Monday, 26 January 2015 02:06

Love Your Clients’ Bodies As You Do Their Faces

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Throughout time, women have created homemade body creams to smooth, soften, and keep their bodies youthful. Commercialized body creams have only been in the marketplace for the past century. The plethora of options available can often be confusing to clients. As aestheticians, it is important that we educate ourselves in the treatment of body skin care as well. This highly-lucrative market is often overlooked by aestheticians. However, it is our responsibility to help our clients create body skin care routines to exfoliate, slim, fight age, and protect against environmental stressors.

Why Body Products Matter
The body product market is extensive. In the medical realm alone, there is currently a surge of body treatments to address common issues such as cellulite, stretch marks, neck skin tightening, firming buttocks, and re-texturizing body skin. Many aestheticians work with doctors either by referral or in their medical offices who do not offer body products to compliment the high-end technologies they are offering. Aestheticians must take advantage of this amazing market to enhance the work of physicians by creating body product regimens that are complimentary to the medical market. Extensive body care still has not hit the American consciousness the way it has in the European and Asian marketplaces. Facial skin care is so highly competitive, offered everywhere from neighborhood nail salons to elaborate medical spas, while body care is lacking in the aesthetic marketplace. The majority of the tools that we use for facial treatments are transferable to body treatments, so I recommend that aestheticians create brief, affordable body services with an extensive retail component to expand their niche.

Steps to a Total Body Care Routine
Aestheticians need to differentiate themselves from the chain stores that carry highly-fragranced body products. Aestheticians should focus on creating regimens that maintain the integrity of more serious skin care with real results. An effective body care routine must include a skin cleanser, exfoliator, a solution for problem areas, a skin softener, and a sunscreen. Cleansing should be gentle, non-irritating, and effective. A cleanser that is hydrating, non-irritating, and does not age the skin should be used. Use mild soaps that have a hydrating component such as natural oils, which protect the skin from environmental damage and aging. Antibacterial and alcohol-based soaps can damage skin if used repeatedly. Always advise clients to use mildly cold or warm water temperatures as opposed to hot water that can create irritation, rashes, or even eczema.
Clients should use botanical-based cleansers that include an exfoliant so that subsequent products can penetrate the skin. I recommend a one to three percent concentration of alpha hydroxy acid and beta hydroxy acid in cleansers, which is appropriate for both dry and oily skin. Exfoliate the body at least once every five days with an alpha hydroxy acid-based product. The amount can be modified based on environmental factors. Ideally, the skin should be scrubbed lightly every other day with a physical exfoliant like a loofah. Removing dead cells on a regular basis helps encourage new skin growth, as well as subsequent products to penetrate the dermis. Next, use an active product to stimulate circulation, slim, and reduce cellulite and toxins in areas such as thighs, buttocks, underarms, chest, and stomach. Finally, use a body lotion or cream to nourish and protect the skin. If there is no sun protection factor in the body lotion, then apply a minimum of SPF 15 during the day on exposed areas.

Ingredient No-Nos
Advise clients to choose products that do not disrupt the body’s natural mechanisms. Hormone interrupters, preservatives, phthalates, parabens, mineral oil, propylene glycol, talc, petroleum, and cancer causing agents are harmful and should be avoided. Examples include diethanolamine (DEAs), monoethanolamine (MEAs), and triethanolamine (TEAs). Watch out for these ingredients, particularly in body lotions and hand creams. Stay away from scrubs made from manmade chemicals as opposed to natural ingredients. Clients should not use talc-based or chemical-based deodorants.

Ingredient Watch List
For exfoliating, look for beta hydroxy acids, alpha hydroxy acids, salt scrubs, jojoba scrubs, and natural loofahs. Natural exfoliants like sugar, lemon, wine, grape seed, coconut particles, and oats are best. For slimming, seaweeds, natural minerals, green tea, coffee (caffeine), cocoa, and menthol should be used. For body lotions, shea butter, mineral derivatives like magnesium, potassium, and copper from the dead sea work well. Other effective ingredients include olive oil, organic coconut oil, sunflower seed oil, honey, caviar, and gold. For skin correctives, I recommend vitamin C, antioxidant, retinols, peptides, hyaluronic acid, and resveratrol. Add advanced technologies to in-house treatments, such as radiofrequency for skin tightening and body contouring. For sun protection, a minimum of SPF 15 should be applied. For deodorants, salt or seaweed-based products are recommended.

Body Exfoliation to Assist Hair Removal
At least 50 percent of revenue for aestheticians comes from body waxing services. Teach clients how to properly care for waxed areas by creating pre- and post-waxing homecare routines. One week before waxing, clients should prepare their skin by using hydrating products and should avoid stimulating and exfoliating ones. Post waxing, clients should use an occlusive balm to soothe and reduce irritation of the skin. Choose products for your clients to use that offer ingredients like moringa oil, aloe, honeysuckle, beeswax, myrrh, and camellia sinensis leaf extract. Once the skin has healed, clients should return to their exfoliation routines so hairs cannot grow inside the pores in different directions, causing ingrown hairs.

Once-a-Week Ritual
On a weekly basis, encourage clients to perform a home ritual where they soak in a warm bath with minerals such as dead sea salts and essential oils for circulation and relaxation. They can include one cup of milk or powdered milk to lighten and improve skin tone and should soak for a minimum of 10 to 15 minutes. Then, they should use a loofah and exfoliate their entire body. When they come out of the bath, they should dry their skin, but leave it slightly humid. Next, they should apply a body mask made by simply applying a very thick layer of shea-based body cream and then wrapping the body with cellophane. This should be left on for a minimum of 20 minutes. The cellophane can then be removed and they can massage in residual cream and take ice cubes to massage over the body.

How to Use Body Products
For scrubbing, clients begin by rinsing their body. Once wet, a tablespoonful of the scrub can be applied with a loofah mitt. Scrubbing should be in a circular motion towards the lymph. For the back, a back exfoliating band can be used. Alternatively, they can dry buff by using a body brush on dry skin. For added exfoliation, clients should dry buff first, then wet scrub.
After showering and exfoliating, clients should dry their body about 90 percent and on slightly humid skin, apply slimming products to targeted areas. Massage in a circular motion toward the heart. Slimming, energizing, and detoxifying products should be massaged thoroughly until they are completely absorbed into the skin. If possible, clients should apply slimming and energizing products right before or after exercise for enhanced circulation and to lessen water retention. For detoxifying products, it should be applied prior to resting.
The active slimmers, stimulators, and detoxifiers should penetrate for at least 20 minutes before body lotions and creams are applied. Body lotion should be put on in sections, beginning with the upper body and going downward in circular motions toward the heart.
For body sunscreen, it needs to be applied either as an individual product or as part of a body lotion 30 minutes prior to sun exposure. If a client is going into the sun, exfoliants and slimmers should not be used 24 to 48 hours prior to sun exposure. Advise clients to use double the sunscreen on their hands and décolleté and to never go into the sun within a couple of days after hair removal, waxing, laser, or electrolysis of
the body.

Create Lasting Routines
Clients must be taught that taking care of their body skin is just as serious as taking care of their face. Every product that is used on the face should also be applied to the neck, décolleté, and hands on a daily basis. In order to keep the body from aging, clients need to have regular maintenance routines that include non-aging cleansing, exfoliating, slimming, softening, and protecting from the sun. Clients will see lasting results and be thankful while skin care professionals will see an increase in profit for their business.

Bella-Schneider 2014

Bella Schneider, P.M.E., leads a team of more than 200 aesthetic professionals at three premier spas. For more than 35 years, Schneider has traveled the world to bring service providers the best in aesthetic science; as a groundbreaking formulator, successful retailer, and respected educator, her mission is to help professionals enhance their practice and grow their business. Winner of the Nouvelles Esthetiques lifetime achievement Crystal Award for contributions to beauty science, Schneider hosts beginning to advance training in clinical and spa skin care as well as ethnic skin care, peels, and other new techniques at Bella Schneider Beauty’s Palo Alto, Calif.-based training center.

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