Not all exfoliating methods are created equal, especially when it comes to treating ethnic skin. In order to provide your patients of color with safe and effective exfoliation procedures, it is imperative to understand the differences in the structure and function of ethnic skin. As we become a more blended global society, many patients we treat will have mixed heritage. Even a patient who has very light skin, but has Asian, African, or Hispanic ancestry will need to be exfoliated with more gentle techniques as if they were a patient with very dark, Fitzpatrick VI skin. Read More

Human skin, like all other organs, undergoes chronological aging. Skin aging is characterized histologically by irregularly dispersed melanocytes, elastosis, reduction, and alterations in collagen and accumulation of a variety of lipid-derived pigments such as chromolipoids and lipofuscins. These internal and silent histological shifts manifest clinically in the skin and the visible benchmarks are identified by fine and coarse wrinkling, roughness, laxity, dryness, sallowness, pigmentary moddling, and actinic keratosis conditions. What common link is the primary foundation of skin aging? The environment. Skin in direct contact with the environment undergoes all consequences of environmental damage causing dry skin, thereby exacerbating aging. Read More

When and how to perform exfoliation treatments on ethnic skin has been complicated by history, and lack of training, in spite of new advances in technologies. Ethnic skin has a propensity to develop hyperpigmentation when overly traumatized, or hyperpigmentation, a lighter discoloration of the skin when the appropriate products or treatments are not utilized. How and why this happens will be explained as it relates to the exfoliation treatments available to most skin care professionals. Read More

The skin care industry has spent the last 20 years on a mission: to slow/stop the aging process and/or reverse damage that has already occurred. If we polled physicians and aestheticians today on whether or not our mission has been "accomplished," the answer would likely be a near unanimous "no". Regardless, the industry claims from manufacturers include an endless parade of "age-reversing", "ageless", and/or "anti-aging" miracle products. Is there any hope of achieving such lofty claims? Read More

We are bombarded regularly by commercials and advertisements extolling the virtues of exfoliation. Products contain "micro-scrubbers", apricot pit grounds, and other ingredients touted to scrub away the outer layers of dead skin cells while "making skin appear fresh and beautiful." About a decade ago microdermabrasion was introduced, while chemical peels have been used for decades. Yet as exfoliation use is burgeoning, the incidence of skin cancer has continued increasing faster despite the introduction of high potency sunscreens (>SPF 15). Understanding the science behind exfoliation is important for any skin care professional in order to provide the best service to your clients. Read More

The skin care industry has spent the last 20 years on a mission: to slow/stop the aging process and/or reverse damage that has already occurred. If we polled physicians and aestheticians today on whether or not our mission has been "accomplished," the answer would likely be a near unanimous "no". Regardless, the industry claims from manufacturers include an endless parade of "age-reversing", "ageless", and/or "anti-aging" miracle products. Is there any hope of achieving such lofty claims? Read More

How does an aesthetician or therapist determine a recommendation for a body treatment for their guest? Which one works best: Body scrubs, polish, glow, gommage, or chemical peels therapies for an exfoliation treatment that will also soothe, nourish, protocols… how is one to choose? Salt or sugar?  Mud or seaweed? The good news is there is not really a wrong choice – just a more qualified choice for the client Spa guests need education on the value of the services offered, for them to know the importance of each. Most spas fail to promote the only body treatment. While massage is an important aspect or body treatment, there are so many opportunities to treat, heal, spoil, pampers and give the client a wonderful experience with a body treatment. Read More

As a practicing aesthetician, how do you determine the need for a light to mid-depth peel like trichloroacetic acid (TCA) or Jessner solutions? In some states, these peel treatments may not be permitted by stand-alone aestheticians – even then, it may not be the State, but an insurance carrier preventing the treatment in a facility. Once eligibility is determined, there is the wide-ranging availability of the peel in many solutions, protocols to be followed per the manufacturer, and training that may be required. Read More

Microdermabrasion is an incredible invention! It has allowed us to give our clients spectacular results with little to no downtime. Are you using microdermabrasion in your own spa? If you aren't, you should be! It has gained in popularity over the past 20 years. However, do you know what it really does to your client's skin and why you are getting such great results? What about the newest form of microdermabrasion, the crystal free machine? Do you know the difference between crystal and crystal free and which is best for your clientele? Have no fears, I am here to tell you all the ins and outs of microdermabrasion, what it does to the skin, and educate you so that you can pick the best machine for your own practice.What Exactly is Microdermabrasion? Read More

In this age of chemical exfoliants, aestheticians have many choices to make when deciding what to use when treating client's skin. In our struggling economy, we all work hard to make the best choices when choosing which products to use so as to maximize results while minimizing costs in the treatment room. We also have to carefully consider these factors when recommending to our clientele what they should use for their home care regimen to complement the treatments we provide. Read More