With every platform for beauty telling us to avoid oils in fear of causing breakouts, the true benefits of oils have become undervalued. Some products that contain specific oils that are known to be comedogenic will act caustic to acneic types. What aestheticians and skin care providers are missing out on are the rich, hydrating oils that do not congest the skin and rather provide supple, hydrated skin while delivering doses of omegas and antioxidants. This article will discuss the best oils and how to incorporate them into your clients’ routines, as well as which ones to ask them to avoid.
The oil-free craze has gotten quite a bit of attention in the last 10 or so years as being the only way to guarantee a breakout-free complexion. In fact, when we use products that are designed to treat acne, such as benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid, it has a drying effect which causes the sebaceous glands to produce more oil. This leaves an oily sheen, as well as the flakes from the topical beta hydroxy acids. It is vital to recommend a non-comedogenic oil to clients that are actively treating breakouts. Even a few drops added into their current oil-free moisturizer can make a big difference in the amount of dryness they experience.
One of the best ways to use oil on the face is as a makeup remover. Of course, you will want to advise against use on the eye area if a client has eyelash extensions. Since oil bonds to makeup, it allows even the most stubborn of foundation and eye makeup to be removed. This technique keeps the skin hydrated while cleansing the face, rather than using products with alcohol that will remove all necessary lipids. If a client is, in fact, prone to congestion or breakouts, it is recommended to follow with a second cleanse with a gel, cream, or foam cleanser.
NON-COEDOGENIC OILS TO INCORPORATE
Here are the best non-comedogenic oils to incorporate.
Jojoba oil is derived from the seeds of a shrub and native to North America. Jojoba is the most utilized oil in the beauty industry due to its light consistency and ease of use. Aestheticians and massage therapists love jojoba oil for a massage medium, since it is non-comedogenic. It can be used on its own or mixed into a moisturizer.
Marula oil is a non-comedogenic oil that originates from the leaves of the Marula tree, which is a tree native to Africa. It is known to have healing properties for topical conditions, such as eczema or psoriasis, and is light enough to add to a moisturizer or for use on its own.
Camellia or tsubaki oil is derived from the seeds of the camellia oleifera, a plant native to China. This oil is rich in fatty acids and is also non-comedogenic. Camellia oil works as an incredible oil cleanse, as it is slightly thicker.
Crambe Seed oil is derived from the seeds of the Abyssinian plant, native to the Mediterranean. Crambe seed oil is high in omegas and specifically high in erucic acid, an omega-9. It is also anti-inflammatory, so this is a great option to incorporate into any acneic or reactive client’s routine.
Rosehip oil has natural antibacterial properties, allowing it to be one of the best oils for use on congested, acne-prone clients. It has a high dose of vitamins A, C, and E, as well as antioxidants.
Maracuja oil is a non-comedogenic oil derived from passionfruit seeds. High in vitamins A and C, this oil can help with brightening the complexion. This oil is rich in antioxidants and is also anti-inflammatory. It has a medium consistency and can be used alone or mixed into a moisturizer for added hydration.
Argan oil is extracted from the kernels of the Argan tree, native to Morocco. Argan oil has a high concentration of vitamin E and a medium consistency and can be used alone or added into a heat.
One great way to use any of the above mentioned oils is to add them into your clients’ routines when the winter season approaches. Regardless of skin type, the weather does have an effect on skin’s moisture levels and, by adding a few drops to the areas that get the most dry, it can help alleviate the discomfort and maintain maximum hydration during the colder months.
OILS TO AVOID
On the other end of the spectrum, we have oils that are known to be comedogenic and caustic to the skin. These should be avoided if a client is prone to acne lesions or congestion.
Coconut oil is derived from coconuts and has a very thick consistency. It has a high comedogenic rating and, therefore, should not be used on the face if the client has acne-prone skin. With the compound properties of this oil, clients do run the risk of aggravating acne and congestion. Coconut oil does, however, have other benefits and should remain safe for use on the body, hair, and nails.
Wheat germ oil is found in a broad range of geographical locations, as it is derived from wheat kernel. Although the comedogenic rating is on the higher side when applied topically, wheat germ oil, when ingested, can do wonders for the body and, therefore, the skin.
Always be sure to incorporate oils that are integrally sourced and in their most pure form. In the professional realm, skin care companies are really starting to pick up on creating luxurious oils for their clients in need. There are plenty of different options based on what the client needs in addition to added moisture.
With over eight years working alongside well-known plastic surgeons across the United States and two years as a licensed aesthetician, Dotson has seen both the forefront and behind the scenes of the aesthetic industry. With her passion for skin care rooting, from cystic acne in her younger years, she does inclusive research on each product before purchasing to ensure they are high quality and effective. Dotson is a territory manager for a professional skin care line in Texas and uses her love for the industry and the people in it to bring education and support to her spa partners.