The Male Appeal, Part I: The State of Male Aesthetics 

According to the 2022 Medical Spa State of the Industry Report Executive Summary, there has been a significant increase in men seeking aesthetics procedures in recent years. While men are becoming more conscious of their appearance, the demand for preventive and rejuvenating treatments among male spa clients has been driven mainly by their desire to look refreshed, more youthful, and less tired. The popularity of social media, image-conscious society and culture, the Zoom boom, and the importance of personal branding have contributed to this trend as well and made it essential for men to invest in their outer appearance.

Men are becoming more comfortable with the idea of practicing self-care and perfecting personal grooming habits. They want to look and feel their best and are turning to skin care professionals for solutions to their skin concerns.

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Balancing the Biome: Antimicrobial Peptides 

Skin is home to a unique bacterial environment of microbes. It is imperative to understand this system since the body is continually challenged by toxins, viruses, and bacterial overgrowth. Considering the growing consumer and professional interest in peptides, this article will dive into the nature and processes of antimicrobial peptides.

PEPTIDE PARTY

Peptides are essential cell messengers with various functions that support healthy cell activity. Certain peptides can help with the restoration and repair of skin remodeling following injury or during inflammation.1 A peptide is composed of two or more amino acids, the building blocks of protein, that are linked naturally during metabolism. 

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Susan Wade joined Viktoria De’Ann in 2015 as the director of education and sales after working in the health and education industry for over 30 years. She holds a master’s degree in higher education, is a licensed aesthetician, and is currently completing her license in functional medicine. Wade taught kinesiology courses for 12 years at Boise State University, along with owning and operating a sports training business and working closely with physicians, physical therapists, faculty members, and athletes. Her passion lies in learning about the complexities of physiology, nutrition, and cellular functions coupled with peptide science, and she enjoys sharing her knowledge in a simple and applicable format.

Many of us have joyful and fun-loving memories of our childhood playing in the sand at the beach, swimming the days of summer away, scoring goals on a soccer team, or jumping off the swing set in the backyard on a sunny afternoon. More likely than not, these glorious days of outdoor play and activity resulted in a sunburn or two, or ten

While most sunburns heal in a few days and are viewed as no more than painful inconveniences, having five or more sunburns doubles your risk for melanoma, the most dangerous and deadly of skin cancers. This article will review the three types of skin cancer and how the early detection of skin abnormalities can save lives. 

THE RUNDOWN

Basal Cell Carcinoma

Basal cell carcinoma is the most common type of skin cancer and by definition, the least dangerous. This type of cancer develops in the basal cells of the epidermis and its main cause is exposure to ultraviolet rays from the sun or tanning beds. 

Squamous Cell Carcinoma

Squamous cell carcinoma grows in the flat cells of the surface of the epidermis. Its main cause also comes from ultraviolet radiation from the sun or tanning beds. 

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Kathleen Nordby has a bachelor’s in journalism from CSU Chico and wrote professionally for about five years. She spent 20 years raising three beautiful girls and teaching music and theatre at elementary, junior high, and high school levels. She became a California licensed aesthetician 15 years ago and worked in high end spas as well as owning her business. In 2017, she moved to Oregon and became certified in advanced aesthetics and oncology aesthetics. She worked in a medical spa, where she loved performing laser treatments and microneedling. In 2020, she began educating in a premiere aesthetics school in Oregon and has built a small cancer survivor clientele. She is passionate about skin and truly loves the honor and privilege of teaching the future of the industry.

In the world of aesthetics, the pursuit of beauty and wellness is an art form. Skin care professionals are the artists, sculpting and nurturing their canvas – clients’ skin. To create masterpieces, professionals must understand the science behind the products they use and make informed decisions about ingredients. Clients seek results, and professionals strive to provide them with the best solutions. 

Behind the scenes, the magic happens through cosmetic chemistry and product formulation. In order to understand products fully, it is essential to demystify ingredient lists, explore sustainable ingredient choices, and delve into product development.  

UNCONFUSING COSMETIC CHEMISTRY  

Cosmetic chemistry involves blending scientific knowledge with artistic creativity to develop formulations that enhance skin health and appearance. Professionals and spas can benefit greatly from understanding cosmetic chemistry as it allows them to select and recommend products with a deeper understanding of their ingredients and how they interact with skin. 

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Janet Schriever is a licensed aesthetician and the founder and formulator of Code of Harmony skin care. She is also the inventor of the Sculpt and Release Method, which combines manual facial sculpting with CBD skin care. Schriever began creating plant-powered skin care in 2012 because of her personal battle with rosacea. Having a complicated skin condition has also guided her aesthetics practice and is the underlying reason why she began creating clean products with CBD. Her products address sensitive skin naturally, and her aesthetics practice takes a holistic approach to prevention and aging. 

Lasers remain a staple in many medical aesthetics protocols for aging and other skin conditions. However, while there are certainly positive outcomes, they rarely create long lasting changes to skin. Instead, there is often a worsening of the skin condition because of the trauma created and in far too many cases, permanent scarring occurs. 

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A successful skin care professional knows the last step of a facial is not simply sunscreen; today’s client expects to leave feeling educated about their skin. The creation of a treatment plan for the client begins during the consultation. As the client discusses concerns with their skin, the provider should make note of any adjustments to the day’s facial, what treatments will be best for next time, and which products will help their client achieve the results they seek. 

TODAY 

Once the service is finished, hand the client a mirror and share the specifics of the facial performed. By explaining each step and the benefits, a skin care professional builds trust with their client. Point out something positive about the results of the facial. 

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Hair To Skin: Why Hair Care Matters Too 

Hair care and skin care have long been distinctly separate personal care categories, but there is more overlap between them than one may immediately realize. A recent case report shows that leading hair care products can leave residue on skin for hours post-shower. In this study, shampoo and conditioner left a residue on the scalp, face, and back for up to two hours after use, and leave-in styling products left a residue on skin for up to four hours.1  

THE HAIR CARE LINK 

The relationship between hair care products and skin is important because hair care products are not typically formulated with skin in mind. These products can actually contribute to skin issues, including acne, eczema, reactive skin, and a dry or flaky scalp.  

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References 

  1. Rubin, IK, Gourion-Arsiquaud S. Deposition and retention of hair care product residue over time on specific skin areas. J Drugs Dermatol 2020;19:419-423
  2. Rubin IK. Efficacy of a Non-Comedogenic Hair Care Regimen for the Reduction of Mild-to-Moderate Truncal and Facial Acne: A Single-Arm 8-Week Study. J Drugs Dermatol 202;20:690-693.
  3. 3. Warshaw EM, Schlarbaum JP, Silverberg JI et al. Contact dermatitis to personal care products is increasing (but different!) in males and females: North American Contact Dermatitis Group data, 1996-2016. J Am Acad Dermatol 2021;85:1446-1455.
  4. 4.  Pham CT, Juhasz M, Lin J et al. Allergic Contact Dermatitis of the Scalp Associated With Scalp Applied Products: A Systematic Review of Topical Allergens. Dermatitis 2022; 33:235.248.

Beyond Skin Care: The Art of Intention In The Treatment Room

In todays fast-paced and demanding world, people are increasingly seeking ways to escape the hustle and bustle of their daily lives. Skin care professionals offer a refuge where clients can relax, rejuvenate, and indulge in self-care. The key to elevating the client experience lies in building an intentional experience that caters to the holistic needs of clients, touching on each of their five senses.

INTENTIONALITY & BRAND IDENTITY

From the moment they step through the spa doors, clients should be welcomed into a space where every detail has been thoughtfully considered to provide a sense of comfort and relaxation. This includes an easy check-in process, being prepared for clients, stocked retail shelves, and refreshments, even if just a bottle of water – memories are often attached to emotional experiences. Carefully chosen color schemes, soothing music, calming scents, and comfortable treatment tables work together to create the client experience and ultimately help build the spa’s brand identity

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From Birth to Final Breath, Part II: Skin Physiology

Many functions of skin that begin to slow down around age 40 become more visible and more problematic into the 50s. Depending on an individual’s ethnicity, skin changes that appear with aging may not be as evident. The signs of aging on darker skin often does not appear as rapidly as they do on lighter skin tones. The darker skin is, the thicker it is, and it has more natural protection from ultraviolet A and ultraviolet B rays due to the melanin content. Genetics also play a large role in how quickly skin ages.

40S & 50S 

Collagen is the most abundant protein in skin and one of the most important. However, collagen production decreases by approximately 38% in one’s early 50s. This becomes more and more evident as the appearance of lines and wrinkles on skin increases and as skin’s plumpness diminishes. Women in this age group are normally experiencing menopause, which causes their level of estrogen to diminish and in turn, affects glycosaminoglycans, collagen, and elastin. Due to hormonal imbalances, the visible signs of skin aging are accelerated. Most women also experience hot flashes, which can further exacerbate any pre-existing vascular redness. In some cases, as testosterone becomes more dominant, the lipidic production may increase, causing blemishes to appear.  

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When Beauty Meets Responsibility 

In an era where environmental consciousness has become an integral part of daily life, sustainability is no longer a mere buzzword. It is a call to action. The skin care industry, driven by innovation and an unwavering pursuit of beauty, is no exception. Beyond the promises of radiant skin found in lotions, serums, and creams, this industry is undergoing a profound transformation, recognizing the paramount importance of sustainability across all its operations. The global skin care market, which reached an astounding $146.7 billion in size in 20211, is particularly influenced by personal choices when it comes to purchasing, and these choices wield significant environmental influence due to their sheer volume.

In a world increasingly conscious of environmental issues, sustainability has emerged as a central concern across various industries. However, the skin care industry stands out as an area where the impact of sustainability choices is readily visible. This article explores skin care sustainability’s importance, challenges in ingredient sourcing and packaging, and offers guidance for professionals to align with sustainability standards, including innovative packaging alternatives and product selection.

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Brittany Facio is an Arizona-based master aesthetics educator and expert storyteller. At AlumierMD, she puts her 15 years of varied experience to work as a global content development lead. She is passionate about how proper aesthetics education, sophisticated protocol implementation, and subject matter expertise can create life-changing encounters. She finds harmony in her life by enjoying leisure time with her family, exercising, and relishing the food her chef-husband makes her. She and her husband have been blessed with four amazing children. They have also rescued several fur and feather babies including their German shepherd, Hurk; cat, Luna; cockatiel, Sunny; and two backyard chickens.

Protecting the Front Line: The Acid Mantle 

Conventional skin care practices often overlook the importance of maintaining a healthy balance within the body, which is crucial for promoting healthy skin. Popular trends such as medium-depth peels, harsh foaming cleansers, and dermablading can all disrupt the body’s ability to fight off harmful pathogens and bacteria. The acid mantle, a thin film on skin’s outer layer with an average pH of 5.5, plays a vital role in maintaining this balance. Educating others on the importance of preserving the acid mantle's integrity is essential in protecting skin. 

THE ACID MANTLE BREAKDOWN

The acid mantle is a combination of sweat and sebum secretions mixed with amino acids, lactic acid, fatty acids, and more. This blend creates a mildly acidic environment that serves as skin’s primary defense against potential irritants, such as bacteria, viruses, and pollution. The acidity also restricts the growth of harmful microbes that prefer a more neutral pH. When the acid mantle is compromised, which can occur when skin’s pH rises or falls, it can lead to various skin problems such as acne, eczema, and infections.

A healthy acid mantle is essential for many vital functions. It helps skin retain moisture and nutrients, keeping it hydrated and nourished. The acidic environment helps key skin proteins maintain their optimal structure, such as ceramides that need to be structurally sound to form a protective barrier. The acidity also promotes desquamation, the shedding of dead skin cells to reveal fresh new ones, which is driven by enzymes that require a lower pH to activate properly.

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Twenty years ago, while working as an aesthetician, Justine Kahn discovered the need for individualized skin care solutions, as unique as fingerprints. This revelation ignited a passion for understanding skin’s complexities and nature's nurturing secrets. Out of this passion, Botnia was born, which has bloomed from humble beginnings in her kitchen to a thriving practice rooted in her garden. Today, Botnia stands proud, transformed from a cozy basement operation to a full-fledged lab, partnering with over 200 spas nationwide. 

Cosmetic Code: Natural Ingredients & Product Labels 

Cosmetic Code: Natural Ingredients & Product Labels

Proper product labeling is paramount to both the product manufacturer and the consumer. Survey findings show that 61% of women were committed to reading product labels prior to their purchase of skin care products. Furthermore, 68% to 78% of women ages 18 to 54 want skin care made from natural ingredients, stimulating the need to read product labels.1 To meet this demand ethically, product manufacturers need to create product labels that comply to industry standards, as delineated by the FDA Cosmetics Labeling Guide.

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Lydia Sarfati is an international industry leader, with over 46 years of experience as a spa owner, consultant, and aesthetician. She is the Founder/CEO of Repêchage, pioneers of seaweed-based  treatments, is the President of CIDESCO Section U.S.A, the world's major international beauty therapy association and a CIDESCO International Diplomate. She appears at industry trade shows, is the author of Success at Your Fingertips: How to Succeed in the Skin Care Business and The Repêchage® Book of Skincare Science & Protocols, and is a contributing author to textbooks such as The Milady Standard Esthetics: Fundamentals, Twelfth Edition, and Oncology Esthetics.

Skin Care Showdown: Natural Vs. Synthetic Ingredients 

Spa owners have a lot of decisions to make regarding product inventory and management. Decisions regarding backbar and retail products can be overwhelming given the sheer magnitude of options available, and the thoughtful balance between ingredients, brand recognition, availability, efficacy, costs, and client demand is essential. Skin care specialists are expected to serve as knowledgeable client resources, providing expertise on a variety of products, lines, ingredients, and formulations. 

GROWING PAINS

Given the global growth in the skin care market, this is no easy feat. The global skin care market size was valued at $146.7 billion in 2021 and is projected to reach $273.3 billion by 2031, growing at a Compound Annual Growth Rate (CAGR) of 6.7% from 2022 to 2031.1 Sales of skin care products grew by 13% last year in the United States, while makeup grew by only 1% in the same period. Online beauty retailers grew 24% in that time, with skin care leading the way. American women spend nearly a quarter of a million dollars on their appearance in their lifetime, new research reveals. The women surveyed, who said they routinely spend money on their appearance, spend an average of $3,756 a year (or $313 a month), which adds up to $225,360 throughout their entire lifetime (ages 18 to 78). Male respondents spend an average of $2,928 per year (or $244 a month), totaling $175,680 or about one-fourth (22%) less than women throughout their lifetime.

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Lila Castellanos has focused her energies into the beauty industry for the past 19 years, specializing in skin rejuvenation. As a licensed aesthetician, she has lent her expertise to several different environments including working as a paramedical aesthetician in the medical spa field as well as in both day spa and mobile spa business models. It was through these varied experiences, along with the interactions with her loyal clientele, that she honed her passion for improving and maintaining the health and integrity of her clients’ skin. Castellanos thrives on being able to use her extensive knowledge to customize each treatment to help her clients achieve the results they are searching for. Her adaptability and versatility are equally impressive in providing antiaging facials, treating acne, and minimizing the appearance of scarring or when addressing skin conditions that arise as a result of hormonal changes. 

Global Growth: The Medical Spa Market 

In A Tale of Two Cities, Charles Dickens famously wrote, “It was the best of times, it was the worst of times,” and for the global medical spa industry, this couldn’t be a truer statement. People across the globe are tightening their purse strings and closely watching where their money goes. Yet, the global medical spa market is projecting a 14.6% compound annual growth rate (CAGR) through 2032, making this the best of times. According to Global Industry Analysts, Inc., the United States medical spa market is projected to grow at 13.5% over the next decade. China’s market is forecast at a compound annual growth rate of 18.2% through 2027 while Japan is forecast at 10.3% and Canada at 12.2%. Germany’s growth is a standout in Europe with an estimated compound annual growth rate of 11.2%.

 

MEDSPA MONEY FLOW

The 2023 trends show people are investing their money in themselves and in small indulgences rather than larger ticket items. For the medical spa industry this is excellent news, especially as medical spas are focused more on complete client health and wellness journeys. Advances in skin care technology and increased awareness of antiaging products among potential clients are helping drive medical spa growth. Prevention is a big market, and skin care professionals are in the right place at the right time. Make educated decisions when it comes to purchasing expensive equipment and survey clients first when necessary.

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Internationally recognized aesthetic business development expert, Cheryl Whitman, is the founder and CEO of Beautiful Forever Consulting. She is a sought-after speaker and industry marketing specialist who assists physicians and medical spas in creating new profit centers, developing profitable private label product lines, ghost writing articles and eBooks, and identifying and executing new business strategies aimed at improving their bottom line. A celebrated author, Whitman’s turnkey educational system, “Aesthetic Medical Success System,” has assisted clients in opening or jumpstarting their current businesses. Her second book, “Beautifully Profitable, Forever Profitable,” provides solid, practical information on how to create, launch, and grow successful aesthetic medical practices and related businesses.

February 2024

Brands of the Month

  • Repechage
  • DMK Skin Revision Center
  • Celluma by Biophotas, Inc

Business

Virtual Sales, Real Profits: E-Commerce & Medspas 

Talent Search: How to Succeed in Staffing 

Global Growth: The Medical Spa Market 

The Other End: How Aesthetics Survived COVID-19 Pandemic Aesthetics

Beauty

Greenlighting Sustainability: Biotechnology & the Future of Sustainable Beauty

Lip Service: The Top 10 Lip Tips of 2023

In the Land of Lashes

Poreless Perfection: Glass Skin Makeup

Body

Mastering the Melt

Precision & Permanence  

Getting Intimate 

Beyond Waxing