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Managing the Skin During Menopause

Written by Alexandra J. Zani, industry strategist and scientific aesthetics educator

Menopause is defined as the point in time when a female’s menstrual cycles permanently cease due to the natural depletion of ovarian follicles/oocytes from aging. During a woman’s cycle, the ovaries release a mature egg called an ovum (oocyte). The onset of menopause displays biological changes within the entire endocrine system, in particular with decreased levels of reproductive hormones, especially estrogen and testosterone. Therefore, it is not uncommon that a woman begins to experience hot flashes and night sweats, psychological changes, insomnia, mood swings, difficulty in concentration, urinary incontinence, and even loss of sex drive. Moreover, the reduction in estrogen skin begins to result in thinning and decreased elasticity in the dermis. The mitigation of reproductive hormones also may cause an increase in the risk of osteoporosis, bone fractures, and cardiovascular disease.

The average age that a woman begins menopause is 51. However, it can occur as early as a woman’s 30s or as late as her 60s.

The only loose benchmark to determine when menopause will start for a woman is by noting the age her mother’s menstrual cycle ended.

During the second phase, women’s testosterone becomes more prominent, causing sebaceous glands to secrete thicker sebum, causing oily skin (and adult acne in some women). It also causes the development of facial hair in some women, particularly on the chin.

As estrogen levels drop, fat is redistributed throughout the body and underneath the skin, resulting in a loss of the supportive fat that holds the body’s shape and maintains the skin’s firmness. Thus, the skin and various body parts begin to sag.

A Step-By-Step: Menopausal Skin

Written by Erin Lucie, DNP, APRN, FNP-C

Menopause brings about a series of hormonal changes that transform skin physiology in many ways. Even if skin care professionals have been treating the same client for many years and know their skin care routine inside and out, they can be caught off guard with unexpected changes brought on by menopause. Traditionally, menopause is associated with a decline in all hormones across the board; however, it is an imbalance between hormones that creates issues.

Empowered in the Face of Menopause

Written by Victoria Tabak, M.B.A., L.E.

Menopause is a time when a woman transitions into the next chapter of her life; it is a time when almost everything about her physically, mentally, and physiologically may transform. The population of menopausal women is rapidly increasing. There are approximately 6,000 women in the United States daily that reach menopause, estimating at over 2 million per year. Although menopause is an inevitability for women, it is not something that is typically discussed. For example, not many people know that in the first 38 years of a woman’s life, her skin does not age as much as it does during five years of menopause. Menopause is a natural progression for a woman, but the experience may be radically different; it may be relatively easy for some and difficult for others. The greatest impact a woman can have in the face of menopause is empowering herself through education and knowledge and managing the changes through healthy and appropriate lifestyle choices.

Skin care professionals that offer service selections such as facials, massage, body treatments, manicures, pedicures, waxing, and makeup are likely to welcome additional revenue. Once the professional’s appointments are booked and their time is maxed out, the only way for them to increase revenue is to sell retail products or add-ons!

In 2016, men’s skin care and hair products brought in more than $19 billion globally. As men become more conscious and knowledgeable about their skin, skin care manufacturers and professionals are offering more products and treatments that are tailored to men. The following are a few game changing ingredients that are beneficial for men’s skin:

Nourishing Cells to their Full Potential

Written by Courtney Freeman, L.E.I.

Skin is a reflection of internal health on all levels. It is a complex organ that changes daily due to the fluctuations in hormones and nutrients that pass through cells. The concept of cellular skin care is important to teach to clients as it makes perfect sense when it comes to the formation of acne. Whether a client is suffering from teenage acne, adult acne, or hormone-induced acne, the concept is the same. This application also rings true for rosacea-like conditions and other skin problems, such as hyperpigmentation. When all aspects of skin health and wellness from a cellular perspective are integrated, harmony and radiance emanate from within.

Protocol for Sensitized Skin

Written by Natalya Rachkova, L.M.E.

Sensitized skin usually occurs due to the stratum corneum being compromised. Improper function of or damage to the stratum corneum results in moisture loss, irritation, and hypersensitivity. There is a deeper understanding of what is going on with the epidermis on sensitized skin under a microscope: abnormally functioning stratum corneum with decreased natural moisturizing factor and interruption of lipid bilayer leading to excessive dryness; increased transepidermal water loss; decreased desquamation resulting in a dry, flaky surface; inflammation in lower epidermal layers as a result of pro-inflammatory cytokines; and inflammation-activated Langerhans cells.

American Academy of Dermatology reports that 50 percent of the United States population experience some form of sensitized skin.

Almost a quarter of facial skin care users are interested solely in products with natural, organic ingredients that are designed specifically for sensitive skin.

Research Developments in Sensitive Skin Conditions

Written by Brenda Linday, L.E., L.E.I., C.A.C.

Recent research brings exciting news for clients struggling with sensitive skin conditions. New medications have been approved by the FDA, studies have uncovered patterns in the development of specific conditions, and research teams have uncovered correlations between sensitive skin conditions and other health disorders. While most clients would be very excited to hear that research has found the cure for their ailment, a deeper understanding of their condition is helpful for many of them.

Sensitized Skin: Where to Start and What to Do Featured

Written by Kat Khadija Leverette, L.E.

Whether the struggle is with persistent redness and rashes; sensitivity to the sun; full-blown allergic reactions; or tightness, flaking, and itching; working with sensitive skin can be quite challenging because of all the potential variables.

Sensitive skin is really a lay term, not a medical condition, and has come to be associated with people who have allergic reactions or experience irritation from a variety of allergens, random substances, or triggers. Though not necessarily sensitive, many people mistakenly believe they have sensitive skin because they react to shaving or their acne worsens from pore-clogging ingredients or poor food choices when, in actuality, what they suffer from is sensitized skin. Sensitive skin is not a diagnosis: there are sensitive skin conditions and there is skin that is sensitized. That said, overworking the skin is one of the main reasons it will act sensitive.

At Home Hindrances to Successful Acne Therapy

Written by aclyn Strausser, L.M.E., senior account executive at SkinCeuticals

Professional treatments are essential to addressing skin concerns and acne is no different. Most clients believe that going to the spa and doing a handful of treatments will clear their skin. While in-office treatments do improve the skin at an accelerated rate, it is not a one-shot answer to maintaining breakout-free skin.

Treatments are typically done six to 12 times a year and it is what the client is doing at home in their personal time the other 359 days of the year that are going to make the most difference and harness long-lasting results.

Sunscreen: Separating Opinion from Fact

Written by Eduardo Ruvolo, director of medical affairs for Bayer

Volumes of information are now conveniently accessible through the internet and social media by simply pressing the "Enter" key. Each year, as the start of the annual sunscreen season rolls around, it brings out conflicting opinions – even debates – on sun care. The conflicting messages, which come from a variety of sources, are published in traditional and social media and can make their way into conversations among friends and family.

The Ins and Outs of Adult Acne

Written by Courtney La Marine, L.E., owner of Clove Studios

Acne is one of those pesky problems people like to leave in their teenage years. Adult acne is prevalent now more than ever. Some people experience acne throughout their life; products or treatments may temporarily alleviate it, but it is always there, rearing its ugly head. Others experience adult on-set acne. While there are many factors that can contribute to breakouts, whether in adolescence or as an adult, there are many ways to treat acne at all ages.

• The skin around the eyes is the thinnest and most fragile skin on the face

• It lacks sebaceous glands, collagen, and elastin fibers.

An Anti-Aging Facial Approach: Mind Over Method

Written by Douglas Preston, L.E.

Professional anti-aging or age management facial treatments are concerned with delaying, and, to some degree, visually reversing the signs of skin damage that are earned over the course of time. Anti-aging can be defined in terms of changing harmful client behaviors that lead to aging skin. To that end, professionals should begin where all behaviors originate: the mind and its habits of thought.

Properly addressing the needs of clients with aging skin requires understanding each individual client from a holistic perspective and establishing a solid grasp on integrating medical conditions with advanced treatments and pure botanicals. In this changing world, where social concerns, environmental issues, political influences, family dynamics, and the power of media have the ability to distract people from their own well-being and, in some way, affect almost every decision people make, caring for personal health can become a challenge. Skin is responsible for being a barrier and, unfortunately, due to external factors, is often directly or indirectly impacted; most often, it is simply neglected.

While people cannot stop themselves from growing older, they can minimize many external factors and their effects on the aging process. Gracefully growing older is a learned art; like any skill, it takes knowledge, patience, and practice. For results that show, it is important for clients to approach their anti-aging routine in a holistic manner. They are never too young to start! Cosmetics alone are not enough to stave off the aging process. While they are important, clients should also focus on their diet and state of well-being; they should pay attention to everything they put in and on their body, including food, thoughts, people, emotions, weather, and the air they breathe.

There are two types of skin aging that occur at the same time: intrinsic and extrinsic.

Hyperpigmentation is a common, usually harmless condition in which patches of skin become darker in color than the normal surrounding skin, which occurs when an excess of melanin forms deposits in the skin.

A common form of hyperpigmentation is age (liver) spots. Sun damage is the leading cause of age spots, which are referred to by doctors as solar lentigines.

Hyperpigmentation Treatment Protocol

Written by Ashley Stowers

With pigmentation issues being one of the most frequently addressed concerns in professional skin care, it is important to understand that there is no longer a sole culprit of dark spots. Skin care professionals used to think that the most stubborn forms of hyperpigmentation were either sun damage related or hormonally induced, but new research suggests that there are numerous other sources and factors that play a role in skin discoloration. This information causes professionals to rethink how they treat every client because different ingredient technologies can help address their clients' specific concerns.

Are Age Spots the New Wrinkles?

Written by by Lydia Sarfati

Historically, clients would go to the spa at the sight of their first wrinkle. Now, however, age spots are driving in more and more clients. Not only is the incidence of age spots increasing, but the demographic is getting younger! As a primary manifestation of photoaging due to exposure to ultraviolet light, hyperpigmentation and age spots are a valid reality. The good news is that the appearance of age spots can be effectively diminished, both professionally and in conjunction with a good homecare regimen.

Treating Hyperpigmentation through the Mind, Body, and Spirit

Written by Rachael Pontillo, L.E., M.Msc, C.I.H.C., C.N.A.P.

Hyperpigmentation is beginning to rival acne and wrinkles as a top reason people consult aestheticians. Although different types of hyperpigmentation may have different etiologies, the outcome is still a visible result of what happens when melanocytes – whether in normal numbers in the basal layer of the epidermis or those transferred to the dermis – repeatedly receive signs of distress or trauma, either to the skin or another system of the body.1 Instead of the melanin umbrella of pigment closing when the distress is over, the melanocytes continue to produce excessive melanin in an effort to protect the other cells and systems in the dermis; as a result, the umbrella remains open.

Treating Dry Skin: A Practical Application

Written by Natalya Rachkova, L.E., co-founder of the Better Skin Company

Dry skin is a common skin care issue that can often be easily treated with daily homecare and routine facials. Extremely dry skin can be the harbinger of more serious skin issues, such as dermatitis. Dermatitis is an inflammation of the skin that may cause an itchy rash or patches of dry, irritated skin. Upon consulting with your client, pay close attention to the visible signs to determine how to best proceed with treatment.

Dry Skin Treatment Protocol

Written by Lina Kennedy

Dry skin is something everyone tends to experience, especially when outside forces, such as dry weather, indoor heating, and cold winters, play a role. When clients are experiencing dry skin, exfoliating treatments are key to bringing back their healthy, glowing skin! Dead Sea salt is especially beneficial for those who suffer from dry skin. Not only do the salt grains exfoliate the skin, but they also deliver a dose of beneficial minerals!

It is easy enough for aestheticians to identify the symptoms of dry skin – especially since dryness and dehydration are common issues for clients – but consumers often tolerate flakiness thinking it will eventually go away, leading to chronic dryness and dehydration.

The Pathophysiology of Dehydration

Written by Alexandra J. Zani

Dehydration reveals itself through numerous body signals, such as thirst, dizziness, and low energy. For example, skin may feel parched or dry after hiking or spending time in the hot sun. Relative humidity within a person's environment greatly influences the balance of skin moisture. For example, clients may live in a seasonal climate zone or in a region where homes are heated in the cooler months or air conditioned during the summer. These variables may affect how the skin feels, as well as interfere with its ability to have good moisture balance.

Xerosis cutis is the medical term for abnormally dry skin, which derives from the Greek word xero, meaning dry.

Dry skin is a common skin condition characterized by a lack of moisture in the epidermis.

The main cause of dry skin is dry air, or low humidity, in both inside and outside environments. Keep homes moist by using a humidifier.

The daily shower routine, prolonged exposure to hot water and harsh soaps, greatly perpetuates dry skin. Showers should be kept short, water should be warm rather than hot, and skin should be patted dry with a towel afterwards instead of rubbing.

As skin ages over the years, hormone levels change and the skin becomes thin and dehydrated.

Treating Skin Conditions Through Essential Oils

Written by Courtney La Marine, L.E.

Aromatherapy has many places in a person's day-to-day life: a familiar scent that evokes a memory, a spice that engulfs their favorite food, or the flower they smell as they are passing by.

Aromatherapy, when not used topically, can help with insomnia, nausea, headaches and migraines, and aches and pains, among other ailments. In the beauty industry, aromatherapy is being used to aid in the health of the skin, as well as take clients on a sensory journey. There are many ways essential oils are utilized; they can be applied topically and through carrier oil, cream, soaking bath, inhalation, or a room diffuser.

Sunburn Treatment Protocol

Written by Rachelle Dupree

Before beginning any facial or body treatment for clients with a sunburn or sun-damaged skin, skin care professionals should always do a full assessment of the degree of damage. This assessment can be done either visually or with a facial magnifying tool. If the spa offers the option of ultraviolet photography, it can also be a valuable tool to assess the true sun damage. Photographs using a small pulse of ultraviolet light as the flash source can reveal markings and underlying damage not visible to the naked eye.

The Darwin Project clarified Charles Darwin's famous conclusion; instead of implying that only the strong survive, Darwin said that "those who survive are the ones who most accurately perceive their environment and successfully adapt to it." With the changes that have occurred over the last few decades, the way mankind manages the planet's source of energy (the sun) has changed as well. While industrialization and technology made "the way of living" easier, the climate continued changing and the sun's rays intensified. As a result, sun care has also changed.1

The Basics of Sunscreen

Written by Dasha Saian, L.E.

How do I choose the right sunscreen? What is SPF? Which sunscreen is safe for my children? Should I use a waterproof sunscreen? Many people, including skin care professionals, have questions about sun care products. There is a vast array of sunscreen products on the market and plenty of conflicting information regarding their effectiveness, toxicity, and proper mode of application. It is important for professionals to thoroughly understand the topic of sunscreen in order to best advise their clients on proper sun care methods.

Broad spectrum sunscreen protects the skin from both UVA and UVB rays.

Drugs and Their Effects on the Skin

Written by Erin Madigan-Fleck, N.M.D., C.N.H.P., L.M.C.

A study published by the Journal of the American Medical Association concluded that the prevalence of prescription drug use in America among people 20 years of age and older had risen to 59 percent in 2012 from 51 percent just 12 years earlier. During the same period, the percentage of people taking five or more prescription drugs nearly doubled from eight to 15 percent.1 Another study cites the United States as consuming 75 percent of the world's prescription drugs.2

The Random Causes of Aging

Written by Jamina Metcalf, L.E. national educator for Skin Fitness Therapy

To be young! We are all in a fight against aging. Not so much for our vanity either, but for our overall health as well. We constantly hear about ways to stay young: eat right, exercise, stay out of the sun, take care of our skin, etc. But there are some random things that cause aging that we may not be fully aware of!

There is no doubt that acne can be extremely stressful for clients. However unsightly a breakout may be, clients look forward to the future because they know that the unsightly blemishes will not last forever; that is until they realize that once the blemishes heal, they sometimes have to deal with unsightly dark spots. They often cannot help but wonder what is really going on.

Exfoliation for skin health and rejuvenation is as old as the quest for beauty itself. Ancient Egyptians and Greeks discovered the benefits of exfoliation centuries ago, utilizing elements like alabaster, oils, and salt.

Cleopatra bathed in milk as a mainstay of her beauty regimen. She may not have understood the science behind it, but she was taking advantage of milk's lactic acid, an alpha hydroxy acid that digests protein, thereby removing the top layer of dead skin and stimulating cell renewal.

10 Things About...Sensitized Skin

Written by Patricia Faley

Skin sensitivity is on the rise. In fact, it is estimated that up to half of the world's population perceive their skin to be sensitive. It is important, however, to note that there is a marked difference between skin that is genetically sensitive and skin that has been affected by internal or external factors that can accelerate nerve responses and increase permeability of the stratum corneum, resulting in the skin becoming sensitized.

As the population grows increasingly multicultural, skin care professionals will be challenged with the task of recognizing how dark skin differs from light skin, what is normal versus problematic, and which treatments have the highest efficacy and lowest potential for complications for individuals with multiethnic origins.

By the year 2065, more than half the population of the United States will be either African American, Hispanic American, Asian American, or Native American. In light of this information, it is important to consider the special traits of ethnic skin and the preferable exfoliation methods to properly care for it.

Catering to a Male Clientele

Written by Kathryn Leverette, L.E., nationally certified aesthetic specialist

Catering to male clients can be easy once the skin care professional gets them through the door. It can be difficult for professionals to get the average guy to navigate through an estrogen-driven retail area; into a maze of hair, nail, and pedicure stations; past a sea of female faces; and down the hall to a treatment room. It is often much easier for the professional who has a side door or works in a clinical setting.


The skin is a multifaceted, active organ that has many important functions to the overall health of our inner bodies. The protective functions utilize three systems: The stratum corneum barrier, immunity and providing pigment to give protection from harmful radiation, including sun exposure particularly by the ultraviolet light (UVL) spectrum. UVL is the culprit that induces visible, extrinsic skin aging (photoaging), as well as most types of skin cancer.

Many clients notice every dark spot on their face. In fact, most skin care professionals would, more than likely, state that hyperpigmentation is a concern on par with aging and
wrinkles and affects clients from every ethnic group. While many clients often feel as if their spots appeared out of nowhere, the truth is that their hyperpigmentation has probably been brewing for decades.


Hyperpigmentation, which is caused by an increase in the skin's melanin content, is one of the most common skin concerns seen by skin care professionals. This condition is most often caused by sun exposure; inflammation; hormonal changes, such as pregnancy; certain medical conditions, like Addison's disease; and various drugs, such as certain antibiotics.

Infinite Treasures: Highlights in Aesthetic History

Written by Erin Madigan-Fleck, N.M.D., C.N.H.P., L.M.C.

The topic of aesthetics and skin in general is well chronicled throughout industry textbooks, blogs, fashion magazines, videos, and more. The history surrounding beauty dates back to 10,000 B.C.E.; some of the original components from ancient formulas, such as olive oil, lavender, and chamomile, are still popular today.

A Step-by-Step: Dark Spot Correcting Treatment

Written by Katherine Tomasso, L.E., C.M.T.

Hyperpigmentation is one of the most common skin conditions and often one of the most difficult to correct. Having and setting proper expectations and expressing the importance of consistency with professional treatments and a homecare regimen is the key to successfully treating dark spots and maintaining results.

Beautiful, glowing, and uniformly pigmented skin is a key visual sign of youthfulness. Yet, in a world where the impacts of harmful ultraviolet radiation and oxidative stresses from the environment are never ending – particularly as the ozone layer is slowly being depleted – achieving this goal seems elusive to many clients.

Rosacea Exposed: What They Don’t Teach You

Written by Ben Johnson, M.D., founder and formulator of Osmosis Pür Medical Skincare

According to the textbooks, rosacea is still not fully understood. There are classifications of the condition, but they do not serve any real purpose in the diagnosis or treatment of rosacea. The Demodex mite and related bacteria have been the most commonly assumed cause and, yet, the skin presentation rarely supports that theory. An interesting, but often ignored, association is small intestinal bacterial overgrowth (SIBO), which, in one study, occurred in half of the rosacea cases. This figure directs us to the real problem, which is inflammation in the digestive tract.

10 Things About...Puffy Eyes

Written by Kathryn Khadija Leverette, L.E.

Eye puffiness is caused by excess fluid that has collected in the orbital eye area, an indicator of one or more underlying causes. In most cases, this problem will resolve either on its own or after simple self-help treatments and lifestyle changes. Since puffy eyes can be a symptom of more serious eye conditions and health problems, chronic swelling should be assessed by a physician.

During skin consultations, skin care professionals often have clients mention that they have sensitive skin. Educated professionals frequently encounter resistance from clients when trying to break down their skin care-fearing wall and figure out if they truly are sensitive or if something else is the cause of their skin woes. More often than not, after further investigation and probing, professionals come to find that the client was wrong in stating such claims and that their sensitive skin is not actually sensitive at all.

New York Minute Treatment for Ethnic Skin

Written by Enrique Ramirez, L.E.

Many skin care professionals find that ethnic skin can be extremely challenging to work with because its color makes it harder to treat. Any form of trauma, such as one extraction, can lead to inflammation followed by a dark spot. Ethnic skin should be treated with gentle products to ensure a thorough treatment is performed.

Skin care is not one-size-fits-all and, as such, a variety of services will need to be offered and performed by skin care professionals. Being prepared to work with the ever diversifying population goes beyond creating a treatment plan based on the skin's pigmentation; it requires taking into account the client's ancestry and understanding the role that it plays in how the skin will respond to certain ingredients and treatments.

There are several aspects to addressing health risks and concerns associated with ethnic skin. To really scratch the surface of this topic, it is important to first look at how ethnic skin is classified. In general, the skin is defined by the Fitzpatrick scale. With this scale, skin type is classified by its reaction to ultraviolet light and ranges from Type I, ivory-colored skin, to Type VI, ebony-colored skin.

An Introduction to Ethnic Skin

Written by Cole Patterson, L.E., founder of Cole Skincare for Men

Going beyond the basic skin analysis should be a regular practice for the proper examination of ethnic skin. In fact, there is a visual difference between ethnic skins in relation to sun exposure. The skin's physiology is identical in structure, but, due to the main determinant of melanin that is produced, darker skin tones offer a greater defense against sun damage.

The skin is an excellent record keeper; every moment spent in the sun adds up. Even if a client has only ever had one deep sunburn, that may be all that is needed to produce wrinkles.

The accumulation of this damage may lie beneath the surface of the skin, manifesting in signs of irreversible damage 15 to 20 years later. Some of these changes, however, can be seen early on in clients that are in their 20s. Up to 90 percent of the visible skin changes commonly attributed to aging are caused by the sun, specifically ultraviolet light.

Throughout history, the skin's color, whether a result of sun tanning or sun shielding, has served as a sort of status symbol. For many years, pale and refined skin was almost globally revered and sometimes attained through drastic measures. It was not until the 1920s that the tan became fashionable; since then, there has been a rise in sun damage and skin cancer rates. Is there one right solution to achieving the benefits of sun exposure while avoiding the unpleasant side effects for people of all genetic profiles?

"Sunshine on my shoulders makes me happy / Sunshine in my eyes can make me cry," is a wise lyric that says it all. Without the sun, there would be no life on Earth; however, the same can be said of too much sun. It can be both life-giving and life-taking at the same time.

Most people love and enjoy the sun. Those who live in the northern hemisphere can hardly wait for spring and summer to come and provide time to enjoy the outdoors.

The majority of spas see an abundance of clients that are seeking some type of corrective procedure rather than preventative care. However, prevention is the first line of defense when it comes to skin health and slowing down the aging process. Unfortunately, many clients are missing this step and waiting until things get so out of control that they wind up in the spa and expect the skin care professional to remove 15 years of damage in one session.

The choice and integration of modalities for the treatment of various skin conditions have expanded during the past several years. There is a plethora of electrotherapy devices,1 as well as chemical peels and advanced-cosmeceutical chemistry, that offer cosmetic improvements for the face and body and can be found in both medical and spa environments. The level of use for each modality varies greatly, depending upon its purpose, degree of intrusiveness, and the environment in which it is being performed.

A Step by Step: The Facial that Fights Back

Written by Tami Rumbaugh, L.E.

A Professional Protocol for Protection Against the Sun
2016 has proven to be the year of essential and easy sun care. Skin care products are now including sun protection ingredients in every aspect of professional product lines. The most important step to take when creating a sun-savvy skin care routine is to decide the amount of sun protection that is needed for the client's lifestyle.

Jennifer is a seasonally-motivated client between October and March. She uses every product and receives every treatment her skin care professional recommends, including peels, laser, microneedling, and retinoids. She has the commitment of a professional athlete. Eventually, Jennifer goes on a spring break cruise to Mexico and, by May, she is outside every day. She swears she wears sunscreen and finds shade where she can – even at the tennis court.

In addition to a consistent homecare regimen and professional treatments, proper sun care is a vital factor in protecting the skin. At all times, even during winter months and on cloudy days, clients should be wearing broad spectrum sunscreen that protects against both UVA and UVB exposure.

While most clients are aware of the dangers of UVB exposure, such as sunburns and skin cancer, many are not aware that UVA rays have a deeper penetration into the skin than UVB rays and are responsible for skin aging.Taking protective measures, such as using an appropriate SPF and sunscreen product, applying sunscreen 20 minutes before going outside, reapplying often, and wearing protective clothing will significantly reduce the client's risk of sun damage, premature aging, and skin cancer.

Fermented skin care, which is another beauty trend that hails from Korea, utilizes fermented ingredients in order to help combat signs of aging.

A Step-By-Step: Collagen Infusion Therapy

Written by Dasha Saian, L.E.

Collagen infusion therapy is the perfect treatment for aging skin. Freeze-dried collagen masks enhance moisture levels, hydrate, improve functions of skin capillaries, recover loss of firmness and elasticity, even color tone, and oxygenate and stimulate natural skin collagen production.

It seems that everyone wants to stay young; the quest for longevity is the number one goal of many individuals. Unfortunately, aging begins at birth and there is no magic potion to stop this natural process.

Globally, the mature skin category amounts to 25 percent of the skin care market and almost 40 percent of the anti-aging market. People are living longer lives than ever before due to better life expectancies, decreased mortality rates, and declining fertility rates.

As the skin changes with age, it becomes thin, loose, and loses fat. Mature clients often find that their veins and bones are more apparent and that injuries to their skin take longer to heal.

Tolerance and Resistance to Skin Care Products

Written by Anne C. Willis, L.E., C.M.E., founder of De La Terre Skincare

Clients always want to know why skin care products are no longer effective and skin care professionals want to understand skin tolerance and resistance when it comes to various skin care solutions.

Clients will eventually outgrow acne.

Written by Catherine Atzen, founder of ATZEN Superior to Organic™ Skin Care

While most teenagers experience some form of acne, many adults suffer from the condition well beyond their 20s and sometimes even into their 50s. The longer a client has acne, the worse their skin tends to get, often never completely repairing.

All Eyes On the Bride

Written by Nicole Wagner, owner of Powder Inc.

Every woman wants to look her best on her wedding day. Brides-to-be will be preparing for everything months in advance. Shopping and vendor selections are a priority before the big day, including choosing beauty products for the bridal makeup. If the bride decides to hire a makeup artist, they should schedule makeup trials with at least two makeup artists. The following tutorial is an eye makeup look that is perfect for the big day.

10 Things About Rosacea

Written by Brandy Gonsoulin

Whether it is the tiniest facial flush, persistent facial redness, painful stinging and burning or acne-like bumps, rosacea can cause physical discomfort for the 16 million Americans that are estimated to suffer psychologically and emotionally from this disorder. While medical therapy is the recommended course of treatment for anyone with rosacea, a dedicated and guided skin care regimen can help them successfully manage the condition.

This spring, makeup trends are bold. Professionals can expect to see graphic eyes, plump lips, exaggerated eyelashes, and vivid punches of color. Some of the top trends for this season include highlighting, contouring, and eyebrow accentuation. This easy-to-follow, step-by-step procedure will assist professionals in recreating some of the hottest runway trends.

Why Do Facials Feel so Good?

Written by Melanie Sachs

Some clients prefer massages while others would rather have a facial. While the “feel-good” qualities of massages are widely known, what is it that makes a facial feel so wonderful and good deep down? Many would say that facials are easily as refreshing, rejuvenating, and relaxing as bodywork and may contribute that benefit to the delightful touch of a skin care professional, the intoxicating aroma, the sumptuous texture of the products and tools, the enchanting music, the décor and comfort of the spa environment, the feeling of sanctuary, or even the gift of sanity that is provided when the stresses and strains of everyday life melt away.

Techniques for Improving Facial Treatments

Written by Christiane Waldron

The great majority of spas are small businesses and staying relevant and up-to-date should be the businesses’ highest priority. When walking into a large retail chain, skin care professionals may notice brand new areas dedicated to medical devices. Some chains are even carving out large spaces where shoppers can handle and test the devices. Many advertisements are even touting the many benefits of these new and improved devices, with sales drastically rising in many categories.

A Step by Step: Treating Teen Skin

Written by Anabel De La Vega

Breakouts can occur out of the blue and cause teenagers to feel as if everyone is staring at their oily complexion that shines out of control. The teenage years can be riddled with a number of skin problems. Teenagers can often feel like they are the only ones that are affected, but that is not true; skin problems are very common in teenagers.

The first thing that usually comes to mind when thinking about teenage skin care is acne treatments. A teenager, or even tween, will usually make their first visit to a spa in a state of desperation, no longer able to self-manage a condition that has probably spiraled out of control and has now become visibly and physically uncomfortable. Furthermore, the treatment of cystic or impacted acne lesions can be very uncomfortable. Lancing acne lesions and the application of antibacterial products can create a negative impression on young clients, resulting in them having a negative impression of the spa.

Acne: The Universal Teenage Struggle

Written by Brenda Linday, L.E., L.E.I.

Acne is the most common skin condition in the United States, affecting approximately 40 to 50 million Americans and 650 million people worldwide, each year. Eighty-five percent of teenagers and young adults between the ages of 12 and 24 experience acne during their lifetime; this condition can be a major source of embarrassment. A recent survey found that teenagers suffering from acne experience feelings of low self-confidence, shyness, embarrassment, helplessness, difficulty with social interactions, and challenges at school.1

An Introduction to Teen Skin

Written by Christine Heathman, L.M.E., L.M.T., owner and CEO of GlyMed Plus

Teenager appears to be the expressive idiom for uncontrollable hormones as adolescent bodies experience various physiological changes, including skin and body transformations. These changes can result in unwelcome acne and weight gain, which can directly affect a teenager's self-image. It is a complicated time of life for these young men and women. Professionally speaking, skin care professionals should pay close attention to this important, youthful consumer market and offer specialized skin treatments in their spas to serve teenage skin care needs.

Like many of the differences that exist between men and women, the skin is no exception. In addition to having facial hair, which is not typical for women but does happen in some cases, men have thicker skin (about 25 percent thicker) due to androgen stimulation. They also experience tougher skin, a higher sebum production after puberty, and a higher collagen density than women.

Micro Peel Facial for Today's Man

Written by Enrique Ramirez, L.E., L.M.T.

Men may be from Mars and women from may be from Venus, but when it comes to skin care and aging, they share the same planet. One of the differences between men and women is that men are more discreet and quiet about their fear of aging. Fine lines, wrinkles, gray hair, and ingrown hairs (due to shaving) are some of the common concerns that men have.

Men’s skin care is all about high performance. Insightful integration of an effective, daily regimen is as vital to improving the health of men’s skin as it is to women’s, but getting most men to do this is difficult unless the skin care professional has a good understanding of masculine psychology. Understanding what moves a man to commit to daily practices that will improve the quality of his skin creates a win-win relationship via rituals that will last a lifetime.

Marketing to the Modern Man

Written by Mara L. Shorr and Jay A.

Men and women are incredibly different, especially when talking about what makes them push the purchase button while surfing a website or what leads them to pick up the phone to make an appointment at the spa. If skin care professionals are looking to grow their male client base, making a concentrated effort has a stronger effect on their results than assuming their existing efforts will do double duty.

Why Hyperpigmentation is Your Best Friend

Written by Ben Johnson, M.D.

Most clients hate their unsightly spots. If skin care professionals knew that everything they have been taught about age spots is wrong, perhaps they would view them with more love and kindness. Logic and observation shows that it is time to embrace a modernized view of the aging process and, specifically, hyperpigmentation.
The skin and body perform trillions of actions every day with grace and mind-boggling precision. Mistakes are rare and are usually only the result of a pathogen or chemical pollutant.

Taking Natural to the Next Level

Written by Tami Rumbaugh, L.M.E.

Natural ingredients, specifically from botanical sources, are powerful plant extracts and oils derived from flowers, herbs, nuts, seeds, roots, and berries. High-quality, results-oriented botanical skin care today has advanced technology and the latest, most-innovative ingredients. Botanical skin care today helps maintain youthful looking skin, working to prevent future damage. Skin care professionals can address the needs of the skin by using natural ingredient-based skin care products. Botanicals, herbal extracts, and natural vitamins provide exceptional results, improving skin health and appearance by revitalizing and regenerating skin.

The Truth About Labels

Written by Rachael Pontillo, L.E., M.Msc., C.N.A.P., CIHC

The organic and natural personal care industry, much of which includes skin care products, is spreading across the globe like wildfire and it is projected to gross nearly $16 billion by 2020.1 That number is nearly double the figure grossed at the end of 2013. This sharp increase in supply is driven by a steep rise in consumer demand of all things natural, organic, green, holistic, cruelty-free, eco-friendly, preservative-free, and chemical-free.

Facial Procedure for Acneic Skin

Written by Dasha Saian, L.E.

When treating the acneic client, successful results come from a combination of a consistent homecare routine and professional treatments that are tailored to their acneic problems. One of the most important things to remember when treating clients that suffer from acne is that cross-contamination must be eliminated.

To Peel or Not to Peel Treating Acne

Written by Krista McKowen, L.E.

It is generally accepted that the primary event in acne is the obstruction or occlusion of the pilosebaceous follicles resulting in the formation of the microcomedone. This process is caused by keratinization within the follicular infundibulum (hyperkeratinization) or hyperproliferation of keratinotycytes, along with increased adherence to the follicle wall.

Acne is a genetic, treatable condition with no true cure. Most adult sufferers will be tied to a basic, acne-fighting regimen and an acne-safe lifestyle to help clear acne and prevent new breakouts. To get clear and stay that way, clients need an easy-to-follow regimen that is suited to their skin type, skin tone, sensitivity, lifestyle, and grade of acne, treats hyperkeratosis in the pores, the root cause of acne, penetrates the follicle to reduce inflammation, and controls the anaerobic P. acnes bacteria that fuels acne.

Detecting Skin Sensitivities A Holistic Approach to Sensitive Skin

Written by Rachael Pontillo, L.E., M.Msc, CIHC

Sensitive skin is often viewed as a skin type, alongside oily, dry, and combination. Although product manufacturers wish it were that simple, skin sensitivity is not something that fits neatly into a singular, boxed type.

Acne in Pregnancy

Written by Sara Fulton, B.S., president and co-founder of Vivant Skin Care and Carson L. Catasus

One out of two pregnant women will develop acne. If a woman had severe acne between the ages of 12 and 23, chances are she will develop acne in the first trimester of pregnancy.

Nature has always played a role in the aesthetic industry from essential oils to plant-based stem cells.

When my mother and aunt were diagnosed with breast cancer and ovarian cancer, respectively, and as I watched my children grow, I became increasingly concerned with the contaminates implicated in the health issues my family was facing and to which my children were being put at risk.

There is an old myth that massage therapy and other skin care treatments can encourage cancer metastasis. While this statement is untrue, what exactly is metastasis? Metastasis is the manner by which cancer cells spread to other parts of the body. Twenty to 30 percent of people who are initially diagnosed with early-stage breast cancer will develop metastatic breast cancer, also called stage IV breast cancer. Metastatic breast cancer can occur five, 10, or even 15 years after the original diagnosis and even after successful treatments. Unfortunately, there is no cure for this type of cancer as most treatments are directed at controlling the spread of the disease and increasing the quality of life.

Winter Skin Solutions

Written by Dasha Saian, L.E.

The cold and windy wintertime is ahead of us and that can mean dry, flaky, and irritated skin. The majority of clients who wish to hydrate their skin are not sure how and when to use a serum as opposed to a cream; the overwhelming amount of moisturizers on the market can cause much confusion. With the correct professional treatments and targeted homecare, winter skin can be glowing, moisturized, and healthy!

10 Things About... Sun Damage

Written by Elina Fedotova

Protecting the skin from the sun should be a major concern for clients of all ages. Skin care professionals need to be aware of the effects the sun can have on skin and be able to educate clients on what they can do to prevent damage before it is too late.

Optimizing Clients’ Homecare Regimen, An Effective Four-Step Regimen

Written by Ahmed Abdullah, M.D., F.A.C.S., F.I.C.S

There has never been a more exciting time to be in a skin-related field, including dermatology, plastic surgery, and, of course, aesthetics. Advances on two fronts – science and technology – have provided us with an incredibly in-depth understanding of skin physiology. Meanwhile, research and development efforts have resulted in the introduction of skin care products and equipment that are far more precise in their ability, allowing for a bigger impact on skin health and beauty.

Sensitive skin is a common condition that affects a majority of people and commonly has predisposed factors such as ethnicity. Factors such as an impaired skin barrier, a weakened immune system, inflammation, and digestive health can contribute to the skin’s sensitivity. When treating sensitive skin, both internal and external factors should be considered.

Professional Tips for Sensitive Skin

Written by Tina Zillmann, L.E., C.L.H.R.P.

As an aesthetician with sensitive skin, it is difficult to sample and savor the different beauty products available on the market without experiencing some form of adverse reaction. Having experienced this condition throughout adulthood, it is easy to understand how sensitivity can be a stressful skin condition for many clients.

Move over coconut oil, there is a new miracle oil in town! Rosehip oil is cold-pressed and comes from the rosehip seed. Rosehip is the fruit left behind after the petals fall off a rose. Inside the fruit are seeds from which the oil is extracted. Rich in vitamins and antioxidants, rosehip oil is quickly gaining its place in the hearts of skin care professionals for multiple reasons.

In our zealousness to incorporate new modalities into client treatments, skin care professionals often ask, “Which modalities can I combine with chemical peels?” However, the questions that professionals should ask themselves instead are:

Skin Care for Adventure-centric Clients

Written by Melissa Picoli, L.E.

Sometimes even the best aestheticians get a little stuck in ruts, and can think of skin simply as either dry, oily, mature, acneic, or sensitive. Client intake forms usually ask for current routines, skin types, medications, and goals, but rarely ask about a client’s lifestyle and activities. This makes it too easy for professionals to inadvertently treat and recommend based solely on how a client’s skin is indoors, without really thinking through their daily life needs. 

Aging Skin: Prevent, Maintain, Reverse

Written by Dieter Kuster, Ph.D.

All too often, we use the term ‘aging skin’ to describe the visible process of getting older on the body’s largest organ. We as humans start to age from the moment we are born until we pass, so when we refer to aging skin, we are actually talking about aging itself.