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Fall Tips - September 2010

Fall Tips

Fall Tips by Cat TatmanFall Tips

by Cat Tatman, Director of Marketing for gloProfessional

Make sure your clients are wearing the proper shade of foundation. During the warmer months, skin is typically a little darker; however as we move towards the cooler months complexions will get lighter, which means a slightly lighter shade of foundation is needed. This does not mean looking pale and pasty though, simply use bronzer and contour certain areas of the face for a natural glow. Apply the bronzer in the shape of a capital cursive “E” to each side of the face. These are areas where the sun naturally hits the face, by applying bronzer to these areas it will look natural and complement a lighter complexion.
Skin can also become dehydrated and look dull when the climate is cooler. Combat lack-luster skin by keeping it properly moisturized and by selecting makeup that will help skin look more vibrant. You may consider transitioning your client from a pressed base foundation that has a matte finish to a liquid foundation or loose base that offers a more satin or dewy finish. Additionally, cream blushes are great for cooler months to keep skin looking fresh; highlighters and shimmer bricks are great to create a brighter looking complexion.
Clients will also be in need of services and products to address their end-of-summer skin care issues such as hyperpigmentation. Offer specials on services such as brightening facials, peels like TCA’s or Jessner’s and that includes a complimentary skin care and makeover consultation. This makes it easy for your client to get their professional treatment, products, and makeup all in one stop!

Published in Scope This

Part 1: What is Dandruff? What are the Symptoms of Dandruff? - August 2010

DandruffPart 1: What is Dandruff? What are the Symptoms of Dandruff?

Dandruff is: The presence, in varying amounts, of white or gray scales in the hair of the scalp, due to excessive or normal branny exfoliation of the epidermis
-according to MediLexicon's medical dictionary

Dandruff, also known as scurf or Pityriasis simplex capillitii, affects the scalp and causes flakes of skin to appear - it is a common condition. Our skin cells are forever renewing themselves. When the skin cells on our scalp are renewed the old ones are pushed to the surface and out of the scalp. For a person with dandruff the renewal is faster, meaning more dead skin is shed, making the dandruff more noticeable. Dandruff can also occur if the scalp is frequently exposed to extreme temperatures.
Dandruff can be chronical (long-term) or the result of certain triggers. People with dandruff may also experience irritation and redness on the scalp. Excessive flaking may be caused by an underlying illness or condition, such as psoriasis, a fungal infection (Malassezia), seborrheic dermatitis, or even head lice. Some individuals with severe dandruff may have social or self-esteem problems. Therefore, treatment may be important for both physiological and psychological reasons.
A significant number of people with dandruff find it improves as they get older. It is estimated that about 50 percent of people in Western Europe and North America suffer from dandruff. Dandruff is more common in men than in women, and in people with oily skin. Some studies have suggested that diets that are too salty, sugary or spicy and accompanied by excessive alcohol may exacerbate dandruff. Dandruff does not contribute to hair loss.

Seborrheic dermatitis

This is a skin condition in which the skin becomes inflamed or flaky. Seborrheic dermatitis of the scalp is a severe form of dandruff. When it affects the scalp most people refer to it as dandruff. When babies have it, it is referred to as cradle cap. Seborrheic dermatitis causes larger, greasier flakes than most other types of dandruff. Seborrheic dermatitis affects not only the scalp, but the skin in other parts of the body too.

What are the signs and symptoms of dandruff?

The hallmark sign of dandruff, or seborrheic dermatitis of the scalp, is white flakes on the scalp and in the hair. If the person is wearing dark clothes, the flakes will be more noticeable when they fall on their shoulders. The scalp may also feel itchy, tight, or sore.

Signs and symptoms in babies and children

Often referred to as cradle cap, signs and symptoms may appear when the baby is between two weeks and six months of age, especially between the ages of three to eight weeks - this usually disappears after a few weeks; in some cases it may take months. Although cradle cap may be alarming to parents, it is not dangerous.

Published in Scope This

New Survey Finds Rosacea Worsens With Exposure


New Survey Finds Rosacea Worsens With Exposure

While many adults still look forward to summer as eagerly as school children, new survey results show that increased exposure to sun and hot weather can wreak havoc on those with rosacea, a widespread, red-faced skin disorder now estimated to affect more than 16 million Americans. The survey also found that a variety of common heat sources can affect the condition year-round.
In a recent survey of 431 rosacea patients conducted by the National Rosacea Society (NRS), 80 percent of the respondents said they had suffered a flare-up of symptoms as a result of being out in the sun, and 80 percent said their condition was aggravated by hot weather. Excessive indoor heat was a trigger for 56 percent of those surveyed, while 55 percent said heavy exercise had set off a rosacea flare-up. Fifty-four percent said a hot bath had induced an outbreak of rosacea signs and symptoms, and 42 percent said heated beverages had done the same. Heavy clothing had triggered a flare-up for 32 percent, and 26 percent cited menopausal hot flashes.
“Although medical therapy is available to help control this widespread and chronic disorder, it is also important for rosacea patients to identify and minimize any environmental or lifestyle factors that may trigger or aggravate their symptoms,” said Dr. Joseph Bikowski, clinical associate professor of dermatology at Ohio State University. He said he advises patients to keep a diary to determine what factors might be affecting their individual cases.
In addition to common heat triggers, survey respondents reported a host of other sources of heat that had aggravated their individual conditions, including fireplaces and bonfires, high-intensity lamps, steam baths, saunas, and cooking over a hot stove.
The good news is that the survey showed rosacea flare-ups can often be prevented. Nearly 84 percent of the respondents reported that avoiding sources of heat had reduced the frequency of their flare-ups. Seventy-four percent said they now bathe or shower in cooler water, and nearly 69 percent said they go outside less often in hot weather to avoid exacerbating their condition. Sixty-seven percent said they frequently or sometimes leave an overheated room to prevent an outbreak, and 55 percent said they had changed their exercise routine to avoid flare-ups.
“Rosacea sufferers should wear a sunscreen with an SPF of at least 15 year-round, and especially in the summer, they should minimize time outdoors from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. when sunlight is the strongest,” Bikowski said. He noted that a fan or chewing ice chips can effectively reduce flushing from heavy exercise or excessive indoor heat.

Published in Scope This

Did You Do Your Posture Exercise Today? – STEP 2 - August 2010

PostureDid You Do Your Posture Exercise Today? – STEP 2

by Renee North, Certified Posture Exercise Professional (CPEP) and personal trainer (NASM)

The first step to strengthen your posture was discussed, in the
July 2010 issue of DERMASCOPE Magazine.

STEP 2: Do Posture Strengthening Exercises

All exercise is not created equal. Exercising with poor posture can train you to stand and move poorly. Yoga, Tai-Chi, and Pilates are all great for building body awareness and control. According to Dr. Weiniger, a smart way to exercise efficiently and get the most out of any workout is with a pre-exercise "posture break" to set your internal baseline. Before taking a walk or hitting the gym Weiniger recommends these posture strengthening exercises:
  • STORK - Train yourself to stand tall while building good posture by balancing on one foot. First, stand tall with your best posture, and then keep straight as you lift your thigh so your knee is at hip height. Keep standing tall for 30 seconds on each side, focusing on keeping your body well aligned.
  • WALLSTAND - Back up to a wall so your heels, buttocks, shoulders and head all lightly touch the wall while you keep everything level, relaxed and aligned – take three slow breaths, feeling your body’s best posture. Note: If you feel any areas of stress, get your posture checked by a professional.
Published in Scope This

Skin Exfoliation August 2010

Skin Exfoliation

Skin Exfoliation:

Does Pain Equal Gain?

The Science behind this Question:

by Dr. Diana Howard

Lactic acid and glycolic acid are the front-runners in the world of alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) exfoliation. So, which ingredient works best to reveal a newer, fresher you? Independent research studies on AHAs have determined that:
  • Glycolic acid, the smaller molecule of the two, penetrates the skin more readily than lactic acid, and as a result is more irritating to the skin.
  • The activity of both AHAs is controlled by the pH of the solution: Optimum activity is a pH 3.0-3.2. Anything lower will damage and irritate skin.
  • Scientific studies have demonstrated that when one compares lactic acid to glycolic acid, lactic acid stimulates cell turnover and cell renewal at a higher rate than glycolic acid and with less irritation! (Stimulating cell renewal and cell turnover rates is the immediate and long term benefit of using alpha hydroxy acids.)
  • Unlike glycolic acid, lactic acid has added benefits: It hydrates the skin, increases natural barrier lipids in the epidermis and helps lighten hyperpigmentation (age spots).

So why do professionals and consumers believe glycolic acid is the preferred AHA to user? Unfortunately, people often equate irritation with efficacy. Just because glycolic acid is more irritating does not mean it is more efficacious. In this case, pain does not equal gain.

The Skin Care Expert’s View of the Question:

by Annet King

Over-exfoliation is one of the most common “skin-mishaps” professionals see among consumers today, which leads to sensitization, inflammation, accelerated aging, and an increased susceptibility to UV damage. Before you scrub, take skin condition into consideration:
  • Oily/Breakout-prone skin: Choose non-abrasive hydroxy acid exfoliants gently dissolve dead cells while delivering purifying, oil-absorbing benefits. Salicylic acid, clays, sulfur, and soothing lavender and aloe are friends to your skin. Steer clear of physical scrubs!
  • Sensitive skin: Choose gentle, superfine powders that activate with water. Key ingredients include brightening rice bran, phytic acid, and micro-exfoliating (milder, yet effective) fruit enzymes.
  • Aging, dry, lackluster skin: Choose a warming skin polisher that helps drive age-fighting ingredients into the skin. Also look for combined physical/chemical exfoliants including lactic acid and silica with skin-shielding vitamins A, C, and E, white tea, and licorice.
Published in Scope This

Great Peel Treatments

In today’s society of over-indulgence and “I-want-it-now” mentality it is important to understand the benefits and the precautions of using peels. Benefits include, but are not limited to; removal of excessive buildup of dead skin cells, smoothing and tightening of skin, lightening of brown spots, the diminishing of under-eye puffiness and circles, and it aids in the treatment of sun damage. Risks can range from irritation to a chemical burns. With this being said not only is it important for you as a professional to complete a thorough consultation it is also imperative to make sure that your clients understand the pre- and post-treatment precautions so they can appreciate the process and the results from the peel. We have included several different peel treatments from spas to assist you building or strengthening your current menu thereby providing your clients with natural, healthy resolutions to their skin care challenges and/or concerns.

Published in Treatments

Pharmaskincare® by Spa De Soleil

Pharmaskincare® by Spa De Soleil

Pharmaskincare by Spa de Soleil

Pharma Nutrient products have been created for skin in particular need of hydration; exceptionally dry skin, aging skin, or skin undergoing the drying effects of menopause. The remarkable protective benefits of soy isoflavones plus grape seed extract, a substance rich in proanthocyanidin, flood the skin with moisture and nourishment. The Botanica products used in this treatment promote healthy, even-toned skin with a smooth texture that gives skin back its structural integrity. Botanica Vit Bathes the skin in a blanket of pure comfort while restoring it back to health. After your client is comfortably positioned in the facial bed and all pre-facial preparations are done, apply the following steps.

>> STEP 1
To cleanse apply Botanica Vit Complex Cleanser the skin and massage in a circular motion all over the face and neck. Remove with a moist sponge or facial cloth. Follow with Botanica Vit Complex Toner to perfect the cleansing process. Apply onto cotton and gently remove excess cleanser from the face and neck areas.

>> STEP 2
Apply Botanica Vit Complex Face Wash all over the face and neck areas in a circular motion. Remove with moist sponge or facial cloth.

>> STEP 3
Apply a few drops of Revitamine® Complex Serum onto skin. Massage gently over face and neck area for two to three minutes. Start steaming. Continue with massage for the next five minutes. Then apply Deep Invigorating Tablet Masque in Dermafix Activator Solution and leave on skin for the entire duration of steaming time.

>> STEP 4
After steaming, remove Deep invigorating Tablet Masque with a moist sponge or facial cloth. Follow with manual extraction of blackheads and whiteheads. Finish extraction session by applying Botanica Vit Complex Toner onto cotton and put over face and neck on dry skin.

>> STEP 5
Apply a few drops of Oxiana Serum onto forehead, cheeks, nose, and chin. Allow the serum to penetrate with gentle patting. Then apply a thin layer of the Botanica Vit Masque with facial brush to cover bare skin. Allow penetration for seven to 10 minutes.

>> STEP 6
Apply a thin layer of Dermafix Protein Gel and spread evenly on face. Followed by an application of Deep Invigorating Tablet Masque in Dermafix Activator Solution, which should be left on the skin for three to five minutes.

>> STEP 7
Apply, our unique patented formula, Retexture Healing Refining (RHR) to facial skin until deep penetration is complete.

>> STEP 8
Finally, apply the Solar SPF 30 to face, neck, and décolletage area. Do not allow the client to leave the room without application of the Solar SPF 30.

For more information please contact Spa de Soleil at 800-715-5751, www.spamdi.com, CRR# 256

Published in Signature Treatment

Skin Blends’ Royalty Waxing Services

Skin Blends’ Royalty Waxing Services

Skin Blends

Royalty waxing services surpass the typical “wax on wax off” procedures which will make you stand out amongst your competition. Clients talk; as licensed skin care experts we should be treating the skin both before and after waxing, preventing cross contamination, providing a thorough consultation, and recommending proper home care. Clients will appreciate and reward your efforts with enhanced loyalty and referrals.

>> STEP 1 – Consultation
Perform Client Consultation to protect client from potential harm, as well to explain what they can expect from the service and how to care for skin after service. This is a great time to cross promote other services including potential new waxing areas.
This is the perfect time to sanitize client’s hands as well as they will be probably touch their exposed skin once hair has been removed. Put gloves on. (TIP Put small amount of oil on gloves to prevent gloves from sticking to wax). To begin prep all products and tools to prevent cross contamination.

>> STEP 2 – Cleanse
Use gauze with Pre & Post Wax Cleanser to prepare, cleanse, and protect skin. This will reduce bacteria count to help prevent follicle infection and breakout. The menthol and grapefruit extracts help the hair stand up for more efficient waxing. While applying, check direction of hair growth and condition of hair.

>> STEP 3 – Protect
Apply gauze with Pre & Post Wax Oil to create a protective barrier on the skin. This step makes the waxing service less painful and reduces the risk of lifting skin during the procedure. Be sure to wipe off the excess oil otherwise wax will roll off the skin.

>> STEP 4 – Deposit and Spread Wax
Using a disposable applicator (no double dipping), remove a generous amount of wax from the heater. Turn applicator several rotations to disconnect wax from the tin to lessen dripping. Wipe/deposit the wax from each side of the applicator on the skin then spread while applying pressure in the direction of hair growth.
“Hard Wax” – thicker application leaving ridge around perimeter for easier removal (“Figure 8” application).
“Strip Wax” – use narrow edge of side of applicator at a reverse 45 degree angle (“Snow Plow” application) and pull toward you for super thin application (like saran wrap).

>> STEP 5 – Removal
Remove by pulling wax or strip off skin as close to the skin as possible in the opposite direction of hair growth to prevent lifting, bruising, and pain.

>> STEP 6 – Soothe
Using gauze with Wax Recovery Gel, to soothe skin, calm redness, and remove wax residue. This will simultaneously cool the temperature of the skin and reduce the chance of breakouts caused by follicle trauma. If necessary use Pre & Post Wax Oil afterwards.

>> STEP 7 – Reduce
Use gauze with Less Hair Lotion to reduce inflammation, calm irritated skin, and slow hair re-growth.

>> STEP 8 – Rebook and Home Care
Rebook client and suggest home care products. Less Hair Lotion, Get Acquainted Package (GAP) for Body, Benzoyl Peroxide Scrub, Alpha Beta X (6% Lactic, 3% Glycolic and 1% Salicylic), and SPF 30 (Lotion, Gel, or Cream) are all appropriate after waxing service to soothe, protect, and exfoliate skin. Contact customer 24 to 48 hours after service to make sure they are not experiencing any problems. Thank them for their patronage and ask for referrals.

For more information please contact Skin Blends at 877-754-6253, www.skinblends.com, CRR# 181

Published in Signature Treatment

Jan Marini - August 2010: A Legend in Aesthetics

Jan Marinin


Those who know Jan Marini refer to her as a visionary. While Jan might agree in principle, she sees this characterization as both a strength and a weakness. She envies those who are able to savor the moment. Where others view life in snapshots that capture real time, Jan sees broad borderless landscapes and endless possibilities. She does not see a product, she sees a business and in that same instance her mind is flooded with the business plan and all the accompanying details. Even when she is not envisioning empires, she is never satisfied with the status quo.
Given her background, perhaps this is an understandable if not necessary survival tool. Jan’s mother, Florence, was a single mom of three boys in an era when divorce carried a major stigma. Florence remarried and unexpectedly gave birth to Jan late in life. The family struggled to live a very meager existence. Her father died when she was eight years old and the family was thrust into poverty. Florence worked only menial jobs and food was often scarce. It was no wonder that Jan viewed her world not as it was, but as it might be, and that she softened the bleak reality by envisioning a larger and more optimistic scenario brimming with potential. Because of her early circumstances, Jan is adamant that in order to succeed you must be tenacious, doggedly determined, and completely focused on the ultimate goal.
Jan describes herself as a product researcher. “Back in the early days I was considered a product ingredient expert. I lectured to medical professionals, skin care professionals, and consumers about how ingredients really performed and what they could realistically expect to provide.” She also did talk radio and T.V., because as she puts it, “consumers love to hear about ingredients and whether their products really work. It is a popular topic that lends itself to talk shows.”
Published in AIA Legend

Skin Fact - July 2010

Skin FactsThe medical term for a mole is Nevus. According to the American Academy of Dermatology, the majority of moles show up during the first two decades of a person’s life while about one in every 100 babies is born with moles.
Published in Scope This