Search
  Advanced Search
Results Total: 6846 results found.
Refine your search by section:  Community (537)  Articles (4324)  Company Listings (1985)
 Display
By | January 21, 2019

by Sam Dhatt & Allyson Rogers

 

New ingredients are being introduced into the skin care market everyday and with the market being a multi-billion dollar industry, this phenomenon won’t slow down anytime soon. Having narrowed down the hundreds of ingredients, here are the top ingredients to look for in current skin care formulations.

 

Peptides are Here to Stay

First and foremost, we must discuss the continued interest of the use of peptides in the industry. Traditional actives formulated in skin care products consist of natural sources such as essential oils, plant-extracts, and vitamins. As helpful as these natural sources can be, they can be limited in their overall effectiveness. With the introduction of peptides into the skin care arena, it has changed the industry with these specific molecules being able to mimic our skin’s own physiological processes and interact with components in our skin, such as neuromediators and hormones. This type of peptide is referred to as “biomimetic”. With the extreme popularity of peptides in the anti-aging range and with the knowledge that peptides are an effective source of cell to cell communication, new peptides are being developed that perform as UV inhibitors, antimicrobial agents, and tyrosinase inhibitors. The list of discoveries in the peptide range can (and probably will) go on and on. Their expansion in the anti-aging range as well as the other skin care categories which affect the skin such as UV-protecting, melanin-suppressing, and acne-prevention will be exciting.

 

 

Melanostatin-5

With the FDA alert on hydroquinone, it is essential that formulators find alternative and effective ingredients which can block tyrosinase – the enzyme that is responsible for melanin production. The introduction of the peptide Melanostatin-5 is an important addition to the anti-tyrosinase arsenal currently on the market. Melanostatin-5 is a biomimetic peptide that works as an antagonist on the MC1-R receptor of the melanin stimulating hormone (α-MSH), blocking tyrosinase activity and therefore, blocking the overproduction of melanin. Melanostatin-5 works well with other tyrosinase-inhibiting ingredients such as kojic acid, licorice root, and arbutin, providing a more complete skin lightening effect on the skin.

 

Syn®-Coll

Many skin care companies on the market include a particular anti-aging ingredient, TGF-β (Tissue Growth Factor), into their skin care formulations. Considering TGF-β is a key element in collagen production and collagen is the main component of the extra cellular matrix, this is no surprise. A recent and alternative approach is to stimulating our body’s own TGF-β to activate collagen biosynthesis and this can be accomplished by a newer peptide on the market named Syn®-Coll, which is a tripeptide (palmitoyl tripeptide-3). Syn®-Coll is a biomimetic peptide that copies the amino acid sequence of Thrombospondin 1 (ARG-PHE-LYS), which is a key component in stimulating TGF-β in our skin cells. This is a relevant introduction because peptides are known to have excellent stability; they are widely accepted by our bodies since we manufacture proteins already; and peptides do not have an odor, which makes for a pleasant experience for the customer in the finished product containing Syn®-Coll.

 

Wrinkle Smoothing Peptides/Topical Botox Alternative

If you’ve heard the term “Botox in a Bottle” then you’ve heard about the most popular anti-aging peptide in the skin care market to date—Argireline®. This hexapeptide (six amino acids in a chain) works in a very similar manner as Botox® by altering the formation of the SNARE complex, which is the end terminal neural signal responsible for muscle contractions. Any alteration in the SNARE complex disengages the signal telling the muscle to contract, which in turn leads to temporary muscle paralysis. Botox® and Argireline® both affect muscle contractions through manipulation of the SNARE complex, the difference being Botox® temporarily paralyzes the muscle and Argireline® relaxes the muscle. Newer versions of this popular peptide have been created based on the success of Argireline®. One such peptide is Snap-8, which is an octapeptide and works very similarly as Argireline® but its elongated chain (eight amino acids in a chain) has a stronger effect on relaxing muscle contractions. Another peptide, Syn®-Ake, is a tri-peptide (three amino acids in a chain), which mimics the neuromuscular blocking compound found in the Temple Viper snake. The sequence of the amino acids in Syn®-Ake blocks the acetylcholine receptor site in the muscle tissue, thus blocking the ability to create a muscle contraction. Snap-8 and Syn®-Ake are both important additions to the “skin smoothing” peptide family and they are considered a beneficial adjunct to formulations containing Argireline. An interesting note to mention is many physicians in the cosmetic enhancement arena look for skin care formulations containing such above wrinkle smoothing ingredients due to the fact that Botox® is limited when injected in the eye area for crow’s feet. The wrinkles in the lower eyelid area cannot be treated with Botox® and using a product such as an eye treatment formulated with one, if not all, of the above mentioned skin smoothing peptides can address those particular wrinkles and in the best way they can.

 

Slimbuster™ H

Cellulite is a problem for many individuals, regardless of shape or size. For some, no matter how much exercise or dietary changes are made to lessen cellulite or localized fat, it is difficult to treat. Newer cellulite ingredients have entered the market to prevent and remove cellulite from a mode of action based on two main mechanisms involved in cellulite formation: lipolysis (breakdown of fat in fat cells) and lipogenesis inhibition (prevention of fat storage in fat cells). Slimbuster-H is an important recent addition in the arsenal to treat cellulite due to its ability to address both lipolysis and lipogenesis inhibition. Slimbuster-H is comprised of plant extracts from the Amazon rainforest including Marapuama (Ptychopetalum olacoides), Catuaba (Trichilia catigua), and Pfáfia (Pfaffia sp). One function of these plant extracts is they increase microcirculation, which in turn drains the edema of localized fatty areas, resulting in a smoother and slimmer appearance. Another benefit of Slimbuster-H is its ability to directly activate lipolysis and lipogenesis inhibition by modulating specific mechanisms in our body that affect the build-up of fat cells. These mechanisms are referred to as neuroimmunomodulation mechanisms. They signal either neurotransmitters (neuropeptide Y, alfa-2 receptor) or immune cells (TNF-alpha), which affect both lipolysis and lipogenesis inhibition. Slimbuster-H is a unique ingredient because it is the first ingredient of this kind that has been engineered to address the neuroimmunomodulation affect of fat cells to combat cellulite and localized fat.

 

Renovage™

With the continuous growth in the anti-aging arena a logical step for skin care innovators to take is to research and create ingredients which repair and protect our DNA. Telomeres, which are a part of our DNA, are responsible for the time span our cells live. Telomeres are found at the end of chromosomes in our DNA and shorten with each cycle of cell differentiation. Every time a cell divides, the length of telomeres shorten until it reaches such a limited length that the cell no longer divides; this phase is referred to as senescence. Besides normal cell division affecting the length of telomeres, oxidative stress due to UV or environmental elements or even our body’s own mitochondrial dysfunctions (due to age and stress) can lead to DNA breaks and therefore, a shortening of telomere length. With this knowledge, finding a way to stabilize telomeres and maintain healthy DNA would equate to increased phases of cell division and a healthy maintenance of our vital skin cells. A new ingredient of particular interest to formulators which addresses aging at the DNA level is Renovage™. This active ingredient stabilizes DNA and its telomeres as well as increases the efficiency of our body’s own DNA repair processes, which becomes dysfunctional as we age. The skin looks visibly younger from using Renovage™, with an improved barrier function, improved skin tone, smaller pore size, reduction of UV damage, and less redness or erythrosis of the skin. Renovage™ is an impressive “repair and protect” ingredient that addresses the many physiological aspects of aging, making this sound ingredient stand out in today’s anti-aging skin care market.

 

Hyaluronic Filling Spheres™

Another compelling ingredient to add to the list of non-invasive injectibles is the “topical filler” Hyaluronic Filling Spheres™. This novel ingredient is composed of dehydrated hyaluronic acid (HA), which is able to rapidly penetrate the skin. Once the spheres come in contact with the skin’s natural water sources (TEWL), the HA takes up this water and the spheres swell, creating volume and filling in the “gaps” or wrinkles. Another benefit of the HA spheres is once they take up the surrounding water from TEWL, the result is long-term hydration in the epidermis, providing yet another reason to covet the benefits of hyaluronic acid, our body’s own natural hydrator. It is suggested Hyaluronic Filling Spheres™ are incorporated in lip enhancing products and eye creams for its “plumping” effect, and it may even provide that temporary “fill” that certain injectibles could satisfy in the eye or lip area. Some may see this as a nice adjunct or even an alternative to certain injectibles, as applying a product containing the HA spheres is temporary (lasts six hours in the skin), it won’t make you bruise, and best of all, it’s pain-free.

 

Botanistat PF-64

The awareness of environmentally-friendly products and packaging, has led to an industry movement towards parabens being eliminated as a preservation system in skin care formulations. In response to this movement is a globally-approved paraben-free and broad spectrum antimicrobial preservative system named Botanistat PF-64. Utilizing this system provides environmentally aware benefits while providing safe and stable, non-sensitizing products. As an added benefit, Botanistat PF-64 also provides skin conditioning properties, which is an attractive addition to the already non-irritating nature of this preservative system. Purchasing products containing paraben-free preservatives is a conscious decision that the discerning consumer is looking for in current skin care formulations and manufacturers need to comply with this new demand.

 

Skin care products with the above mentioned ingredients provides formulators with innovative and effective anti-aging, slimming, cell protecting, skin-plumping, and paraben-alternatives which deliver compelling results. Just think about how far we have come since glycolic acid was the pioneering ingredient in the skin care market. We have come a long way! New and exciting ingredients will continue being discovered and these new technologies will continue to change the “face” of the skin care industry.

 

 

Sam Dhatt is a world-renowned, award-winning cosmeceutical chemist, who serves as the CEO and president of DermaQuest Skin Therapy. During his 20-plus year career as a sought-after formulator, Dhatt has formulated and manufactured skin care products for over 700 companies, including many of the best-known brands in the industry. Dhatt leads a team of beauty experts who share his philosophies and goals of developing and delivering the safest, most advanced products possible to clinical professionals. Dhatt is a frequent expert-author of articles featured in many trade journals and skin care publications.

Allyson Rogers is a licensed aesthetician with a true passion for the skin care industry, which is evident when you see her teach a class or demo the latest peel. With a degree and background in business before obtaining her license in aesthetics, Roger’s previous experience helped developed her approach to skin care which is both practical and scientific. It is her continuous mission to bring the latest developments in skin care to the DermaQuest Skin Therapy line.

 



Read More
By | January 21, 2019

Skin Blends’ Royalty Waxing Services

Skin Blends

Royalty waxing services surpass the typical “wax on wax off” procedures which will make you stand out amongst your competition. Clients talk; as licensed skin care experts we should be treating the skin both before and after waxing, preventing cross contamination, providing a thorough consultation, and recommending proper home care. Clients will appreciate and reward your efforts with enhanced loyalty and referrals.

>> STEP 1 – Consultation
Perform Client Consultation to protect client from potential harm, as well to explain what they can expect from the service and how to care for skin after service. This is a great time to cross promote other services including potential new waxing areas.
This is the perfect time to sanitize client’s hands as well as they will be probably touch their exposed skin once hair has been removed. Put gloves on. (TIP Put small amount of oil on gloves to prevent gloves from sticking to wax). To begin prep all products and tools to prevent cross contamination.

>> STEP 2 – Cleanse
Use gauze with Pre & Post Wax Cleanser to prepare, cleanse, and protect skin. This will reduce bacteria count to help prevent follicle infection and breakout. The menthol and grapefruit extracts help the hair stand up for more efficient waxing. While applying, check direction of hair growth and condition of hair.

>> STEP 3 – Protect
Apply gauze with Pre & Post Wax Oil to create a protective barrier on the skin. This step makes the waxing service less painful and reduces the risk of lifting skin during the procedure. Be sure to wipe off the excess oil otherwise wax will roll off the skin.

>> STEP 4 – Deposit and Spread Wax
Using a disposable applicator (no double dipping), remove a generous amount of wax from the heater. Turn applicator several rotations to disconnect wax from the tin to lessen dripping. Wipe/deposit the wax from each side of the applicator on the skin then spread while applying pressure in the direction of hair growth.
“Hard Wax” – thicker application leaving ridge around perimeter for easier removal (“Figure 8” application).
“Strip Wax” – use narrow edge of side of applicator at a reverse 45 degree angle (“Snow Plow” application) and pull toward you for super thin application (like saran wrap).

>> STEP 5 – Removal
Remove by pulling wax or strip off skin as close to the skin as possible in the opposite direction of hair growth to prevent lifting, bruising, and pain.

>> STEP 6 – Soothe
Using gauze with Wax Recovery Gel, to soothe skin, calm redness, and remove wax residue. This will simultaneously cool the temperature of the skin and reduce the chance of breakouts caused by follicle trauma. If necessary use Pre & Post Wax Oil afterwards.

>> STEP 7 – Reduce
Use gauze with Less Hair Lotion to reduce inflammation, calm irritated skin, and slow hair re-growth.

>> STEP 8 – Rebook and Home Care
Rebook client and suggest home care products. Less Hair Lotion, Get Acquainted Package (GAP) for Body, Benzoyl Peroxide Scrub, Alpha Beta X (6% Lactic, 3% Glycolic and 1% Salicylic), and SPF 30 (Lotion, Gel, or Cream) are all appropriate after waxing service to soothe, protect, and exfoliate skin. Contact customer 24 to 48 hours after service to make sure they are not experiencing any problems. Thank them for their patronage and ask for referrals.

For more information please contact Skin Blends at 877-754-6253, www.skinblends.com, CRR# 181



Read More
By | January 21, 2019

Skin Blends’ Royalty Waxing Services

Skin Blends

Royalty waxing services surpass the typical “wax on wax off” procedures which will make you stand out amongst your competition. Clients talk; as licensed skin care experts we should be treating the skin both before and after waxing, preventing cross contamination, providing a thorough consultation, and recommending proper home care. Clients will appreciate and reward your efforts with enhanced loyalty and referrals.

>> STEP 1 – Consultation
Perform Client Consultation to protect client from potential harm, as well to explain what they can expect from the service and how to care for skin after service. This is a great time to cross promote other services including potential new waxing areas.
This is the perfect time to sanitize client’s hands as well as they will be probably touch their exposed skin once hair has been removed. Put gloves on. (TIP Put small amount of oil on gloves to prevent gloves from sticking to wax). To begin prep all products and tools to prevent cross contamination.

>> STEP 2 – Cleanse
Use gauze with Pre & Post Wax Cleanser to prepare, cleanse, and protect skin. This will reduce bacteria count to help prevent follicle infection and breakout. The menthol and grapefruit extracts help the hair stand up for more efficient waxing. While applying, check direction of hair growth and condition of hair.

>> STEP 3 – Protect
Apply gauze with Pre & Post Wax Oil to create a protective barrier on the skin. This step makes the waxing service less painful and reduces the risk of lifting skin during the procedure. Be sure to wipe off the excess oil otherwise wax will roll off the skin.

>> STEP 4 – Deposit and Spread Wax
Using a disposable applicator (no double dipping), remove a generous amount of wax from the heater. Turn applicator several rotations to disconnect wax from the tin to lessen dripping. Wipe/deposit the wax from each side of the applicator on the skin then spread while applying pressure in the direction of hair growth.
“Hard Wax” – thicker application leaving ridge around perimeter for easier removal (“Figure 8” application).
“Strip Wax” – use narrow edge of side of applicator at a reverse 45 degree angle (“Snow Plow” application) and pull toward you for super thin application (like saran wrap).

>> STEP 5 – Removal
Remove by pulling wax or strip off skin as close to the skin as possible in the opposite direction of hair growth to prevent lifting, bruising, and pain.

>> STEP 6 – Soothe
Using gauze with Wax Recovery Gel, to soothe skin, calm redness, and remove wax residue. This will simultaneously cool the temperature of the skin and reduce the chance of breakouts caused by follicle trauma. If necessary use Pre & Post Wax Oil afterwards.

>> STEP 7 – Reduce
Use gauze with Less Hair Lotion to reduce inflammation, calm irritated skin, and slow hair re-growth.

>> STEP 8 – Rebook and Home Care
Rebook client and suggest home care products. Less Hair Lotion, Get Acquainted Package (GAP) for Body, Benzoyl Peroxide Scrub, Alpha Beta X (6% Lactic, 3% Glycolic and 1% Salicylic), and SPF 30 (Lotion, Gel, or Cream) are all appropriate after waxing service to soothe, protect, and exfoliate skin. Contact customer 24 to 48 hours after service to make sure they are not experiencing any problems. Thank them for their patronage and ask for referrals.

For more information please contact Skin Blends at 877-754-6253, www.skinblends.com, CRR# 181



Read More
By | January 21, 2019

Cosmetic Exfoliants vs. Medical Peels for Sun Damaged Skin

The skin has been compared throughout history as a branch, an extension of the body, where ill health and physical/emotional imbalances are reflected. Just like the leaves and bark of a tree, skin is exposed to the harsh effects of the environment and internal influences. This outer coat that we have so much in common with is designed by nature as protection from external harshness. Both lose this armor through season changes, in order to eliminate the old, renewing it’s self, thus strengthening against the forces that try to degrade the integrity of the core body. The ability to ward off pollutants, free radicals, and toxins is possible through pigmentation, immune response, oily secretions, and a healthy diet that includes antioxidants.

The root of the tree functions similarly to the vascular system in our body. It draws from the Earth’s nutrients and chemicals that flow through its vessels finally reaching the branches and leaves, thus providing them with sustainable recourses. So when we care for skin that has been neglected or damaged by environment, we must understand the effects of peels and exfoliants and ensure that the internal function is balanced and supported.

External Influences
Sun exposure (UVA) causes long-term harm and (UVB) causes immediate damage. The most significant damage is the UVB rays, which suppress the immune system. Sunlight accounts for 90 percent of the symptoms of premature aging. Most of the photo aging effects occur by age 20. Damage is determined by the total lifetime amount of radiation exposure and the person’s natural protection. Ultraviolet rays destroy the cells that produce melanin. When melanin is destroyed the skin’s natural protection from light is compromised. Chronic accumulation of UVA radiation penetrates deeper into the skin and works more efficiently at degrading collagen. UVA is “not filtered” by glass. Chronic accumulation of: UVB radiation affects the outer layer of skin and is primarily responsible for sunburns. UVA and UVB cause structural breakdown, dehydration, and
pigmentation disorders.

The following skin conditions
can occur:

  • thinning to dermis
  • dehydration
  • poor elasticity
  • dryness
  • hyperpigmentation, uneven pigmentation
  • depleted nourishment
  • accumulated dead skin cells
  • skin cancer
  • inflammation
  • lowers immune response
  • weaken capillaries
  • permeability to the cells

The most significant damage we see in the epidermis is dehydration; decreased immune response and disturbance to cell cohesion and melanin. Sunlight traumatizes the epidermis, activating enzymes that cause inflammation, which breaks down the protective layer around cells. The cell membrane becomes more permeable allowing cells to dehydrate.

Sunlight affects all aspects of dermal function. Sunlight generates free radicals that elevate enzymes called collagenase that degrade skin collagen. This results in the formation of “disorganized” collagen fibers as solar scars. When the skin repeats this imperfect rebuilding process over and over wrinkles develop.

Pigmentation Disorders
The following are a list of pigmentation disorders.

Sunspots: Lentigos are a product of cumulative sun exposure, not directly related to sunburns from a single day.
Freckles: Ephildes develop in fair skin individuals as the skin’s natural defense from sun exposure.
Post-Inflammatory: A common occurrence after injury to skin or severe irritation that may be a result of acne, bad chemical peels, rashes, or laser surgery.

Melasma: The darkening of the skin’s pigmentation, caused by the female hormone estrogen. Normal in pregnancy, this brownish discoloration can also be caused by birth control pills that contain estrogen as well as foods that increase estrogen levels.

Sun-Sensitizing Medications
Sunlight in “conjunction” with medication and certain foods all affect the production of tyrasinase and melanin. So if your client is taking any of the following medications, be sure to advise them they should use a UVA protection, antioxidants, melanin inhibitors, and support the skin’s immune system with daily home care.

  • antidepressants
  • birth control
  • allergen medication
  • cancer medications
  • cold medications
  • high blood pressure
  • medications
  • St. John’s Wort
  • antibiotics
  • anti arthritis medications

Foods that Increase Pigmentation

  • genistein found in soy
  • foods with colorants
  • coffee
  • tea
  • diet soda
  • sugar-free foods
  • aspartame – increases
  • production of eumelanin (a type of melanin)

Cosmetic vs. Medical Preparations that Exfoliate and Peel
So what are the differences between an exfoliant and a peel? Exfoliants loosen the cohesion of dead cells by digesting, sloughing, or dissolving these cells from the upper layers of the epidermis. Exfoliants only work on dead skin cells and waste material. They do not affect living tissue and they do not initiate an inflammatory response

A peel works by literally peeling cells and tissue. They affect mid–epidermis to mid-dermis, depending on the modality. Peels do not discriminate and therefore take living tissue with them in the process. They do initiate an inflammatory response. Knowing which layer of skin is affected by these solutions will help you to determine which one to use in repair and restoration of sun damage.

How exactly do these Exfoliants work?

Salicylic acid is derived from willow bark, winter green leaves, and sweet birch bark. It promotes exfoliation of the surface cells and in particular the cells lining the sebaceous ducts. It works on blackheads by loosening the plugs, and peels the rim of the pore thus creating a more exposed opening for removal. They prevent the cells lining the gland from sticking together, promoting more effective exfoliation and more even flow of sebum secretion. Salicylic acid is recommended for the treatment of bacteria, clogged pores, and thicker oilier skin types. It is an anti-inflammatory, however it does not increase the moisture barrier.

Fruity Acids such as glycolic, which is derived from sugar cane, cause the cells of the epidermis to become unglued, allowing the dead skin cells to slough off, making room for regrowth of the new skin. Concentrations of five to eight percent with pH 3 to 4 are used in a cosmetic practice. Fruity acids brighten pigmentation, soften fine lines, stimulate skin function, and are recommended for dry, thicker skin types.

Lactic Clay is derived from milk products and will increase the natural moisture barrier. It has an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory property, which calms irritated skin and is recommended for any skin type, but especially sensitive, thin skins.

Vitamin C is known as ascorbic acid and is a water-soluble vitamin. Vitamin C is required for the synthesis of collagen and neurotransmitters. Vitamin C is also a highly effective antioxidant. It can be found in oranges, grapefruit, strawberries, papaya, tomatoes, broccoli, and potatoes. It improves skin tone, skin pigmentation, skin texture, and softens skin. Caution should be used when applying vitamin C to sensitive, dehydrated skins.

Enzymes are natural, biological enzymes found in papaya, rice, mushrooms, barley, pineapple, and certain clays. They are used as keratolytic agents, which mean they dissolve dead skin cells and waste material. Enzymes are special organic substances that act as biological catalysts, which dissolves dead cuticle. Enzymes improve circulation, skin tone, and texture; it softens skin and is non-irritating; it dissolves impurities and waste within the pore; and it is recommended for any skin type and condition.

Mechanical scrubs consist of finely ground seeds, nuts, skins, etc., mixed with a cream or oil and when applied, they mechanically slough off the dead skin cells. Mechanical scrubs soften skin, improve texture, circulation, and skin tone. They are recommended for thick, course skins with no visible signs of compromised capillaries.
Clays work also as biological catalyst by loosening, drawing, lifting, and dissolving dead skin cells. Since clays are a rich source of minerals, they provide so many other benefits to the skin’s function. They improve skin pigmentation, skin tone, hydrate, offer antioxidant properties, and boost immune response.
Glycolic Acid – the percentage ranges from 30 to 70 percent - and pH will vary. It penetrates from mid-epidermis to dermis. This percentage of glycolic initiates an inflammatory response and can improve course skin texture, fine lines, and wrinkles and stimulates cell regeneration. Depending on the percentage and the pH, glycolic acids can be applied to face, hands, chest, arms, and legs.

Microdermabrasion –performed using a machine that sprays fine crystals across the skin, removing the top layer vacuuming the crystals and debris away. Another type of procedure is done with a machine using a diamond tip wand that rotates removing surface dead skin cells. Microdermabrasion works by causing a small amount of trauma to the skin, causing the skin to repair itself in a more organized fashion. Fibroblasts are initiated by inflammation. This inflammatory response should not be confused with heating of the skin. The presence of numerous chemicals that are involved in the inflammatory process show that a reparative process is going on post-treatment. Microdermabration smoothes the skin surface, decreases oiliness, thins skin, and fine wrinkles may appear smaller. It has been noted that there is also an increase in firmness with this treatment.

TCA – Trichloroacetic Acid –another commonly used peeling agent. Concentrations of 20 to 50 percent are commonly employed. TCA solution will produce a superficial shedding of the stratum corneum after a single application. A 20 percent TCA solution affects mid-epidermis, where a 50 percent solution affects upper-dermis. TCA improves acne scars, severe sun damage, skin wrinkling, skin cancers, severe sun damage and is only applied to the face.

Blue Peel – Unlike alphahydroxy peels or other superficial procedures, the Blue Peel allows your doctor to control the depth of the peel and the number of coats applied in order to tailor the process to the skin’s specific needs. It is a low concentration of the chemical trichloroacetic acid (TCA) mixed with a special blue base to slow penetration. It is used to smooth scars, improve brown spots, skin cancers, age spots, fine wrinkles, and tattoos. It can be performed on the neck, chest, hands, arms, and legs.

Phenol Chemical Peel is a procedure in which a prepared phenol solution is applied to the face in order to burn the skin’s outer layer, the epidermis, and part of the dermis. This is essentially no different from the process that takes place after a limited second-degree burn. The removal of a portion of the dermis stimulates the growth of new tissue and helps promote a partial rebuilding of the skin. It is used for severe cases of deep wrinkles, scarred skin, and severe sun damaged skin. It is only applied to
the face.

Though aestheticians do not apply medical solutions, we play an intricate role in the support and recovery of medically treated tissue.

Anne C. Willis has been part of the aesthetic industry since 1976. As a contributor to several major trade magazines, co-author of industry books, and guest speaker to both international medical and aesthetic conventions, Willis has become a recognized expert in the field of aesthetics and spa therapies. Willis offers premiere educational programs and customized training to schools and spas. For more information, please call 828-230-5125, e-mail annecwillis@earthlink.net, or visit www.annecwillis.com.



Read More
By | January 21, 2019
skin factThe color of skin depends primarily on a pigment called melanin. It is also influenced by the blood flow through the skin. Melanin is a pigment produced by special cells called melanocytes that manufacture packets of melanin called melanosomes and transfer them to the skin cells of the epidermis the keratinocytes. In white people the darkest area is the upper thigh and the lower back is the lightest. In black people the abdomen is the darkest.


Read More
By | January 21, 2019

New ingredients are being introduced into the skin care market everyday and with the market being a multi-billion dollar industry, this phenomenon won’t slow down anytime soon. Having narrowed down the hundreds of ingredients, here are the top ingredients to look for in current skin care formulations.

Peptides are Here to Stay
First and foremost, we must discuss the continued interest of the use of peptides in the industry. Traditional actives formulated in skin care products consist of natural sources such as essential oils, plant-extracts, and vitamins. As helpful as these natural sources can be, they can be limited in their overall effectiveness. With the introduction of peptides into the skin care arena, it has changed the industry with these specific molecules being able to mimic our skin’s own physiological processes and interact with components in our skin, such as neuromediators and hormones. This type of peptide is referred to as “biomimetic”. With the extreme popularity of peptides in the anti-aging range and with the knowledge that peptides are an effective source of cell to cell communication, new peptides are being developed that perform as UV inhibitors, antimicrobial agents, and tyrosinase inhibitors. The list of discoveries in the peptide range can (and probably will) go on and on. Their expansion in the anti-aging range as well as the other skin care categories which affect the skin such as UV-protecting, melanin-suppressing, and acne-prevention will be exciting.

Melanostatin-5
With the FDA alert on hydroquinone, it is essential that formulators find alternative and effective ingredients which can block tyrosinase – the enzyme that is responsible for melanin production. The introduction of the peptide Melanostatin-5 is an important addition to the anti-tyrosinase arsenal currently on the market. Melanostatin-5 is a biomimetic peptide that works as an antagonist on the MC1-R receptor of the melanin stimulating hormone (α-MSH), blocking tyrosinase activity and therefore, blocking the overproduction of melanin. Melanostatin-5 works well with other tyrosinase-inhibiting ingredients such as kojic acid, licorice root, and arbutin, providing a more complete skin lightening effect on the skin.

Syn®-Coll
Many skin care companies on the market include a particular anti-aging ingredient, TGF-β (Tissue Growth Factor), into their skin care formulations. Considering TGF-β is a key element in collagen production and collagen is the main component of the extra cellular matrix, this is no surprise. A recent and alternative approach is to stimulating our body’s own TGF-β to activate collagen biosynthesis and this can be accomplished by a newer peptide on the market named Syn®-Coll, which is a tripeptide (palmitoyl tripeptide-3). Syn®-Coll is a biomimetic peptide that copies the amino acid sequence of Thrombospondin 1 (ARG-PHE-LYS), which is a key component in stimulating TGF-β in our skin cells. This is a relevant introduction because peptides are known to have excellent stability; they are widely accepted by our bodies since we manufacture proteins already; and peptides do not have an odor, which makes for a pleasant experience for the customer in the finished product containing Syn®-Coll.

Wrinkle Smoothing Peptides/Topical Botox Alternative
If you’ve heard the term “Botox in a Bottle” then you’ve heard about the most popular anti-aging peptide in the skin care market to date—Argireline®. This hexapeptide (six amino acids in a chain) works in a very similar manner as Botox® by altering the formation of the SNARE complex, which is the end terminal neural signal responsible for muscle contractions. Any alteration in the SNARE complex disengages the signal telling the muscle to contract, which in turn leads to temporary muscle paralysis. Botox® and Argireline® both affect muscle contractions through manipulation of the SNARE complex, the difference being Botox® temporarily paralyzes the muscle and Argireline® relaxes the muscle. Newer versions of this popular peptide have been created based on the success of Argireline®. One such peptide is Snap-8, which is an octapeptide and works very similarly as Argireline® but its elongated chain (eight amino acids in a chain) has a stronger effect on relaxing muscle contractions. Another peptide, Syn®-Ake, is a tri-peptide (three amino acids in a chain), which mimics the neuromuscular blocking compound found in the Temple Viper snake. The sequence of the amino acids in Syn®-Ake blocks the acetylcholine receptor site in the muscle tissue, thus blocking the ability to create a muscle contraction. Snap-8 and Syn®-Ake are both important additions to the “skin smoothing” peptide family and they are considered a beneficial adjunct to formulations containing Argireline. An interesting note to mention is many physicians in the cosmetic enhancement arena look for skin care formulations containing such above wrinkle smoothing ingredients due to the fact that Botox® is limited when injected in the eye area for crow’s feet. The wrinkles in the lower eyelid area cannot be treated with Botox® and using a product such as an eye treatment formulated with one, if not all, of the above mentioned skin smoothing peptides can address those particular wrinkles and in the best way they can.

Slimbuster™ H
Cellulite is a problem for many individuals, regardless of shape or size. For some, no matter how much exercise or dietary changes are made to lessen cellulite or localized fat, it is difficult to treat. Newer cellulite ingredients have entered the market to prevent and remove cellulite from a mode of action based on two main mechanisms involved in cellulite formation: lipolysis (breakdown of fat in fat cells) and lipogenesis inhibition (prevention of fat storage in fat cells). Slimbuster-H is an important recent addition in the arsenal to treat cellulite due to its ability to address both lipolysis and lipogenesis inhibition. Slimbuster-H is comprised of plant extracts from the Amazon rainforest including Marapuama (Ptychopetalum olacoides), Catuaba (Trichilia catigua), and Pfáfia (Pfaffia sp). One function of these plant extracts is they increase microcirculation, which in turn drains the edema of localized fatty areas, resulting in a smoother and slimmer appearance. Another benefit of Slimbuster-H is its ability to directly activate lipolysis and lipogenesis inhibition by modulating specific mechanisms in our body that affect the build-up of fat cells. These mechanisms are referred to as neuroimmunomodulation mechanisms. They signal either neurotransmitters (neuropeptide Y, alfa-2 receptor) or immune cells (TNF-alpha), which affect both lipolysis and lipogenesis inhibition. Slimbuster-H is a unique ingredient because it is the first ingredient of this kind that has been engineered to address the neuroimmunomodulation affect of fat cells to combat cellulite and localized fat.

Renovage™
With the continuous growth in the anti-aging arena a logical step for skin care innovators to take is to research and create ingredients which repair and protect our DNA. Telomeres, which are a part of our DNA, are responsible for the time span our cells live. Telomeres are found at the end of chromosomes in our DNA and shorten with each cycle of cell differentiation. Every time a cell divides, the length of telomeres shorten until it reaches such a limited length that the cell no longer divides; this phase is referred to as senescence. Besides normal cell division affecting the length of telomeres, oxidative stress due to UV or environmental elements or even our body’s own mitochondrial dysfunctions (due to age and stress) can lead to DNA breaks and therefore, a shortening of telomere length. With this knowledge, finding a way to stabilize telomeres and maintain healthy DNA would equate to increased phases of cell division and a healthy maintenance of our vital skin cells. A new ingredient of particular interest to formulators which addresses aging at the DNA level is Renovage™. This active ingredient stabilizes DNA and its telomeres as well as increases the efficiency of our body’s own DNA repair processes, which becomes dysfunctional as we age. The skin looks visibly younger from using Renovage™, with an improved barrier function, improved skin tone, smaller pore size, reduction of UV damage, and less redness or erythrosis of the skin. Renovage™ is an impressive “repair and protect” ingredient that addresses the many physiological aspects of aging, making this sound ingredient stand out in today’s anti-aging skin care market.

Hyaluronic Filling Spheres™
Another compelling ingredient to add to the list of non-invasive injectibles is the “topical filler” Hyaluronic Filling Spheres™. This novel ingredient is composed of dehydrated hyaluronic acid (HA), which is able to rapidly penetrate the skin. Once the spheres come in contact with the skin’s natural water sources (TEWL), the HA takes up this water and the spheres swell, creating volume and filling in the “gaps” or wrinkles. Another benefit of the HA spheres is once they take up the surrounding water from TEWL, the result is long-term hydration in the epidermis, providing yet another reason to covet the benefits of hyaluronic acid, our body’s own natural hydrator. It is suggested Hyaluronic Filling Spheres™ are incorporated in lip enhancing products and eye creams for its “plumping” effect, and it may even provide that temporary “fill” that certain injectibles could satisfy in the eye or lip area. Some may see this as a nice adjunct or even an alternative to certain injectibles, as applying a product containing the HA spheres is temporary (lasts six hours in the skin), it won’t make you bruise, and best of all, it’s pain-free.

Botanistat PF-64
The awareness of environmentally-friendly products and packaging, has led to an industry movement towards parabens being eliminated as a preservation system in skin care formulations. In response to this movement is a globally-approved paraben-free and broad spectrum antimicrobial preservative system named Botanistat PF-64. Utilizing this system provides environmentally aware benefits while providing safe and stable, non-sensitizing products. As an added benefit, Botanistat PF-64 also provides skin conditioning properties, which is an attractive addition to the already non-irritating nature of this preservative system. Purchasing products containing paraben-free preservatives is a conscious decision that the discerning consumer is looking for in current skin care formulations and manufacturers need to comply with this new demand.

Skin care products with the above mentioned ingredients provides formulators with innovative and effective anti-aging, slimming, cell protecting, skin-plumping, and paraben-alternatives which deliver compelling results. Just think about how far we have come since glycolic acid was the pioneering ingredient in the skin care market. We have come a long way! New and exciting ingredients will continue being discovered and these new technologies will continue to change the “face” of the skin care industry.

Sam Dhatt is a world-renowned, award-winning cosmeceutical chemist, who serves as the CEO and president of DermaQuest Skin Therapy. During his 20-plus year career as a sought-after formulator, Dhatt has formulated and manufactured skin care products for over 700 companies, including many of the best-known brands in the industry. Dhatt leads a team of beauty experts who share his philosophies and goals of developing and delivering the safest, most advanced products possible to clinical professionals. Dhatt is a frequent expert-author of articles featured in many trade journals and skin care publications.
Allyson Rogers is a licensed aesthetician with a true passion for the skin care industry, which is evident when you see her teach a class or demo the latest peel. With a degree and background in business before obtaining her license in aesthetics, Roger’s previous experience helped developed her approach to skin care which is both practical and scientific. It is her continuous mission to bring the latest developments in skin care to the DermaQuest Skin Therapy line.

 



Read More
By | January 21, 2019

By Sherina Jamal

As a spa professional, you want to provide the best possible treatment for your clients. Providing the best treatment is reliant on 50 percent technique and 50 percent product. In aesthetic or massage therapy school, often the emphasis is put more on learning the right technique and less about teaching the basics of natural ingredients and how to select quality products for your business. In turn, once you complete your studies you are left to learn about products from independent research and through suppliers. Unfortunately, the information skin care companies provide to you can in some cases be based on false claims the company is making to sell their product.

This article has been written from my knowledge as a product developer to outline specific“ myths and truths” about skin care products, which will help to increase awareness so you can weed out product lines that are marketed using false claims from those that are presented with integrity and truth.

Myth #1:

“No Preservatives used in our products”

I’m still surprised when I walk a trade show floor to see the number of spa professionals gathering around certain booths in large numbers, where that company is making claims such as “our products do not contain preservatives” or “100 percent natural”.

The product will have a shelf-life and will contain natural ingredients but supposedly will not require a preservative? With the increased level of education provided to spa professionals through these shows and other educational spa events, I still see many in our industry buying into false claims and taking the word of the skin care company without doing any independent research before buying.

Truths:

1. Regarding preservatives, scientifically the majority of products with a shelf-life of a few days or longer that is a gel, lotion, or cream base containing water in the formula can grow bacteria, molds, and yeast within a short period of time. In some cases a formula like a massage oil, powder of bath salt that contains no water can have a shelf-life without preservatives or with the use of just preservation using vitamin E for example.

Therefore, if a product is made with water in the formula and at the same time claiming to not need a preservation system one should take a deeper look into the product and ensure they are asking the right questions before making a decision to buy that line.

2. Unfortunately, a natural preservative such as; Grapeseed extract or other commonly used antioxidants is often not enough to provide a shelf-life and control growth of bacteria in most cosmetic formulations especially those that include water in the base. What these can do is help to reduce growth of bacteria in some products to a certain extent and possibly help to extend shelf-life slightly if used along with a cosmetic preservative.

3. The reason why cosmetic preservatives have received a bad wrap, is mainly because some companies use too much in order to have a long shelf-life or use a harsher preservative, which in turn can cause skin irritation.

4. In most cases (depending on formula), a cosmetic preservative used in 1 percent or less is enough to provide a shelf-life of at least one year and provide a wide spectrum of coverage for bacterial, mold, and yeast growth in products. The spectrum of coverage is based on what type of preservative is used.

False Claims about Preservative Use:

So why do some companies make false claims that their products have no preservatives and how legally can they make these claims?

Companies that manufacture oversees or outside of the U.S. can be subject to different labeling regulations and therefore this provides in some cases a “legal loophole” to disguise the use of preservatives. This isn’t to say there are many companies that use this legal loophole, but some could use them to make false claims about their products in order to create a competitive edge.

One way a company can disguise the use of a preservative and make a false claim is by using the preservatives trade name as opposed to it’s scientific (INCI) name. Since it’s mostly manufacturers that are familiar with trade names for cosmetic ingredients, a spa professional or someone in the general public reading the label of this product could not pick out that the trade name is actually a preservative. For example; a popular preservative used in cosmetic formulas is Germaben II. This is the trade name for the preservative complex that consists of a few different preservatives. Germaben II is actually a combination of the following preservatives; Propylene Glycol, Diazolidinyl Urea, Methylparaben, Propylparaben. These are the INCI names of the preservatives and this is what would actually be listed on the label based on labeling regulations.

In the U.S., label regulations require that most retail products list every ingredient used in their products on the packaging. For companies that manufacture outside of the U.S. their labeling regulations may be different enabling them to list the trade name only or not list the preservative at all on the labels!

Tip:

If a company makes claims about not needing preservatives yet their products have a shelf-life and are composed of water or water based ingredients, do some additional research to ensure their claims are validated before spending your money!

As I mentioned, there is nothing wrong with using preservatives in fact it is often necessary and mandatory. What is most important is that the right percentage is used to avoid any negative effects to the skin, and that the company is upfront and honest about what their products contain.

Myth #2:

“Organic Ingredient based products are a better choice

While generally organic ingredients such as; fruits, vegetables, meat, dairy, etc. can be better choices when consuming them, one needs to ensure that just as with any other cosmetic product that the right preservation system is used.

Tip:

When selecting a product line that contains a high amount of organics, determine how those ingredients are extracted and preserved.

Myth #3

“All Seaweed and Mud/Clay based products are beneficial for cellulite and detoxification”

Truths.

The reality is that while in general seaweeds, mud's, clays are beneficial to the skin, the extent to which they are beneficial are reliant on 1. the source and quality of the initial raw ingredient 2. how they are extracted.

For example; Many companies use methods that begin by drying or dehydrating seaweed which sometimes involve the use of high temperature and pressure during the process. In turn, the seaweed loses some or most of its nutritional value.

For mud and clay based products, most contain particles only small enough to penetrate the surface layers of the skin to remove impurities and exfoliate.

In order for mud or clay based products to be truly detoxifying they should contain particles that are small enough to penetrate into the inner layers of the skin and tissues and effectively draw out toxins and excess fluid while reducing inflammation.

Tip:

If you are looking for a marine based product, find out how they process their seaweed used in the formulas and if it is picked at the source (direct from the Ocean beds). If the seaweed is dried or dehydrated realize that you may be selecting a product line where the seaweed used will not provide the same benefits as 100 percent pure seaweed would offer.

It would be helpful to also ask the supplier if the particles of the clay or mud used in the products is small enough to penetrate into the inner layers of the skin. Conduct some independent research to determine additional information on this subject so you can make the right choice.

Myth#5

“All vitamins and antioxidants used in skin care products provide benefits to the skin.”

Truths:

  1. Some companies use synthetic forms vs. natural forms of vitamins to cut costs. In turn you are not getting the true benefit of that vitamin. For example; Pure vitamin E is called d alpha Tocopherol however on some labels you may see d l Alpha Tocopheryl which is a synthetic form of vitamin E.

Tips for finding the best vitamin and antioxidant based products:

1. If you are looking for a product containing vitamin C the best choice is to select a product created with Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate. This is documented to be the most stable form of vitamin C in a cosmetic formula and it offers a wider range of anti-aging benefits to the skin.

2. The benefits antioxidants and extracts such as; grapeseed, green tea, etc. provide to the skin are based on 1. The percentage used in the product. 2. The quality of the raw ingredient. 3. The extraction process.

3. Some companies use solvents during extraction that can irritate the skin such as; alcohol and propylene glycol. Also, some skin care products may contain only a miniscule amount of an extract that in that low percentage may not offer any benefits to the skin.

Tip: Don’t Believe the Hype!

1. A quality product isn’t determined by the “buzz” created from heavy advertising, or expensive creative marketing materials. Some of these companies may truly have good quality products, however base your decision not on the amount of dollars they spend on marketing and promotions but on the quality and results the products provide. In other words Don’t believe the Hype… find out for yourself!

2. Walking a trade show floor at a spa show, you often see large posters at booths of before and after pictures depicting “25 percent reduction in wrinkles” for example. In order to determine if these stats are accurate, find out how many people were involved in the test, what specific products were used and for how long. Often the after picture may look much better as the client is photographed in a better light, with make-up and hair done to help show a more dramatic difference.

The message in this article is to increase awareness on the importance of conducting proper research when selecting a product line for your spa business. If you are aware of common false claims used by companies, myths, and truths you are more likely to make the best choices that in turn will benefit your clients and enhance your spas bottom line. Remember that a key to selecting the right product line is to ensure they are created in a proper licensed facility and that creation of stabilized products is the company’s priority.

Sherina Jamal is the founder and creator of Ancient Secrets Inc. She began the company in 1995 determined to provide people with natural alternatives to many of the chemically

based products on the market. Sherina began her company educating people on the many benefits of natural ingredients for skin care Vs the use of products created with harsh cosmetic chemicals. She has been a speaker and educator in the health and skin care industry for almost 10years, providing her knowledge via health/wellness trade shows, magazines, television shows, and courses offered at local colleges. She has written articles for top spa and health magazines.

She along with her experience product development team, have combined the healing power of age-old ingredients with modern technology to bring forth unique spa products that bring results. Ancient Secrets is launching their New Age Effective Body Spa line in early 2004. All products are made in Canada. Contact info: toll free: 1-888-796-0589. Email: ancientsecrets@hotmail.com. website: www.ancientsecrets.ca



Read More
By | January 21, 2019

As a spa professional, you want to provide the best possible treatment for your clients. Providing the best treatment is reliant on 50 percent technique and 50 percent product. In aesthetic or massage therapy school, often the emphasis is put more on learning the right technique and less about teaching the basics of natural ingredients and how to select quality products for your business. In turn, once you complete your studies you are left to learn about products from independent research and through suppliers. Unfortunately, the information skin care companies provide to you can in some cases be based on false claims the company is making to sell their product.


This article has been written from my knowledge as a product developer to outline specific“ myths and truths” about skin care products, which will help to increase awareness so you can weed out product lines that are marketed using false claims from those that are presented with integrity and truth.

Myth #1:“No Preservatives used in our products”
I’m still surprised when I walk a trade show floor to see the number of spa professionals gathering around certain booths in large numbers, where that company is making claims such as “our products do not contain preservatives” or “100 percent natural”.
The product will have a shelf-life and will contain natural ingredients but supposedly will not require a preservative? With the increased level of education provided to spa professionals through these shows and other educational spa events, I still see many in our industry buying into false claims and taking the word of the skin care company without doing any independent research before buying.

Truths:
1. Regarding preservatives, scientifically the majority of products with a shelf-life of a few days or longer that is a gel, lotion, or cream base containing water in the formula can grow bacteria, molds, and yeast within a short period of time. In some cases a formula like a massage oil, powder of bath salt that contains no water can have a shelf-life without preservatives or with the use of just preservation using vitamin E for example.
Therefore, if a product is made with water in the formula and at the same time claiming to not need a preservation system one should take a deeper look into the product and ensure they are asking the right questions before making a decision to buy that line.
2. Unfortunately, a natural preservative such as; Grapeseed extract or other commonly used antioxidants is often not enough to provide a shelf-life and control growth of bacteria in most cosmetic formulations especially those that include water in the base. What these can do is help to reduce growth of bacteria in some products to a certain extent and possibly help to extend shelf-life slightly if used along with a cosmetic preservative.
3. The reason why cosmetic preservatives have received a bad wrap, is mainly because some companies use too much in order to have a long shelf-life or use a harsher preservative, which in turn can cause skin irritation.
4. In most cases (depending on formula), a cosmetic preservative used in 1 percent or less is enough to provide a shelf-life of at least one year and provide a wide spectrum of coverage for bacterial, mold, and yeast growth in products. The spectrum of coverage is based on what type of preservative is used.

False Claims about Preservative Use:
So why do some companies make false claims that their products have no preservatives and how legally can they make these claims?
Companies that manufacture oversees or outside of the U.S. can be subject to different labeling regulations and therefore this provides in some cases a “legal loophole” to disguise the use of preservatives. This isn’t to say there are many companies that use this legal loophole, but some could use them to make false claims about their products in order to create a competitive edge.
One way a company can disguise the use of a preservative and make a false claim is by using the preservatives trade name as opposed to it’s scientific (INCI) name. Since it’s mostly manufacturers that are familiar with trade names for cosmetic ingredients, a spa professional or someone in the general public reading the label of this product could not pick out that the trade name is actually a preservative. For example; a popular preservative used in cosmetic formulas is Germaben II. This is the trade name for the preservative complex that consists of a few different preservatives. Germaben II is actually a combination of the following preservatives; Propylene Glycol, Diazolidinyl Urea, Methylparaben, Propylparaben. These are the INCI names of the preservatives and this is what would actually be listed on the label based on labeling regulations.
In the U.S., label regulations require that most retail products list every ingredient used in their products on the packaging. For companies that manufacture outside of the U.S. their labeling regulations may be different enabling them to list the trade name only or not list the preservative at all on the labels!

Tip: If a company makes claims about not needing preservatives yet their products have a shelf-life and are composed of water or water based ingredients, do some additional research to ensure their claims are validated before spending your money!
As I mentioned, there is nothing wrong with using preservatives in fact it is often necessary and mandatory. What is most important is that the right percentage is used to avoid any negative effects to the skin, and that the company is upfront and honest about what their products contain.

Myth #2: “Organic Ingredient based products are a better choice
While generally organic ingredients such as; fruits, vegetables, meat, dairy, etc. can be better choices when consuming them, one needs to ensure that just as with any other cosmetic product that the right preservation system is used.

Tip: When selecting a product line that contains a high amount of organics, determine how those ingredients are extracted and preserved.

Myth #3“All Seaweed and Mud/Clay based products are beneficial for cellulite and detoxification”

Truths:
The reality is that while in general seaweeds, mud's, clays are beneficial to the skin, the extent to which they are beneficial are reliant on 1. the source and quality of the initial raw ingredient 2. how they are extracted.
For example; Many companies use methods that begin by drying or dehydrating seaweed which sometimes involve the use of high temperature and pressure during the process. In turn, the seaweed loses some or most of its nutritional value.
For mud and clay based products, most contain particles only small enough to penetrate the surface layers of the skin to remove impurities and exfoliate.
In order for mud or clay based products to be truly detoxifying they should contain particles that are small enough to penetrate into the inner layers of the skin and tissues and effectively draw out toxins and excess fluid while reducing inflammation.

Tip: If you are looking for a marine based product, find out how they process their seaweed used in the formulas and if it is picked at the source (direct from the Ocean beds). If the seaweed is dried or dehydrated realize that you may be selecting a product line where the seaweed used will not provide the same benefits as 100 percent pure seaweed would offer.
It would be helpful to also ask the supplier if the particles of the clay or mud used in the products is small enough to penetrate into the inner layers of the skin. Conduct some independent research to determine additional information on this subject so you can make the right choice.

Myth #5 “All vitamins and antioxidants used in skin care products provide benefits to the skin.”

Truths:
Some companies use synthetic forms vs. natural forms of vitamins to cut costs. In turn you are not getting the true benefit of that vitamin. For example; Pure vitamin E is called d alpha Tocopherol however on some labels you may see d l Alpha Tocopheryl which is a synthetic form of vitamin E.

Tips for finding the best vitamin and antioxidant based products:
1. If you are looking for a product containing vitamin C the best choice is to select a product created with Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate. This is documented to be the most stable form of vitamin C in a cosmetic formula and it offers a wider range of anti-aging benefits to the skin.
2. The benefits antioxidants and extracts such as; grapeseed, green tea, etc. provide to the skin are based on 1. The percentage used in the product. 2. The quality of the raw ingredient. 3. The extraction process.
3. Some companies use solvents during extraction that can irritate the skin such as; alcohol and propylene glycol. Also, some skin care products may contain only a miniscule amount of an extract that in that low percentage may not offer any benefits to the skin.

Tip: Don’t Believe the Hype!
1. A quality product isn’t determined by the “buzz” created from heavy advertising, or expensive creative marketing materials. Some of these companies may truly have good quality products, however base your decision not on the amount of dollars they spend on marketing and promotions but on the quality and results the products provide. In other words Don’t believe the Hype… find out for yourself!
2. Walking a trade show floor at a spa show, you often see large posters at booths of before and after pictures depicting “25 percent reduction in wrinkles” for example. In order to determine if these stats are accurate, find out how many people were involved in the test, what specific products were used and for how long. Often the after picture may look much better as the client is photographed in a better light, with make-up and hair done to help show a more dramatic difference.
The message in this article is to increase awareness on the importance of conducting proper research when selecting a product line for your spa business. If you are aware of common false claims used by companies, myths, and truths you are more likely to make the best choices that in turn will benefit your clients and enhance your spas bottom line. Remember that a key to selecting the right product line is to ensure they are created in a proper licensed facility and that creation of stabilized products is the company’s priority.

Sherina Jamal is the founder and creator of Ancient Secrets Inc. She began the company in 1995 determined to provide people with natural alternatives to many of the chemically based products on the market. Sherina began her company educating people on the many benefits of natural ingredients for skin care Vs the use of products created with harsh cosmetic chemicals. She has been a speaker and educator in the health and skin care industry for almost 10years, providing her knowledge via health/wellness trade shows, magazines, television shows, and courses offered at local colleges. She has written articles for top spa and health magazines. She along with her experience product development team, have combined the healing power of age-old ingredients with modern technology to bring forth unique spa products that bring results. Ancient Secrets is launching their New Age Effective Body Spa line in early 2004. All products are made in Canada. Contact info: toll free: 1-888-796-0589. Email: ancientsecrets@hotmail.com. website: www.ancientsecrets.ca



Read More
By | January 21, 2019
skin factThe color of skin depends primarily on a pigment called melanin. It is also influenced by the blood flow through the skin. Melanin is a pigment produced by special cells called melanocytes that manufacture packets of melanin called melanosomes and transfer them to the skin cells of the epidermis the keratinocytes. In white people the darkest area is the upper thigh and the lower back is the lightest. In black people the abdomen is the darkest.


Read More
By | January 21, 2019

Dandruff
Part 2: What Causes Dandruff?

The exact cause of dandruff, also known as scurf or Pityriasis simplex capillitii is unknown. However, most experts do agree that it is not caused by poor hygiene.

Causes may include, but are not limited to:
  • Not enough hair brushing: People who do not comb and/or brush their hair regularly have a slightly higher risk of having dandruff. This is because they are not aiding the shedding of skin that combing and/or brushing provides.
  • Yeast: People who are sensitive to yeast have a slightly higher risk of having dandruff, so it is logical to assume that yeast may play a part.
  • Dry skin: People with dry skin tend to get dandruff more often.
  • Seborrheic dermatitis (irritated, oily skin): People with seborrheic dermatitis are very prone to dandruff.
  • Not enough shampooing: Some people say that if you do not shampoo enough there can be a buildup of oil and dead skin cells, causing dandruff. However, many experts doubt this is true.
  • Certain skin conditions: People with psoriasis, eczema, and some other skin disorders tend to get dandruff much more frequently than other people.
  • Some illnesses: Adults with Parkinson's disease and some other neurological illnesses are more prone to having dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis. Patients recovering from heart attacks and strokes, and some people with weak immune systems may have dandruff more often than other people.
  • Reaction to hair or skin care products: Some people react to some hair care products with a red, itchy, scaling scalp.
  • Malassezia: Malassezia is a fungus that lives on everybody's scalp. Generally, it will cause no problems at all. However, it can grow out of control. It feeds on the oils our hair follicles secrete. When this happens the scalp can become irritated and produce extra skin cells. These extra skin cells die and fall off; they mix with the oil from hair and scalp, and turn into what we see as dandruff.
  • Diet: Some experts say that people who do not consume enough foods that contain zinc, B vitamins, and some types of fats are more prone to dandruff.
  • Mental stress: Experts believe there is a link between stress and many skin problems.
  • HIV: A study found that 10.6 percent of people with HIV have seborrheic dermatitis.

 



Read More
By | January 21, 2019

The Health Benefits of Cranberries and Cranberry Juice:

  • Avoid Urinary Tract Infection: Cranberry juice is very effective against urinary tract infections. 100 percent cranberry juice produces hippuric acid in the urine, which acidifies the urine and prevents bacteria from sticking to the walls of the bladder. Drinking one glass of cranberry juice daily reduces the risk of infections and prevents cystitis. Cranberry juice also contains the chemical compounds called proanthocyanidins, a powerful antioxidant that decreases the adherence of bacteria to the bladder cells.
  • Healthy Cardiovascular System: Cranberry juice contains powerful antioxidants that help to prevent or repair the damages caused by free radicals. Drinking cranberry juice helps in the increase of good cholesterol and the reduction of bad (LDL) cholesterol. These benefits can be attributed to the presence of polyphenols in cranberry juice.
  • Prevents Tooth Decay: Strengthens Bones and Teeth: According to new researches, cranberry juice prevents cavities. The chemical contained in the juice, blocks the bacteria from sticking to the teeth. Thus, it prevents the formation of dental plaques. Although cranberry juice is also a source of calcium, many juice companies add extra calcium in the juice. Natural or otherwise, it reduces the risk of getting osteoporosis.
  • Prevents Cancer: Cranberry contains proanthocyanidins. These compounds inhibit the growth of various cancer cells. According to studies, proanthocyanidins can stop micro-tumors from developing in the blood vessels necessary for their continued growth. Regular consumption of cranberry juice prevents the rapid growth of tumors. Chemicals in cranberries also prevent multiplication of breast cancer cells.
  • Cures Cold: Fresh cranberry juice is effective at fighting against infections. It cures sore throats and colds. According to conducted studies, cranberry juice helps to inhibit certain strains of the Haemophilus influenza, which is a common cause of ear and respiratory infections in children. The juice inhibits the bacteria's hair-like structures, therefore not allowing them to be able to adhere to skin surfaces.
  • Good for Obese People: Cranberry juice is rich in organic acids. These have an emulsifying effect on the fat deposits in our body. So it is good for people who want to shed those extra pounds.
  • Prevents Formation of Kidney Stones: The high amount of acid components in cranberry juice prevents kidney stone formation.
  • Prevents Stomach Ulcers: H. pylori bacteria can cause stomach ulcers. Regular cranberry juice consumption, for months, destroys these bacteria and saves you from such stomach related troubles.


Read More

DERMASCOPE Digital Login