Likewise the treatments you provide for the client should vary depending on what is required, such as reduction of crow's feet, addressing puffy eyes and dark circles, skin sensitivity, and age.
If we examine the physiology of the skin around the orbital area of the eye compared to the skin on our face, neck, chest and décolleté, we note that it is more fragile, more susceptible to dryness and wrinkles, can irritate easily, and has fewer sebaceous or sweat glands. The physiology of the area under the eye has three epidermal layers: epidermis, dermis and subcutaneous layer. Above the eye (lid and brow bone area), there are two layers; the epidermis and dermis. The particularly sensitive eye area requires moisturizing with emollients and hydrating with humectants.
Of a particular note, as we age our eye area shows the signs more readily with crow's feet, sagging or drooping under the eye (bags), collagen degradation, a reduction in elasticity, dark circles, and puffiness. General moisturizers can be used, however it is not recommended for particular conditions and specific treatments depending on the concerns and relevant active ingredients. Moreover, most professionals, doctors and aestheticians would recommend a specific eye care as early as the mid-20s for preventative measure.
There are a variety of products and specific cares on the market, as well as intervention both surgical and nonsurgical. Alternatives include products with Argirelene, SNAP-8 (5%) to combat crow's feet, peptides to support proteins, vitamins A and E, and the use of sunscreens. Some may contain toxins, others are natural, and some are a combination of various active and non-active ingredients. The key to more youthful skin and to rectify specific hydration needs, reduce puffy eyes, dark circles, and other eye area concerns is to seek products for professional use and retail sales that are proven effective (for instance, deliver results, are poison free, and do not kill animals).
The sensitivity of the eye, the possibility of milia, and the unusual dry wrinkles that tend to appear as we age can be addressed and rectified with active ingredients in eye products that contain vitamins A, C, E and K. In addition, eye products packed with powerful peptides such as Argireline, SNAP-8, Matrixyl 3000 (Palmitoyl Pnetapeptide-3), Haloxyl, Regu-Age, SYN-COLL, Kollaren, as well as intense antioxidants.
There are several eye products available in gel, serum and cream format. By definition, a gel is mostly liquid and is an alternative. They are thicker than and as concentrated as a serum so it does not require all the ingredients that a cream has to function properly. They are just as effective as a serum and lighter in feel, allowing them to stay in place, whereas creams tend to travel and get into the eye. Most serums have a high concentration of water, depending on the manufacturer, while others boast high concentrations of active ingredients or they do not contain any water or fillers.A serum is more intensive and typically used between cleansing and prior to a moisturizer developed to combat dryness. Gels generally add moisture, which is essential for the eye area.
Whether it be a gel, serum or cream,the terms are mostly used for marketing purposes, but with new technology they can act differently. A gel can be as hydrating as a cream and a serum can also be moisturizing, however not like a cream – depending on the formulation. Gels are also serums but formulated with a thicker consistency to lock in moisture, allowing them to hydrate the skin more than that of a serum. In addition, gels can have conditioners in them; however, just like a moisturizer, gels lack oils, multiple emollients, and no ion stabilizers. Gels and serums can be more pure than a cream, but also a cream can be more moisturizing than a gel due to the multiple conditioners that must be used in a cream to make it function properly. Generally, the term moisturizer tends to imply further hydration, while the terms serum and gel tends to imply more intense, active ingredients. Therefore, it is dependent on formulation, age, and what you want to achieve. Some people, depending on age, require both a serum and a moisturizing cream. These formats tend to be used interchangeably and it is best to use products that have specific active ingredients that combat eye area concerns, such as wrinkles, lines, puffiness and dark circles.
Ingredient profile and efficacy are the most essential parameters to consider when discussing eye products. In general care, the ingredients to avoid are toxins, suspected and known carcinogens, parabens, sulphites, fillers, high concentration of retinol that could irritate sensitive skin, fragrance, and other harmful ingredients, especially when applying constantly once or twice daily. Please note that petroleum by-products, including mineral oil, should never be used around eyes – so check the ingredient list carefully.
There is an incredible amount of eye treatment alternatives on the market, from cosmeceuticals to cosmetic type brands, whether organic, natural, peptide-based, vegan, plant and fruit derivatives, as well as injections, and cosmetic device treatments. The key is to focus on the efficacy, safety, and ingredient profile to ensure that those specific cell nourishing and essential vitamin components are within the product monograph, in addition to the appropriate concentration and clinical data being available for all skin types.
So, in brief, the use of a specific product is recommended for the eye area. Furthermore, it is imperative to educate your customer on the reasons why these products will ultimately benefit them – prevention and management.
Christine Pemberton has over 23 years of experience in entrepreneurial ventures, as well as traditional corporate responsibilities within the health and wellness industry. She is currently International sales director for Skin 2 Skin™ Care and founder of Maia International Inc., a consulting company that assists companies/spas and medical spas in business development, sales, marketing, branding, market presence, public relations, Go-to-Market strategies, tactical planning, regulatory and brand positioning. Maia International also governs over distribution and agency roles to assist in global distribution, multi-channel messaging and presence.