Many hold the belief that beauty is universal – that what moves oneself must move everyone. This is more projection than truth, shaped by each person’s own cultural lens and the histories they carry. Beauty is not a fixed ideal; it is a cultural construct. Every society, in every era, has defined it differently according to its own values, hierarchies, and stories.
What one culture finds beautiful, another might reject; what one calls natural, another may see as artificial. These differences are not accidental – they reveal how each community expresses its ideals of morality, class, gender, and belonging. Skin, especially, bears these ideals. Its tone, texture, and the rituals of its care are never just aesthetic choices; they are expressions of culture.
Colonial histories once defined certain shades and features as symbols of civility. Climate and labor shaped ideas of refinement. Modern capitalism turned those ideals into global industries. Beauty, though often framed as something innate or universal, ultimately mirrors the values of the culture that defines it.
To recognize this is to understand that aesthetics is never only about appearance but about identity. For professionals, acknowledging these narratives is not just thoughtful; it is ethical. It invites them to see beauty not as something to standardize, but as something to understand.
THE HISTORICAL ROOTS OF SKIN CLASSIFICATION
The idea of using skin color to define identity, status, or worth has deep roots. In the 19th and early 20th centuries, anthropologists tried to organize humanity into hierarchies based on physical traits like skin tone, skull shape, and facial features. One of the most infamous tools from that era was the Von Luschan chromatic scale – a set of 36 glass tiles used to compare and “measure” skin color. What was presented as science was, in reality, an extension of colonial thinking that equated lighter skin with civilization and darker skin with inferiority.
Not everyone accepted these ideas. Scholars such as William Montague Cobb challenged the misuse of anatomy and anthropology to justify racism, arguing that human variation could never be reduced to color or bone structure. Later, researchers like Nina Jablonski reframed the understanding of skin tone entirely, showing that pigmentation is an evolutionary adaptation to sunlight, geography, and environment, not a marker of value or intelligence.
For those in skin care and aesthetics, this history still matters. When a client expresses a desire for lighter skin, it is rarely just about appearance; it can echo generations of cultural pressure and inherited ideals. Understanding where these narratives come from helps professionals meet clients with greater awareness and care. It reminds professionals that their role is not only to improve skin but to help people feel seen, respected, and at home in it.
A GLOBAL PERSPECTIVE
Skin is both physical and symbolic. It reflects health and environment, yet it also carries generations of cultural meaning. Ideals of beauty such as skin color and youth are not just products of biology or fashion; they are shaped by the societies that define them.
In many parts of the world, lighter skin has long been tied to privilege and class, a reflection of colonial histories and divisions of labor. Elsewhere, glowing, tanned skin represents vitality or modernity. These preferences did not arise in isolation – they are the result of historical, social, and economic forces.
Colonialism spread Eurocentric beauty ideals far beyond Europe, leaving lasting effects on self-perception and consumer habits. Class has always shaped what is seen as desirable, and it is important to recognize the difference between aspirational and cultural beauty standards.
Aspirational ideals mirror social power. They evolve with wealth, technology, and global trends. On the other hand, cultural beauty is grounded in shared values and identity. To understand how these forces appear in everyday life, the diverse beauty cultures around the world that continue to shape how skin is seen, valued, and cared for can be explored.
BEYOND GLASS SKIN
Few countries have influenced modern skin care as profoundly as South Korea. “Glass skin” – dewy, luminous, “poreless” – has become shorthand for perfection. Behind the trends lies a deeper cultural philosophy: skin as a reflection of inner discipline, health, and care. Rooted in Confucian ideals of self-cultivation, Korean beauty culture prizes diligence and consistency. It is about ritual, respect for the body, and prevention over correction. Skin health is seen as a lifelong investment rather than a quick fix.
The K-beauty industry reflects this ethos through innovation: lightweight formulations, fermented ingredients, and high-tech delivery systems that prioritize gentleness and efficacy. Korean consumers tend to value refinement and subtlety, favoring prevention-first regimens that keep skin calm, balanced, and hydrated.
THE EVOLUTION OF AMERICAN BEAUTY
In contrast, for decades, American beauty has been dominated by Eurocentric standards – tanned but not dark, smooth but not shiny, youthful but not overly done. As the country’s cultural fabric has evolved, so has its relationship with skin and its perception of beauty. American beauty today reflects countless cultural influences, woven together through generations of migration and exchange. African, Latinx, and Asian traditions have reshaped the conversation, bringing new ingredients, philosophies, and aesthetics into the mainstream. “Clean beauty” and “real skin” movements have encouraged consumers to embrace individuality and authenticity. Today’s American customers are both savvy and skeptical. They crave results, but they also want transparency and products that perform without compromising ethics or inclusivity.
REDEFINING BEAUTY IN INDIA
In India, skin has long been entangled with systems of identity – caste, class, and colonial power. Fairness, in particular, has carried complex social meaning. Similarly to South Korea, rooted partly in the subcontinent’s ancient hierarchies, lighter skin was historically associated with higher caste and indoor labor, while darker complexions were linked to outdoor work and manual labor. The arrival of European colonial rule deepened this divide, embedding whiteness itself as a marker of privilege, civility, and desirability.
However, the story is ever evolving. A new generation influenced by global conversations on representation and anti-colorism is challenging the fairness narrative. Indian beauty creators and dermatologists are reframing radiance as health rather than hierarchy.
Amid these cultural shifts, ayurveda continues to offer a counterpoint. Its ancient philosophy views skin as an outward reflection of internal balance – the harmony of body, mind, and spirit. These practices reflect a holistic approach that values care, nourishment, and connection to nature more than comparison or conformity.
THE POLITICS OF SKIN IN NIGERIA
In Nigeria, skin tells a story of politics, history, and selfhood. The meanings attached to complexion reach deep into colonial and postcolonial structures, where proximity to lightness often translated to proximity to privilege. Under British rule, Eurocentric ideals of beauty and refinement became entwined with education, employment, and class, embedding colorism into social life long after independence. That legacy laid the groundwork for one of the largest skin-lightening markets in the world – a multibillion-dollar industry built on the promise of transformation.
Skin bleaching is often portrayed as a matter of vanity, but it goes much deeper than that. For many, it is tied to survival and aspiration in systems that have long equated fairness with opportunity. The desire for lighter skin reflects both hope and harm: a hope for acceptance, and the harm of internalized bias that devalues darker complexions. The products themselves often carry their own risks.
Still, change is growing from within. Across Nigeria, artists, dermatologists, and creators are using their platforms to reclaim the beauty of dark skin and challenge colorism’s hold. Campaigns have become rallying cries for visibility and pride, celebrating complexions once erased from mainstream representation. Local skin care brands are emerging as part of this cultural resistance, formulating for nourishment and health rather than erasure. In this new wave, beauty becomes an act of defiance, a declaration that dark skin is not something to correct but something to honor.
HOW CULTURE SHAPES THE INDUSTRY
For skin professionals, culture is not an abstract concept – it shows up in every treatment room. When a client shares how they want their skin to look, they are revealing more than aesthetic preferences; they are expressing identity and how they have been taught to see beauty. Asking questions like “What does healthy skin look like to you” is not just a consultation tactic, but an act of empathy that helps professionals see beyond surface-level goals.
Yet, the aesthetics industry has not always reflected this diversity in its education. The standard textbooks still center largely on white, Fitzpatrick I to III skin types. Information on how to safely and effectively treat melanated skin is often condensed into a few paragraphs or side notes, leaving students with an incomplete understanding of how pigment, inflammation, and wound healing differ across skin tones. When that foundational knowledge is missing, the consequences can be serious. There is an increasing number of clients with burns, hypopigmentation, and long-term scarring from laser and energy-based treatments performed by professionals who were never properly trained in how melanin behaves under heat or light.
Melanin-rich skin absorbs laser energy differently, and certain wavelengths or intensities that are safe for lighter skin can cause injury in darker complexions. The same goes for chemical peels and other modalities – treatments that require a nuanced understanding of barrier health, pigment pathways, and inflammation control. These are not niche skills; they are essential competencies in the aesthetics industry.
What makes this especially challenging is that most aesthetics education still treats “diverse skin” as a specialty, rather than a standard part of the curriculum. Students are often left to seek out their own continuing education, learning through workshops or from peers with lived experience. Thankfully, this is starting to change. A growing number of schools and advanced programs are prioritizing inclusive education, teaching not only the science of melanated skin, but also the cultural and historical context of beauty ideals.
This shift is about more than technique. It is about cultural competence and understanding how history, representation, and systemic bias influence how clients experience skin care. For example, many clients of color carry generational trauma from unsafe or discriminatory medical and cosmetic practices. When treatment is approached with humility and awareness, professionals help rebuild trust in a system that has not always served everyone equally. For professionals, expanding education in this area is both a responsibility and an opportunity. It allows for the prevention of harm, building of trust, and providing of care that truly honors everyone.
THE FUTURE OF BEAUTY & INCLUSIVITY
It is clear that global beauty is at a crossroads. Social media has erased borders, but it has also created new pressures. K-beauty trends appear in treatment rooms across the United States; French pharmacy skin care is coveted in Seoul. Technology is redefining aspiration faster than tradition once did. Yet this cross-cultural exchange also holds promise. The blending of philosophies – Korea’s innovation, the United States’ inclusivity, India’s holistic tradition, and Nigeria’s celebration of self – is creating a new language of beauty rooted in wellness and individuality.
Today more than ever, consumers are beginning to question one-size-fits-all ideals. Instead, they want personalization, inclusivity, and sustainability. They want products and treatments that honor their individuality. The most successful brands and professionals will be those who understand these nuances.
At the heart of the industry, skin care is not just about appearance; it is about belonging and how one feels. To see one’s skin color, condition and all, represented is to feel seen. For those in the beauty and wellness space, this evolution is both a challenge and an invitation. It asks for professionals to expand their lens and understand the cultural, historical, and emotional layers that shape how people experience their skin. Every client who walks into the treatment room carries a story – of heritage, of self-perception, of what they have been taught to believe about beauty. When professionals listen to those stories, when they create space for difference instead of standardization, this work gains deeper meaning.
At its core, skin care has always been about more than appearance. It is about comfort, confidence, and belonging. This perspective offers something far greater than market opportunity; it offers purpose. The role of skin professionals and educators is not to define beauty, but to reflect it back to clients in a way that feels honest and human. Because beauty was never meant to be universal – it was always meant to be personal, relational, and deeply human.
Resources
- Obiezu, Timothy. “Nigeria’s ‘melanin Movement’ Swims against a Skin-Whitening Tide.” Voice of America, February 11, 2019. https://www.voanews.com/a/4781292.html.
- Ikong, Violet. “Nigerian Women Fight Skin Bleaching, Colorism in Africa .” Amjambo Africa, April 15, 2022. https://www.amjamboafrica.com/auto-draft-3/.
- Abujah, Racheal. “‘Black Is Beautiful’: Nigeria’s Minister Warns against Skin Bleaching Crisis.” Science Nigeria, January 23, 2025. https://sciencenigeria.com/black-is-beautiful-nigerias-minister-warns-against-skin-bleaching-crisis/.
- Kullrich, Nina. Skin colour politics: Whiteness and beauty in India. Berlin, Germany: J.B. Metzler, 2022.
- Bhangle, Devanshi. “Facing India’s Legacy of Colourism.” MIR, March 20, 2020. https://www.mironline.ca/facing-indias-legacy-of-colourism/2.
Sarah Kinsler is a licensed aesthetician and the founder of Kin Aesthetics, a professional Korean skin care company. She lived in South Korea, where she was exposed to a different approach to skin health, one centered on consistency, education, and long-term results rather than quick fixes. That experience strongly influenced how she practices and how Kin was built. Kin Aesthetics supplies professional Korean skin care to aestheticians, with a focus on solo business owners. Beyond products, the company provides education, treatment protocols, and ongoing support to help aestheticians confidently use Korean skin care while building sustainable businesses. Kinsler’s work is rooted in practical application, clear guidance, and respect for the realities of working independently in the treatment room.
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