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Saturday, 14 May 2011 14:44

Skin Care Treatments - The New Wave...

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The skin care industry has come a long way since the days of the mini facial and the basic bikini wax. Sure, in many salons and spas around the globe these simple procedures may still stand strong and actually be the "bread and butter" of the institution. However, it is unlikely that these treatments alone are what give your spa the edge it requires to be able to stay competitive with neighboring salon businesses and attract new clients to your facility.

Perhaps what sets your business above the rest is that you offer a signature facial that includes a special rubber mask or a unique massage technique. Or maybe, during the holiday season you offer a pumpkin enzyme in place of your regular enzyme because the warm scent of pumpkin pie during the winter months suits the season well.
With the economic downturn in recent years, most spa owners have experienced a decrease in the number of clients that they cater to and the amount spent by the client in the spa has most probably declined as well. The extravagant treatments that your clients have become accustomed to receiving have no doubt taken a back seat to more significant financial responsibilities such as mortgages, car payments, and other vital expenses. While many may not be able to indulge in their spa rituals as decadently as they once did, they will still find it essential to maintain the beauty and health of their skin. This is the perfect opportunity for the spa to implement new treatments that can help balance and correct the client's individual skin type and conditions like never before. With modalities and skin care products that are able to treat the skin on a cellular level, you can give your clients truly corrective procedures that yield powerful results. That, coupled with an effective home care program and reasonable rates, will surely benefit both the customer and the spa.

Prior to making alterations to your line up of spa services, perhaps it is best to start by taking a good look at your service menu and ascertain which services are doing well, which ones can use improvement, and what you are missing. You may want to gain some feedback from clients. Your clients can be an invaluable source when it comes to designing your treatments. Who better to obtain feedback from than the very individuals who seek your services? Your "bread and butter" are the services that help to carry your business financially and have been proven to be popular with the clients. If these services are still high on the request list and are financially profitable, there is probably no need to alter them. Allowing your clients to have a voice when it comes to the implementation of your new services will prove to be a huge asset. By surveying your clients' needs you will be able to create an array of corrective treatments that are unique and beneficial. Additionally, it is wise to visit other spas in your community to find out what new treatments they offer and what they charge. It may behoove you to receive a service or two. This will give you a sense of what your spa may be missing out on.
By evaluating carefully the needs of your clients you will gather enough information and be able to put a fresh, new service menu into action. Ask yourself and the other professionals who work in the spa such questions as, do a large percentage of our clients suffer from hyperpigmentation? If the answer is yes, a treatment plan that helps to diminish and control the problem, followed by supportive home care should be considered. Maybe many of your clients complain of the unsightly couperose that plagues their cheek area. Or, you may cater to a large group of teens who are battling acne. Whatever the skin care dilemma that you come across frequently when dealing with your clients, the information you get and careful examination of their skin will help you to effectively implement and execute these new treatments with great solution. Furthermore you may want to consider add-on services. Allow the clients to build their own facials with the help of your expert direction.
This concept is very well received especially by those on a strict budget. Starting with a basic facial, you can provide a list of extra services at an additional cost that can be added dependent upon the need of the client's skin and their financial budget. The treatments can be tailored to suit their individual concerns and may be as simple or involved as necessary.

Like with all skin care products and modalities, the aesthetician must first gain the knowledge and hands-on experience necessary prior to performing any treatment. Any contraindications and precautions that a client may have must also be taken into consideration. The following is a list of add-on services that you may want to consider offering in your spa, categorized below:

The Improvement of Fine Lines, Texture, and Hyperpigmentation
Microdermabrasion:

Microdermabrasion is a modality that began its popularity in the early 1990s. The first generation microdermabrasion machine used crystals and is still used today with great results. The micro- crystals are often made of aluminum oxide, magnesium oxide, or sodium bicarbonate. The machine sprays and circulates high-pressure crystal flow onto the skin, thereby providing a light sand blasting effect. The suction attachment picks up the crystals and transports them into a glass container. They are then subsequently disposed of after the completion of the treatment. The Diamond-microdermabrasion is another modality that is quickly gaining popularity. The Diamond machine is normally performed with the assistance of a wand that has a micro-diamond encrusted tip. The wand is attached to the machine and is accompanied by a light vacuum suction. The diamond tip is gently passed over the skin in each area several times abrading the skin and leaving a smooth, translucent appearance. Both types of microdermabrasion can be used solo or in conjunction with another facial treatment. Microdermabrasion helps soften fine lines as its abrasive nature helps in the stimulation of fibroblast cells which secrete collagen. It also helps to improve the overall integrity and texture, minimize the appearance of enlarged follicles and superficial scars, and lighten hyperpigmented areas. It is most effective when used on the face, neck, décolleté, and the backs of the hands but can be used on other external body parts as well. As with all treatments, you will want to check with other neighboring spa businesses and see what they charge to be able to have a realistic idea of what you may want to charge at your facility. Other factors that you will want to consider are, the amount it will cost to perform the procedure, your location, and what your market will bear.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) Peels:
Alpha hydroxy acids are a special group or organic acids. They are naturally occurring in fruits and other food sources. Synthetically produced compounds are what are used in skin care. Although there are a plethora of great exfoliating agents produced by skin care manufacturers and available to the aesthetician, I am going to focus on glycolic acid and lactic acid. These peeling agents can be applied in greater strength when they are used as a stand alone treatment rather than an add-on to a facial. However, if they are going to be incorporated into a facial, the pH and percentage should be weaker so that it does not over-stimulate the skin. Glycolic acid, an ingredient that gained a great deal of recognition in the late 1980s and early 1990s for helping improve acne and aged skin, is still frequently used today both in the clinic and in home care products. Lactic acid is multifaceted. It is more gentle and a better choice for sensitive skin. Besides its excellent exfoliating capabilities, lactic acid also has a hydrating and lightening effect on the skin. Either one of these AHAs can be used in place of the exfoliation portion of a facial.

Regeneration of Skin Tissue and Toning
Microcurrent:

Microcurrent uses micro amps to help stimulate ATP, the major source of energy for cellular reactions and synthesis of protein. In the spa, microcurrent can help to regenerate and tone facial and body muscles and stimulate fibroblasts which help to improve collagen and elastin in the skin as well as accelerate healing. Usually several sessions are necessary to be able to obtain the best results and on-going monthly procedures are recommended for maintenance. Microcurrent is sometimes called the non-surgical facelift.

Light Emitting Diodes:
Light Emitting Diodes (LED), sometimes called photo stimulation, can be used in many facets of skin care. The concept of LED is the transfer of light energy into cellular energy for its healing and regenerative properties. LEDs are part of the visible light spectrum with nanometers between 400 and about 700. Red and amber visible light with nanometers between approximately 575 to 700 help to stimulate the skin by increasing lymph flow, activate ATP to release energy which in turn provides the skin with the ability to repair itself. Initially you may have the client come in once a week or twice a month depending on the client's skin condition and the strength of the equipment being used. Normally after several months the treatment frequency can be reduced to once a month. LED therapy is non-ablative and there is no downtime.

Relaxation
Facial, Scalp, and Acupressure Massage:

Any of the above massage treatments can make for a relaxing treat for almost anyone. These services can be incorporated together or you may want to offer them individually. You may also choose to add a drop of your client's favorite aromatherapy scent to about one tablespoon of massage oil for an extra touch. When choosing an essential oil, make sure that the oil that is selected is calming rather than stimulating or your client may have a difficult time relaxing.

Acne and Problematic Skin
High Frequency Treatment:

The high frequency machine (Tesla) has been used for years to help destroy bacteria on the skin as well as regulate sebum. Many aestheticians use this modality during or after the facial treatment. It can be utilized as an add-on to a basic facial that does not normally include this treatment, for an individual who has acne or the occasional pimple. Fulguration (sparking) can be quite useful after skin extractions or over a pustule to help oxygenate the bacteria on the skin. This can destroy the anaerobic bacteria that has an adversity to oxygen, thus helping the skin to heal more rapidly.

Blue LED Treatment:
Blue LED with nanometers between 435 and 500 helps to destroy bacteria on the skin and soothe inflamed skin thereby diffusing erythema. It is used by many hospitals in the treatment of acne.

Extraction of Skin Congestion:
While most facials include extraction of skin congestion, some do not. This treatment is beneficial for the client who needs the occasional extraction treatment but may not require it every month.

Alpha and Beta Hydroxy Peels:
I previously discussed the benefits of the AHA peels for their regenerative effects. AHAs such as glycolic and lactic can also aide in the treatment and prevention of problematic skin. By accelerating cell turnover, the peels can help eliminate clogged follicles thereby decreasing the chance of breakouts, refining the texture of the skin, as well as help minimize post inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Salicylic acid, a well known Beta hydroxy acid (BHA), helps to exfoliate as well as decrease the amount of oil on the skin and acts as an anti-inflammatory.

Other
Custom Aromatherapy Masks:

There are a number of skin care manufacturers who sell masks that can be boosted with a serum for the client's individual skin condition. A simple yet unique idea is to prepare customized masks. Incorporate a base of clay powder and add either a small amount of distilled water or an unsaturated fatty oil and one drop of essential oil. The essential oil should suit the client's skin type and the scent should be amenable to the client.

Manual Lymphatic Drainage :
This massage technique can help to rid the skin of edema, assist in detoxification, and help to clear inflamed acne. It can replace the massage portion of a facial. There are many methods of lymph massage practiced today, although the Vodder method is probably the most well known. Having an understanding of the lymphatic system and acquiring training is essential prior to practicing this advantageous procedure.

Eye Treatments:
The eye area is one area that shows the signs of aging faster than any other. There are a variety of treatments that can be utilized for this delicate region. This includes active ingredients beneficial for the eye area found in soft masks, rubber masks, cloth masks, serums, and ampoules that are transported into the skin by the use of some type of active transport, such as ultrasound.

By allowing your clients to have some control, you will insure that they are able to receive the skin care that they require, create greater customer loyalty, and the spa will subsequently retain their business.
Whether you have been in the skin care industry for many years, or you are a newcomer, one thing is for sure, if you want to remain competitive, progressive, and at the top of your game, you must be creative. Today's clients are often looking for treatments and services that make a real difference and have a lasting effect. Spas that offer treatments that are corrective in nature, are often the ones that are most sought after. With all of the various high tech equipment, clinical skin care products, and innovative spa techniques available to us, the aesthetician can be a greater asset to their clients than they ever have been before. Being able to implement new procedures is only a matter of gaining the appropriate advanced training and/or certification as well as making sure that whatever treatment you want to perform, you will be operating within your scope of practice. This means what your state board allows you to practice under your state license, which varies from one state to the next.

The times are changing and so should the way you approach your business strategies. Savvy business owners know that staying one step ahead of the rest is what will keep them in the game.

Michele Phelan has been a licensed, practicing aesthetician for over 20 years. She has taught State Board, CIDESCO, and post-graduate aesthetics. She has extensive knowledge of dermatological topics, cosmetic chemistry, electrical modalities, and physiology/anatomy. Phelan is an International CIDESCO diplomat, and a registered aromatherapist. Her articles have been featured in many industry publications. She has been interviewed by CBS for her extensive knowledge of eye lash extensions. She is the co-owner of Concepts Skin Care Clinic in San Francisco, Calif. and the founder and president of Concepts Institute of Advanced Esthetics located in South San Francisco, Calif. Concepts Institute is an approved NCEA training facility. For more information, please visit www.conceptsinstitute.com.

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