Tuesday, 27 November 2018 08:04

Botanical Solutions for Antipollution Skin Care

Written by   Jimm Harrison, essential oil and botanical skin care consultant

The environment has a tremendous effect on the body. There is an army of floating compounds, along with electromagnetic frequencies, and ultraviolet radiation, that cause damage and premature aging to the skin. Environmental pollutants are a health and skin hazard and a primary cause of free radical or reactive oxygen species damage (ROS). ROS causes accelerated aging, cellular disruption, and physiological imbalance. Staring at a mobile device or computer, which emits destructive blue light, is another form of environmental damage to the skin. The preventive solution to any potential ROS skin damage is the intelligent use of antioxidants. 

ANTIOXIDANTS AND SKIN HEALTH
Antioxidants from botanicals are an effective form of protection from free radical damage. A healthy, whole food diet, rich in colorful fruits and vegetables, and a supplemental use of the nutrients contained in these fruits and vegetables, is the first and best defense. There has been an increase of information emphasizing the importance of a healthy high antioxidant diet for skin health. Plant based nutrients and extracts are a driving force behind the natural and organic topical skin care revolution.

ANTIPOLLUTION AND PROTECTIVE FOOD COMPOUNDS
Dietary factors are key to protection from blue light and antipollution skin care regimens. If a poor diet is part of the problem, then the most beneficial protective ingredients can be used topically and still produce few results until diet has been improved.
There is ample evidence that food compounds such as beta-carotene, lutein, lycopene, and astaxanthin in the diet help to prevent oxidative (free radical) damage. These compounds are well documented for preventing erythema (including sunburn) and other damage caused by ultraviolet radiation. Much of what is known about protection from sun damage can be transferred to protection from environmental pollutants and blue light. The similarity is in the oxidative damage caused by both pollution and ultraviolet radiation.
Recommended foods to protect from pollution and blue light include: wild salmon; dark greens – like kale, chard, and mustard greens; orange, red, and yellow vegetables – like tomatoes, yams, carrots, and peppers; deeply colored fruits and berries – like blackberry, blueberry, goji berry, and acai; and green tea (camellia sinensis) and rooibos tea (aspalathus linearis).
A diet can be expanded to include foods that contain anthocyanins, carotenoids, flavonoids, and a vast amount of other nutrients that protect skin health. Examples of individual ingested antioxidant nutrients that have been studied for their protective properties are astaxanthin, lutein, zeathanxin, beta-carotene, lycopene, and epigallocatechin gallate.

BENEFICIAL INGREDIENTS FOR THE FACE
The way to duplicate the benefits of ingested dietary nutrients for skin care is to use ingredients extracted from the foods containing the powerful concentrated compounds. Astaxanthin, which is found in salmon, is available as a supercritical carbon dioxide extract, which can be used topically. The CO2 extraction is a clean extraction method used to produce many valued plant extracts for antioxidant protection, such as sea buckthorn berry, calendula, turmeric, and pomegranate.
The beneficial omega-3 fatty acid content of salmon is replaced in topical ingredients rich in omega-3 fatty acids like raspberry, cranberry, or blackberry pressed seed oils. The berry seed oils also contain carotenoids, polyphenols, and vitamin E that further add protection to the skin.

INGREDIENTS USED IN ANTIPOLLUTION SKIN CARE
A topical formula for protection from pollution would include the already mentioned ingredients and extracts that incorporate compounds known as strong antioxidants and skin conditioners.
The variety of botanical extracts available for antipollution skin care is vast, with recipes to suit any application, texture, or need. When creating customized formulations, a variety of antipollution ingredients are widely available and can be found offered at very reasonable cost.

Here are ingredient suggestions that can be used in antipollution and protective skin care. For each ingredient listed, there are several similar or equally effective alternatives.

  • Sunflower seed oil: a fairly light and absorptive oil containing high antioxidant value.
  • Virgin olive oil and argan oil: known for being helpful in antioxidant and restorative skin care.
  • Jojoba oil: composed of a similar waxy fat to the skin’s natural sebum and provides ultraviolet protection.
  • Berry seed oils: cranberry, raspberry, and blackberry seed oils are a must-have in protective skin care. The berry oils have antioxidant properties and show absorbance in the UV-B and UV-C ranges, with potential for use as a broad-spectrum ultraviolet protectant. Berry seed oils also provide a source of omega-3 fatty acids, tocopherols, and carotenoids.
  • Prickly pear oil: a relative newcomer to skin care, offering protection from many environmental hazards.
  • Green tea: well known for its effective antioxidant properties. Green tea tinctures are an excellent addition to any antiaging and skin protective formula. It also protects ultraviolet-exposed skin and prevents DNA damage.
  • Supercritical extracts of pomegranate, coffee berry, Australian sandalwood seed, and sea buckthorn: contain a concentration of flavonoids, carotenoids, and other beneficial compounds, that offer intensified protection and reduce damage from pollutants, ultraviolet exposure, and inflammation. These are used in a low concentration, similar to essential oils and nutrients.
  • Essential Oils: helichrysum, kunzea, elemi, sandalwood, copaiba, German chamomile, black pepper, and others contain higher amounts of sesquiterpene and phenolic (though potentially irritating) compounds.

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