85% of the world’s population has melanin-rich skin. Still, many skin professionals lack confidence when treating melanin-rich skin tones despite these demographics, as most dermatology and aesthetics training materials do not deal with global majority skin needs and instead focus mainly on lighter skin tones. This systemic exclusion has created major gaps in education, research, and treatment protocols. Clients with deeper skin tones often receive suboptimal care that leads to hyperpigmentation, scarring, or other adverse effects.
The beauty and aesthetics industry continues to expand and change. True cultural competence requires more than awareness – professionals need active skill-building and evidence-based approaches. Learning about biological differences, unique concerns, and appropriate treatment modifications for melanin-rich skin helps providers achieve optimal results safely.
SERVING GLOBALLY
Expertise in caring for the melanin spectrum will only expand a service provider’s clientele as it allows them to provide the highest standard of care to everyone who walks through the door. Determining the right treatment for a skin condition depends on understanding three different characteristics that people often mix up.
Skin Color
Skin color comes from melanin, a pigment produced by special cells called melanocytes. Every human has about the same number of melanocytes, but the amount and type of melanin they make can vary. Eumelanin contributes brown-black color and natural sun protection, while pheomelanin creates yellow-red pigment with less protection. Skin can make more melanin when in the sun as a defense mechanism, but genes decide basic melanin levels.
Skin Tone
Skin tone is about the undertones that exist on their own, separate from skin color. These undertones can be warm (yellow or golden), cool (pink or blue), or neutral. Skin tone helps determine which colors and makeup shades look best on someone.
Skin Type
Skin type describes how skin behaves – whether it is oily, dry, combination, sensitive, acne-prone, or reactive. Skin type has nothing to do with how much melanin one has. Someone with a deep skin color might have dry skin, and a person with light skin could have too much oil production.
Getting these differences mixed up can cause real problems, from inadequate treatments and products that do not work to serious skin damage – especially with melanin-rich skin where issues like hyperpigmentation take a long time to fade.
WHERE PEOPLE GET IT WRONG
Misconceptions about melanin-rich skin continue to cause treatment errors and prevent proper care. These damaging myths need immediate attention.
Darker Skin Does Not Age
This widespread belief comes from the fact that higher melanin levels protect against photoaging. Melanin-rich skin does not age less – it ages differently, even though visible signs like fine lines show up later. These skin types show aging through volume loss, midface descent, and hyperpigmentation instead of wrinkles. Providers who overlook these signs miss crucial chances for preventive care.
Darker Skin Does Not Need as Much Sun Protection.
Melanin provides natural a sun protection factor of around 13, but this is not enough to protect against daily ultraviolet exposure. Sun exposure without protection makes hyperpigmentation worse, which is a major concern for people with melanin-rich skin. Regular sunscreen use helps prevent uneven skin tone and reduces melasma risks.
ON A SYSTEMIC LEVEL
The persistence of these myths reveal a bigger problem in the aesthetics field: education and research systematically exclude certain groups.
Lack of Representation
Research bias remains one of the most pressing obstacles that prevents effective treatment for global majority skin. Recent industry analyses paint a worrying picture, as less than 25% of skin care brands conduct detailed testing across all melanin levels before launching their products. This gap in inclusive testing creates real risks, especially when using active ingredients like retinoids, chemical exfoliants, and brightening agents. Products that claim to fix hyperpigmentation – a common concern for melanin-rich skin – often lack evidence that they work on the skin tones they target. These populations remain underrepresented in clinical trials. Peer-reviewed dermatological research shows the same exclusionary patterns. A study of clinical trials in major dermatology journals found that only one of these participants had Fitzpatrick skin types V to VI.
Education Gaps
Professional practice depends on educational resources, but a closer look shows concerning patterns that leave many people out. These gaps in education directly affect clinical outcomes for clients with melanin-rich skin.
Dermatology textbooks and professional resources show skin conditions mostly on light skin, which leads to missed or wrong diagnoses. A systematic review of major dermatology textbooks revealed that only 4.5% of images showed skin conditions on darker skin tones. This lack of representation creates a dangerous gap in knowledge. Medical professionals who learn from these materials tend to struggle with identifying conditions like psoriasis, eczema, or even melanomas on melanin-rich skin. Erythema (redness) looks different on various skin tones. It can appear purple, dark brown, or even gray on deeper skin tones, which makes visual diagnosis difficult without proper training.
Adapted treatment protocols are sorely needed. Standard treatment guidelines come from studies that mostly focus on lighter skin types and need adjustments. Practitioners must modify laser settings, chemical peel formulations, and microneedling protocols to avoid harmful reactions. Traditional education infrequently covers these vital adaptations, so service providers must seek specialized training independently.
Learning and observing diverse skin tones requires constant attention. Practitioners need more than just critical thinking skills; they must keep learning beyond their basic training. They should take specialized courses, follow experts who study melanin-rich skin, and track client feedback to build their expertise. This learning journey requires humility; professionals should recognize where their formal training falls short and work hard to improve those areas.
UNIQUE CONSIDERATIONS
Melanin-rich skin deserves more than a deficit-focused approach. Understanding its unique biological features helps provide truly appropriate care.
Biological Differences
Melanin-rich skin has unique biological characteristics that affect treatment approaches and outcomes. Active melanocytes respond strongly to inflammation, trauma, and ultraviolet exposure. Professional treatments can trigger post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation that persists for months or years. Melanocytes are highly responsive to cytokine signaling during skin trauma, which amplifies the inflammatory response.
Global majority skin types also have higher rates of keloid formation, driven by differences in fibroblast activity and collagen production during wound healing. Genetically increased production of transforming growth factor-beta (TGF-β) in melanin-rich skin promotes excessive scar tissue that extends beyond the original wound edges.
Light and heat energy absorption by melanin increases the risk of thermal injury during laser treatments in global majority skin. This protective mechanism shields DNA from ultraviolet damage effectively, but it makes energy-based treatments more complex.
Common Concerns & Evidence-Based Protocols
Hyperpigmentation remains the primary concern for most Black, Indigenous, and people of color (BIPOC) clients. Melasma presents as symmetrical patches on the cheeks, forehead, and upper lip and affects up to 40% of people with global majority skin, with increased prevalence during pregnancy or hormonal changes. Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation often follows acne, eczema, or aggressive treatments and tends to persist longer in melanin-rich skin due to heightened melanocyte activity. These conditions require patience, consistent treatment, and diligent sun protection.
Contrary to common belief, melanin-rich skin can react more intensely to chemical exfoliation. Mandelic acid is better tolerated than glycolic acid, which may trigger inflammation and worsen hyperpigmentation. Vitamin C derivatives, such as tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, provide gentler support than L-ascorbic acid. Chemical peels require lower concentrations and shorter contact times, with mandelic acid typically used at 20% to 25% and trichloroacetic acid (TCA) kept below 15%. Treatments should be spaced four to six weeks apart, favoring layered mild peels over aggressive single sessions to minimize inflammation while achieving results.
Hair structure also varies by ethnicity, with BIPOC clients often having coarser, curlier hair that grows at shallower angles, increasing the risk of ingrown hairs after shaving or waxing. Laser hair removal is safest and most effective using longer wavelengths, particularly the 1064-nanometer neodymium-doped yttrium aluminium garnet (Nd:YAG) laser, which bypasses epidermal melanin to reach the follicle. Alexandrite (755 nanometers) and intense pulsed light (IPL) systems carry higher risk of burns and hyperpigmentation. Reduced fluencev – 30% to 50% lower than settings for lighter skin – and longer pulse durations help limit epidermal heating.
All new global majority clients should undergo patch testing on a discreet area, such as behind the ear or along the jawline, with observation over 48 to 72 hours. Successful tests allow for gradual expansion of treatment areas, reducing adverse reactions while building client confidence.
PROFESSIONAL PRODUCTS & INGREDIENTS
Ingredients That Work Well
The right ingredients are the lifeblood of effective treatments for global majority skin. Good formulations tackle common concerns and minimize unwanted reactions. Ingredients that target hyperpigmentation without causing inflammation are a great way to get results for melanin-rich skin. Niacinamide (vitamin B3) excels at blocking melanosome transfer and strengthens barrier function at the same time. Tranexamic acid delivers powerful anti-inflammatory benefits among other melanin-inhibiting properties. Alpha arbutin and kojic acid gently inhibit tyrosinase without the irritation risks that come with hydroquinone.
Melanin-rich skin needs a delicate approach to exfoliation. Mandelic acid’s larger molecular structure lets it penetrate slowly, which reduces irritation risks. Lactic acid combines exfoliation with hydration benefits. Polyhydroxy acids (gluconolactone and lactobionic acid) provide gentle exfoliation plus antioxidant benefits. Enzymes from papaya and pineapple work as alternatives that break down proteins without disturbing skin’s pH balance.
Barrier integrity matters more than correction in many cases. Ceramides balance lipid levels, while peptides boost structural components. Panthenol (provitamin B5) goes deep into skin to draw in moisture and calm irritation. Centella asiatica extracts make capillary walls stronger, which reduces inflammatory responses that cause hyperpigmentation.
Use With Caution
Alpha and beta hydroxy acids are excellent exfoliants but can be risky at high concentrations. Glycolic acid’s small molecular structure lets it penetrate too quickly and aggressively for melanin-rich skin. The best approach is to keep concentrations below 10% at the time of starting treatment and adjust based on individual tolerance. Salicylic acid shows good results at 0.5% to 1% concentrations; the standard 2% formula might trigger post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation in global majority skin types.
Retinoids are gold standard ingredients that boost cellular turnover and benefit all skin tones, but their potential for irritation calls for a careful approach. Starting with retinol derivatives, like retinyl palmitate or retinaldehyde, works better than jumping straight to stronger formulations. Treatment should begin with twice-weekly applications, building up to alternate days as their skin adapts. Even prescription-strength retinoids can work beautifully on melanin-rich skin when introduced gradually with proper barrier support.
CULTURAL COMPETENCE
Cultural competence starts when professionals recognize their biases and assumptions while working with global majority skin. Professionals’ expertise should go beyond technical skills and include conscious communication practices. Never make treatment decisions just by looking at melanin levels. Sometimes, practitioners recommend brightening treatments to clients with melanin-rich skin without asking about their concerns. A client with deeper skin tones might want hydration solutions or antiaging treatments instead of hyperpigmentation correction. Each client deserves a full assessment, regardless of their ethnicity or skin color.
Recognizing Implicit Bias & Building Trust
Only when professionals are willing to acknowledge implicit bias can they take meaningful action beyond simple awareness. A spa’s visual representation deserves a closer look at every customer touchpoint. Business owners should take time to review their website images, social media presence, and printed materials to ensure they reflect diverse skin tones and hair textures. Global majority clients often feel invisible in aesthetics spaces; proper representation builds trust immediately.
The words professionals choose shape both perception and experience. Professionals should remove outdated terms like “ethnic skin” or “exotic features” from their vocabulary right away. These phrases position global majority skin as different from an implied standard. The better approach uses specific, scientific terminology (Fitzpatrick types, melanin-rich) and culturally sensitive descriptions that clients prefer.
PROFESSIONAL ACCOUNTABILITY
Professional education is essential for providing competent, evidence-based care for global majority skin. Skin professionals must go beyond basic training by pursuing specialized education focused on biological differences, culturally appropriate communication, and safe treatment protocols, supported by hands-on experience with diverse skin tones. Detailed clinical documentation – including before-and-after images, treatment protocols, healing responses, and client feedback – serves as both an educational and research tool, revealing patterns across Fitzpatrick types that formal literature often overlooks. Combined with peer discussion, research engagement, and participation in professional communities, this real-world data allows practitioners to refine protocols and advocate for safer, more inclusive industry standards by supporting brands that prioritize diverse clinical testing. These efforts transform professional accountability into actionable care, ensuring every client receives treatment rooted in evidence and equity.
A BETTER WAY FORWARD
Skin professionals have an ethical responsibility to provide competent, informed care for global majority skin. The biology of melanin-rich skin requires specialized approaches, not adaptations of protocols designed for lighter skin tones. Recognizing increased risks for hyperpigmentation, distinct treatment responses, and persistent misconceptions is essential to delivering safe and effective outcomes for BIPOC clients.
Progress depends on evidence-based protocols developed specifically for melanin-rich skin. Patch testing, gradual treatment progression, and meticulous result tracking build both safety and expertise. Equally important are examining personal bias, using inclusive language, and ensuring representation throughout the practice – steps that foster trust with clients who have long felt overlooked in traditional aesthetic spaces.
True proficiency in global majority skin care extends beyond basic education. It demands ongoing specialization, data-driven refinement across skin tones, and advocacy for inclusive research and product development. Skin professionals are uniquely positioned to challenge exclusionary standards and elevate care through daily clinical decisions. When aesthetics embraces the full spectrum of human skin, excellence becomes not only possible – but equitable.
References
- Jafarzadeh, Alireza, Seyed Soheil Hoseini, Elham Behrangi, Masoumeh Roohaninasab, and Azadeh Goodarzi. “Effectiveness of Regenerative Medicine for Skin Lightening and Rejuvenation: A Systematic Review of Extracellular Vesicles and Conditioned Media.” Stem Cell Research & Therapy 16, no. 1 (September 26, 2025). https://doi.org/10.1186/s13287-025-04592-z.
- “UCSF Guides: Anti-Racism Resources at UCSF Library: Inclusive Skin Color Project.” Inclusive Skin Color Project – Anti-Racism Resources at UCSF Library – UCSF Guides at University of California, San Francisco. Accessed December 19, 2025. https://guides.ucsf.edu/anti-racism/iscp.
- “Inclusive Aesthetic Practices for Skin of Colour.” Inclusive Aesthetic Practices for Skin of Colour. Accessed December 19, 2025. https://www.hamiltonfraser.co.uk/content-hub/treating-patients-with-skin-of-colour-in-aesthetic-medicine.
- “Dermalogica Launches New Course on Treating Melanin-Rich Skin.” Practical Dermatology, February 7, 2023. https://practicaldermatology.com/news/dermalogica-launches-new-course-on-treating-melanin-rich-skin/2461545/.
- “Confronting Biases to Improve Patient Care.” Practical Dermatology. Accessed December 19, 2025. https://practicaldermatology.com/topics/practice-management/confronting-biases-to-improve-patient-care/23501/.
- Moolla, Siddiq, and Yvette Miller-Monthrope. “Dermatology: How to Manage Facial Hyperpigmentation in Skin of Colour.” Drugs in Context 11 (May 31, 2022): 1–14. https://doi.org/10.7573/dic.2021-11-2.
- Cole, Patrick, Daniel Hatef, Susan Taylor, and Jamal Bullocks. “Skin Care in Ethnic Populations.” Seminars in Plastic Surgery 23, no. 03 (July 13, 2009): 168–72. https://doi.org/10.1055/s-0029-1224795.
- “Treating Skin of Colour.” Black Skin Directory. https://training.blackskindirectory.com/courses/treating-skin-of-colour.
- “PCA Skin : Diversity in Esthetics Scholarship.” Beauty Changes Lives, June 1, 2023. https://beautychangeslives.org/pca-skin/.
- “Adult Acne Treatment Dermatologists Recommend.” American Academy of Dermatology, n.d. https://www.aad.org/public/diseases/acne/diy/adult-acne-treatment.
- Seladi-Schulman, Jill. “Hyperpigmentation on Black Skin.” Healthline, April 18, 2025. https://www.healthline.com/health/skin/hyperpigmentation-on-black-skin.
Nichelle Mosley is an international award-winning licensed aesthetician, corneotherapy specialist, social-emotional learning and somatic facilitator. As the founder of The Skin Barrier Academy, she empowers educators and school communities to enhance well-being through corneotherapy and whole-person wellness. Mosley is also a published author of “Advanced Ayurvedic Face Mapping” (2022) and a contributor to DERMASCOPE Magazine and O! Magazine. She has extensive experience in medical aesthetics, specializing in treatments like CoolSculpting, microneedling, and laser therapy. With certifications in corneotherapy, nutrition, and trichology, she is dedicated to providing balanced, sustainable, and inclusive wellness solutions.
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