Displaying items by tag: DERMASCOPE Magazine

by Rhonda Allison,
Founder/CEO of Rhonda Allison® Clinical Research for Skin

At one time apples were considered the forbidden fruit, but now they are relished as a healthful source of polyphenols and rich antioxidants. Research has shown apples to help reduce the risk of certain types of cancer and heart disease, control cholesterol, maintain healthy weight, and deliver antioxidant compounds to the body. If apples are this good for the body, what can they do for the skin?

Apple (Malus Domestica) in skin care is both a time-tested ingredient as well as cutting edge, because of the advancements being made with the fruit. It has long been used as a protector from oxidative stress, for skin lightening, and as a peeling agent, in the form of malic acid (L), for its exfoliation, skin smoothing, and cellular renewal properties.

Since apple, or malic acid, is slightly gentler, it allows the aesthetician to control the level of peeling – mild to mid-depth – depending on layers and preparations used. It works by digesting surface cells to soften skin then infuses it with antioxidants and hydration, leaving the skin firmed and toned.

Benefits at the core
More recent advancements have turned researchers on to apple stem cells. Having used the malus extract to enhance skin care formulas for more than 20 years, I saw the potential in apple stems cells, and began watching the development unfold and incorporating the ingredient into various formulas.

In contrast to human stem cells, plant stems cells are totipotent, which means every cell has the ability to regenerate, be it a leaf, flower, stem, or the entire plant. When a plant suffers a wound, the surrounding cells will revert back to stem cells to form callus cells. Following the healing phase, cells return to their original state and begin building new tissue. This is where the technology behind apple stems cells lies – plant cells replicate their protective and healing ability to promote longevity in human cells.

This process is particularly beneficial to human cells as the body ages and cell proliferation slows. Human stem cells are continually making identical copies of themselves, and separating to form specialized cells, but growth slows significantly and longevity is reduced with age. The stem cells are rich in epigenetic factors and metabolites, which further promote the perpetuation and vitality of skin cells.

An apple a day
It is also important to note that epidermal stem cells die after a certain number of divisions, and the process of self-renewal is a slow one. This is significant because stem cell loss is more destructive to skin tissues than loss of differentiated cells, and is a major contributor to tissue aging. In studies, apple stem cells significantly reduced the visible signs of aging, shrinking wrinkle depth.

The ingredient has now found its way into other personal care products like body lotions and hair care. Researchers recently discovered that the ingredient not only protects from UV damage, but has also shown promise in hair care. Similar to the skin, it targets the cell to delay hair follicle aging, preventing hair loss and graying.

As research continues, uses for apple will continue to proliferate, just as the cells that make up this amazing fruit. Keep a close eye on this cutting-edge ingredient as new discoveries into its abilities and benefits continue to be revealed.

by Marlene Katz

According to the book Stretch Marks, From Their Clinical Aspects to Their Treatment, written by Dr. Nina Roos and Dr. Anny Cohen-Letessier, stretch marks are extremely common and develop before the age of 50. They affect more than 40 to 50 percent of the young population, mainly Caucasians, essentially female (60 to 80 percent women compared to 10 to 30 percent men.). They mainly develop during puberty, with a variable overall incidence depending on the series: from 25 to 35 percent up to 70 percent of girls and 40 percent of boys. Concerning pregnant women, according to the authors, 50 to 90 percent of primiparae will develop stretch marks as of the 6th month of pregnancy on the stomach, the breast, or hips. Copyright© PR Newswire United Business Media

by Marlene Katz

Tip 1: Bath and Shower

Ruins of ancient beauty baths are reminiscent of the now popular healing water therapies found in spas across the world. Using water to renew the body is easy to do at home. Just fill your tub with warm to hot water, add in a cup of Epsom salts and bathe until you work up a sweat. Then jump into the shower for a cool rinse or wash your body down with a washcloth dipped in cool water from the faucet. This is what holistic therapists call “contrast therapy”. The benefit of bathing is the thermal effect, which stimulates production of the anti-stress hormone. A cold rinse after the warm bath stimulates blood flow and the lymphatic system.

Tip 2: Exfoliate

Use a towel to exfoliate dead skin cells and invigorate the skin. Take the opposite corners of a bath towel and hold firmly in your hands. Use the middle section of the towel to sweep back and forth on the skin. Work the body on the front and back beginning at the ankles up to the chest. Exfoliation removes dead skin cells and helps to further enhance your circulation.

Tip 3: Reduce Cellulite Naturally

Your skin, the largest organ, is a reflection of how well your inner organs are functioning. Skin flare-ups like rashes, acne, and cellulite are indications of imbalances in the body. When inflammation occurs in our body it is a sign that the inner plumbing system is clogged. The kidneys and liver are the body’s filters. Too much fluid can cause swelling in the connective tissue. Toxins that normally are eliminated by our lymphatic system accumulate when the system slows down. It is not uncommon for women to see a redistribution of fatty cells that show up mainly in the abdomen, hips, and buttock area. While exercise and diet help to tone the skin, the skin needs to be stimulated from the outside to break down fatty deposits as well. You can massage the skin by using a natural bristle brush and lightly brushing dry skin from the ankles up to the abdomen and continuing on the buttocks and back area. It is also good to use a cellulite gel to massage the skin in a similar fashion as if kneading bread.

Tip 4: Working from the Inside Out-Spa Recipes

It is often said you are what you eat and this is absolutely true. Food offers vital nutrients that the body needs. Our choices are to fuel our body with healthy foods or fill it up with toxins. Many delicious fruits and vegetables help to purify and cleanse these vital organs. Cucumbers are great for the kidney area. Chlorophyll rich greens like dandelion and arugula are wonderful for the liver. There are many recipes that not only taste great, but help the body to function more efficiently. Eating foods that nourish the body will reduce inflammation and cellulite.

by Paul Matthew

1. Provide Google with pages of industry relevant text: If Google were a spider that crawls the Internet, then the words on your website are the strands its eight cyber-legs crawl upon and memorize. The more pages of text you provide, the more you increase the chances that someone searching on Google will be shown your website in their search.

2. Quickly tell Google what your webpage is all about: Every webpage has a "Title Tag." One sentence of text displayed at the very top of your computer screen. An example is if you log onto WallStreetJournal.com, at the top of your screen you will see the text "Business News & Financial News - The Wall Street Journal" It is a great title tag as it answers the "what will you find on this webpage?" question. Make each of your title tags unique to their page.

3. Exchange links with skin care related sites for higher Google ranking: This is a hard process to do. You have to find relevant websites to trade links with, then you must contact them, and then you have to put their link on your site and vice versa. It is very time consuming. Which is exactly why Google gives you a higher ranking because they know it is not easy!

4. Tell potential customers what you want them to do on every page of your website: It is amazing how much people respond when they are told what to do. Generally for skin care practitioners, you want people to schedule an appointment. Encourage this by making sure that every single page of your web site has your contact information prominently displayed. Also, include a motivating personalized call to action on the page, like "Contact us today for beautiful skin at 555-555-5555."

by Antonio Prieto

A wedding is one of the most memorable experiences in a lifetime. With photos and videos lasting generations it is an important day for your hair to look fantastic.

For Long Hair:

Long, loose locks are super sexy and give a natural look. Take a 1-inch curling iron and 1-inch sections of hair, then wrap the hair around the outside of the iron. Make sure the hair has been sprayed with a medium hold hairspray before wrapping. Once hair is all curled shake the hair and run some silicone drops through the waves. You can always place a classic pin on the side for a more dressed up look.

For Medium to Long Hair:

A low messy bun is terrific. Give your client a good full blowout. Release the front "bang" area and pull the rest back in a very low side ponytail. Sweep the bang area to the side trying to reach the ponytail holder. Wrap one inch strands loosely from the pony around your finger and pin close to the hair tie. Pinch out sections to loosen the look and spray with a medium hold hairspray.

For Short Hair:

Make sure you have great color and shine. Give your client an extra special smooth blow-dry. Amp it up for the day, but look like yourself.

By Philip Luque, Director of Artistry & Education, Youngblood® Mineral Cosmetics

When it comes to weddings, hair and makeup are just as important as the dress and guest list. Bridal makeup trends vary from season to season, but they also share similar styles throughout the year. Here, are three different looks for three different skin tones: fair, medium, and dark. When picking a foundation, always be sure it is appropriate for your client’s skin type (normal, dry or oily).

Fair Skin Tones:

Light complexions need a bit of warmth. Start by adding a bronzer after foundation. Next, add a brightly colored blush to the apples of cheeks to make them pop a subtle shimmer makes cheeks glow when walking down the aisle.
Eyes should be enhanced and not overdone. Start with a subtle shimmery shadow all over the lid. Then add definition by applying a medium to dark shade in the crease, gently sweeping back and forth and blending as you go. Finish the eye with a highlight under the brow to open up the eyes. Using black eyeliner, line directly into the lash line — avoid a thick line. This will help eyes look picture-perfect. Add mascara and define the brows with the appropriate color to frame the face.
Choose a lipstick in a medium shade to avoid overwhelming fair complexions.

Medium Skin Tones:

Start off with the appropriate foundation and a light dusting of bronzer, then add blush to brighten the cheek area. A soft berry tone will help bring out the cheeks in medium complexions.
For romantic, smoky eyes, apply a medium-toned shadow all over the lid and a matte shade into the crease. Line the eye with a dark burgundy shadow to make eyes stand out. If more drama is desired, add black eyeliner on top of the dark burgundy shadow. Apply mascara using a zigzag motion to gently separate and lift lashes, then follow with the appropriate brow color to define brows.
Since medium skin tones can wear more pigmented lip colors, use a lip liner to avoid feathering. Next apply a medium shade all over lips to blend.

Additional Tip: I advise against using lip gloss for weddings because it can be messy if there is a veil involved or for when the bride and groom kiss.

Dark Skin Tones:

For darker skin tones, select her best foundation match. Use a powder to set foundation on deeper complexions. A powder with an orange/yellow undertone will help prevent an ashen appearance. Follow with concealer to brighten around the eye area.
Apply a richly colored eyeshadow all over the lid, and a dark grey or black to the crease to create a dramatic effect... Highlight the brow bone area with a medium-colored shimmer. Accent the lash line with a black eye liner pencil, apply mascara in a zigzag motion and define the brows.
When choosing lip shades for darker skin tones, understand that most shades will look totally different than what is in the tube. Darker skin tones can wear the deeper shades and sometimes need to in order for them to show up in photos. If your client has full lips, you do not need to use a lip liner — instead, simply apply a color all over the lips.

Additional Tip: When doing wedding makeup for any skin tone, remember to always do a trial run with your looks. Be sure your bridal client is comfortable with any look you put together for her.