THE EYES HAVE IT
Dramatic Cat Eyes
Do not put away that black liquid liner because perennially chic cat eyes are still holding on as a top makeup trend. Rest assured that your clients will not be bored. Here a few of the newer options for creating a slightly different take on the classical, always in style look.
We are all familiar with the basic cat eye: a thick, defined line flipping upwards at the corner. That is still working, but there are many variations this year. Here are some tips to get you off to a great start.
- Apply a skin primer to entire the face, including the eyelids. Apply using a fresh, wet sponge to dapple on the client’s skin for an even flawless base to build upon.
- Switch to a foundation brush and apply a BB cream with SPF to the client’s skin. Blend.
- Conceal any dark spots with a concealer. Blend.
- Highlight the cheekbones and outer forehead with a subtle (no glitter) illuminator or highlighter.
- Now that you have a flawless, neutral face, choose your trend and experiment away!
Precise Winged Thin Line
One is fine, but two is even finer! Throw an extra line over the first one, leaving a space in between for a fun look. Play around with the thickness to achieve different looks. An easy way to keep it clean is to use a thin cotton swab dipped in makeup remover. This is the key to getting a clean line.
Reverse Cat Eye
A precise hand is required to craft this look and practice is mandatory.
- Starting at the outer corner of your client’s eye, apply a thick line above the upper eyelashes and then swing it down at the tear duct, following the natural shape of the eye.
- Taper it out well before the iris.
- Generously coat the client’s eyelashes with a volumizing, preferably waterproof, mascara.
- Choose a gel formula with a brush for a more modern, precise look or a natural, wax-based liner topped with a richly-pigmented, flat black powder if you want a more matte look.
- Finish the eye with a light silver shadow to eyebrow bone.
The white eye makeup trend has been spotted all over the place. Fashion week touted many variations on the bright-eyed look. With the choices of white eye shadows ranging from stark matte white to shimmery iridescent powered eye dust, the array of looks you can achieve by utilizing different techniques is endless. For a slick, high fashion variation, apply an eyelid primer to the eyelid, apply the eyelid color, then sweep a wash of petroleum jelly over the eyelid color; this will create a luminescent halo effect. The slightest hint of pink, green, blue or purple mixed with a cream white can be stunning and create a dewy freshness for the client’s eyelids.
- Using a chunky white eyeliner, line the upper eyelid and then trace over the top line again.
- Layering line with white shadow, rimming the inner corners of eyes creates a cool cat eye across the eyelid.
- Also apply highlighter to the area just under the brow bone.
Lacey and Light
A more advanced take on the bold white look is a merging of this season’s hottest trends combining glitter and graphic white liner, modern and intricate
- Apply a thick (think triple of the average cat eye) winged link of stark white gel liner with a fine tip synthetic brush.
- Quickly apply a coat of glitter or metallic richly pigmented white eye shadow as it will adhere to the liner while it is still tacky.
- No mascara or clear mascara finish off this look.
Blue Eye Shadow
Create a stunning statement eyelid in rich, solid blue from eyelash line to crease. Choose a bold hue and go for it. Pat color onto your client’s eyelids, creating a crescent shape just above crease. Finish with bold blue mascara for a big pop of color or coat lashes twice with a volumizing black mascara. Go up, up and away with hues of blue… using three to four blue shades, apply light, wispy layers to create a disco-like look.
As seen at Fashion week, gilded eyelids offer elegant old world glamour. Add kohl and black coffee into creases and line the top lashes, then give the eyelids a wash of brown eye shadow and top with actual loose gold glitter for a stunning metallic effect. An easier to achieve approach is to swap a metallic pigment in place of actual glitter (which could be irritating to eyes for extended wear).
Just as it sounds, this is a bold look that is reminiscent of stained glass.
- Using a tine black felt tip eyeliner, create a geometric design on your client’s eyelid, blocking off four to six separate sections.
- Fill in each block with brightly hued pigments of cream shadow.
- Cover eye art area with a one layer of tissue and ever so lightly dust over tissue with a light coat of translucent powder to set.
- Lightly lift tissue, apply white mascara and a coordinating lip color. It is a work of living, breathing art!
This compact foundation multipurpose product is
all the rage through Korea, and all of Asia as a matter of fact. According to some research, one compact is sold every 30 seconds in Asia. Think of it as CC cream on steroids! This truly unique, one-of-a-kind foundation is different not only in formula but in its application. It is applied through an innovative air cushion that has ingredients that blocks ultraviolet rays and covers imperfections naturally. The product formulas contain vitamins for the skin’s health (B, E, and P) and as much as 30 percent mineral water. More so, this revolutionary product helps your client’s skin maintain the ultimate moisture levels. And unlike BB or CC creams, these can be reapplied throughout the day, before and after makeup. While not readily available in the states yet, you can find them online and at some Korean
Get Your Glow On
One thing that is here to stay is the sun kissed look. Everyone wants it but we all can do without the premature aging the sun causes to our skin. Solutions abound in the vast array of illuminators, bronzers, highlighters, and luminizers available to help us achieve that glowing skin we are all pursing!
Say goodbye to Kardashian era contouring. Think more pleasantly blurry. Play up your client’s planes – the ones on the face, that is. Light brings focus to areas and makes the area pop, so placement is vital to achieve the overall look. An easy way to fake a glow is by mixing a tinted moisturizer that matches the skin tone (BB cream works well too) with a pea sized amount of a bronze liquid illuminator. Blur application by dappling with a wet sponge. The result is a much more casual look and more believable beauty.
SAY WHAT? LIP SERVICE
Soft Berry Lips
Give your client’s lips a believable berry shade by going no more than two shades darker than their natural lip color. This keeps the hue within a realistic and believable range. Opt for long wear formulas for a kissable pout all day! Great to pair if you are opting for the minimal makeup trend.
Bright Orange Lipstick
Nothing subtle here! Orange is still holding its own amongst 2014 makeup trends! There is no shortage of shades available so look for one that works with your client’s undertones for a good match. Professionals create a custom hue by blending two shades on the back of the hand, applying to the lip with a brush, and then blotting for a slightly matte finish.
Slash of Graphic Color
Short on time? Skip the complicated eye patterns and pop on the sunglasses! To still be on trend, try a pop of coral or fuchsia across lips and cheeks! Paired with a low key, otherwise neutral face. This look is still attention grabbing for sure.
The prerequisite to wearing any or all of these trendy looks is a good base, which means having great skin! Make sure your clients follow a proper and consistent cleansing routine, as well as hydrating their skin appropriately and wearing a SPF 30 or higher daily! Have fun and play with one look or combine a few for a unique look. Remember that balance is key to everything in life, including
Kimberly Czelusniak is a licensed aesthetician, entrepreneur, sales and social media development specialist. After spending 16 years as a B2B sales manager and skin care educator, Czelusniak’s focus is now on the beauty industry’s emerging field of social media promotion and high growth management. She is a published author, content creator and blogger for many leading skin care brands and aesthetic businesses. Czelusniak is also the Founder of Aesthetics Apart Consulting.