Since coming onto the scene of medical aesthetics, photorejuvenation, also known as intense-pulsed light therapy, has been a practical service for clients seeking treatment options to combat photoaging of their skin. Photorejuvenation is a type of light therapy that uses broad-spectrum high-intensity light to target and break down sunspots and freckles, and it even helps repair unwanted skin texture. It can also help reduce the appearance of fine red veins, wrinkles, and blushing conditions such as rosacea. Photorejuvenation therapy has developed alongside laser and injectables as an effective service that skin care professionals can offer to improve overall complexion. The procedure is minimally invasive and involves little to no recovery time, making it a viable option for clients looking to better their complexion over time.

IN THE CHAIR
The procedure starts with a cleansing of the area and the application of a cool gel. The gel is used to lower skin temperature and provide comfort during the treatment. It also acts as a conductive medium enabling the wavelengths to uptake through skin without interference.1 Both the practitioner and client will wear protective eye gear, and the practitioner will use a handheld device to deliver the treatment. After the consultation, a single therapy session will take about 30 to 45 minutes. Depending on the customized treatment plan, clients will return for follow-up treatments about once a month for four months to help achieve optimal results.

Dr. Samuel Hetz is the owner and medical director of Concept Medical in Ottawa, Canada. Dr. Hetz completed his residency in family medicine at the University of Ottawa, followed by a fellowship in primary care skin conditions and office-based surgical procedures. He currently holds an academic appointment with the faculty of medicine at the University of Ottawa and regularly teaches fellow physicians and residents at his office. Dr. Hetz has regularly advised small firms such as Algonquin College and MD Consultants, as well as large organizations, including SNC Lavalin. He is regularly called on as a medicolegal expert in the field of medical aesthetics for national law firms, the Canadian Medical Protective Association, and most recently, the College of Physicians and Surgeons of Ontario. Most recently, Dr. Hetz was named one of the 40 Under 40 recipients for Ottawa by the Ottawa Business Journal and Ottawa Board of Trade.

Whether a licensed skin professional is expanding their menu’s hair removal options or making hair removal a part of their service offerings, period, it may seem like daunting task. However, this service is really a no-brainer. Anyone can wax, but it does require confidence and the proper education and practice. 

PICTURE OF PROFIT

Why is the decision to add hair removal to the menu a no-brainer? No other service offers the high profit percentages (over 1,500%) that hair removal does in less than 30 minutes, making it the money-maker of spa offerings. 

While costs vary, the following examples are the two most popular and profitable hair removal services:  

Founder and CEO of The Wax Chick, Crickett Enos is a licensed aesthetician, product creator, writer, speaker, and advanced waxing educator specializing in eyebrow design and Brazilian waxing. With over 18 years of experience in the industry, she has trained and empowered thousands to wax with skill, confidence, and efficiency.

Waxing is a popular form of hair removal as it is quick, efficient, and clients feel the immediate hair-free results. Often, waxing is the preferred choice of hair removal because it is both fast and quite affordable. As with any professional service offered at a spa, it is important to take the appropriate steps to fully qualify a client as a waxing candidate prior to offering the service. There are several lifestyle factors which can directly impact the effectiveness and safety of the wax on a client’s skin and instances when waxing may not be the best form of hair removal. Here is a guide to qualify a client as a waxing candidate and other things to consider.

STEP ONE

Gather as much information as possible about the client in terms of lifestyle habits, medications, and their skin care routine. Using a client intake form that each client completes prior to their wax is a good way to gain a better understanding of their overall lifestyle choices. For example, waxers need to be aware if clients are using certain common ingredients found in skin care products. It is recommended that ingredients such as retinol and glycolic acid are avoided for 48 to 72 hours prior to a facial wax as both ingredients can cause skin to be more sensitive. These active ingredients work by decreasing the thickness of the outermost layer of skin, which may cause it to lift with the wax, leaving a very sensitive client. Asking clients to refrain from using these products prior to their wax helps reduce any chances of skin lifting during the wax. 

Additionally, it is good practice to understand other lifestyle choices, such as how much time a client typically spends in the sun. It is highly suggested to avoid suntanning at least two to three days after a wax as skin is sensitive and can burn more easily. Finally, there are certain medications that can indirectly affect the sensitivity of a client’s skin. Isotretinoin and prednisone are two medications that are known to cause skin to be highly sensitive. It is important to inquire what medications clients are taking ahead of their scheduled appointment as they will need to stop taking them well in advance so their wax can be performed safely. The intake form should be completed by all new clients in advance of the wax appointment so any issues can be addressed prior to the treatment and any disappointment can be avoided. Additionally, educating loyal clients on the importance of communicating any changes to their profile is also a good idea to avoid upsetting situations.

Lindsay Miller is the president of LYCON Wax North America. Having first discovered LYCON Wax in the United Kingdom 10 years ago, she has dedicated her time to growing the brand across North America, including introducing LYCON to Canada. Training and product quality are extremely important to Miller, and she prides herself on building a strong team around her that can offer the best customer experience possible. LYCON continues to be a market leader in hair removal wax and is used in top spas and salons around the world.

From Micro to Hydro

by Adriana Perez-Nakamura, licensed aesthetician 

With so many treatments to choose from, it can be overwhelming for a spa manager or owner to decide what new services to bring into the spa. There is a fine balance between what clients want, what will give the best results, the cost per treatment, and the return on investment. The spa also needs to consider whether a certain service is a trend or a tried-and-true treatment that will be worth the investment long-term. 

This article will break down two different exfoliation services that have been around for some time: microdermabrasion and hydrodermabrasion. While neither treatment is necessarily better than the other and both share similar results and features, it is important for spa owners to fully understand each treatment in order to choose the most appropriate service for their clientele as well as their bottom line.

MICRO & HYDRO

Microdermabrasion and hydrodermabrasion are two separate methods of mechanical exfoliation. Microdermabrasion exfoliates skin with either an abrasive diamond-tip wand or with a wand that sprays crystals (usually made of aluminum oxide) onto skin. Hydrodermabrasion exfoliates by spraying a saline solution combined with other skin care ingredients like alpha and beta hydroxy acids at a high pressure to slow away dead skin.

Both exfoliation methods are essentially going to have the same effect on skin, which is disrupting the stratum corneum. This disruption stimulates the production of new cells deep within the living layers of skin, as well as cellular turnover. The result is increased blood flow in the dermis and better cellular nutrition, which enhances skin’s elasticity and texture. However, the one major difference between the two is that hydrodermabrasion infuses skin with moisture and hydration as it exfoliates. 

Adriana Perez-Nakamura has been an aesthetician for over 12 years and has owned and operated her skin care studio (Skincare By Adriana) since 2013. In addition to her aesthetics career, she is a freelance beauty and skin care copywriter specializing in SEO. For facts and other information in this article, she consulted with Altair Instruments, leaders in microdermabrasion technology.

Moringa oleifera is a perennial tree originating in India that is cultivated in many tropical regions and can withstand and grow even in the most undesirable conditions. It is referred to as the drumstick tree or tree of life, and its high protein, vitamin, and mineral content has been used to treat many conditions, including malnutrition. 

mprestriction ids="3,4,26,18,6,7,8,9,14,18,43,44"}

In skin care, it can serve as a multifunctional ingredient that benefits skin with a combination of active and moisturizing properties but also adds to the safety of products. Utilizing multifunctional products is a recent trend in skin care product manufacturing since using innovative raw materials, ingredients, and product forms (foams, jellies, creams, and more) became outdated as a competitive advantage. Moringa is one of the plant extracts that provides moisturizing, soothing, anti-wrinkle, and antioxidant benefits all in one ingredient. With natural and safe skin care products trending with consumer demand, moringa can protect against environmental concerns like pollution and reduce adverse effects that other ingredients might have on skin. 

The moringa tree’s different parts contribute to various benefits; many of them acknowledged in ayurvedic medicine. Its leaves contain various flavonoids, or naturally occurring phenolic compounds, like myricetin, quercetin, kaempferol, isorhamnetin, and others. The phenolic compounds have antioxidant properties because they consist of a hydroxyl group that donates hydrogen to neutralize free radicals. This improves skin quality through increased hydration and contributes antiaging benefits. Moringa has also been studied for sunscreen and photoprotective characteristics. 

Studies show that tested moringa oleifera leaf extracts in concentrations of up to 5% have a positive effect on cellular proliferation and metabolism and may reduce oxidative stress in cells and skin irritation, in addition to aiding product safety. 

While there are no studies detailing the potential side effects of moringa, it is a multifunctional ingredient that fits the current manufacturer trend of offering many benefits to products, both for skin results and product safety function, successfully replacing synthetic ingredients. 

References

1. Nizioł-Łukaszewska, Z., Furman-Toczek, D., Bujak, T., Wasilewski, T., & Hordyjewicz-Baran, Z. (2020). Moringa oleifera L. Extracts as Bioactive Ingredients That Increase Safety of Body Wash Cosmetics. Dermatology Research and Practice, 2020, 1–14. https://doi.org/10.1155/2020/8197902
2. Meireles, D., Gomes, J., Lopes, L., Hinzmann, M., & Machado, J. (2020). A review of properties, nutritional and pharmaceutical applications of Moringa Oleifera: Integrative approach on conventional and traditional Asian medicine. Advances in Traditional Medicine, 20(4), 495–515. https://doi.org/10.1007/s13596-020-00468-0

{/mprestriction}

The Contrarian Corner is a space for readers to broaden their understanding on foundational practices of the trade that oppose or reject popular opinion. 

Most of the professional skin care world believes that retinol is an essential ingredient in an antiaging skin care routine. Most of them also believe that because retinols in all their forms are capable of becoming retinoic acid by conversion, they are therefore increasing collagen and elastin in skin. This is not true.

Treating pregnant clients continues to be a confusing and often scary idea for many skin care professionals. It is important to thoughtfully put together the perfect treatment and homecare plan for pregnant clients, but before doing so, professionals must understand what happens to skin when conceiving a child. This general information can help the professional make more informed decisions on what they recommend to their clients. When a client is pregnant, they are most likely experiencing increased blood flow, oil production, and melanin stimulation. Out of these changes, various skin conditions can arise or become worse. The most common ones are acne and hyperpigmentation. 

INCREASED ACNE

Since topical and oral retinoids are notoriously off limits for all nine months of pregnancy and breastfeeding, professionals need to get a bit more creative with acne management. Some experts believe low-dosage retinol and retinyl palmitate might be safe, but it is still usually better to avoid them altogether until there is more clear-cut safety evidence. Even bakuchiol, a trending ingredient coined the pregnancy-safe retinol alternative, does not have enough studies to definitively pinpoint its effect on fetuses. Instead, products with pregnancy-safe ingredients like azelaic acid, niacinamide, zinc, beta glucan, colloidal silver, and stabilized vitamin C are great ways to supply pregnant, acne-prone skin with antiseptic, healing, and anti-inflammatory benefits.

Is it possible to give clients a nonsurgical face-lift? Yes, absolutely. Buccal or intraoral massage is a natural, holistic alternative to injections and surgery. This technique is quickly becoming known to give a more sculpted look to the face, improve facial tone, relax wrinkle depth, and make clients feel like they have just come back from a vacation with higher cheekbones and glowing skin.

Everyone wants a mascara look that gives them darker, fuller, and longer-looking eyelashes, but who wants the added morning makeup routine? With a large potential client base to work from, beauty professionals may consider learning more about offering eyelash services like eyelash extensions to give clients bolder eyelashes, eyelash tinting for more drama, or eyelash lifts for a natural curl.

FRESH & PHOTO-READY

Eyelash extensions are semipermanent synthetic fibers used to create volume and extend the length of natural eyelashes. In other words, one single extension is placed on one natural eyelash. This results in instant volume along with long, luscious eyelashes. Best of all, most manufactured eyelashes have been specially designed to look completely natural. This is on trend for professionals wanting to give their clients an enhanced appearance without looking false.

When thinking of what the ideal treatment space should be like, creating the perfect environment aesthetically is what comes first, from products to protocols. Setting up the perfect treatment space means that all the visual and textual elements are in place to make the best first impression on the five senses. However, professionals often forget about the unspoken culture created for that treatment space.

TREATMENT CULTURE

Culture speaks volumes to whether someone feels comfortable or not, not only entering the space but returning as well. This begs the question of what culture has been created in treatment spaces for all genders? To broaden that question beyond professionals’ individual treatment spaces to the entire skin health industry, what culture has been enabled to exist in beauty when it comes to those who identify as a man, transgender, or are gender-fluid? 

Reference

1. Cooper, C. R. (2022). The No Compromise Black Skin Care Guide: The Gender And Teen Equity Edition. Charmaine Cooper.