One class of ingredients that continues to offer exciting new options to the world of skin care is peptides. Peptides have been perennial favorites due to their gentle, non-irritating qualities and long-term anti-aging benefits. Because new peptides that promise remarkable benefits are constantly being discovered, it is important for skin care professionals to understand the basic science behind peptides.
Peptides are more than just skin care superstars – they are truly intelligent molecules that naturally play a role in the function of cells, tissues and hormones in the body. That is why they are of interest to many scientific disciplines such as biochemistry, medicine, nutrition, and even psychology.

What exactly are peptides? Peptides are shortened versions of proteins. Peptides contain two or more amino acids linked by a peptide bond. Peptides can be formed from as few as two amino acids but may contain as many as 50.

How are they named? Peptides are named according to the number of amino acids. The shortest peptides are dipeptides, consisting of two amino acids, followed by tripeptides, tetrapeptides, pentapeptides, and so on. A polypeptide is a peptide with over 30 amino acids, and a protein is a larger molecule with more than 50 amino acids.

What types of results do peptides provide? Peptides are great ingredients that provide multiple anti-aging benefits. Over time, skin will start to look more radiant, luminous, firmer and smoother, revealing younger looking skin, due to the increase in collagen production.

What are the most important classes of peptides used in skin care? Peptides used topically offer anti-aging benefits in various ways. Based upon their functions, topical peptides are typically divided into four classes: signal peptides, carrier peptides, neurotransmitter peptides and enzyme-modulating peptides.

Signal peptides communicate with cells on how and when to function. They mimic naturally occurring triggers that signal the body to produce collagen, elastin and glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) to help skin and other tissues repair themselves. This is the class of peptide most widely used in skin care because it supports an increase in the skin’s firmness, strength, suppleness, and elasticity. Matrixyl® 3000 (Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7) is an outstanding example of a signal peptide that is popular in skin care.

Carrier peptides transport active ingredients, such as copper and zinc. Copper is a mineral that aids in wound healing, assists in collagen production, and enhances antioxidant activities. Copper Tripeptide-1, used topically, has been shown to achieve significant improvements in minimizing the appearance of wrinkles.

Neurotransmitter peptides “block” the release of chemicals that cause muscle contraction using a mechanism similar to that used by Botox®. Argireline® (Acetyl Hexapeptide-8) is a well-known peptide used to help relax muscles in order to reduce the appearance of expression lines and wrinkles.

 Enzyme-modulating peptides inhibit the function of key enzymes in some metabolic processes. Many of these peptides are extracted from botanical sources. They work to inhibit degradation of dermal matrix, melanin production, or inflammation. Eyeliss™ (Dipeptide-2) helps prevent puffiness and reduce the appearance of bags under the eyes.

How do peptides work with other ingredients? When peptides are married with certain ingredients, it can enhance their benefits to make products more effective. The combination of these ingredients may also make the formula act quicker and provide faster results.

In what other ways can peptides be beneficial? Howard Murad, M.D., F.A.A.D. says, “Healthy skin is a reflection of overall wellness.” When you are sick, tired, or stressed, it shows on your skin. In fact, many people think stress is one of top causes of premature aging. Stress can make our skin dehydrated, sensitive, and more susceptible to damage. Besides causing lines from furrowing your brow, stress also makes you look considerably older. Peptides may prove to be beneficial for stress-related aging because they can also serve as a stress reducer. Some peptides can influence how we feel by stimulating the pituitary gland to release hormones such as oxytocin, the hormone that has the ability to reduce stress. In addition to looking for topical products that contain peptides to boost our declining collagen levels, it is important to take care of our emotions since how we feel reflects in the health of our skin.

Hyang Joo is the senior manager of aesthetics for Murad Skincare, Inc., where she develops skin care curriculum for spa industries. She is an Inclusive Health Practitioner® and a CIDESCO International diplomat. She also holds a Master’s Degree in Health and Nutrition Education. With over 14 years of experience as a licensed aesthetician and educator, Hyang has mentored many skin care professionals and presented numerous seminars at spas and wellness centers in the United States.