The process of skin aging as the years go by and an individual gets older is known as intrinsic aging, which is determined by internal physiological factors and genes. This chronological aging is not preventable. However, extrinsic aging is caused by external sources, such as climate, pollution, diet, and stress. These factors are largely controllable. The greatest culprit of extrinsic aging is photo-damage or the…
When treating skin of color with chemical exfoliation, it is necessary to consider racial background and ethnicity, as well. Ethnicities such as African, Asian, Eastern Indian, Hispanic, Middle Eastern, and Native American are prone to increased melanocyte activity during the inflammatory process. When determining risk factors to chemical peels, charts such as the Fitzpatrick Skin Phototype Chart, Lancer Ethnicity Scale, and Genetico-Racial Skin Classification can…
Are you super excited to learn the hottest trends in the industry, just itching to try it all? You are in good company, believe me. It can seem overwhelming to try and keep up with all that is new, exciting, hot off the press, and trending. The key is to become informed. Start by reading industry trade magazines, such as DERMASCOPE, and attending tradeshows –…
Thursday, 28 March 2019 02:18

Spot Check: Identifying Hyperpigmentation Types and Causes

Written by Lyn Ross, L.M.E.
Hyperpigmentation is the result of an over-proliferation of melanin within a specific area or region of the body. Another name for hyperpigmentation is dyschromia, which refers to the condition related to the darkening of the skin. Ultraviolet radiation is the most well-known extrinsic factor that regulates melanogenesis, which is the skin’s response to protect from the harmful rays of the sun. Hyperpigmentation, or dyschromia, is…
The key to treating all types of pigmentation is early intervention. If nothing is done and the excess melanin leaches into the dermis, it becomes dermal pigmentation. The deeper the pigment, the more difficult it is to treat. It is important to be honest and realistic about what results clients can expect from clinical treatments and what level of commitment to homecare is required to…
What is it about lying in a coffin shaped box while 24 bulbs emit light strong enough to penetrate the subcutaneous layer that is such a hard habit for clients to break? I can sort of understand the beach and pool tanners. At least there you’ll get a bit of scenery and maybe chug a margarita to cool down as you rotate from front to…
Wednesday, 27 March 2019 05:05

Hyperpigmentation: Are You Asking the Right Questions?

Written by René Serbon
Pigmentation is a complex condition that concerns many clients. In fact, complaints about pigmentation from clients often exceed that of aging. Yet, if this is the case, why are treatments for this condition failing? It is a multi-faceted question and the reasons can be numerous, so reviewing the pigmentation process called melanogenesis will aid in exploring the answers. THE MELANOCYTEThe melanocyte is the name of…
Peptides have become one of the most valuable tools used in skin revision, cancer treatment, immune therapy, and health improvement. As skin rejuvenation and youthfulness has become an increasing and growing request, it is imperative for the professional to understand how peptides are able to provide the missing tool to achieve healthy results. SIGNALING PEPTIDESThrough a precise system of communication, cells receive messages that have…
Premature aging – you can spot it a mile away. Do you have clients who complain that people think they are older than they really are and their skin is aging faster than they want it to? If you answered yes, then educating your clients on these three things can help them save their faces: their parents, Mother Nature, and their lifestyle. GENETICSHave a client…
Prior to chemical peel application, there are important risk factors to consider. Understanding these risk factors will help to reduce side effects and will help to achieve optimal clinical outcomes. Risk factors are especially crucial to consider with layered peel application and caution should be taken with certain ethnic groups. When treating ethnic skin, it is essential to have a thorough understanding of skin histology,…
The body is made of over 73 percent water, which is a great conductor. This make the body a perfect apparatus to flow energy in and out. Small amounts of electric current are conducive in maintaining normal cell behavior. This energy, when combined with appropriate frequency, facilitates iontophoresis – balancing sodium, potassium, chlorine ions in the cell – as well as aids in the transportation…
Dark skin is a physical trait that is present amongst diverse ethnic groups, such as African, East Asian, Latino, Middle Eastern, Mediterranean, and Native American. While skin rich in melanin can, for the most part, safely absorb ultraviolet rays, developing acne is unfortunately very common. Consequences of acne in people with dark skin include keloid (raised scar after skin has healed) formation and hyperpigmentation (dark…

Autoimmune Disease and the Skin

Written by Mary Ellen Dorey, RA
While it affects many people, autoimmune diseases does not have a lot of information as to its cause. What is known is that, for autoimmune patients, the body is unable to tell the difference between healthy cells and viral or bacteria agents. This causes white blood cells to attack and destroy other cells and tissues in the body. Patients find that their skin becomes drier,…
Hyperpigmentation is a common skin condition characterized by the appearance of darker pigmented skin relative to the surrounding skin tissues. More likely than not, you’ve tried to explain what pigmentation is, where it comes from, and how to make it go away. Take heart! Pigmentation is a challenging condition that is multi-factorial. Even though pigmentation can be difficult to treat, the light at the end…
While few would drink a glass of expired milk or eat that container of unidentifiable leftovers lurking at the back of the refrigerator, many individuals – professionals and clients alike – use skin care and beauty products far past their prime. Whether this is caused by penny pinching or ignorance, using products beyond their shelf life can lead to less efficacy and potential for bacteria…

Shelf Preservation: An In-Depth Look at Product Shelf Life

Written by Rachael Pontillo, M.Msc, FDN-P, CIHC, LE
When shopping for skin care products, whether backbar or retail, most aestheticians and consumers make their choices based on performance ingredients. They look at the front of the bottle or the packaging to see what miracle or star ingredients the product boasts. Then, they read the product description in the brochure or on the website to see what else is inside and what its purported…
With cutaneous resurfacing there are various options depending on the condition of the skin and desired clinical outcomes. There are three types of exfoliating agents commonly used to resurface the skin. Keratolytic agents, keratocoagulant agents, and proteolytic agents. Keratolytic agents, such as hydroxy acids, work by breaking apart the bonds that hold skin cells together or by dissolving cellular glue. Keratolytic agents include hydroxy acids…
When it comes to beards, shaping, cutting, and trimming facial hairs fall into the barber’s hands, but maintaining the luxuriousness of a man’s beard goes beyond the clippers. The upkeep of a man’s beard requires a knowledgeable skin care professional versed in men’s skin care and grooming. It is always a good idea to offer male clientele gender-specific services that cater to a man’s skin…
Monday, 25 February 2019 01:10

Eczema in the Spa: Causes, Identification, and Treatment

Written by Michele Corley
Eczema is a general term used to describe inflammatory skin conditions exhibiting one or more of the following characteristics (depending on the severity and type of eczema): dryness associated with redness and itching, raised patches, cracks, swelling, small blisters, oozing of a pale yellow or transparent fluid, red or brownish grey patches, raised skin with greasy looking patches, crusty flakes, burning, rash, and scaling. TYPES…
Microneedling and microinfusion techniques are often confused with regard to how each are optimized for the highest efficacy when used for the purposes of skin improvement and introducing active compounds into the skin. These procedures can be technique sensitive, as well. Understanding skin anatomy and physiology are critical in maximizing the effects of the procedures. Multiple clinical studies have been done in laboratories with specific…
The eyes may be the windows to the soul, but the face is the map of how an individual has lived their life. An individual can have a great poker face and hide their feelings, but they can’t hide the physical signs of aging. If a person spent a little too much time sun bathing, it will show. If they pull a lot of all-nighters…

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