Monday, 23 June 2008 15:07

Niacin: More Than Anti-Aging

Written by   Jeri Ross

I am not a chemist by trade, but rather a curious explorer of human biology and, more specifically, cellular metabolism. I am fascinated with how our biology so magically works, and I find the discovery process endlessly entertaining. It doesn’t surprise me that my second career is taking me towards cosmetic product formulations and that science is driving my abilities to create advanced corrective products that impact cellular health and anti-aging.While researching active ingredients to address inflammation, I stumbled on a patent abstract written by an 82-year-old man about a form of niacin that, when applied topically, acts as a vasodilator to increase circulation.

His research studies also focused on how topical niacin acts as a carrier for improved penetration of vitamins and other micronutrients.

These days we are seeing more and more cosmeceutical skin care and body care products with various forms of niacin in their formulations. According to dermatologist, Zoe Draelos, M.D., “Therapeutic effects of niacinamide will continue to rise”. From my research and from having formulated an effective cellulite product using niacin, I better understand why this vital nutrient is gaining attention in the skin care industry. So, what is so ‘hot’ about niacin and what is it anyway? Let’s take a look at the role that niacin plays in human cellular biology and the active properties that it contributes in skin care treatment formulations.

What is Niacin

Vitamin B3 (niacin) is one of eight water-soluble B vitamins. Niacin plays an important role in ridding the body of toxic and harmful chemicals. It also helps the body make various sex and stress related hormones in the adrenal glands. Niacin is effective in improving circulation and reducing cholesterol levels in the blood. Much research is underway to substantiate the healing properties of niacin for high cholesterol, atherosclerosis, diabetes, osteoarthritis, cataracts, and burns. It is also being researched for use in skin care products as an anti-aging agent, for treatment of acne and possibly for prevention of skin cancer. To understand why niacin is an emerging therapeutic ingredient, it is important to review how this potent active vitamin behaves interactively with cells and skin structures.

How Aging Affects the Skin

As people age, progressive changes in the skin occur. During the normal aging process, both the epidermis and dermis become thinner with a loss of cell numbers and connective tissue. This cellular deterioration of skin structures leads to facial wrinkles and is a cofactor in causing cellulite. Also, exposure to ultraviolet sun radiation is a major source of skin oxidative stress that leads to loss of skin cells, age spots, actinic keratosis, and skin cancer. The question is, how can niacin address these concerns?

How Can Niacin Help

Repair and maintenance of healthy skin is dependent upon supplies of many essential nutrients to cellular components, as well as the efficient removal of waste products such as carbon dioxide, and other metabolic end products. An optimal supply of oxygen is required in order to support these natural, metabolic cellular functions. This is where niacin comes in. It is desirable to formulate skin and body care products that work in tandem with cellular biology to improve and prevent skin conditions, like aging. Niacin increases capillary dilation, which in turn increases blood flow or what is known as vasodilation. Our bodies are composed of over 70 trillion cells that rely on fully functioning capillaries for survival, including skin cells. Skin care treatment formulations that contain topical niacin derivatives enhance oxygenation of the dermis, due to increased circulation resulting in what I call, ‘happy cells’.

Medical and aesthetic practitioners are already realizing some benefits from using niacin in the treatment of skin conditions. Dr. Draelos, a pioneer in the field of niacin application, explains: “Niacin is thought to modulate skin leptin levels and alter cellular communication. We believe niacinamide, a derivative of niacin, acts as a topical anti-inflammatory, to speed cell turnover.” Dermatologist Leslie Baumann, M.D., speaking at the American Academy of Dermatology’s annual 2003 meeting stated: “New studies have shown that niacin is beneficial to the skin, specifically for problems involving pigmentation and dry skin. This could become another promising treatment for aging skin, which often becomes dry and flaky as we get older.” Niacinamide, as well, has shown to be an effective skin-lightening agent, and due to its anti-inflammatory properties, it is being tested as a possible treatment for acne and rosacea.

Niacin and Cellulite

It should be noted here that in facial products, it is preferable to gain the healing properties of niacin, without that signature ‘niacin flush’. When taken orally, niacin typically causes a systemic rosy to red flush, heats up the body, and may also promote sweating around the head and neck areas. Niacinamide is engineered to prevent the niacin flush. However, it still retains the therapeutic properties of the vitamin. For body treatment products, a localized flush is desirable, indicating an immediate increase in circulation. For addressing the treatment of cellulite, increased circulation promotes healthy cellular metabolism and aids in reducing inflammation caused by engorged fat cells. Clients tolerate it well, as long as they know to expect the red appearance as being the desired activity versus an allergic reaction. I have termed the experience a ‘flush-rush’ due to the instant physical stimulation and energy burst you feel from increased circulation and thermal body heat it produces in the treated areas. The flush lasts for approximately 20 to 30 minutes.

The Future of Niacin

In conclusion, more research is needed to better understand all of the physiological benefits of niacin for corrective skin and body conditions. The future promise of this amazing vitamin is already upon us. Vitamin B3 is considered by most to be the major B vitamin required for a healthy existence. What better than to utilize a nutrient that our bodies already recognize as cell-friendly for topical, therapeutic product formulations. So, next time you see an anti-aging skin care moisturizer or cellulite product with niacin, give it a try. As we know, the truth resides in the results. I don’t think you’ll be disappointed.

 

References

Brown BG, Zhao XQ, Chalt A, et al. Simvastatin and niacin, antioxidant vitamins, or the combination for the prevention of coronary disease. N Engl J Med. 2001;345(22):1583-1592.

Capuzzi DM, Guyton JR, Morgan JM, et al. Efficacy and safety of an extended-release niacin (Niaspan): a long-term study. Am J Cardiol. Dec 17, 1998;82:74U–81U.

Cumming RG, Mitchell P, Smith W. Diet and cataract: the Blue Mountains Eye Study. Ophthalmology. 2000;107(3):450-456.

De-Souza DA, Greene LJ. Pharmacological nutrition after burn injury. J Nutr. 1998;128:797-803.

Ding RW, Kolbe K, Merz B, de Vries J, Weber E, Benet Z. Pharmacokinetics of nicotinic acid-salicylic acid interaction. Clin Pharmacol Ther. 1989;46(6):642-647.

Draelos, Zoe Diana, M.D. Cosmetic Conundrums. Dermatology Times. 2003.

Elam M, Hunninghake DB, Davis KB, et al. Effects of niacin on lipid and lipoprotein levels and glycemic control in patients with diabetes and peripheral arterial disease: the ADMIT study: a randomized trial. Arterial Disease Multiple Intervention Trial. JAMA. 2000;284:1263-1270.

Gardner SF, Marx MA, White LM, et al. Combination of low-dose niacin and pravastatin improves the lipid profile in diabetic patients without compromising glycemic control. Ann Pharmacother. 1997;31(6):677-682.

Hilton, Lisette. An Update on latest in cosmeceuticals. Cosmetic Surgery Times Reports 2004.

Jacobson, Elaine. United States Patent 6,924,299. Abstract: Methods and compositions useful in enhancing oxygen delivery to cells. 2005.

Naweko San-Joyz. With ambitions of fighting acne, rosacea and tumors, what can this vitamin really do for you? Natural Health Web.com.

Patrick, Jay. United States Patent 5,496,827. Abstract: Compositions of transdermal delivery of nutrients. July 1994.

Jeri Ross, President and CEO of LjR, Inc. and creator of CelluliteRx, has a Masters degree in Public Health & Research and has worked in the medical industry for 15 years as a Health Educator Administrator. In 2004, she teamed up with her sister, Lyn Ross, owner of Institut’DERMed to contribute her research skills towards the development of advanced cosmeceutical skin and body care formulations. For more information, visit www.celluliterx.biz or email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

Want to read more?

Subscribe to one of our monthly plans to continue reading this article.

Related items

  • Successful Upselling Foreward Successful Upselling Foreward
     
     


    Upselling and add-ons – a challenging subject to talk about even in the best of times. But here we are in the middle of an economic crisis, so you must be asking yourself how we could possibly consider this a reasonable topic when you are just happy you are able to sustain your clientele. Many of you are probably thinking there is no way you would jeopardize that relationship by asking the client to spend more money. All of which are perfectly reasonable thoughts and questions. However, I will ask you to put them in a box briefly, clear your mind, and be open to consideration for just a moment.

    Let me give you an example of an effective suggestion that happens millions of times, everyday, all around the world. You go to your favorite restaurant; you sit down, and look over the menu. Your server comes to the table and takes your order, you tell him what you would like and he confirms your order then says, “Would you like a salad with that tonight, or can I interest you in a glass of wine?” A perfectly harmless question, that was neither painful nor offensive. At worst you say “No, thank you.” At best, he just enhanced your dining experience, increased your bill, and ultimately his tip. Job well done!

  • Creating the Ideal Retail Mix - December 2008 Creating the Ideal Retail Mix - December 2008
    by Melinda Minton

    Selling retail is an essential part of a well run spa. This is true not only because the additional revenue is so crucial to a spa's bottom line, but also because prescriptive home care is the necessary second step to the professional care given to a client in the spa. While mastering the retail sale can be difficult from a team or individual perspective, there are methods for making your spa’s retail routine hum.

     

     

    Your Spa's Style

    Oftentimes spas try to sell a bit of everything in an attempt to accommodate everyone. This can be a fatal error. The more fragmented your retail mix the more clients and staff will be confused. There must be a driving force behind your spa philosophy. Are you primarily a spa focused in on medical skin care, contouring services, water therapies, or all organic non-ablative therapies? Before you can determine the best retail mix for your spa, you really need to dig deep and understand your theme, focus, and primary therapeutic offerings. Moreover, remember that if you can’t get the product on them in the treatment room—there is a much smaller chance that the client will be taking the product home with them for further use when not at the spa. Integrating the treatment experience with the retail experience is crucial. When determining your retail mix, be cognizant of your client. Do you primarily offer clinical services or is your treatment mix somewhat more “fluffy” or gift-oriented?

  • Deal or No Deal Deal or No Deal

    When Sarah Hughes skated off with the gold medal, she pulled off one of the biggest upsets in Olympic history. Her surprisingly simple secret? “I didn’t skate for a gold medal. I went out and had a great time.”

    Athletes say it all the time: “I just went out there and had fun.” And, admittedly, they do look like they’re having a great time.

    Fortunately, fun isn’t the sole province of superstar athletes. It can work for the rest of us in the skin care industry, too. The link between having fun and business success has been proven in countless studies. When we’re having fun on the job, we are more creative and more productive.

     

  • Sugar... Not Just for Coffee Anymore Sugar... Not Just for Coffee Anymore

    by Lina Kennedy

    A couple of decades ago, offering cream and sugar for anything other than coffee or tea would have sounded quite ridiculous! But in today’s realm of aesthetics and cosmetics promoting coffee and chocolate to soothe even the jitteriest skin, or offering sugar as a real hair removal solution to an age-old problem is very realistic. And as post treatment, applying a good trans-dermal cream to hydrate and moisturize the skin is simply a great, soothing and natural way to complete your sugaring service.

  • Jan Marini - August 2010: A Legend in Aesthetics
    By
    Jan Marini - August 2010: A Legend in Aesthetics
    Jan Marinin

     

    Those who know Jan Marini refer to her as a visionary. While Jan might agree in principle, she sees this characterization as both a strength and a weakness. She envies those who are able to savor the moment. Where others view life in snapshots that capture real time, Jan sees broad borderless landscapes and endless possibilities. She does not see a product, she sees a business and in that same instance her mind is flooded with the business plan and all the accompanying details. Even when she is not envisioning empires, she is never satisfied with the status quo.
    Given her background, perhaps this is an understandable if not necessary survival tool. Jan’s mother, Florence, was a single mom of three boys in an era when divorce carried a major stigma. Florence remarried and unexpectedly gave birth to Jan late in life. The family struggled to live a very meager existence. Her father died when she was eight years old and the family was thrust into poverty. Florence worked only menial jobs and food was often scarce. It was no wonder that Jan viewed her world not as it was, but as it might be, and that she softened the bleak reality by envisioning a larger and more optimistic scenario brimming with potential. Because of her early circumstances, Jan is adamant that in order to succeed you must be tenacious, doggedly determined, and completely focused on the ultimate goal.
    Jan describes herself as a product researcher. “Back in the early days I was considered a product ingredient expert. I lectured to medical professionals, skin care professionals, and consumers about how ingredients really performed and what they could realistically expect to provide.” She also did talk radio and T.V., because as she puts it, “consumers love to hear about ingredients and whether their products really work. It is a popular topic that lends itself to talk shows.”
Login to post comments

February 2024

Skin Care Blogs

Brands of the Month

  • DMK Skin Revision Center
  • Face Reality Skincare
  • Eminence Organic Skin Care
body { overflow-y: auto; } html, body { min-width: unset; }