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Drugs and Their Effects on the Skin

Written by Erin Madigan-Fleck, N.M.D., C.N.H.P., L.M.C.
Drugs and Their Effects on the Skin

A study published by the Journal of the American Medical Association concluded that the prevalence of prescription drug use in America among people 20 years of age and older had risen to 59 percent in 2012 from 51 percent just 12 years earlier. During the same period, the percentage of people taking five or more prescription drugs nearly doubled from eight to 15 percent.1 Another study cites the United States as consuming 75 percent of the world's prescription drugs.2

The Random Causes of Aging Featured

Written by Jamina Metcalf, L.E. national educator for Skin Fitness Therapy
The Random Causes of Aging

To be young! We are all in a fight against aging. Not so much for our vanity either, but for our overall health as well. We constantly hear about ways to stay young: eat right, exercise, stay out of the sun, take care of our skin, etc. But there are some random things that cause aging that we may not be fully aware of!

When Acne Leads to Skin Discoloration

There is no doubt that acne can be extremely stressful for clients. However unsightly a breakout may be, clients look forward to the future because they know that the unsightly blemishes will not last forever; that is until they realize that once the blemishes heal, they sometimes have to deal with unsightly dark spots. They often cannot help but wonder what is really going on.

Exfoliate, Exfoliate, Exfoliate: Benefits of Chemical Exfoliants  and Their Effects on the Skin

Exfoliation for skin health and rejuvenation is as old as the quest for beauty itself. Ancient Egyptians and Greeks discovered the benefits of exfoliation centuries ago, utilizing elements like alabaster, oils, and salt.

Cleopatra bathed in milk as a mainstay of her beauty regimen. She may not have understood the science behind it, but she was taking advantage of milk's lactic acid, an alpha hydroxy acid that digests protein, thereby removing the top layer of dead skin and stimulating cell renewal.

10 Things About...Sensitized Skin

Written by Patricia Faley
10 Things About...Sensitized Skin

Skin sensitivity is on the rise. In fact, it is estimated that up to half of the world's population perceive their skin to be sensitive. It is important, however, to note that there is a marked difference between skin that is genetically sensitive and skin that has been affected by internal or external factors that can accelerate nerve responses and increase permeability of the stratumcorneum, resulting in the skin becoming sensitized.

Chemical Exfoliation and Precautions  for Ethnic Skin

As the population grows increasingly multicultural, skin care professionals will be challenged with the task of recognizing how dark skin differs from light skin, what is normal versus problematic, and which treatments have the highest efficacy and lowest potential for complications for individuals with multiethnic origins.

By the year 2065, more than half the population of the United States will be either African American, Hispanic American, Asian American, or Native American. In light of this information, it is important to consider the special traits of ethnic skin and the preferable exfoliation methods to properly care for it.

Catering to a Male Clientele Featured

Written by Kathryn Leverette, L.E., nationally certified aesthetic specialist
Catering to  a Male Clientele

Catering to male clients can be easy once the skin care professional gets them through the door. It can be difficult for professionals to get the average guy to navigate through an estrogen-driven retail area; into a maze of hair, nail, and pedicure stations; past a sea of female faces; and down the hall to a treatment room. It is often much easier for the professional who has a side door or works in a clinical setting.

 

Hyperpigmentation Disorders and Treatment Options

The skin is a multifaceted, active organ that has many important functions to the overall health of our inner bodies. The protective functions utilize three systems: The stratumcorneum barrier, immunity and providing pigment to give protection from harmful radiation, including sun exposure particularly by the ultraviolet light (UVL) spectrum. UVL is the culprit that induces visible, extrinsic skin aging (photoaging), as well as most types of skin cancer.

Hyperpigmentation Explained: Understanding Hyperpigmentation and How to Professionally Address the Common Skin Concern

Many clients notice every dark spot on their face. In fact, most skin care professionals would, more than likely, state that hyperpigmentation is a concern on par with aging and
wrinkles and affects clients from every ethnic group. While many clients often feel as if their spots appeared out of nowhere, the truth is that their hyperpigmentation has probably been brewing for decades.

 

An Introduction to Hyperpigmentation

Hyperpigmentation, which is caused by an increase in the skin's melanin content, is one of the most common skin concerns seen by skin care professionals. This condition is most often caused by sun exposure; inflammation; hormonal changes, such as pregnancy; certain medical conditions, like Addison's disease; and various drugs, such as certain antibiotics.

Infinite Treasures: Highlights in Aesthetic History

Written by Erin Madigan-Fleck, N.M.D., C.N.H.P., L.M.C.
Infinite Treasures: Highlights in Aesthetic History

The topic of aesthetics and skin in general is well chronicled throughout industry textbooks, blogs, fashion magazines, videos, and more. The history surrounding beauty dates back to 10,000 B.C.E.; some of the original components from ancient formulas, such as olive oil, lavender, and chamomile, are still popular today.

A Step-by-Step: Dark Spot Correcting Treatment

Written by Katherine Tomasso, L.E., C.M.T.
A Step-by-Step: Dark Spot Correcting Treatment

Hyperpigmentation is one of the most common skin conditions and often one of the most difficult to correct. Having and setting proper expectations and expressing the importance of consistency with professional treatments and a homecare regimen is the key to successfully treating dark spots and maintaining results.

A Comprehensive Guide to Hyperpigmentation

Beautiful, glowing, and uniformly pigmented skin is a key visual sign of youthfulness. Yet, in a world where the impacts of harmful ultraviolet radiation and oxidative stresses from the environment are never ending – particularly as the ozone layer is slowly being depleted – achieving this goal seems elusive to many clients.

Rosacea Exposed: What They Don’t Teach You

Written by Ben Johnson, M.D., founder and formulator of Osmosis Pür Medical Skincare
Rosacea Exposed: What They Don’t Teach You

According to the textbooks, rosacea is still not fully understood. There are classifications of the condition, but they do not serve any real purpose in the diagnosis or treatment of rosacea. The Demodex mite and related bacteria have been the most commonly assumed cause and, yet, the skin presentation rarely supports that theory. An interesting, but often ignored, association is small intestinal bacterial overgrowth (SIBO), which, in one study, occurred in half of the rosacea cases. This figure directs us to the real problem, which is inflammation in the digestive tract.

10 Things About...Puffy Eyes

Written by Kathryn Khadija Leverette, L.E.
10 Things About...Puffy Eyes

Eye puffiness is caused by excess fluid that has collected in the orbital eye area, an indicator of one or more underlying causes. In most cases, this problem will resolve either on its own or after simple self-help treatments and lifestyle changes. Since puffy eyes can be a symptom of more serious eye conditions and health problems, chronic swelling should be assessed by a physician.

Sensitive Versus Sensitized Skin: Why They Are Different  and How to Treat Them

During skin consultations, skin care professionals often have clients mention that they have sensitive skin. Educated professionals frequently encounter resistance from clients when trying to break down their skin care-fearing wall and figure out if they truly are sensitive or if something else is the cause of their skin woes. More often than not, after further investigation and probing, professionals come to find that the client was wrong in stating such claims and that their sensitive skin is not actually sensitive at all.

New York Minute Treatment for Ethnic Skin

Written by Enrique Ramirez, L.E.
New York Minute Treatment for Ethnic Skin

Many skin care professionals find that ethnic skin can be extremely challenging to work with because its color makes it harder to treat. Any form of trauma, such as one extraction, can lead to inflammation followed by a dark spot. Ethnic skin should be treated with gentle products to ensure a thorough treatment is performed.

Treating Beyond Skin Tone: Incorporating Ancestry and Skin Type for Well-Rounded Solutions

Skin care is not one-size-fits-all and, as such, a variety of services will need to be offered and performed by skin care professionals. Being prepared to work with the ever diversifying population goes beyond creating a treatment plan based on the skin's pigmentation; it requires taking into account the client's ancestry and understanding the role that it plays in how the skin will respond to certain ingredients and treatments.

How to Detect and Manage Ethnic Skin Conditions

There are several aspects to addressing health risks and concerns associated with ethnic skin. To really scratch the surface of this topic, it is important to first look at how ethnic skin is classified. In general, the skin is defined by the Fitzpatrick scale. With this scale, skin type is classified by its reaction to ultraviolet light and ranges from Type I, ivory-colored skin, to Type VI, ebony-colored skin.

An Introduction to Ethnic Skin

Written by Cole Patterson, L.E., founder of Cole Skincare for Men
An Introduction to Ethnic Skin

Going beyond the basic skin analysis should be a regular practice for the proper examination of ethnic skin. In fact, there is a visual difference between ethnic skins in relation to sun exposure. The skin's physiology is identical in structure, but, due to the main determinant of melanin that is produced, darker skin tones offer a greater defense against sun damage.

A Step-By-Step: Brightening  Skin Care Treatment

The skin is an excellent record keeper; every moment spent in the sun adds up. Even if a client has only ever had one deep sunburn, that may be all that is needed to produce wrinkles.

The accumulation of this damage may lie beneath the surface of the skin, manifesting in signs of irreversible damage 15 to 20 years later. Some of these changes, however, can be seen early on in clients that are in their 20s. Up to 90 percent of the visible skin changes commonly attributed to aging are caused by the sun, specifically ultraviolet light.

When the  (Sun) Damage  Is Done:  How to Repair the Skin and Protect it from Future Sun Overexposure

Throughout history, the skin's color, whether a result of sun tanning or sun shielding, has served as a sort of status symbol. For many years, pale and refined skin was almost globally revered and sometimes attained through drastic measures. It was not until the 1920s that the tan became fashionable; since then, there has been a rise in sun damage and skin cancer rates. Is there one right solution to achieving the benefits of sun exposure while avoiding the unpleasant side effects for people of all genetic profiles?

The Ultraviolet-Induced Impact of Sun Exposure on the Skin

"Sunshine on my shoulders makes me happy / Sunshine in my eyes can make me cry," is a wise lyric that says it all. Without the sun, there would be no life on Earth; however, the same can be said of too much sun. It can be both life-giving and life-taking at the same time.

Most people love and enjoy the sun. Those who live in the northern hemisphere can hardly wait for spring and summer to come and provide time to enjoy the outdoors.

Prevention and Correction Go Hand in Hand

The majority of spas see an abundance of clients that are seeking some type of corrective procedure rather than preventative care. However, prevention is the first line of defense when it comes to skin health and slowing down the aging process. Unfortunately, many clients are missing this step and waiting until things get so out of control that they wind up in the spa and expect the skin care professional to remove 15 years of damage in one session.

The Physiology of Aesthetic Technology and How It Influences the Skin

The choice and integration of modalities for the treatment of various skin conditions have expanded during the past several years. There is a plethora of electrotherapy devices,1 as well as chemical peels and advanced-cosmeceutical chemistry, that offer cosmetic improvements for the face and body and can be found in both medical and spa environments. The level of use for each modality varies greatly, depending upon its purpose, degree of intrusiveness, and the environment in which it is being performed.

A Step by Step: The Facial that Fights Back

Written by Tami Rumbaugh, L.E.
A Step by Step: The Facial that Fights Back

A Professional Protocol for Protection Against the Sun
2016 has proven to be the year of essential and easy sun care. Skin care products are now including sun protection ingredients in every aspect of professional product lines. The most important step to take when creating a sun-savvy skin care routine is to decide the amount of sun protection that is needed for the client's lifestyle.

Soaking Up Sun Safety: How to listen to clients, build their trust, and spark conversations about sun protection.

Jennifer is a seasonally-motivated client between October and March. She uses every product and receives every treatment her skin care professional recommends, including peels, laser, microneedling, and retinoids. She has the commitment of a professional athlete. Eventually, Jennifer goes on a spring break cruise to Mexico and, by May, she is outside every day. She swears she wears sunscreen and finds shade where she can – even at the tennis court.

An Introduction to Sun Care June 2016

In addition to a consistent homecare regimen and professional treatments, proper sun care is a vital factor in protecting the skin. At all times, even during winter months and on cloudy days, clients should be wearing broad spectrum sunscreen that protects against both UVA and UVB exposure.


While most clients are aware of the dangers of UVB exposure, such as sunburns and skin cancer, many are not aware that UVA rays have a deeper penetration into the skin than UVB rays and are responsible for skin aging.Taking protective measures, such as using an appropriate SPF and sunscreen product, applying sunscreen 20 minutes before going outside, reapplying often, and wearing protective clothing will significantly reduce the client's risk of sun damage, premature aging, and skin cancer.

Trending Now Fermented Skin Care

Fermented skin care, which is another beauty trend that hails from Korea, utilizes fermented ingredients in order to help combat signs of aging.

A Step-By-Step: Collagen Infusion Therapy

Written by Dasha Saian, L.E.
A Step-By-Step: Collagen Infusion Therapy

Collagen infusion therapy is the perfect treatment for aging skin. Freeze-dried collagen masks enhance moisture levels, hydrate, improve functions of skin capillaries, recover loss of firmness and elasticity, even color tone, and oxygenate and stimulate natural skin collagen production.

Aging Beneath the Surface: Understanding aging on a cellular level

It seems that everyone wants to stay young; the quest for longevity is the number one goal of many individuals. Unfortunately, aging begins at birth and there is no magic potion to stop this natural process.

Menopause and Aging Skin: 21st century health and beauty solutions for mature skin

Globally, the mature skin category amounts to 25 percent of the skin care market and almost 40 percent of the anti-aging market. People are living longer lives than ever before due to better life expectancies, decreased mortality rates, and declining fertility rates.

Aging Skin: An Introduction to Mature Skin

As the skin changes with age, it becomes thin, loose, and loses fat. Mature clients often find that their veins and bones are more apparent and that injuries to their skin take longer to heal.

Tolerance and Resistance to Skin Care Products

Written by Anne C. Willis, L.E., C.M.E., founder of De La Terre Skincare
Tolerance and Resistance to Skin Care Products

Clients always want to know why skin care products are no longer effective and skin care professionals want to understand skin tolerance and resistance when it comes to various skin care solutions.

Clients will eventually outgrow acne.

Written by Catherine Atzen, founder of ATZEN Superior to Organic™ Skin Care
Clients will eventually outgrow acne.

While most teenagers experience some form of acne, many adults suffer from the condition well beyond their 20s and sometimes even into their 50s. The longer a client has acne, the worse their skin tends to get, often never completely repairing.

All Eyes On the Bride

Written by Nicole Wagner, owner of Powder Inc.
All Eyes On the Bride

Every woman wants to look her best on her wedding day. Brides-to-be will be preparing for everything months in advance. Shopping and vendor selections are a priority before the big day, including choosing beauty products for the bridal makeup. If the bride decides to hire a makeup artist, they should schedule makeup trials with at least two makeup artists. The following tutorial is an eye makeup look that is perfect for the big day.

10 Things About Rosacea

Written by Brandy Gonsoulin
10 Things About Rosacea

Whether it is the tiniest facial flush, persistent facial redness, painful stinging and burning or acne-like bumps, rosacea can cause physical discomfort for the 16 million Americans that are estimated to suffer psychologically and emotionally from this disorder. While medical therapy is the recommended course of treatment for anyone with rosacea, a dedicated and guided skin care regimen can help them successfully manage the condition.

The Bold and Beautiful Looks of Spring

This spring, makeup trends are bold. Professionals can expect to see graphic eyes, plump lips, exaggerated eyelashes, and vivid punches of color. Some of the top trends for this season include highlighting, contouring, and eyebrow accentuation. This easy-to-follow, step-by-step procedure will assist professionals in recreating some of the hottest runway trends.

Why Do Facials Feel so Good?

Written by Melanie Sachs
Why Do Facials Feel so Good?

Some clients prefer massages while others would rather have a facial. While the “feel-good” qualities of massages are widely known, what is it that makes a facial feel so wonderful and good deep down? Many would say that facials are easily as refreshing, rejuvenating, and relaxing as bodywork and may contribute that benefit to the delightful touch of a skin care professional, the intoxicating aroma, the sumptuous texture of the products and tools, the enchanting music, the décor and comfort of the spa environment, the feeling of sanctuary, or even the gift of sanity that is provided when the stresses and strains of everyday life melt away.

Techniques for Improving Facial Treatments

Written by Christiane Waldron
Techniques for Improving Facial Treatments

The great majority of spas are small businesses and staying relevant and up-to-date should be the businesses’ highest priority. When walking into a large retail chain, skin care professionals may notice brand new areas dedicated to medical devices. Some chains are even carving out large spaces where shoppers can handle and test the devices. Many advertisements are even touting the many benefits of these new and improved devices, with sales drastically rising in many categories.

A Step by Step: Treating Teen Skin

Written by Anabel De La Vega
A Step by Step: Treating Teen Skin

Breakouts can occur out of the blue and cause teenagers to feel as if everyone is staring at their oily complexion that shines out of control. The teenage years can be riddled with a number of skin problems. Teenagers can often feel like they are the only ones that are affected, but that is not true; skin problems are very common in teenagers.

Teens and Skin Care: Creating Great Habits for Life

The first thing that usually comes to mind when thinking about teenage skin care is acne treatments. A teenager, or even tween, will usually make their first visit to a spa in a state of desperation, no longer able to self-manage a condition that has probably spiraled out of control and has now become visibly and physically uncomfortable. Furthermore, the treatment of cystic or impacted acnelesions can be very uncomfortable. Lancing acnelesions and the application of antibacterial products can create a negative impression on young clients, resulting in them having a negative impression of the spa.

Acne: The Universal Teenage Struggle

Written by Brenda Linday, L.E., L.E.I.
Acne: The Universal Teenage Struggle

Acne is the most common skin condition in the United States, affecting approximately 40 to 50 million Americans and 650 million people worldwide, each year. Eighty-five percent of teenagers and young adults between the ages of 12 and 24 experience acne during their lifetime; this condition can be a major source of embarrassment. A recent survey found that teenagers suffering from acne experience feelings of low self-confidence, shyness, embarrassment, helplessness, difficulty with social interactions, and challenges at school.1

An Introduction to Teen Skin

Written by Christine Heathman, L.M.E., L.M.T., owner and CEO of GlyMed Plus
An Introduction to Teen Skin

Teenager appears to be the expressive idiom for uncontrollable hormones as adolescent bodies experience various physiological changes, including skin and body transformations. These changes can result in unwelcome acne and weight gain, which can directly affect a teenager's self-image. It is a complicated time of life for these young men and women. Professionally speaking, skin care professionals should pay close attention to this important, youthful consumer market and offer specialized skin treatments in their spas to serve teenage skin care needs.

An Introduction to Men

Like many of the differences that exist between men and women, the skin is no exception. In addition to having facial hair, which is not typical for women but does happen in some cases, men have thicker skin (about 25 percent thicker) due to androgen stimulation. They also experience tougher skin, a higher sebum production after puberty, and a higher collagen density than women.

Micro Peel Facial for Today's Man

Written by Enrique Ramirez, L.E., L.M.T.
Micro Peel Facial for Today's Man

Men may be from Mars and women from may be from Venus, but when it comes to skin care and aging, they share the same planet. One of the differences between men and women is that men are more discreet and quiet about their fear of aging. Fine lines, wrinkles, gray hair, and ingrown hairs (due to shaving) are some of the common concerns that men have.

Tailoring  Skin Care to the  Male Clientele

Men’s skin care is all about high performance. Insightful integration of an effective, daily regimen is as vital to improving the health of men’s skin as it is to women’s, but getting most men to do this is difficult unless the skin care professional has a good understanding of masculine psychology. Understanding what moves a man to commit to daily practices that will improve the quality of his skin creates a win-win relationship via rituals that will last a lifetime.

Marketing to the Modern Man

Written by Mara L. Shorr and Jay A.
Marketing to the Modern Man

Men and women are incredibly different, especially when talking about what makes them push the purchase button while surfing a website or what leads them to pick up the phone to make an appointment at the spa. If skin care professionals are looking to grow their male client base, making a concentrated effort has a stronger effect on their results than assuming their existing efforts will do double duty.

Why Hyperpigmentation is Your Best Friend

Written by Ben Johnson, M.D.
Why Hyperpigmentation is Your Best Friend

Most clients hate their unsightly spots. If skin care professionals knew that everything they have been taught about age spots is wrong, perhaps they would view them with more love and kindness. Logic and observation shows that it is time to embrace a modernized view of the aging process and, specifically, hyperpigmentation.
The skin and body perform trillions of actions every day with grace and mind-boggling precision. Mistakes are rare and are usually only the result of a pathogen or chemical pollutant.

Taking Natural to the Next Level

Written by Tami Rumbaugh, L.M.E.
Taking Natural to the Next Level

Natural ingredients, specifically from botanical sources, are powerful plant extracts and oils derived from flowers, herbs, nuts, seeds, roots, and berries. High-quality, results-oriented botanical skin care today has advanced technology and the latest, most-innovative ingredients. Botanical skin care today helps maintain youthful looking skin, working to prevent future damage. Skin care professionals can address the needs of the skin by using natural ingredient-based skin care products. Botanicals, herbal extracts, and natural vitamins provide exceptional results, improving skin health and appearance by revitalizing and regenerating skin.

The Truth About Labels

Written by Rachael Pontillo, L.E., M.Msc., C.N.A.P., CIHC
The Truth About Labels

The organic and natural personal care industry, much of which includes skin care products, is spreading across the globe like wildfire and it is projected to gross nearly $16 billion by 2020.1 That number is nearly double the figure grossed at the end of 2013. This sharp increase in supply is driven by a steep rise in consumer demand of all things natural, organic, green, holistic, cruelty-free, eco-friendly, preservative-free, and chemical-free.

Facial Procedure for Acneic Skin

Written by Dasha Saian, L.E.
Facial Procedure for Acneic Skin

When treating the acneic client, successful results come from a combination of a consistent homecare routine and professional treatments that are tailored to their acneic problems. One of the most important things to remember when treating clients that suffer from acne is that cross-contamination must be eliminated.

To Peel or Not to Peel Treating Acne

Written by Krista McKowen, L.E.
To Peel or Not to Peel  Treating Acne

It is generally accepted that the primary event in acne is the obstruction or occlusion of the pilosebaceous follicles resulting in the formation of the microcomedone. This process is caused by keratinization within the follicular infundibulum (hyperkeratinization) or hyperproliferation of keratinotycytes, along with increased adherence to the follicle wall.

Aggravate or Alleviate: Homecare Choices That Can Make or Break Acne

Acne is a genetic, treatable condition with no true cure. Most adult sufferers will be tied to a basic, acne-fighting regimen and an acne-safe lifestyle to help clear acne and prevent new breakouts. To get clear and stay that way, clients need an easy-to-follow regimen that is suited to their skin type, skin tone, sensitivity, lifestyle, and grade of acne, treats hyperkeratosis in the pores, the root cause of acne, penetrates the follicle to reduce inflammation, and controls the anaerobic P. acnesbacteria that fuels acne.

Detecting Skin Sensitivities A Holistic Approach to Sensitive Skin

Written by Rachael Pontillo, L.E., M.Msc, CIHC
Detecting Skin Sensitivities A Holistic Approach to Sensitive Skin

Sensitive skin is often viewed as a skin type, alongside oily, dry, and combination. Although product manufacturers wish it were that simple, skin sensitivity is not something that fits neatly into a singular, boxed type.

Acne in Pregnancy

Written by Sara Fulton, B.S., president and co-founder of Vivant Skin Care and Carson L. Catasus
Acne in Pregnancy

One out of two pregnant women will develop acne. If a woman had severe acne between the ages of 12 and 23, chances are she will develop acne in the first trimester of pregnancy.

Pine Cone Extract and its Link to Sagging Skin

Nature has always played a role in the aesthetic industry from essential oils to plant-based stem cells.

Skin: The Meeting Place Between our Inner and Outer Worlds One Woman’s Journey to Creating Interesting and Natural Cosmetics

When my mother and aunt were diagnosed with breast cancer and ovarian cancer, respectively, and as I watched my children grow, I became increasingly concerned with the contaminates implicated in the health issues my family was facing and to which my children were being put at risk.

Metastatic Breast Cancer An Even Uglier Side of Breast Cancer

There is an old myth that massage therapy and other skin care treatments can encourage cancer metastasis. While this statement is untrue, what exactly is metastasis? Metastasis is the manner by which cancer cells spread to other parts of the body. Twenty to 30 percent of people who are initially diagnosed with early-stage breast cancer will develop metastatic breast cancer, also called stage IV breast cancer. Metastatic breast cancer can occur five, 10, or even 15 years after the original diagnosis and even after successful treatments. Unfortunately, there is no cure for this type of cancer as most treatments are directed at controlling the spread of the disease and increasing the quality of life.

Winter Skin Solutions

Written by Dasha Saian, L.E.
Winter Skin Solutions

The cold and windy wintertime is ahead of us and that can mean dry, flaky, and irritated skin. The majority of clients who wish to hydrate their skin are not sure how and when to use a serum as opposed to a cream; the overwhelming amount of moisturizers on the market can cause much confusion. With the correct professional treatments and targeted homecare, winter skin can be glowing, moisturized, and healthy!

10 Things About... Sun Damage

Written by Elina Fedotova

Protecting the skin from the sun should be a major concern for clients of all ages. Skin care professionals need to be aware of the effects the sun can have on skin and be able to educate clients on what they can do to prevent damage before it is too late.

Optimizing Clients’ Homecare Regimen, An Effective Four-Step Regimen

Written by Ahmed Abdullah, M.D., F.A.C.S., F.I.C.S

There has never been a more exciting time to be in a skin-related field, including dermatology, plastic surgery, and, of course, aesthetics. Advances on two fronts – science and technology – have provided us with an incredibly in-depth understanding of skin physiology. Meanwhile, research and development efforts have resulted in the introduction of skin care products and equipment that are far more precise in their ability, allowing for a bigger impact on skin health and beauty.

Underlying Causes of Sensitive Skin: Analyzing Internal and External Factors

Sensitive skin is a common condition that affects a majority of people and commonly has predisposed factors such as ethnicity. Factors such as an impaired skin barrier, a weakened immune system, inflammation, and digestive health can contribute to the skin’s sensitivity. When treating sensitive skin, both internal and external factors should be considered.

Professional Tips for Sensitive Skin

Written by Tina Zillmann, L.E., C.L.H.R.P.
Professional Tips for Sensitive Skin

As an aesthetician with sensitive skin, it is difficult to sample and savor the different beauty products available on the market without experiencing some form of adverse reaction. Having experienced this condition throughout adulthood, it is easy to understand how sensitivity can be a stressful skin condition for many clients.

5 Benefits of Rosehip Oil

Move over coconut oil, there is a new miracle oil in town! Rosehip oil is cold-pressed and comes from the rosehip seed. Rosehip is the fruit left behind after the petals fall off a rose. Inside the fruit are seeds from which the oil is extracted. Rich in vitamins and antioxidants, rosehip oil is quickly gaining its place in the hearts of skin care professionals for multiple reasons.

Chemical Peel Intervention: Combined Modalities or Adjunct Treatments?

In our zealousness to incorporate new modalities into client treatments, skin care professionals often ask, “Which modalities can I combine with chemical peels?” However, the questions that professionals should ask themselves instead are:

Skin Care for Adventure-centric Clients

Written by Melissa Picoli, L.E.
Skin Care for Adventure-centric Clients

Sometimes even the best aestheticians get a little stuck in ruts, and can think of skin simply as either dry, oily, mature, acneic, or sensitive. Client intake forms usually ask for current routines, skin types, medications, and goals, but rarely ask about a client’s lifestyle and activities. This makes it too easy for professionals to inadvertently treat and recommend based solely on how a client’s skin is indoors, without really thinking through their daily life needs. 

Aging Skin: Prevent, Maintain, Reverse

Written by Dieter Kuster, Ph.D.
Aging Skin: Prevent, Maintain, Reverse

All too often, we use the term ‘aging skin’ to describe the visible process of getting older on the body’s largest organ. We as humans start to age from the moment we are born until we pass, so when we refer to aging skin, we are actually talking about aging itself.

The Pathogenesis of Acne

Written by Alexandria J. Zani
The Pathogenesis of Acne

A simple definition of acne is that it is a disease of the sebaceousfollicle, primarily affecting the face, back, and chest. It is caused by an inflammation of the oil glands that varies in severity, depending upon how much obstruction exists within the follicle.The challenge of acne emerges during a period in life when the first recipients of this outbreak are normally growing teenagers.

Catering to the Man

Written by Suki Kramer
Catering to the Man

The quest for clear skin is no longer consigned to women’s magazines or women in general. Men have finally begun to learn that they too have skin care needs and that they can look and feel better by taking care of their skin. And it does not have to cost much or be as complicated as they once thought! Their desire for effective skin care products has evolved far beyond shaving cream and aftershave to include regimens that women have embraced (in fact, pushed their men into) forever.

Male Clientele: A Growth Opportunity

Written by Catherine Atzen, M.B.A., CIDESCO
Male Clientele: A Growth Opportunity

The trend spans over a generation and solidifies. As years pass, an increasing percentage of men value the benefits of skin care products and many seek spa services. Demographics support that men’s use of products and more frequent bookings of spa visits represent significant business growth opportunities in cosmetic retail and to the professional aesthetics industry. Changing attitudes towards the importance of one’s appearance take men’s skin care from a niche market to mainstream. Some businesses are very successful at getting sales.

Mastering the Treatment of Acneic Skin

Written by Ahmed Abdullah, M.D., F.A.C.S., F.I.C.S.
Mastering the Treatment of Acneic Skin

Acne is, by far, the most common skin condition in the United States. In fact, the American Academy of Dermatology estimates that 85 percent of people will have it at some point in their life, whether that be during the teenage years – the decade when acne is most expected – or during the 20s, 30s, 40s, or even 50s and beyond.

Tips for Detecting Melanoma Early

The number of people affected by melanoma, the most deadly skin cancer in the United States, is consistently rising. It is commonly diagnosed in people under age 30. Dr. Hui Tsou, dermatopathologist and assistant medical director of Acupath Laboratories, offers five tips that skin care professionals can share with clients to help detect melanoma while it is still treatable.

Achieving Flawless Wedding Day Skin

Written by Ann McDonnell, president and founder of EcoGenics Active Botanical Skin Care
Achieving Flawless Wedding Day Skin

This is it. Your client is weeks away from one of the most important moments of her life – her wedding day! She will want the day to be nothing short of perfection. She will want to present the most beautiful version of herself to her family, friends, and most importantly – her fiancé.

Get Back to Basics to Get Real Results

Today, skin care professionals are fortunate enough to have access to a near endless amount of options in the treatment room. From the amazing, cutting-edge skin care ingredients to the advanced modalities revolutionizing the industry, there have never been more options available to skin care professionals than there are today.
While many of these next-generation ingredients and modalities are transforming the landscape of aesthetics for the better, it is important not to forget about some of the time-tested ingredients and fundamental techniques that have the ability to deliver powerful results in the treatment room.

Healthy Summer Skin

Written by Robert Sachs, L.M.T.
Healthy Summer Skin

In the changing of the seasons, we see how organisms in the natural world around us, be they plant or animal, respond to the challenges and gifts of sun, rain, wind, dryness, hot, cold, and so on. The new youth and vitality sprung from spring builds in intensity and power in the summer, to mature and ripen through the fall, only to recede in quiet repose in winter, until the winds and warmth of spring call forth what is new and fresh.

Shedding Light on New Sun Protection Ideas

Written by Krista Mckowen, L.E.
Shedding Light on New Sun  Protection Ideas

The sun is a subject that forever prevails in the skin care industry. Whether you are attempting to reverse sun damage, prevent it, or sift through the many sunscreen ingredient choices, sun protection is a hot topic among aestheticians and product manufacturers. Despite all we think is known about sun care, misinformation still abounds. New research emerges, revealing potential health risks and offering better formulations and new, protective ingredients that await Food and Drug Administration (FDA) approval.

Myths and Realities of Acne

During a recent three-country lecture tour, I happened to attend a conference where a video was being presented, showing a local skin guru performing an acne treatment on what appeared to be a teenaged boy.
His face, back, and chest were infested with papules and pustules, and the therapist was very professional appearing with her standard softening of the cuticle cuirass with various cleansers, steam, and masks. She did lancing work and extractions very skillfully, alternating with animated illustrations of the shunts in the skin where most of the P. acnesbacteria was inflamed. A few moments later, the actual therapist in the film sat down in the row in front of me – I recognized her as an attendee from my early classes in Russia several years ago. She turned to me and said “We do not have these kinds of cases anymore.”

When is it Okay to Peel Sensitive Skin?

There are a lot of questions and much trepidation around administering chemical peels and corrective treatments on sensitive skin. Are rejuvenating treatments safe? Will the skin react negatively to a peel or enzyme formula? How much is too much?
The term sensitive is often overused or misunderstood, and rejuvenating treatments, particularly peels, when properly administered, are very safe and may be one of the best supports for what is termed sensitive skin.
Simply knowing the client’s skin and the difference between truly sensitive skin and skin that is just reacting to a particular substance is the first step in ensuring success in the treatment room. It is important for skin care professionals to have an understanding of what formulas and treatments work best with this skin type and what to do if a complication occurs.

Natural versus synthetic Acne Solutions

Written by Tina Zillmann, L.E., C.L.H.R.P.
Natural versus synthetic Acne Solutions

According to the American Academy of Dermatology, acne affects over 40 million Americans. Over $2.2 billion was spent in acne treatment alone in 2004. As skin care professionals, we know that acne is not limited to teenagers; more adult women are experiencing acne symptoms as a result of hormonal imbalances. Its effects are physical and emotional, which makes acne therapy a solid market for professional treatment and retail growth – if you know the condition, treatment limitations, and are realistic with client expectations.
Many clients want to look and feel better without delay and downtime, and at a price that is budget-conscious. They also want safe skin care solutions. In my experience as a skin care facility owner and product distributor, I have noticed a growing demand for natural skin care solutions without chemical ingredients that work. First, skin care professionals must understand the condition prior to treatment, which puts consultation and skin analysis at the forefront of acne therapy. Then, based on the client’s individual acne characteristics, they need to define what natural and chemical solutions are available and have the opportunity to deliver those treatment plans. With expertise and thorough product knowledge, the best solution can be deciphered to help acne clients the best manager their acne.

Winter Skin Under the Sun

Written by Alison Adams-Woodford, L.E.
Winter Skin  Under the Sun

It all started in the 1920s when Coco Chanel fell asleep while outdoors on vacation in the French Riviera and woke up with an unintended sunburn. The style icon singlehandedly changed previous views that skin should be pale and pristine to one that viewed a tan as a fashion statement. There is a slow-moving paradigm shift back to a belief that tanning is dangerous, and campaigns from a variety of organizations and corporations are working to uphold the idea of one’s own natural skin tone as beautiful. The ongoing effort to extoll the virtues of daily, year-round sun protection has gained traction, but not enough. Even those who protect their skin during the summer months often think that once the fall season rolls around, daily protection is no longer necessary. Gaining an understanding of the sun’s strength during different seasons, how ultraviolet rays interact with skin, and how the climate in the winter can be the culprit in many other winter-related skin issues, helps clarify and emphasize the need for customized, year-round care, treatment, and protection.

Sun Smart: A Changing Conversation About Sunscreen

The sunscreen conversation has felt static for some time. We make the recommendation to wear sunscreen and re-apply often to clients as often as we ask them to hydrate. Here is the tricky part: it is not that simple. There is so much gray area, so much uncertainty and, as the people that clients visit frequently and expect well-informed dialogue from, it is the skin care professional’s responsibility to stay in touch with changing data and form an intelligent opinion. The conversation needs to be constantly evolving as we understand the issues more profoundly. Thinking we know all the answers is a dangerous assertion.

The Latest News on Sun Protection Why You Need to be an Educated Resource for Your Clients

Do not let winter and the shorter exposure to sunlight lessen the importance of discussing sunscreen. Educating your clients to practice safe sun can be lifesaving. One in five Americans will develop skin cancer over the course of a lifetime. While that number is epidemic, what is more shocking is the fact that only one in five people wear sunscreen on a daily basis, even though 94 percent of them know that continued exposure to the sun can potentially cause cancer.
It is the skin care professional’s job to keep clients sun-safe year-round, while remaining at the forefront of skin care technologies. As my friend Jim Nicolai, M.D. says, “Sun damage is not going away any time soon. The ozone layer is not getting thicker. Our ultraviolet protection is getting less and less. When it comes to sun exposure, you have to know how much is too much.”

The Underlying Causes of Hyperpigmentation

Hyperpigmentation is a prevalent skin disorder that has multiple causes and can be challenging to treat. Many people suffer through years of unsuccessful attempts at eliminating the disorder and may be reluctant to professional treatment. Understanding the underlying causes and predisposed factors with hyperpigmentation will help assess each situation and help prevent the onset of the disorder in some cases. The initial consultation and health history will help determine the exact cause of the disorder and help skin care professionals establish a successful treatment protocols for clients.

Menopause: Signs, Symptoms and More

Written by Michelle D’Allaird, L.E.
Menopause: Signs, Symptoms and More

I think the worst part of writing this article was that I had the “slapped in the face” realization that “oh no, this is me!” Although I am not quite yet experiencing the physiological characteristics, my age is certainly applicable as is the horrific realization that yes, I am getting older! So though my mindset of “30-something” keeps me in skinny jeans and knee-high boots, my body is clearly aware of the senescent truth! In any case, it is what it is, and I embrace not only every wrinkle that defines my life (not really) but every phase of womanhood as well. The years have been good to me and I can honestly say that I love being a woman!

Identifying and Understanding Menopausal Skin

Our skin changes in menopause just like during puberty (what fun huh?). In fact, the skin goes through normal, hormonal shifts every seven years, and clients should be ready to change up their skin care routine along with those shifts. Along with these changes, the expectation and pressure to feel and look beautiful can be overwhelming and cause the kind of stress that produces more skin problems. Change is inevitable, and all things in life temporal, but does that really mean these are negative occurrences? No. That is just how we have been taught – whether it be the media, the perfectly photo-shopped and weirdly-pulled actresses (come on, they look crazy!) – to think about ourselves. It is actually possible to mature healthfully and in fact, beautifully! Is it possible to evolve into our true selves and embrace our character and the experiences that show on our radiant faces, bodies, hearts, and stubbornly-wise minds?

Teen Skin

Written by Linda Gulla
Teen Skin

When working with teenage skin, there are various factors to consider. The biggest concern with teenagers is acne. With the approach of puberty, most teenagers become self-conscience of their appearance, and the onset of acne comes with changing hormone levels. As a skin care professional, you should approach your teenage client with sensitivity towards their concerns. Often times, parents of teenagers are searching for help and are frustrated and confused as to what treatment works best. When working with minors, it is most professional to consult with parents and make them aware of what choices they have. To avoid liability, the skin care professional should never work on a minor without the parent or guardian’s consent.
During the consultation, a complete health history should be completed and updated with each consecutive treatment. The skin care professional should make note of any previous or current dermatological therapy, including any oral or topical medications. Certain medications can affect clinical outcomes and can cause contraindications with some forms of therapy. If unsure, it is best to have the parent consult with a physician prior to any treatment.

More Than  Skin Deep | How the skin protects against disorders

There is a great correlation between the morphology of a skin condition and what is chosen for correction in both treatments and the cosmetic chemistry found in product lines. At times, there may be a great deal of emphasis placed on a brand or isolated ingredients without realizing that a manifested skin condition requires research and contemplation going beyond what is visually apparent. Products are directly formulated to impact the skin. A key factor is to realize that the skin care professional should perform a thorough skin analysis, following an intelligent pathway that leads to discovering the underlying cause of a skin condition. This information becomes a mainstay as we continue to build the ideal skin correction program for clients.

The Key Three: Be Prepared for These Disorders

Aestheticians are in the unique position to observe many skin disorders and some diseases. Even though it is out of the aesthetician’s scope of practice to treat skin diseases, having knowledge is power, and skin care professionals should be able to recognize disorders and diseases that require medical referral to a physician or dermatologist. Many chronic conditions require treatment from both a physician and aesthetician; these include keratosis pilaris, acne, rosacea, and skin sensitivities. Many clients struggle with three common skin diseases that are not properly understood by aestheticians.

Protecting Winter Skin

Written by Michael Q. Pugliese, L.E.
Protecting Winter Skin

Heat flows from warm to cold objects. As environmental temperature drops, heat is lost from the body. We respond in two ways to a drop in temperature; the first is peripheral vasoconstriction, and the second is an increase in metabolism in an effort to generate more heat. Almost all of the skin’s problems associated with the cold can be derived from these two facts. Cold skin is poorly-functioning skin characterized by dryness, itching, and sub-acute inflammation, all resulting from a greater loss of water. Categorically, you can say that when skin is cold, it shifts into low gear and its ability to function is greatly compromised. Here are 10 suggestions to tell clients to help them survive the winter and protect skin from damage.

The Truth About Acne Cosmetica

Written by Jennifer Linder, M.D.
The Truth About Acne Cosmetica

Acne cosmetica is a term that was first coined in 1972 by dermatologists Albert M. Kligman and Otto H. Mills to represent the post-adolescent acne they believed was caused by cosmetic use. This is a complicated topic as its discussion involves the debunking of the common term “comedogenic,” the discussion of raw materials versus finished cosmetic products, as well as the fact that acne cosmetica affects both males and females. When properly identified, it is typically easy to clear and rarely causes scarring, making it a relatively easy form of acne to treat. We will address the salient points about this condition, in addition to highlighting effective strategies for treatment.

Inside Acne

Written by Rhonda Allison
Inside Acne

Acne is one of the most common skin challenges in the United States, and it is not just limited to teenagers. In fact it impacts all ages, races and genders. Nearly 60 million Americans have active acne and 20 million are at risk of developing scar tissue as a result.

Teenage Pore Wars

Written by Lydia Sarfati, L.E.
Teenage Pore Wars

As skin care professionals, one of the most rewarding jobs we do is help our teenage clients win the epic battles they fight against their pores. And we can rescue them as long as we are fully equipped with the proper tools and know-how. This article will discuss the essentials needed to make sure you and your clients overcome the pore wars.

Helping Teenagers Attain Healthy, Happy Skin

Written by Dieter Kuster, M.D.
Helping Teenagers Attain Healthy, Happy Skin

The teenage years can be a stressful time, full of pressure from peers, parents, school, and the opposite sex. At times, teenagers may feel like the walls are closing in, and juggling all that life throws at them may be a daunting task. There is so much to think about that their skin care can easily take a back seat to everything else that seems so much more important. But now is the time for them to start paying attention to what their skin is telling them. They need to start taking steps to prevent

Holistically Caring for Teenage Skin

Written by Rachael Pontillo
Holistically Caring for Teenage Skin

The world is a teenager’s oyster. The teenage years are jam-packed with fun, friendship, sports, freedom, change, growth, and promise. Well, unless said teenager has skin conditions like acne, eczema or psoriasis that are causes emotional pain or embarrassment.
Skin conditions do not just affect a teenager’s appearance. The teenage years are the time of life when first dates, first kisses, homecoming queens, and proms all occur – the success of which more often than not is dependent on one’s perceived level of physical attraction. However, skin conditions can affect teenagers on a much deeper level. Face it: kids can be mean! The teenage years are also where “mean girls” and bullies rise up and use cruelty, intimidation, and emotional or physical abuse to assert dominance over those they deem “losers,” “freaks,” “nerds,” or “uncool.” While those with perfect skin are not always exempt from bullying and cattiness, teenagers with visible skin conditions are often targeted.

Two Theories of Aging

Written by Sonia Boghosian
Two Theories of Aging

Sometimes the most obvious things in life go unnoticed. We see many wrinkles every day, but ask someone to define a wrinkle, and usually the answer is “Well, everyone knows what a wrinkle is.” We need to look at the microscopic anatomy of the skin to study the basis of the wrinkle which is often like the hole in a doughnut; it only exists by virtue of what surrounds it.

The Nature of Mitochondria

Written by Michael Q. Pugliese, L.E.
The Nature of  Mitochondria

Aging remains a mystery to science. Indeed, many scientists do not believe that aging is natural or an inevitable consequence of living. Many repair systems exist in the body to correct molecular defects. For many years, it was thought that mitochondria did not have a repair system, but is now known that it has the same repair system as nuclear deoxyribonucleic acid (DNA) molecules. An early clinical sign of DNA damage is muscle weakness. This weakness is a result of reduced production of the energy needed by the muscle in order to contract. Muscles primarily move other parts of the body and this is achieved by a complex contraction system that is initiated by an energy source known as adenosine triphosphate (ATP). In this article we shall discuss the nature of mitochondria, how they supply energy, what causes them to be damaged, and what we can do to help offset this process.

Naturally Anti-Aging

Written by Elina Fedotova, L.E
Naturally Anti-Aging

As skin care professionals, we are familiar with the signs of aging skin: loss of elasticity, discolorations, fine lines, and wrinkles. And we know these signs are directly related to oxidative and emotional stress, as well as inflammation and glycation. To combat these instigators, formulators are continuously looking for more effective ingredients for their anti-aging formulations. Botanical ingredients play an important role in corrective skin care formulations because they deliver vital organic nutrients to skin cells in a form that is friendly and recognizable to the body. Organic skin care product formulators often use whole plant extracts. Studies show that whole plant extracts deliver visible results without being highly concentrated.

Cellular Aging: From Youth to Maturity

Written by Alexandra J. Zani
Cellular Aging: From Youth to Maturity

How many times have you waited in line at the grocery store and chatted with the stranger near you? When observing someone for the first time or even when meeting a friend after many years, we cannot help but notice their face and overall appearance. Subconsciously, we also may guess his or her age based on our observations. Chronological age and actual appearance can be deceiving. As skin care professionals, we strive to help our clients maintain their youthful appearance using anti-aging protocols. As aestheticians, we can be easily overwhelmed by media advertisements and topics on anti-aging. What does this term really mean?

Solutions to Men’s Common Skin Care Problems

When it comes to skin care, not all men are created equal. Globally, men spend about $28 billion to take care of all their grooming needs, whereas, women spend $91 billion worldwide for skin care. One of the main reasons for the great divide is a lack of education and understanding about the many benefits of adopting a healthy skin care regimen. The good news is the divide is getting smaller as the modern man becomes more concerned with his appearance and is increasingly aware of the benefits associated with a healthy skin care routine, which in turn is driving growth in the global men’s grooming market.

Finding and Keeping Your Man: Attracting the Male Spa Client

Over and over we read it: men are still the untouched client wealth for day spa operators. According to various news reports and industry surveys, men represent anywhere from five to 30 percent of the day spa market. While these statistics are often unclear about the exact types of services and products to which men are primarily attracted, it is clear that there is business opportunity in the male spa customer. As a spa business consultant, many of my clients stress the desire to build a better volume in male clients. The reasons range from an expected growth in sales revenue to something as simple as, “It would be fun to have more men in the spa!” Whatever the motivation for expanding into the male spa customer market, it is obvious that a strategy is required to achieve that result.