All In Order: Inventory Management

There is nothing more annoying than running low on a product and not even realizing it. It happens to the best of us, but with proper planning and systems in place, you can limit how often you catch yourself off guard.  

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Taylor Wilson is a licensed aesthetician hailing from the Washington Metropolitan area. She’s a graduate of Von Lee International School of Esthetics, founded by the legendary Carole Walderman. She was wax trainer at a European Wax center and eventually transitioned into her own studio, JB Skin Clinic full time where she provided waxing and skin revision treatments. Realizing she wanted to focus on education and helping other aestheticians reach their goals, she came on board to Starpil as their brand educator. 

Double Trouble: Safely Combining Modalities

Offering multiple modalities in a single service can yield amazing results for clients. Often, clients are willing to pay more for upgraded services that will get them results faster. Safely knowing how to provide this is important, and many new and even seasoned skin care professionals may still have their reservations when it comes to combining equipment. However, it is possible to build your confidence and allow your treatments to reach the next level. Look for classes with reputable companies or educators and companies or schools that you can continue to reach out to with additional questions even after the course is over. 

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Andrea Gregaydis is a licensed aesthetician and international CIDESCO diplomat. She holds multiple additional licenses as a New York state instructor and nail technician, as well as certified laser technician. Gregaydis is the lead instructor at the Aesthetic Science Institute and has over 10 years of experience as a practitioner, team coordinator, and role model for hundreds of future skin care professionals. She is a contributing author to top industry trade magazines, as well as a speaker at various aesthetics conferences across the United States. She is also a CIDESCO International Examiner.

Belle Franco

An industry veteran, Franco is the lead aesthetician at The Spa at PGA National Resort in Palm Beach Gardens, Florida. 

What is your educational background, and how do you continue your education in the industry?

When I was 14 years old, I told my parents I wanted to be a cosmetologist and hair stylist because I wanted to have an artistic and creative career. After a few years as a hair stylist, I decided to train in makeup and aesthetics and attended Christine Valmy’s school in New York, New York. Before long, skin care became my passion and is now my primary focus. I continue my education with courses, classes, and webinars. I also participate in classes and education at tradeshows, such as at the Repêchage classes at IECSC in Palm Beach, Florida. In addition, Repêchage CEO and founder, Lydia Sarfati has done extensive on-site training at the Spa at PGA, as well as co-partner Shiri Sarfati. 

How long have you been practicing, and why did you choose this field? 

I have been in the industry since 1976. Skin care truly is my passion, and I am so happy to be able to work in an industry that I love.

Why is Repêchage your ultimate go-to, and how has it helped you become one of the best professionals in the industry? 

Repêchage is my primary brand because I see instant results. The education and support from the company is unparalleled, and I have had the great pleasure of training with Lydia Sarfati. For our clients who are active and frequently outdoors (for example, tennis champion, Venus Williams), Repêchage developed our signature treatment called “Facial of Champions.” This includes the iconic Repêchage Four-Layer Facial, Biolight Luminex Mask glycolic peel, and LED therapy to brighten skin, while an antiaging hand treatment and Sea Spa Glow foot and leg scrub restore hard-working hands and feet.  

How do you stay educated with this brand? 

I frequently attend seminars and webinars where Repêchage is featured. The brand also offers extensive training courses accessible through the lydiasarfati.com educational website. This does not even begin to mention the in-spa training I have received from the Repêchage team.

What benefits do your clients see from using the retail of this brand? 

They see hydration, firming of fine lines and wrinkles, and glowing skin! 

How do you promote yourself and the brand?

I first create trust with my clients. I feel confident in my abilities as a professional skin care expert, and I know the brand will deliver great results. It is because of this that I am one of the brands’ top retailers at the Spa at PGA National.

Besides working with the brand, what else has helped you become one of the best? 

Through the years of working in the field, I have kept education as my primary focus. I also personally try and use products before I use them on my clients. I feel it is my obligation to verify the products’ quality. I also feel it is important to look the part. I wake up every morning and prepare myself for the workday with a light, healthy breakfast and do not leave the house without my makeup and hair done. I have to feel that I look good if I am going to tell others how to improve their own appearance.

How do you give back to the industry or community?

I try my best to inspire my teammates on best practices and retailing. I am especially proud when the advice I give to new skin care professionals helps them grow in their career.

Belle’s Must-Have Products 

Vita Cura B3 Serum Complex 

Vita Cura Triple Firming Cream

Opti-Firm Eye Contour Cream 

Vita Cura Opti-Lift® Serum 

@labelleofpalmbeach

pgaresort.com/spa

(800) 863-2819

Pro(con)biotic Perspective

Probiotics are extremely popular for their theoretical benefit, but I have learned that the science does not necessarily support their use. I also have been witnessing more and more skin conditions that result from taking probiotics including candida acne and H. pylori (redness under nose). How could this be if probiotics are the “good” bacteria?

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In-Demand Devices: Tools for the Treatment Room

The use of devices in aesthetics can breathe new life into a treatment room and is gaining popularity among clients. The marketing trends of aesthetic modalities have clients seeking treatments with various skin rejuvenation devices. With all the devices available for skin care professionals to use, it may be hard to decipher which are best for a practice – microcurrent, sonophoresis, and LED are just a few of the sought-out devices used in skin care treatments to enhance results. The use of devices should not be taken lightly. First and foremost, professionals must protect their license by knowing their state regulations and the FDA classification of each device. State regulations are not always clear, making it hard to understand the necessary rules. 

LED

LED, commonly referred to as light therapy, produces low levels of light energy. During the 1990s, NASA-sponsored research determined that an LED system could provide the necessary wavelengths and intensities to produce photosynthesis and grow plants in space. NASA subsequently discovered that LED could address astronaut health by maintaining strong cellular growth, preventing bone and muscle loss, and boosting the body’s ability to heal wounds. 

A light-emitting diode is a type of semiconductor that converts electrical energy into light energy that is released in the form of photons (bundles of light energy). The body’s cells can absorb photons and convert them to the form of energy that cells use to carry out normal functions. This form of energy is called adenosine triphosphate, or ATP. As aging occurs, the body produces less ATP, which inhibits cells from performing at peak function. 

In the treatment room, providers use LED at various wavelengths of the light spectrum to target specific skin concerns. Blue light is mainly used for acne, due to its antibacterial properties. Red light is used for skin rejuvenation to improve the appearance of lines and wrinkles. Infrared is often used to fight signs of inflammation. Blue, red, and infrared are the most researched types, but there are other beneficial colors as well. The treatment is simple if all the guidelines are followed, including the use of eye protection. LED is applied on clean skin or with an approved clear serum or mask. It is widely used in skin care by skin care professionals due to its demonstrated effective results with the appearance of many skin conditions. 

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References:

  1. Whelan, H. T., Smits, R. L., Buchman, E. V., Whelan, N. T., Turner, S. G., Margolis, D. A., Cevenini, V., Stinson, H., Ignatius, R., Martin, T., Cwiklinski, J., Philippi, A. F., Graf, W. R., Hodgson, B., Gould, L., Kane, M., Chen, G., & Caviness, J. (2001). Effect of NASA light-emitting diode irradiation on wound healing. Journal of Clinical Laser Medicine & Surgery, 19(6), 305–314. https://doi.org/10.1089/104454701753342758 
  1. Barolet, D. (2008). Light-emitting diodes (LEDs) in dermatology. Seminars in Cutaneous Medicine and Surgery, 27(4), 227–238. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.sder.2008.08.003
  1. Braukus, M., & Berg, J. (2003, November 13). NASA light-emitting diode technology brings relief in clinical trials. NASA. Retrieved February 24, 2023, from https://www.nasa.gov/home/hqnews/2003/nov/HQ_03366_clinical_trials.html
  1. NASA. (2008). LED device illuminates new path to healing. NASA. Retrieved February 24, 2023, from https://spinoff.nasa.gov/Spinoff2008/hm_3.html
  1. Goldberg, D. J., & Russell, B. A. (2006). Combination Blue (415 nm) and red (633 nm) led phototherapy in the treatment of mild to severe acne vulgaris. Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy, 8(2), 71–75. https://doi.org/10.1080/14764170600735912
  1. Ghafarian, H. (2017, February 15). Consider of micro-current's effect to variation of facial wrinkle trend, Randomized Clinical Trial Study. Academia.edu. Retrieved February 24, 2023, from https://www.academia.edu/31457903/Consider_of_Micro_Currents_effect_to_variation_of_Facial_Wrinkle_trend_Randomized_Clinical_Trial_Study
  1. Park, D., Park, H., Seo, J., & Lee, S. (2014). Sonophoresis in Transdermal Drug Deliveries. Ultrasonics, 54(1), 56–65. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ultras.2013.07.007
  1. Johns, L. D. (2002, July). Nonthermal effects of therapeutic ultrasound: The frequency resonance hypothesis. Journal of athletic training. Retrieved February 24, 2023, from https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC164359/

 

The Serious Six: Common Barriers to New Clientele

Being a beauty business owner means a continuous cycle of attracting new clients. However, there could be some mistakes preventing them from bursting at the seams with new clients. Let’s explore six mistakes spa business owners make when attracting new clients.

THE SERIOUS SIX

  1. No one knows the brand. Brand awareness is when potential and current clients start to become familiar with the qualities or image of a brand and their services and products. Establishing one’s brand in their market is key to attracting new clients. One way to build brand awareness is to increase a business’s social media presence. This can be done by making sure the business’s logo, photographs, and contact information are uploaded and consistent across all profiles. Also, make sure to post often on all social media channels. Another way to increase brand awareness is to increase one’s local presence in the current market by handing out flyers, business cards, and sending out marketing material to the nearby community. 

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Touch Up: The Rise of Facial Massage

As more people flock toward holistic wellness and with the rise in popularity of neurotoxin-alternative treatments such as gua sha, face taping, and face cupping, many have chosen to forgo injections. But rather than being a neurotoxin alternative, facial massage should be considered the antidote to neurotoxins. Where these types of injections produce stagnation in the tissue, facial massage aims to increase blood flow, lymph flow, and qi, or vital life force. 

MASSAGE MATTERS

Intentional facial massage provides immediate results, and it can become more pronounced over the days following the treatment. Effects from facial massage are also cumulative, especially if clients are provided with massage techniques that can be practiced at home between treatments. It is incredible to realize that facial features are not fixed, and through manipulation, features can be enhanced.

Mind, body, and soul are all cared for during massage-forward or massage-focused treatments. In the world today, this is worth its weight in gold. This type of psychosomatic skin care is not something one gets from only applying and removing products. 

Massage improves the health of the connective tissue below the surface of skin, the fascia. Healthy fascia is elastic, flexible, mobile, and hydrated. When fascia is unhealthy, it becomes bound up and dehydrated. This affects the aging process through the elasticity of skin, contributing to sagging.

A significant benefit of facial massage is the support of lymphatic health. A healthy lymphatic system is vital to overall body and skin health. It is one of the main components of achieving a clear, healthy glow. 

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Extinguishing the H.E.A.T: Handling Complications

Handling complications is stressful for every provider because complications have implications. Often, the biggest implication is the fear of doing harm. Licensed professionals may begin to question their skill set, reputation, and clients’ satisfaction. The device, client, or product pairing may be at fault, but remember, every service a professional renders has a risk and complications will happen. They are inherent, and the more it is understood that they will happen, the better prepared service providers can be for dealing with them when they do. It seems counterintuitive to expect the worst to avoid the worst, like running into a burning building. Yet, intervening quickly and with a plan will not only allow the issue to be nipped in the bud, but it will ultimately strengthen the provider.

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Simplifying Serums: To Layer or Not to Layer

Layering serums is trending across many social media platforms, often ignoring what is specific about a particular serum’s formula. Most influencers are familiar with serums that have only one or two actives at most and conclude that layering many serums is the best method to improve skin and correct several skin conditions. In short, they assume a serum cannot contain numerous actives and cannot correct several skin problems at the same time. There are alternatives.

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LESS IS MORE

Actives are chosen for the benefits they deliver to skin; multiple benefits are desired by virtually everyone. Nevertheless, it is not necessary to use more than one or two serums.A well formulated serum can hold numerous actives in high percentages several peptides, biosaccharide gum-1, resveratrol, stem cells, numerous botanicals, algae, vitamins, minerals, and more. It is the art and science of formulating high-end products versus formulating simple formulas. There are exceptions, such as vitamin C, that should not be added to such a formula, justifying the use of a separate serum. A vitamin C serum can be layered (waiting a few minutes between the two serums) or rotated in the morning and night.

Some ingredients that could be deemed incompatible in the same serum can be used in the same routine. For example, a serum made with stable vitamin C, aloe, and hyaluronic acid can be followed by a glycolic acid-based moisturizer a few minutes later.Another example is to try utilizing a toner made with a natural, plant-based retinol followed by a serum with a technically contraindicated ingredient.

Selling numerous serums may be a chosen sales strategy by some vendors and influencers, but using fewer serums made with numerous active ingredients may be a more attractive option, delivering skin results in less time and more economically.

Come Rain or Shine

Direct outdoor sun exposure is an obvious cause of sun damage, but many people do not realize the equally harmful effects that can occur from daily indoor sun exposure. Ultraviolet radiation leads to actinic damage, which is the chemical changes that occur in skin expressed as discoloration, uneven leathery texture, wrinkles, and loose skin. Regular routines, like daily commuting and energy-efficient lighting, could be damaging to skin. Understanding the sources of indoor solar damage and the protocols to protect skin can minimize and prevent its adverse effects.

SUNLIGHT FROM THE OUTSIDE IN

The most straightforward indoor culprit of sun damage is the sunlight that passes through windows. Although most ultraviolet B rays are blocked by glass because of their short wavelength, ultraviolet A rays have a longer wavelength and impose the primary risk of light that radiates from the outdoors in. This inspires a balance conversation around holistic wellness. Blue light is within the ultraviolet radiation spectrum, which is essential for supporting mood and mental health. It is responsible for helping regulate the body’s natural circadian rhythms, not to mention direct sunlight is necessary to promote vitamin D synthesis.

It is a catch-22 – morning daylight radiance is recommended, but it comes with a price. Ultraviolet blue light radiation activates and regulates the healthy production of cortisol. Cortisol controls energy levels and supports alertness during the daytime. On the same accord, ultraviolet radiation poses the risk of premature skin aging, cancer, and even damage to the eyes.

ELECTRONIC DEVICES

Most people in modern-day society use electronic devices daily, and the blue light emitted from those devices has adverse effects. Moreover, constantly sitting in front of a computer, television, tablet, or phone screen causes confusion in the body as its internal clock is not clear of the time of day. The day and night sensory imbalance disrupts the body’s natural signals to activate melatonin production and suppress cortisol at nighttime and vice versa. Nighttime melatonin deficiency and increased cortisol on a consistent basis come with the collateral cost of poor rest, sleep, and enhanced stress. This contributes to premature skin and body aging and even illness cumulating on the already adverse effect of direct ultraviolet exposure that compromises cellular integrity.

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References

  1. Tang, Z, Tong, X, Huang, J, Liu, L, Wang, D, Yang, S. Research progress of keratinocyte-programmed cell death in UV-induced Skin photodamage. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed. 2021; 37: 442– 448.
  2. Guy GP Jr, Watson M, Seidenberg AB, Hartman AM, Holman DM, Perna F. Trends in indoor tanning and its association with sunburn among US adults. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2017;76(6):1191-1193. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2017.01.022.
  3. Shipp LR, Warner CA, Rueggeberg FA, Davis LS. Further Investigation Into the Risk of Skin Cancer Associated With the Use of UV Nail Lamps. JAMA Dermatol. 2014;150(7):775–776.
  4. Mironava, T., Hadjiargyrou, M., Simon, M. and Rafailovich, M.H. (2012), The Effects of UV Emission from Compact Fluorescent Light Exposure on Human Dermal Fibroblasts and Keratinocytes In Vitro. Photochemistry and Photobiology, 88: 1497-1506.
  5. An S, Kim K, Moon S, et al. Indoor Tanning and the Risk of Overall and Early-Onset Melanoma and Non-Melanoma Skin Cancer: Systematic Review and Meta-Analysis. Cancers (Basel). 2021;13(23):5940. Published 2021 Nov 25. doi:10.3390/cancers13235940
  6. Achachi, A., Vocanson, M., Bastien, P., Péguet-Navarro, J., Grande, S., Goujon, C., Breton, L., Castiel-Higounenc, I., Nicolas, J. F., & Gueniche, A. (2015). UV Radiation Induces the Epidermal Recruitment of Dendritic Cells that Compensate for the Depletion of Langerhans Cells in Human Skin. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 135(8), 2058-2067.
  7. Timares L, Katiyar SK, Elmets CA. DNA damage, apoptosis and langerhans cells--Activators of UV-induced immune tolerance. Photochem Photobiol. 2008 Mar-Apr;84(2):422-36.
  8. Seité S, Zucchi H, Moyal D, Tison S, Compan D, Christiaens F, Gueniche A, Fourtanier A. Alterations in human epidermal Langerhans cells by ultraviolet radiation: quantitative and morphological study. Br J Dermatol. 2003 Feb;148(2):291-9.

Victoria Tabak is the CEO of NATPURE Clinical Skin Care. She is a two-time international award-winning licensed aesthetician, oncology-trained, a published skin and wellness expert, and a nationally recognized skin care educator. She has more than 20 years of experience in the beauty industry along with a master’s degree in business and minor in chemistry. She has worked with other aestheticians, dermatologists, plastic surgeons, and cosmetologists to formulate and revolutionize a holistic approach to beauty that people love, alongside her father, a distinguished scientist.