10 Things About… Lashes and Brows

The last decade has seen monumental changes in eyelash and eyebrow services, some of which are driven by improvements in technology, trends from the runway, the economy, improvements in global communication, and even socio-political advancements.

However, upon close examination, many experts feel that the most significant changes have come as a result of two or more of these factors converging into the perfect storm of events that resulted in the creation of new industries and/or the revival of those which had remained dormant for generations.

1. In 2004, eyelash extensions started as an underground service spawned by the first website devoted to the subject. While the theory of the extensions and some rudimentary, unsuccessful technology previously existed, the service did not show signs of catching on until 2009, when the recession left many skin care specialists scrambling to find new business opportunities. Despite miserable economic conditions, eyelashes became responsible for keeping many spas and salons open.

2. While traditional eyelash strips had not been marketable since the late 1960s, the introduction of strand by strand extensions slowly warmed consumers to the idea of revisiting false eyelashes. As a result, the all but dead eyelash strip industry was revived. Thanks to the creation of YouTube in 2005, a new generation was given the tools to master the tricky application of the strips.

3. In March of 2009, Allergan, the pharmaceutical giant responsible for creating Botox, released a cosmetic preparation of a glaucoma medication known for boosting eyelash length, pigmentation, and thickness. Despite doctors’ warnings that the prostaglandin used in these products could potentially cause irreversible side effects, like dark under-eye circles, over-the-counter knock-offs began to hit the market, adding yet another pillar to the foundation that has made eyelashes a separate industry.

4. Studies show that while mascara is the most essential part of many women’s beauty routine, it can also be the most time consuming product to apply, due to clumping, smearing and the need to use a curler. Now that more extensionists are becoming aware of the three-length bonding technique and because Russian volume techniques have been replaced by methods that do not leave visibly-obvious gaps, consumers can now forgo both mascara and eyeliner for weeks.

5. The power eyebrow that was popularized by Brooke Shields in the early 1980s has made a comeback, thanks in part to British supermodel and actress Cara Delevigne, whose thick, bushy eyebrows even have their own Twitter account. Both eyelash and eyebrow services have grown to complement each other because the current popularity of over-the-top fake eyelashes require a slightly bolder eyebrow to frame them.

6. There is quite a bit of debate regarding the ideal eyebrow look; since many consumers fill in their own eyebrows at home, chosen styles have almost become a means of artistic self-expression. Ten years ago, consumers were not open to incorporating tricks from drag makeup, like faded or ombre eyebrows, but times have changed. While there are professionals who are offended by heavy, block-shaped, painted-on styles and trends, like faded eyebrows, the consensus from both sides of the thick/thin eyebrow argument seems to be that people should do what makes them feel like themselves.

7. For those looking to add fullness to their eyebrows, there are some interesting, new options available. While most of these supposedly new techniques have actually been practiced for decades, they are now more mainstream. Eyebrow extensions, for example, have been available for more than a decade, but have not completely taken off because the adhesives tend to peel, crack, and flake soon after application. Another option is semi-permanent hair stroke, or microblading. While it has been around for decades, permanent makeup artists now have enough experience under their belts to deliver better results than they did 15 years ago.

8. Eyebrow shapes seem to be less controversial than thickness. The most notable change is that eyebrows are getting slightly straighter and flatter than in years past. Sculpted arches are no longer the obvious choice for all face shapes. While high arches can help slim round, wide faces, those with oval or narrow face shapes can benefit from the horizontal lines created by straight eyebrows, which help to widen the eye area. This trend might have made its way from beauty-obsessed Korea, where it has been the go-to style for at least 10 years.

9. The ancient art of threading has become more popular lately, as have eyebrow-shaping services that use tweezers. Since consumers are removing less hair from their eyebrows than they did in the 1990s, when wax ruled, using tweezers and threading makes sense.

10. In the future, if the fashion industry asserts their influence, fuller, more natural eyebrows that have a bit of strategically placed, delicate, soft stray hairs in the lower arch will be popular. Many runway models are now sporting this style, which is reminiscent of the soft shape of  a child’s eyebrows. In the past, grooming was designed to clean up every single stray hair and create clean edges.

Consumers have spoken and eyelash extensions are here to stay. Just like with eyebrows and nails, expect the next decade or two to waffle regarding the length and thickness of eyelash styles. Eyelashes and eyebrows are following a similar business model to that of the nail industry. Separate eyelash and eyebrow salons are opening, state boards are creating specialty licenses, regulations are becoming clearer, and beauty schools are incorporating extensive eyelash extension programs. Professionals who focus on good education will be well prepared to meet future needs of consumers who prefer long, dramatic lashes, as well as shorter, natural styles.

Sophy Merszei, CEO of NovaLash, trained as a molecular biologist at the University of Southern California and The University of Houston. She later went on to study cosmetic chemistry at UCLA. In 2004, three years into a Ph.D. in molecular biology, Merszei came across eyelash extension products from Korea that did not work properly and were thought by the Korean government to contain high levels formaldehyde. This led Merszei to create the first global distribution network for eyelash extension products and training. She has many pending and issued patents and has gone on to study intellectual property at Harvard Business School. Along with a team of doctors, she authored the first school textbook dedicated to eyelash extension application and successfully passed a bill in the Texas Legislature to create a specialty license for eyelash technicians.