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Before the Peel: Is the Skin Barrier Ready? 

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A skin peel, also known as a chemical peel, is a science-based treatment that, when properly administered, offers one of the most powerful, non-surgical skin results available. Peels involve the application of highly specialized acid or even enzyme solutions to remove cellular buildup and stimulate new cell development – essentially shedding skin to reveal visible improvements. 

When this kind of controlled injury is introduced to skin, there is a natural wound healing process that begins. A reduction in wrinkles, fine lines, pore size, and bacteria, and an improvement in texture, tone, and hydration for a more vibrant, healthy, younger-looking appearance can all occur. This wound healing process is essential and, when the barrier is healthy, it is able to go through the stages of wound healing for beautiful results (along with proper post-care, of course). When the skin barrier is not healthy, this wound healing process caused by the peel can create damage and long-term sensitivities, essentially giving the skin more problems.  

 

HEALING & HEALTHY  

Skin is the largest organ of the body, and a healthy, functioning barrier should always be the priority when it comes to treating skin. Skin professionals have a responsibility to protect and bring health to the barrier as it serves an important role in protecting us from toxins, bacteria, infection, water loss, DNA-damaging elements, and so much more. The stronger the barrier, the slower skin ages, the less sensitive it is, and the more it functions at its highest ability. 

When the barrier function is disrupted, skin becomes highly sensitive and quick to react to inferior products – this is the same reaction following chemical peels. Healthy barriers allow skin to respond to alleviate sensitivities and, with appropriate post-care formulas, strengthen new cells. On the flip side, if skin is already in a compromised state, a chemical peel can worsen and actually damage the barrier long-term.     

 

GETTING STRONGER 

If skin is sensitive and in a compromised state, it is important to begin to strengthen the barrier prior to any peels. The dermal layer of skin (the inner layer of the two main layers of skin which includes connective tissue, blood vessels, oil and other structures), is the foundation of a strong epidermal layer (the thin, outer layer of skin that is visible to the eye) and a properly functioning barrier. Think of the dermis’ existence to heal, protect, and feed the epidermis.   

The dermis needs and uses resources to provide healthy collagen, elastin, hyaluronic acid, and blood vessels for the epidermis and the new cells making their way to the barrier. The fibroblast cells in the dermis can become depleted by external elements like pollution or over-exfoliating and internal elements like stress and slow cellular energy. The application of encapsulated retinaldehyde, stem cells, growth factors, and pyruvic acid can restore and fortifythe dermis while optimizing cellular energy and function. 

The epidermis layer needs attention, too, and relies on an abundance of resources, like topical vitamins and antioxidants. Vitamins A, C, and E offer both strengthening and antioxidant properties. In addition, these nutrients assist in thickening the dermal layer, defending against free radical damage, and healing weakened barriers. Addressing lipids and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) is a vital part of strengthening the barrier. Various humectants, organic oils, and omegas bind and seal moisture into depleted skin, increasing hydration levels, improving overall barrier function, and reducing irritation and reactiveness. 

 

THE PEEL SOLUTION 

This might seem like an oxymoron, but mitosis gives the opportunity to support and strengthen new cells. Fibroblast cells are essential for healthy mitosis, and one of the best ingredients to give resources to the fibroblast cells is vitamin A. Another key ingredient is growth factors, which are initiated in both dermis and epidermis and will strengthen new cells.  Skin that is compromised (a vulnerable barrier) should be built up for two weeks with focused homecare, followed by a series of vitamin A peels – not just any peel – along with critical post-care to rebuild, strengthen, and bring health to skin! Vitamin A peel rejuvenation series is considered no downtime, gentler in the wound aspect, and highly rebuilding for skin. 

Remember, in most cases, a chemical peel breaks down the barrier and creates a wound – skin already broken down or in a wounded state will exacerbate the problem and, in many cases, leave long-term damage. Build the barrier first for long-term healthy results and beautiful skin! 

Shannon Esau is the CEO and national educator at Rhonda Allison Skin Care Cosmeceuticals where she oversees the company’s strategic growth, development of new product formulations and innovations, and the educational and instructional programming, which is offered to aesthetics professionals around the globe. She brings over 25 years’ experience in the aesthetic industry, as well as a strong background in business and corporate development and growth. 

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