Layering serums is trending across many social media platforms, often ignoring what is specific about a particular serum’s formula. Most influencers are familiar with serums that have only one or two actives at most – and conclude that layering many serums is the best method to improve skin and correct several skin conditions. In short, they assume a serum cannot contain numerous actives and cannot correct several skin problems at the same time. There are alternatives. 

Direct outdoor sun exposure is an obvious cause of sun damage, but many people do not realize the equally harmful effects that can occur from daily indoor sun exposure. Ultraviolet radiation leads to actinic damage, which is the chemical changes that occur in skin expressed as discoloration, uneven leathery texture, wrinkles, and loose skin. Regular routines, like daily commuting and energy-efficient lighting, could be damaging to skin. Understanding the sources of indoor solar damage and the protocols to protect skin can minimize and prevent its adverse effects.

SUNLIGHT FROM THE OUTSIDE IN

The most straightforward indoor culprit of sun damage is the sunlight that passes through windows. Although most ultraviolet B rays are blocked by glass because of their short wavelength, ultraviolet A rays have a longer wavelength and impose the primary risk of light that radiates from the outdoors in. This inspires a balance conversation around holistic wellness. Blue light is within the ultraviolet radiation spectrum, which is essential for supporting mood and mental health. It is responsible for helping regulate the body’s natural circadian rhythms, not to mention direct sunlight is necessary to promote vitamin D synthesis.

It is a catch-22 – morning daylight radiance is recommended, but it comes with a price. Ultraviolet blue light radiation activates and regulates the healthy production of cortisol. Cortisol controls energy levels and supports alertness during the daytime. On the same accord, ultraviolet radiation poses the risk of premature skin aging, cancer, and even damage to the eyes.

ELECTRONIC DEVICES

Most people in modern-day society use electronic devices daily, and the blue light emitted from those devices has adverse effects. Moreover, constantly sitting in front of a computer, television, tablet, or phone screen causes confusion in the body as its internal clock is not clear of the time of day. The day and night sensory imbalance disrupts the body’s natural signals to activate melatonin production and suppress cortisol at nighttime and vice versa. Nighttime melatonin deficiency and increased cortisol on a consistent basis come with the collateral cost of poor rest, sleep, and enhanced stress. This contributes to premature skin and body aging and even illness cumulating on the already adverse effect of direct ultraviolet exposure that compromises cellular integrity.

References

1. Tang, Z, Tong, X, Huang, J, Liu, L, Wang, D, Yang, S. Research progress of keratinocyte-programmed cell death in UV-induced Skin photodamage. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed. 2021; 37: 442– 448.
2. Guy GP Jr, Watson M, Seidenberg AB, Hartman AM, Holman DM, Perna F. Trends in indoor tanning and its association with sunburn among US adults. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2017;76(6):1191-1193. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2017.01.022.
3. Shipp LR, Warner CA, Rueggeberg FA, Davis LS. Further Investigation Into the Risk of Skin Cancer Associated With the Use of UV Nail Lamps. JAMA Dermatol. 2014;150(7):775–776.
4. Mironava, T., Hadjiargyrou, M., Simon, M. and Rafailovich, M.H. (2012), The Effects of UV Emission from Compact Fluorescent Light Exposure on Human Dermal Fibroblasts and Keratinocytes In Vitro. Photochemistry and Photobiology, 88: 1497-1506.
5. An S, Kim K, Moon S, et al. Indoor Tanning and the Risk of Overall and Early-Onset Melanoma and Non-Melanoma Skin Cancer: Systematic Review and Meta-Analysis. Cancers (Basel). 2021;13(23):5940. Published 2021 Nov 25. doi:10.3390/cancers13235940
6. Achachi, A., Vocanson, M., Bastien, P., Péguet-Navarro, J., Grande, S., Goujon, C., Breton, L., Castiel-Higounenc, I., Nicolas, J. F., & Gueniche, A. (2015). UV Radiation Induces the Epidermal Recruitment of Dendritic Cells that Compensate for the Depletion of Langerhans Cells in Human Skin. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 135(8), 2058-2067.
7. Timares L, Katiyar SK, Elmets CA. DNA damage, apoptosis and langerhans cells--Activators of UV-induced immune tolerance. Photochem Photobiol. 2008 Mar-Apr;84(2):422-36.
8. Seité S, Zucchi H, Moyal D, Tison S, Compan D, Christiaens F, Gueniche A, Fourtanier A. Alterations in human epidermal Langerhans cells by ultraviolet radiation: quantitative and morphological study. Br J Dermatol. 2003 Feb;148(2):291-9.

Victoria Tabak is the CEO of NATPURE Clinical Skin Care. She is a two-time international award-winning licensed aesthetician, oncology-trained, a published skin and wellness expert, and a nationally recognized skin care educator. She has more than 20 years of experience in the beauty industry along with a master’s degree in business and minor in chemistry. She has worked with other aestheticians, dermatologists, plastic surgeons, and cosmetologists to formulate and revolutionize a holistic approach to beauty that people love, alongside her father, a distinguished scientist.

Skin is the body’s protective blanket, and it is full of vascular components, subcutaneous tissue, nerves, texture, tone, and limitless pores absorbing and excreting every second of the day. The integumentary system, the largest organ on the body, is a beautiful canvas that is free to roam wherever the mind tells it to go. Yet, when a naked reflection is cast upon a mirror, the eyes of its owner discover a flawed cloak upon its bones. What once was smooth, now rests dimpling terrain. Where a curve pronounced a shape of seamless continuity is now disrupted by the shifting of an individual’s journey throughout the years. Time, choices, and unforeseen events change the body like a worn draping but also with time, ancient alternative practices and medical advancements have a way of assisting the body to rebound.

DISTORTED IMAGE

Body image has been important since the beginning of time. Overtime, it has spawned a breed of its own: body image distortion. With this body image distortion, invasive surgeries and treatments boomed. The perfect body became the new fountain-of-youth search. Along with those invasive techniques, more and more people started becoming aware of alternative, non-invasive techniques. This article delves into those noninvasive ways, where treatments have no downtime, as well as a smaller hit to the wallet.

According to the National Center for Biotechnology Information (NCBI), National Library of Medicine (NLM), National Institutes of Health (NIH), “Body image is one of the components of personal identity. Body image is the figure that one has on their anthropometric measurements, contours, and shape of the body –  and also, the feelings correlated to these factors that affect the satisfaction with the body or specific parts of the body… Body image represents how we think, feel, perceive, and behave regarding our bodies.” If body image is how one personally identifies themselves in more ways than one, then it is reasonable to believe that most people seek a healthy body image. In this modern era, social media solicits a filtered image within their feed, distorting reality into a false identity. People see a version of what they believe to be a body image they desire. If an individual is choosing a distorted image, then they will always fall short of their own body image. It is important for professionals to address each client wanting body treatments with compassion, honesty, and care.

References 

1. Aesthetics Corner. “Non-Invasive Body Contouring” Dermatology Learning Network July 2010. 15 Feb. 2023 https://www.hmpgloballearningnetwork.com/site/thederm/site/cathlab/event/non-invasive-body-contouring#:~:text=PATIENT%20SELECTION,within%201%20year%20of%20remission.
2. Cleveland Clinic medical professional. “Fat Freezing (Cryolipolysis)” Cleveland Clinic 25 Jan. 2019. 15 Feb. 2023 https://my.clevelandclinic.org/health/treatments/21060-fat-freezing-cryolipolysis.

‌3. Dinallo, Anna. “A Reflection on Cupping Therapy and Historical Medical Dominance” Med Crave 20 Jan. 2019, 15 Feb. 2023 https://medcraveonline.com/IJCAM/a-reflection-on-cupping-therapy-and-historical-medical-dominance.html#:~:text=History%20of%20Cupping&text=In%20North%20Africa%2C%20cupping%20therapy,glyph%20to%20reference%20a%20physician.&text=In%20Asia%2C%20during%20the%20Jin,draining%20fluids%20from%20the%20body.

4. Guo, Qige, Pei, Qing and Dong, Yiying. “Advances in the Research and Application of High-intensity Focused Electromagnetic Technology for Fat Apoptosis and Body Shaping” Science Direct 27 Sep. 2022, 15 Feb. 2023 https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2096691122000322

‌5. Hossein, Seyed Alizera and Padley, Ranjit K. “Body Image Distortion” NIH, National Library of Medicine Center for Biotechnology Information 5 Sep. 2022. 15 Feb. 2023 www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK545682.com

6. Kinney, Brian M., MD, FACS, MSME and Lozanova, Paula., MD. “High Intensity Focused Electromagnetic Therapy Evaluated by Magnetic Resonance Imaging: Safety and Efficacy Study a Dual Tissue Effect Based Non-Invasive Abdominal Shaping” NIH, National Library of Medicine Center for Biotechnology Information 10 Oct. 2018. 15 Feb. 2023 https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov.pmc/articles/pmc6505690/

‌7. Methods in Enzymology. “Lipolysis” Science Direct 2014. 15 Feb. 2023 www.sciencedirect.com/topics/medicine-and-dentistry/lipolysis

‌8. Kuschnider, Rebekah. “What is Laser Lipolysis?” Web MD 9, Nov. 2021. 15 Feb. 2023 https://www.webmd.com/beauty/laser-lipolysis.com

‌9. Vodder School International, LTD. “Manual Lymph Drainage History” Dr. Vodder School International 2023. 15 Feb. 2023 https://vodderschool.com/manual_lymph_drainage_history2#:~:text=The%20history%20of%20the%20method,lymph%20flow%20and%20fluid%20movement.

Amra Lear is a licensed massage therapist and aesthetician, NCBTMB provider, trainer, and co-creator of world-renowned treatments, such as the Nobu Go. She recently relocated to Pallavi Luxury Spa in Clearwater, Florida after spending the last 22 years of her career on the Las Vegas strip at two prestigious spas. As a spa spokesperson, she appears internationally on various media platforms sharing her knowledge on spa treatments and wellness.

The importance of protecting skin from the sun to avoid its harmful effects is one of the most commonly shared skin care sentiments. Still, many clients admit that they do not consistently apply sunscreen daily, and even if they do, most do not reapply throughout the day, which is just as critical. Whether skin becomes sunburned or not, unprotected sun exposure can truly cause long-term, severe damage to skin and overall health. It is critical to begin exercising safe sun care practices at an early age, but it is never too late to incorporate sun protection into one’s daily routine. Knowing how sun damage occurs, how it presents itself in skin, and how to effectively practice sun care is vital.  

UNDERSTANDING SUN DAMAGE  

Many people, including experts, have trouble differentiating between the biological signs of aging in skin and the signs singularly induced and accelerated by sun exposure. Though the end results of either factor may appear the same, biological aging is determined by age and genetics, and it can be accelerated or slowed through various dietary and lifestyle habits. Sun damage is differentiated by being caused by exposure to ultraviolet light sources solely, which leads to accelerated aging in skin by permanently altering skin’s structure. When unprotected skin is repeatedly exposed to ultraviolet radiation from the sun, it produces melanin, which acts as a natural protection or sunscreen by absorbing the energy from ultraviolet rays and depositing it on skin in the form of dark spots and freckles.1 This type of damage occurs throughout various layers of skin beyond the surface, including the dermis, or the deepest layer of skin, and it can take years before this damage becomes visible.  

There are three types of ultraviolet rays to be aware of: ultraviolet A, B, and C. Ultraviolet A rays have the longest wavelength of ultraviolet rays, and as a result, penetrate skin on a deeper level, damaging proteins in skin like collagen and elastin. 

Ultraviolet B rays have a shorter wavelength than ultraviolet A rays, and though they do not penetrate as deeply into skin, they contain a higher amount of energy. As a result, they are the primary ray associated with sunburns and cause damage to the DNA of cells. There is a consensus amongst experts that ultraviolet B rays are responsible for causing most skin cancers. 

Ultraviolet C rays have the shortest wavelength of ultraviolet rays and contain the most energy. Historically, it has been taught that the earth’s ozone layer prevents ultraviolet C rays from reaching the earth. However, recent studies contradict this concept and show that they do penetrate the ozone. As a result, there are major implications regarding ultraviolet C rays and their impact on the health of the environment and on skin.2 Exposure to these rays may also occur through man-made sources like specific lamps and lasers, such as those used to sanitize materials of harmful microbes.  

References 

1. Yale Medicine. (2022, October 28). Photoaging (sun damage). Yale Medicine. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.yalemedicine.org/conditions/sun-damage#:~:text=It%20happens%20when%20ultraviolet%20(UV,damage%20surfaces%20and%20becomes%20visible  

1. Herndon, J. M., D. Hoisington, R., & Whiteside, M. (2018). Deadly Ultraviolet UV-C and UV-B Penetration to Earth’s Surface: Human and Environmental Health Implications. Journal of Geography, Environment and Earth Science International, 14(2), 1–11. https://doi.org/10.9734/JGEESI/2018/40245 

1. Sunburn. The Skin Cancer Foundation. (2022, January 28). Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.skincancer.org/risk-factors/sunburn/  

1. NCI Dictionary of Cancer terms. National Cancer Institute. (n.d.). Retrieved March 15, 2023, from http://www.cancer.gov/publications/dictionaries/cancer-terms/def/melanocyte  

1. Gregg, Náosha. “Inflammaging Skin: Causes, Effects, and How to Prevent IT - Glamour.” Inflammaging Skin: Causes, Effects, and How to Prevent It, 2022. https://www.glamour.com/story/inflammaging-skin.  

1. “How to Treat Sunburn.” American Academy of Dermatology. Accessed March 15, 2023. http://www.aad.org/public/everyday-care/injured-skin/burns/treat-sunburn.  

Brian Goodwin is an award-winning international educator for Éminence Organic Skin Care. As a master medical aesthetician, master herbalist, and consultant, Goodwin leverages over 10 years of spa industry experience to bring fun, engaging education to spa professionals around the world. Voted “Favorite Brand Educator” in DERMASCOPE’s 2019 Aestheticians' Choice Awards, Goodwin delivers influential trainings which continue to raise the bar for professional education and garner worldwide peer recognition. Goodwin embraces every opportunity to share his passion and guide industry professionals on their path to success. He has educated and consulted to more than 2,000 distinguished spas and has notably been invited to deliver keynotes at major industry events across North America.  

From Cleopatra’s milk baths to Turkish hammams and Egyptian and Chinese reflexology, body treatments and the caring of skin below the neck have been around for centuries. No culture has ever neglected its skin and the body it covers, nor should modern day people. Currently, more people are beginning to take responsibility for their own health, and studies show that Americans are now more interested overall in taking care of their bodies as a whole. Gone are the days of basic body scrubs and burrito wraps with fluffy descriptions. Body treatments are now a fully integrated multisensory experience combining modalities that target multiple concerns at one time. 

PINS & (MICRO)NEEDLES 

Microneedling has taken the spa industry by storm, and no one can deny the dramatic results this modality can achieve without much downtime or negative side effects. What is not to love? Clients are signing up for microneedling treatments on the face for scaring, glycation, and hyperpigmentation but very few are capitalizing on microneedling for the body. Aesthetics and microneedling teacher, Millicent Russo says, “There is nothing else currently on the market that can address scars and stretch marks like microneedling. It is unique because it regulates cellular functions like the melanocyte and fibroblasts. By regulating we mean, we control the amount of trauma to the cell and when it heals, the natural healing of skin regulates cellular function. Internal vitamin C is necessary to create collagen and proper healing. Of course, a low inflammatory diet is imperative for healing the body from the inside out.” It is important to remember that less is sometimes more and more is not always better. Going too strong could cause post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. 

Master aesthetician, Darcy Debernarde specializes in scalp microneedling. She confirms that this treatment is a “life-changing treatment for those suffering from hair loss due to medications, illness, or hormones. Needling combined with the proper supplements and topicals will stimulate dormant hair follicles to promote natural hair growth without surgery.” 

GUA-TO-THE-SHA 

If one is weary of needles, or if a skin care professional’s state does not allow microneeding, gua sha, cupping, and lymphatic drainage are options that aestheticians have been getting great results to smooth scars, break down scar tissue, create more definition, and increase circulation throughout the whole body. Master aesthetician, Zen Miller says, “It is really a niche market, and everyone has a scar. It is important to get to that scar as quickly as possible. In about six to eight weeks, so you can get that collagen moving the way you want it to. Cupping is great to build collagen on atrophic scars, and a warm gua sha stone is good [for] crossing fiber to smooth it out and then go in the same direction as the scar. Get in with local surgeons in the area and let them know you specialize in scar remodeling.”  

Lora Condon is an international award-winning aesthetician, guest on Dr. Oz, author of “Spa Wars,” and a beauty consumer advocate known as The Beauty Buster. Condon was named InStyle Magazine’s “Best Eyebrow Shaper in New Jersey” and has worked with Ladies’ Home Journal, The New York Times, Success Magazine, Good Morning America, Cate Blanchet, Toni Colette, and Tea Leoni. Condon was featured in videos by Cosmo, Refinery29, Beauty Insider, and Entertainment Tonight. Beauty Buster Organic Skin Care was created to target specific skin conditions and even contains luxury lip treatments with olive oil from her great grandfather’s town in Ital

A Skin Care Revolution

The DT2 Skin Resurfacing System revolutionized microdermabrasion by enabling aestheticians and medical professionals to exfoliate more gently than ever before, while maximizing the amount of product that can be infused by the skin. The combined power of Altair’s DiamondTome and Hydro Wand effectively targets specific skin conditions, improves overall skin complexion, and reduces signs of aging. Like all Altair systems, the DT2 Skin Resurfacing System is built to last, easy to maintain, and designed to be affordable. www.diamondtomepro.com

A Skin Care Revolution

The DT2 Skin Resurfacing System revolutionized microdermabrasion by enabling aestheticians and medical professionals to exfoliate more gently than ever before, while maximizing the amount of product that can be infused by the skin. The combined power of Altair’s DiamondTome and Hydro Wand effectively targets specific skin conditions, improves overall skin complexion, and reduces signs of aging. Like all Altair systems, the DT2 Skin Resurfacing System is built to last, easy to maintain, and designed to be affordable. www.diamondtomepro.com

Throughout attending all the industry events readers can think of over the years, and even more to come, I have been able to witness all sides of the trade. From day spa and holistic practices to medical spa heaven, this industry is one with many paths. For this reason, DERMASCOPE introduces the medical-holistic issue. While no side triumphs over another, we challenge readers to find success in the spaces in between.

Regardless of whether a practitioner sways more to one side than another, there is no doubt that there is value in looking at the bigger picture of aesthetics. Clients are not one dimensional and professionals’ care should not be either. 

Discover the education of this issue; brush up on natural skin care ingredients, the evolution of medical spas, cosmetic dermatology, and the beauty of both. In addition to the primary lineup of education, explore a new approach to the skin ecosystem, how to reduce overhead, some stretches to keep the body moving, and so much more. November will come and go, but this issue will always be here. Enjoy the autumn reads. 

I recently read a post on Facebook that said, “If you do not like pumpkin spice, you are un-American.” It made me giggle, but then I realized how profound of a statement it was. Admittedly, even if someone does not like pumpkin spice, there is something about the name, the smell, and the visual that just warms the heart and settles one’s being into the autumn season and the Thanksgiving holiday.

There is an awful lot to be thankful for. Being thankful for what one has opens the gateway to obtaining what one does not have. It is a very simple act of gratitude that serves to be especially grounding at this time of year. The hustle and bustle of the holidays, the angst of the end of one year, and the thrill of the start of another are all blessings in disguise. Skin care professionals are also a blessing in disguise. Their knowledge, expertise, exceptional treatments, and stellar care are the hidden gifts that allow clients to look and feel their absolute best.

This month’s issue focuses on holistic and medical aesthetics – two topics that can be viewed as either total opposites or in complete sync with one another. Either way, they offer insight into the amazing ways that professionals can enhance their knowledge, skill, and offerings. So, indulge in the content and the amazing information and give a nice hefty breath of thanks for all that is.

The Gut-Skin Axis

MEET THE PRESENTERS

Chloe Williams is a registered holistic nutritionist (RHN) and founder of Eunoia Wellness Co, where she specializes in hormone and gut health. It was her own experience with health problems including extreme fatigue, digestive issues, and cystic acne which led her to discover the transformative power of holistic health. With the guidance of a naturopathic doctor, she experienced the magic the right nutrition can bring and inspired her to pursue a career in nutrition. Joining a health clinic, she began her mission of supporting women in her community and has since amassed Chloe TikTok 800,000 followers, has partnered with global brands, and continues to amplify the holistic health message.

Kelsey Duque, a licensed aesthetician of over eight years and a Certified Acne Expert for 5 years. Trained by Laura Cooksey herself, Duque began treating acne clients in the Face Reality Acne Clinic and later played a key role in onboarding and supporting Face Reality’s Acne Expert community. As education development manager and educator, she oversees professional training, and develops Face Reality’s educational materials, protocols, and classes nationally for the brand’s Acne Professional Program. Alongside Laura Cooksey, co-founder of Face Reality Skincare, she is an expert at educating both clients and professionals on the treatment of acne using the safe and effective personalized protocols employed in the Face Reality Clear Skin Method.