbroken ex who needs to get rid of the constant reminder of a former flame, the stories behind tattoos are endless. I have been performing laser tattoo removal and teaching others to perform the procedure since 2005 – removing or fading nearly 40,000 tattoos during that time. Tattoo removal is my passion, and I have seen first-hand how it can change people’s lives.

While most tattoos are no longer considered rebellious or extreme in today’s world, some people would still prefer to have a clean slate. In fact, survey results presented at an American Academy of Dermatology meeting earlier this year showed that 31 percent of tattooed people had some regret about their body art.1 Many times this regret stems from a change in mindset from the time the person got the tattoo (usually late teens or early 20s) to concerns about the tattoo having a negative effect in the workplace.
While we like to say, “Don’t judge a book by its cover,” that may not happen in real life. Recent research shows tattoos are something that employers take into consideration when looking at job applicants. When given the statement, “The best way to not get hired for a job is to exhibit one of the following qualities related to appearance,” nearly 61 percent of Human Resources managers surveyed by The Center for Professional Excellence at York College of Pennsylvania listed visible tattoos as a means for not hiring a potential employee.
image-oneEven so, not every person who seeks tattoo removal wants to remove all traces of artwork. Tattoo lovers also make up a big part of the tattoo removal market. Sometimes they run out of body parts to tattoo and maybe they want to remove several small tattoos to replace them with a large portrait. I see many clients who love tattoos so much, they want to get rid of the old ones so they can get new ones!

The Process of Tattooing

To understand tattoo removal, it is important to know how tattoos are created. Most professional tattoos are done with a mechanical needle that moves up and down in order to inject the desired ink pigment and stain the skin at the dermal level. The cells in the dermis are more stable than the epidermis, allowing the pigment to stay in place (if left uninterrupted).
Tattooing is regulated by state and local agencies – not the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA); however, the FDA may get involved in regulation soon. The federal agency has received reports of irritation, infection and allergic reactions following some tattoo procedures, and they are investigating the common pigments used for tattooing. Another important fact to point out is that while tattoos have been around for centuries, the FDA has not approved any tattoo pigments for skin injection.
Tattoo parlors are not the only place people are being inked, and not all tattoos are done by professionals. Some tattoos you see may also be a result of amateur tattooing using India ink (a black indelible drawing ink) and a needle. There are also prison tattoos, which are done illegally behind bars. These tattoos are made with any number of improvised needles and pigments including paper clips and pen ink.

Tattoo Removal Options

To remove or fade unwanted tattoos, there are several options for the professional and even the consumer:


Faux-Removal – If your client is not 100 percent sure they want to remove their tattoo, you can suggest a number of tattoo cover-up creams or theatrical makeup options that can give them an idea of what they would look like without the ink. These creams are different from the traditional cover-up products you would typically find in the makeup aisle at the drug store. If your client likes the bare skin look, they should probably consider one of the permanent tattoo removal options.
Salabrasion – This method of tattoo removal has been around the longest. Salabrasion is a process of rubbing the tattooed area with salt and a wet gauze pad to remove layers of skin. Some people attempt this procedure at home, and as you can imagine, it is extremely painful. There is also the risk of scarring and infection. Additionally, this procedure may require a few days of downtime as the wound heals. Salabrasion typically needs to be performed multiple times to get significant results and there is no guarantee of full removal.
Dermabrasion – Dermabrasion is another tattoo removal procedure where skin layers are removed using a specialized tool similar to a sander or a metal wire (depending on the device). Oftentimes, the skin will be numbed using ice or a local anesthetic before starting the process. As layers of skin are being scraped off, there is the possibility of infection and scarring, and the tattoo may never fully fade. Additionally, dermabrasion will likely need to be repeated several times to achieve optimal fading, and there may be some downtime depending on the severity of the wound.
Surgery – Surgical excision and skin grafting are options for tattoo removal. For the excision procedure, a surgeon will remove the epidermis and dermis layers and stitch the area to enable the wound to close and heal. This procedure can cause scarring and it is best suited for smaller tattoos. To excise a large tattoo, several surgeries may be required.
Skin grafting is another surgical method that is used for tattoo removal. This procedure involves taking a piece of skin from another part of the body and sewing it over the tattoo. As the wound heals, the skin grows in conjunction with the natural skin. Skin grafting is often the most expensive procedure and requires the most downtime.
What about creams? I have never seen a cream, lotion or ointment that has been able to fade a tattoo – and neither has the FDA. The FDA has not approved any of these do-it-yourself treatments and has no clinical evidence that they work. The FDA also cautions that these items may cause unexpected reactions including rashes, burns, scars or irregular pigmentation.
before-after

Laser Tattoo Removal

Laser tattoo removal has become the gold standard for tattoo removal. It is the most commonly used treatment because it offers a low risk, highly effective treatment with minimal side effects. Laser tattoo removal works with a technique called explosive heating, which is done with a Q-switched laser. (A Q-switched laser is one where you can switch the “quality” of a resonator to produce millions of watts in nanosecond bursts.) This highly concentrated pulsing light is able to target pigment in the dermis. The light breaks up the tattoo pigment within the skin and splits it into tiny fragments that are flushed out through the body’s lymphatic system.
There are three types of Q-switched lasers: The Q-switched ruby laser, Q-switched alexandrite laser, and the Q-switched Nd:YAG laser. Each laser emits different wavelengths that work best for different tattoo pigment colors.
Q-Switched Ruby Laser – The ruby laser emits a wavelength of 694 nanometers, penetrating the skin by approximately one millimeter. The colors that are most responsive to the ruby laser are black, blue and green. Note: This laser does not work well on darker skin tones.
Q-Switched Alexandrite Laser – The alexandrite laser penetrates the skin more deeply than the ruby laser. Similar to the ruby, this laser also works best with black, blue and green ink. It emits a wavelength of 755 nanometers.
Q-Switched Nd:YAG Laser – The longest wavelength is emitted by this laser. The Nd:YAG laser has become the most widely used in laser tattoo removal today. While the 1064 nanometer wavelength is limited in its color range (it only works with black and dark blue), this laser includes a feature that allows the machine to also emit a wavelength of 532 nanometers. The shorter wavelength enables the same machine to treat red, yellow and orange tattoo pigments in a safe and effective manner.
Image-twoAs for the question of how long tattoo removal takes, it depends on whether you are talking about the treatment session itself or the full treatment regimen. The process of laser tattoo removal is quick. Depending on the size of the tattoo, a session can be over in a matter of seconds. However, clients must commit to a series of visits over several months to achieve the best results. Typically, the average client will need anywhere from 12 to 15 laser tattoo removal treatments to achieve significant fading or total removal, but each individual case is different. The success of the process can depend on several factors including a person’s body chemistry, overall health, the tattoo’s size and location, and the color of the ink pigments. Some people will be able to achieve full removal, while others may only receive partial fading. There is no way to guarantee 100 percent removal before starting the treatment regimen.
As for the pain involved, some clients report that the laser pulses feel like a hot rubber band snapping against their skin. Most people who have sat through the tattoo process can tolerate the laser removal process as well, but different clients have different pain thresholds. If you have a client who is not comfortable with the pain level, a topical anesthetic can be applied 30 minutes prior to treatment.
Even though the risk of side effects is low, make sure to give your clients post-care instructions to minimize any potential complications between treatments. Unlike the previous procedures mentioned in this article, the risk of scarring using a Q-Switched laser is very low – less than five percent.

Learning Laser Tattoo Removal

In most states, you do not need to be a medical professional to perform laser tattoo removal. With the proper training, anyone can learn to perform this procedure regardless of his or her previous professional experience. The industry standard for laser tattoo removal education is a course that includes classroom instruction and at least two days of hands-on training. If you would also like to learn other cosmetic laser modalities, such as laser hair removal, laser wrinkle reduction and laser vein reduction, a two-week course is typically the standard. Depending on where you live, certain hours of laser education may be required to perform these procedures – be sure to check with a national school that provides cosmetic laser training to learn about the rules and regulations where you live.

References
1 Medpage Today.

Shelley CookShelley Cook is a clinical laser instructor and tattoo removal specialist at National Laser Institute school of medical aesthetics. On a monthly basis, she teaches aestheticians, medical professionals and others how to perform safe and effective laser tattoo removal treatments.

 



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By Jeremy Lawrence | January 16, 2019

Aestheticians play a significant role in helping their clients remember the importance of prioritizing self-care. While self-care most certainly refers to relaxing spa treatments and taking time at home for a high quality at-home skin care regimen, the true meaning of self-care goes beyond that. My definition of self-care encompasses the care of one’s whole self – not only the physical self, but also the mental, emotional and creative aspects of the self. When all of these aspects of the self are well tended to, one is much more likely to approach each day with a more positive outlook. More importantly, one will also have the ability to more effectively care for others and tend to responsibilities without feeling drained.

Human Beings Need to Create

While we may not all possess the ability to paint the Mona Lisa, compose like Mozart, cook like Julia Child, or write like Hemingway, every human being is born with a special talent. Some people are able to find and learn to express their talents early on while others might discover them later in life.
We are all creative beings, and creative beings need to create as much as we need to eat, breathe and sleep. Creativity has a different meaning for different people and unfortunately, due to many factors (one’s upbringing, religion, busy schedule, et cetera), that creativity is often stifled. Its importance is not valued as much as it should be, which can have a powerful effect on one’s overall ability to achieve true happiness and success in life. If we stifle our creativity or discount its importance, we create blockages in other aspects of life, which can hinder our ability to move forward in different areas like health, work and personal relationships.

Hobbies are a Great Way to Discover Hidden Talents

No matter how busy one’s schedule is, it is very important to schedule time for self-care, specifically for expressing creativity. Trying out different hobbies is a great way to explore one’s creativity because it can be very enjoyable. Some people find one hobby and fall in love with it so much it becomes their passion. For example, I love to play with natural ingredients and blend essential oils. Making all-natural, organic skin care products and teaching the recipes in my community workshops is one of my passions. Some people prefer to try different hobbies for shorter periods of time, or change them up each season to stay interested and keep trying
different things.
One great thing about hobbies is that there are no set rules. Each person gets to decide how often they want to do it and whether they want to stick with it for a long time or move on to something else after trying it for a few weeks or months.

Hobbies Can Be Enjoyed Alone or Socially

Another valuable aspect of hobbies is that one can enjoy them quietly when enjoying some downtime alone, or as a way to become involved with a community. Book clubs, art or cooking classes, writers’ workshops, knitting circles, gardening clubs – nearly every type of hobby presents an opportunity to meet with other likeminded individuals and build relationships. This could be beneficial on both a personal and professional level.
In any business, especially the salon and spa business, teamwork is vital to success. Hobbies can be a great way to create a community among co-workers either in or outside of the spa. Sometimes if co-workers are not getting along, having them participate in a seemingly non-work related hobby, where all participants are novices, can be great for creating common ground.
Oftentimes, the simple act of providing an opportunity for a person to find and express his or her own inherent creative talents produces significant positive changes. When people experience something as simple and profound as creating something beautiful from seemingly nothing, they begin to view the world – and daily environments – in a fresh, new way.



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By Jeremy Lawrence | January 16, 2019

Some ingredients are must-haves for the morning, while others should never see the light of day. Finding the right order for your skin care regimens will reap the maximum benefit of actives while reducing unwanted side effects.
For most beauty junkies, finding the right sequence of products and knowing which ingredients are best for the morning or evening application presents a challenge. Do you apply the serum before or after the moisturizer? Does retinol work as an all-day anti-aging ingredient, and when should you apply alpha hydroxy acids?
These general guidelines should help provide order to the many skin care options available for your morning and evening regimens.

 

Make a Daily Habit of Sunscreens and Antioxidants

With the majority of signs of premature aging resulting from sun damage, it is imperative that clients incorporate a broad-spectrum sunscreen into their daily regimen. Research shows that UVA rays can penetrate glass and slowly age skin unbeknownst to the office worker sitting in a boardroom or corner office all day. A study published in Clinical Interventions in Aging demonstrates that women and men exhibited more signs of aging on the side of their face that was regularly exposed to an office window.
Follow the FDA guidelines and use a broad-spectrum sunscreen that filters both UVA and UVB rays with a minimum SPF rating of 15. Anything over 30 provides negligible incremental benefits, but a SPF 50 may be in order for all-day outdoor activity, especially on fair skin types. Make sure clients know to reapply every two hours and use a water-resistant formula if they are going to be sweating or swimming.
Antioxidant protection can also help defend skin against daily aggressors like smoke, industrial pollution, and other environmental elements that prematurely age the skin. Studies have shown that vitamins C and E at significant levels work synergistically with sunscreen to boost its protection.
In the mid-90s, a team of researchers reported in the journal Acta Derm Venereol the photoprotective effects of both vitamins C and E. Vitamin C conferred more protection against UVA, while vitamin E protected primarily against UVB. When vitamin C or a combination of C and E was formulated with a commercial UVA sunscreen, the results were compounded. These results confirm the usefulness of combining antioxidants with sunscreens for maximum hotoprotection.
While vitamin C works great as a daytime booster to sunscreens, you will want to avoid exposing the packaged product directly to light, which oxidizes L-ascorbic acid and will turn it brown. Oil-soluble forms of vitamin C, like tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, offer alternative choices.

sequenceThe Sequence of Skin Care

Cleanse – Regardless of skin type, every skin care regimen should begin with a thorough cleansing in the morning and evening. Oily skin types can benefit from a formulation that destroys the P. acnes bacteria that leads to breakouts, while dry skin types can use richer, more emollient, milk- or cream-based cleansers to start the day.
Cleansing twice a day is recommended; during each trip to the sink or shower: once to remove makeup and a second time to achieve a much deeper cleanse. By removing the deeper embedded dirt, oil and debris within the skin, you will enhance the penetration of other actives to follow in the skin care regimen.
Exfoliate – After cleansing, it is a great time to introduce a chemical or mechanical exfoliation. It is important that clients avoid over-exfoliating their skin, which can abrade the skin’s delicate fabric. Instead, limit the scrubbing or light peels to once a week or, at most, three times a week for oily skin types. Ideally, it should be done at night to avoid leaving the skin raw and exposed to the elements during the day.
Apply a Mask – Typically used as a weekly application, a mask can boost your other skin care products by treating dryness, breakouts, or fine lines and wrinkles. These intense, targeted treatments work best on freshly exfoliated skin before the toner.
Tone – Toners can provide several different functions. Some are designed to remove product residue after cleansing, while others are more focused on restoring the skin’s pH. A pH-restoring toner can also help keep the skin hydrated and enhance penetration of other ingredients with a smaller molecular composition. For example, the water content in a light misting toner can help the water-loving humectants in a hyaluronic acid-based serum pull the actives deep into the dermis for optimum absorption.
Eye Cream – Before the skin has a chance to dry, apply an eye cream to the skin while it is still slightly damp. Again, this will help the water draw any of the actives deep into the skin for maximum benefit.
Apply RX Treatments or Serum – Now would be a good opportunity to introduce any prescribed topical treatments to the skin, when it is free of dirt and debris and is more receptive to the actives. If there are no prescription products in the regimen, apply a serum in its place. A good serum will often feature a high concentration of ingredients coupled with a delivery system to enhance penetration. They may confer anti-aging benefits, hydrate the skin or perform a specialized function, such as whitening/brightening. A gel formulation with a small molecular structure will absorb faster and easier into the skin if it is not blocked by a heavier moisture barrier. Therefore, it is best to follow your serum application with a moisturizer and/or sunscreen where applicable.
Apply Moisturizer – Moisturizers can benefit all skin types, from oily skin types who need lightweight hydration to dryer skin types who need constant replenishment. Think of your moisturizers and sunscreen as the guardians of the skin, presenting a last defense against the elements.
Primer – Some women incorporate a primer in addition to the above steps. This should be the last application before makeup to fill in lines, hide enlarged pores or even out the skin tone. A good primer will set the canvas for an all-day makeup application.

"By following the proper sequencing of products in a well-devised day and evening regimen, clients will see greater return on their total skin care investment."

Evening Regimens for Nightly Repair and Rejuvenation

RetinolGet active with cleansers at night. Cleansers with more active ingredients may be best suited for nighttime use. Using a high percentage glycolic acid cleanser at night, for instance, gives the skin time to reduce any redness overnight while optimizing the body’s natural rejuvenation process during the evening hours.
Just as antioxidants make great daytime ingredients to help the skin defend against the sun, alpha hydroxyl acids, like glycolic acid, generally perform best at night when they enhance turnover of the skin cell’s natural rejuvenation. The extra hours afforded by the body’s circadian clock give the skin time to recuperate before the skin faces the light of day again.
Give retinol a rest during the day. Retinol, a derivative of vitamin A, has long been known as the gold standard of anti-aging skin care for its ability to regulate the differentiation of skin cells, increase cell turnover, reverse sun damage and treat signs of aging, including fine lines and wrinkles, pigmentation, texture and (to a certain extent) collagen production. As with all retinoids, retinol works best at night when the body is actively repairing and renewing the skin’s cells.
Previously, this anti-aging ingredient was found solely in night creams and serums, but it is becoming increasingly common to find retinol in cleansers and even foundations and sunscreens. However, according to Debra Jaliman, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist with a private practice in New York City and a spokesperson for the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD), this may not be a good idea. She cautions against using products that combine both an SPF and retinol in their ingredients listing.
Retinol can leave the skin thin, delicate and exposed to the sun’s rays, which will lead to further irritation and sun sensitivity if worn during the day. While known as a key anti-aging ingredient, retinol can actually have the opposite effect and make skin age faster due to this increased vulnerability to the sun, according to Jaliman. Clients using retinol at night should take care to wear protective clothing, limit sun exposure, and diligently apply sunscreen throughout the day to avoid side effects.
Retinol is not the only retinoid that can present potential problems when used during the day. According to the Environmental Working Group (EWG), formulations with retinyl palmitate, a combination of retinol and palmitic acid, may actually encourage potentially cancer-causing skin cells. Concerns arose following a 2009 animal study by the National Toxicology Program (NTP), in which researchers subjected hairless mice to stimulated UV rays in the morning for five days a week for 40 weeks. The mice either received a control cream containing 0.001 percent retinoic acid or 0.1, 0.5, one or two percent retinyl palmitate in the afternoon of the days they were exposed to the light. While the retinoic acid enhanced the photocarcinogenic activity of UVB rays in the mice and increased skin lesions, the retinyl palmitate had the same effects but also increased the presence of squamous cell neoplasms, marking the beginning of skin cancer.
Yet, despite the EWG’s recommendations, retinyl palmitate remains a controversial debate. An independent analysis published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology found there was no evidence that retinyl palmitate in sunscreens is cancer-causing, arguing that the clinical findings do not necessarily represent realistic, real-world activity. In addition, AAD dermatologists noted that by nature mice are highly susceptible to the effects of UV radiation even in the absence of retinyl palmitate.The Skin Cancer Foundation also found similar conclusions, noting that the evidence did not support the claims that the ingredient is a photocarcinogen.
Because retinol and other vitamin A derivatives are particularly vulnerable to light and air, formulators must take extra care to prepare retinol products under special yellow lights and a nitrogen blanket to protect it against the degrading effects of light and air. Look for products that are properly formulated and packaged in airless pumps or opaque, multi-layered aluminum tubes with tight-fitting caps. Lastly, clients who are on a nightly retinol regimen should take extra precaution to protect their skin with a broad-spectrum sunscreen during the day. Retinol can make the skin’s epidermis thinner and more sensitive to the sun.

"Clients using retinol at night should take care to wear protective clothing, limit sun exposure and diligently apply sunscreen throughout the day to avoid side effects."

Take cover with hydroquinone. It is another nocturnal favorite long favored by dermatologists for its whitening benefits. Hydroquinone inhibits the skin from making the enzyme responsible for converting dopa to melanin and can potentially diminish melasma at high enough concentrations.
Yet, just like retinol, hydroquinone does not always play well in the light of day. Research shows that excess use of this ingredient, combined with sun exposure, can cause adverse reactions in the skin. According to a report published on Medscape, efficacy is proportionate to concentration, as is the incidence of adverse effects. All concentrations can lead to skin irritation, phototoxic reactions with secondary post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and irreversible exogenous ochronosis, characterized by blue or brownish dark pigmentations.
The fact that hydroquinone is also commonly combined with retinoids is yet another reason to stay out of the sun when using this ingredient.
Reserve the benzoyl peroxide for the evening regimen. Acne patients using benzoyl peroxide 2.5 percent or clindamycin phosphate 1.2 percent will want to minimize their exposure to sunlight while using these topical drugs. Extra care should be taken to wear protective clothing and use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with a SPF rating of 15 or higher. The FDA recently reclassified benzoyl peroxide in light of findings that the acne medication can decrease the skin’s tolerance to UV radiation, thus increasing sunburn after repeated applications. Manufacturers are now required to add a warning on their labels which states, “If going outside, apply sunscreen after using this product.”

As a general rule, it is best to avoid introducing too many products too soon when dispensing morning and evening regimens. Ask your client, “If there is one thing you would like to change about your skin, what would it be?” Provide examples like acne, lines and wrinkles or pigmentation. Then, develop day and night regimens that focus on treating that chief concern in a safe and properly sequenced order.


sam.dhattSam Dhatt was born and raised in India. He achieved his masters in Chemistry and an M.B.A in Marketing and Finance. Dhatt’s introduction as a leader in innovative technology begins with his work in 1992 with alpha hydroxy acids, which was in its infancy at the time. Then in 1995, he started his own cosmetics research and development company, Allure Cosmetics, Inc. In addition, Allure Cosmetics, Inc. also supplies hair care, foot care, spa products, cosmetic accessories and makeup to their 700 clients worldwide. In 1999, Dhatt opened another company, DermaQuest® Skin Therapy.



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