Dr Erin Madigan-Fleck

Dr Erin Madigan-Fleck

Perfecting Peeling Practices: Precautions & Considerations

According to most medical practitioners, the goal of a chemical peel is to remove a predictable, uniform thickness of damaged skin, which subsequently allows for normal wound healing and skin rejuvenation to occur while simultaneously minimizing complications, such as scarring and unwanted pigmentary change.1

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Erin Madigan-FleckAn educational icon with over 37 years in the in the aesthetic industry, Dr. Erin Madigan-Fleck is a naturopathic medical doctor, licensed master cosmetologist, aesthetician, and licensed aesthetic instructor. Dr. Madigan-Fleck received her naturopathic doctoral degree from the University of Science, Arts & Technology College of Medicine and her naturopathic clinical studies at Progressive Medical Center in Atlanta, Georgia. She is a member of the American Society for Nutrition, International Association for Applied Corneotherapy, and the Society of Dermatological Skin Care Specialists. She is the CEO and owner of Naturophoria, a naturopathic and skin care clinic in Atlanta, Georgia and DermaEducationTV postgraduate aesthetic training.

 

Retakes, Remakes, and Revivals

Aesthetic professionals are always on the quest for the latest and greatest trends, products, and equipment to enrich both their knowledge and skillsets to meet the needs of a diverse and ever-changing industry. Learning potential is enhanced through the information highway and continual discovery. The internet and social media permits skin care professionals to have easy access to information and technology to explore trending products and equipment. Interestingly, the industry is much like the fashion industry – both evolve in cyclic patterns with occasional unveiling of influential perspectives and trends. True to form – skin care professionals have experienced an evolving and expanding resurgence of vintage products, tools, and equipment that are not new to the aesthetic industry. As the saying goes – what was once old is new again. Forecast trending and influencers alike are rediscovering well-loved aesthetic treasures that never left the toolbox – they have always been there waiting to be discovered.

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BEHOLD THE ENZYME 

Enzymes have had their royal place in beauty dating back to Cleopatra, and in the early 1900s, Madam Ludmillia in the Romanov court of Russia used pancreatin and papain in various mixtures and powder blends for “shelusheniye” (desquamation).1 The use of protease enzyme compounds for the general commercial cosmetic and dermatological market emerged over 60 years ago. Many enzyme products used today are hybrid remakes of the original enzyme powders that were once blended with water or other solution into a paste – then brushed on to the skin and activated by the use of a steamer. Proteolytic enzymes were considered the major treatment focus in a European facial and were used consistently by a large majority of estheticians prior to the introduction of glycolic acid. The wide selection of enzyme formulations today offers an impressive array of natural fruit additives and other actives that resemble purees, rather than the traditional powder form of enzymes. Fruits have an abundance of natural enzymes, and the main active constituents of a traditional proteolytic enzyme formula is papain or papaya (carcia papaya) and bromelain or pineapple (ananas cosmous). Proteolytic enzymes will primarily target the degradation of proteins (corneocytes) and perform epidermal ablation. Enzymes are an alternative to chemical peeling and may be used on any skin type (including rosacea) as they act in an anti-inflammatory manner, assisting in dislodging sebaceous filaments and comedones, reduce visible skin scaling and dryness, and may improve efficacy of products due to corneocyte desquamation. Proteolytic enzymatic reactions are triggered by moisture and heat (steaming) and are influenced by the skin’s pH. 

VIVE’ LA AMPOULE

Ampoules have recently resurfaced as a very popular trending beauty ritual and as a must have for backbar. They have also made their way into the retail consumer product market. Ampoules first appeared and were developed by the French pharmacist Stanislaus Limousin in the 1890s. They were used for storing liquid medicinals.2 The original presentation of ampoules was a unique design of a hermetically sealed slender glass reservoir. The advantage of this specialty process was to preserve and protect the bioactives. The ampoule appeared in the French beauty sector with the isolation of hormones, royal jelly, and egg yolks in the 1930s and were considered one of the most important aesthetic products included in the protocols of European aestheticians for decades.3 Ampoules were also manufactured to be ionizable. They were identified for having a particular catalyst of ions or pH and were integrated into facials to be used with a selected current and polarity with iontophoresis, sonophoresis, galvanic, microcurrent, or electroporation. Electrical modalities were and still are extremely popular in Europe and considered an important part of the treatment. Many American aestheticians practicing in the early 1980s were influenced by the original concept of the European facia (and variations of) calling for the use of two, three, four, or more ampoules in one treatment as each was selected and used for a specific purpose. This factor also supports the current popular trending of layering several serums and products at one time, which also has been a practice in use for decades. 

Since ampoules are encased with no opening until the scored glass seal is broken, they are also protected from bacteria. They contain concentrated actives or temperate solutions that if exposed to air, rendered oxidization, and will likely lose their potency. Ampoules are single-use applications of concentrated ingredients to target specific skin concerns and contain little to no preservatives. They are concentrates of a single isolate or sometimes a blend. Ampoules may contain isolate actives such as minerals, hyaluronic acid, fruit extracts, placentas, plant extracts, vitamin C, green tea, seaweed, CoQ10, amino acids, botanicals, and other highly desirable ingredients. They are priced somewhat higher individually and more costly to manufacture than serums with a simple bottle and dropper configuration (which often require more ingredients and preservatives for stability). Although the glass ampoules are more expensive than standard containers there are considerations, regarding efficacy where concentration, freshness, and all-glass containers are worth the extra cost.

THE VAC-SPRAY & VENTUSE 

The vac-spray first appeared in 1916 because of its discovery during that era. Suitable treatment for wrinkling of the skin required massage, compression, or some stimulation to increase blood circulation. The vacuum massage device was able to deliver a cupping motion though air suction with a tube and a glass cup placed on the skin.4 The design of the device, of course, evolved into what is now known as the vac-spray machine – and for most aestheticians, it was one of the first machine experiences in aesthetic school. 

The vac-spray machine offers several benefits in one relatively inexpensive unit. Firstly, the vacuum portion was intended to be used after an enzyme or exfoliant application and steaming. Glass ventuse pieces in several shapes are selected for their size and function and are attached to the hose to be used for the vacuuming of surface debris after desquamation. The suction pressure is generally not strong enough to dislodge comedones; however, it most certainly encourages blood circulation and machine-assisted cleansing that clients enjoy. Extractions may typically follow after the vacuuming. Another highly desirable application of the vacuum-spray device is the application of pneumatic (pumping) lymphatic drainage with a viscous and gliding serum. The rhythmic motion and gliding technique facilitate a gentle pressure and encourages the flow of lymph. The selection of the air pressure and the ventuse shape and placement on the face and neck will determine the actual pressure and flow of lymph. Many aestheticians use the ventuse suction in target areas, such as frown lines or wrinkling for lessening their appearance and improving circulation. The spray hose portion of the machine has a bottle attachment that may be filled with toners, floral waters, or other light refreshing tonics that finely mists the spray over the skin, rather than using a pump spray or toner sprayed on cotton pads and wiped onto the skin. 

There are many retakes, remakes, and revivals in products, tools, and equipment in abundance today with potentially new ways to augment services. The industry is rich in tradition etched with knowledge and experience from those professionals who paved the way. Perhaps the latest and greatest new thing is something that has been there all along just waiting to be discovered.

References 

1.Coleman, Drew, and Danné Montague-King. “Education Archives – DMK Skincare: Enzyme Therapy.” DMK Skincare | Enzyme Therapy, May 19, 2020. https://www.dannemking.com/category/education/. 

2.Hawthorne, Amy. “Ampoule Filling: The Evolution of the Ampoule.” ReAgent Chemical Services, May 25, 2020. https://www.reagent.co.uk/the-evolution-of-the-ampoule/. 

3.Bennett, James. “Embryo Extracts.” Cosmetics and Skin: Embryo Extracts, 2020. https://www.cosmeticsandskin.com/ded/embryo.php. 

4.Bennett, James. “Vacuum Suction.” Cosmetics and Skin: Vacuum Suction, 2018. https://www.cosmeticsandskin.com/bcb/vacuum.php. 

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Erin Madigan Fleck

 

Dr. Erin Madigan-Fleck is an educational icon known for her 35 plus years of experience and expertise in dermatological skin sciences, integrative aesthetics, and wellness. She is licensed in Georgia as a master cosmetologist, aesthetician, and aesthetic instructor. She is also a certified dermatology technician, lecturer, author, and national educator for the skin care industry. She holds national certification with the NCEA, Oncology Esthetics International, and as a natural health practitioner with Certified Natural Health Professionals. She received her naturopathic doctoral degree from the University of Science, Arts, and Technology College of Medicine and is a member of the American Society For Nutrition, International Association for Applied Corneotherapy, and the Society of Dermatological Skin Care Specialists. Dr. Madigan-Fleck is the CEO and owner of Naturophoria, established in 2000.

Supplement Savvy: The Role of Nutrition in Skin Health

The vitamins and nutrients obtained from foods represent the quintessential components for sustaining health and, ultimately, helping to contribute to healthy skin. There are many instances where elements of faulty digestion and environmental factors impact both the quality and quantity of nutrients obtained from foods. Vitamin supplements are a means of aiding in the support of imbalanced nutrients; however, they should never be substituted for critical nutrients supplied to the body by nutritious foods. The goal of consuming vitamin supplements is to augment nutritional status or support nutrient deficiencies in the ratios of vitamins, minerals and nutrients generally per the RDA and RDI daily allowances recommended by the Food and Drug Administration. Multivitamin mineral supplements were first introduced in the United States in the early 1940s and today represent an important and primary concept in nutritional wellness.

 

STUDIES AND REGULATIONS

There is no shortage of studies both for and against the use of vitamin supplements and nutraceuticals. One great area of concern is the safety of vitamin supplementation, as most countries place dietary supplements under the general umbrella of foods and not drugs. This passes the accountability of safety and efficacy of the vitamin supplements with the manufacturer. The Food and Drug Administration has defined many aspects of dietary supplements, including the categories of supplements, definitions, and a very clear statement advising consultation with a healthcare professional regarding consuming dietary supplements, as supplements may be harmful when taken improperly, with certain medications, surgery, diseases, and health conditions.3,4 The Dietary Supplement Health and Education Act of 1994 is a federal law that regulates the supplement industry regarding standards, scope of claims, and nomenclature for marketing the sale of supplements. The act is jointly shared by the FDA and the FTC. All guidelines regarding supplements fall into this jurisdiction, including the structure-function claim, which allows supplement manufacturers to promote their products as aids in supporting the health of particular physiological functions provided there is some scientific evidence to back the claim, of which requires evaluation by a trained healthcare practitioner in biochemistry, nutrition, diseases, nutritional supplementation sciences, and related health studies. The Center for Nutrition Advocacy supports nutritional and health practitioners who may recommend nutritional supplements by providing information on the Unites States regulatory guidelines concerning the practice of nutrition.

 

According to JAMA Internal Medicine (The Journal of the American Medical Association), there are over 90,000 different supplements and, unfortunately, reactions are possible as with any medicine or product consumed and ingested. An estimated 23,000 emergency room visits occur each year that are directly related to nutritional supplements, in combination with medications, overdosing of supplements, side effects, and allergic reactions. Between 2007 and 2016, the FDA identified 746 brands of supplements adulterated with pharmaceutical agents. The adulterants included prescription medications, unapproved pharmaceuticals, and designer steroids. Most supplements adulterated with drugs were marketed as weight loss, sports supplements, and other performance supplements.5 Vitamin supplements are compounds that are laboratory synthesized, whether they are derived from natural sources or synthetics.

 

Natural source vitamins deliver nutrients derived from food sources and are heavily processed before they can be made stable enough before distribution.

 

Nature-identical/synthetic vitamins are entirely synthetic, formulated in a lab using molecular structures that are identical to their natural counterparts. The majority of vitamins fall into this category.

 

Synthetic supplements are lab created and are not identical to their natural counterparts. They have the same chemical components but vary in their molecular shape.

 

Food cultured are derived from cultured foods, such as sauerkraut and yogurt. They are usually grown in algae or yeast and yield high bioavailability.

 

Food based supplements are compounded in a laboratory in a way that delivers natural nutrients without growing whole foods and extracting the nutrients from the food.

 

Bacterial fermentation are produced via the genetic manipulation of bacteria to produce nutritional byproducts.6

 

CLASSES OF SUPPLEMENTS

Multivitamins and Minerals: Multivitamins help to increase nutrient intake and assist with obtaining the recommended levels of vitamins and minerals when they cannot be met with foods alone for specific reasons. Although multivitamins can improve the intake adequacy of various nutrients, they can also increase the possibility of intake of other nutrients at levels that are higher and potentiate disproportionate imbalances. This factor is of concern when any supplements are consumed, whether they are multivitamins or single factor supplements (A or C). Base levels of nutrients should be determined by testing by a health professional to ensure that supplement consumption is not creating imbalances or the potential for imbalances or reactions.

 

Nutraceuticals: The term nutraceuticals is generally used to describe a hybrid of the word nutrition and pharmaceutical. They are products that are used to assist in the maintenance of normal physiological function and health. Although the use of nutraceuticals has a fairly long history, only recently scientifically supported nutritional and medical evidence has allowed nutraceuticals to emerge as being potentially effective.1

 

Fiber: One of the most important nutrients for the human body. Whole plant foods are rich in different types of fiber, such as pectin, gum, mucilage, cellulose, hemicellulose, lignin, and soluble fiber. The soluble components of dietary fiber have been shown to lower low-density lipoprotein cholesterol, improve glucose tolerance, and help to promote bulking and viscosity producing capabilities. Dietary fiber increases fecal bulking due to increased water retention and increases the growth of bifoidobacteria in the gut including fructooigosaccharides.1

 

Prebiotics: Prebiotics are dietary ingredients that are linked to the development of helpful bacteria for the digestive system. They accomplish this by beneficially altering the composition and metabolism of the gut microbiota by promoting lactobacillus and bifodobacteria. Prebiotics are short chain polysaccharides such as chicory roots, Jerusalem artichokes, garlic, onions, leeks, asparagus, bananas, oats, apples, cocoa, flax seeds, wheat bran, and seaweed. Prebiotics are most effective in their natural state when obtained from foods.

 

Probiotics: Probiotics number in the thousands of species of bacteria and yeasts found in fermented foods and specific species supplements. The effects of probiotics are to balance the ratio of the gut microbiota that includes bacteria, fungi, protozoa, and viruses that reside in the gastrointestinal tract.

 

Probiotics can colonize the human gut with a beneficial ratio of bacteria depending on the baseline microbiota, probiotic strain, and gastrointestinal tract region. Probiotics are identified and should be consumed by their specific strain, which includes the genus, the species, the subspecies, and strain designation. The seven core genera of microbial organisms most often used in probiotic products are lactobacillus, bifidobacterium, saccharomyces, streptococcus, enterococcus, escherichia, and bacillus. With regard to the skin, there has been an increase in the amount of research outlining the connection to the microflora of the skin and the gastrointestinal tract. Leaky gut syndrome, SIBO, and general digestive disorders have been connected to eczema, psoriasis, acne, dermatitis, rosacea, and even hives. Furthermore, skin infections and faulty microbial defense systems may lead to pathogenic and secondary infections.2

 

Fatty Acids: Essential fatty acids are functional components with regard to both the dermis and epidermis and are a form of polyunsaturated fats that cannot be synthesized by the human body and must be obtained from various and specific foods. An essential fatty acid deficiency can produce severe cutaneous abnormalities by affecting both function and appearance, including hyperproliferation of the epidermis, transepidermal water loss, and dermatitis. Transepidermal water loss is directly related to structural cell lipids and essential fatty acids – biochemical evidence of essential fatty acid deficiency can be determined from just a few days to weeks. Symptoms include dryness, scaling, flaking, itching, increased sensitivity, keratosis pilaris, and potential rashes.2

 

Enzymes: Enzymes are composed of amino acids and are released by the body to help catalyze many vital functions, including digestion, assimilation, and absorption of food. More than 3,000 different enzymes have been identified, each having a specific task to build and rebuild the body, including energy production, absorption of oxygen, and cellular nutrient transport. Digestive enzymes utilized in supplements have specific biochemical reactions with foods and gastric secretions to help assimilate digestion and the assimilation of nutrients.

 

Antioxidants: Antioxidant compounds occur naturally in many nutritious foods and are highly desirable in vitamin supplements because of their ability to fight free radicals and perform hundreds of functions in the human body. Although there are hundreds of antioxidants, five of them are cited as network antioxidants: vitamin C, E, glutathione, lipoic acid, and CoQ10. Antioxidants function and support each other as co-factors, recyclers, or reactors through a cohesive relationship called antioxidant synergism. Antioxidant synergism supports the scientific premise that the sum together provides better activities than by themselves.

 

Amino Acids: All metabolic processes are dependent on activity from various proteins formed from amino acids. Proteins fuel enzymes that assist in generating power for the body and rely on metabolic sequencing. Metabolic sequencing in cellular chemistry requires that cells possess an active yet specific enzyme to be in correct positioning, in order to coordinate sequencing of metabolic reactions from nutrients. There are more than 50 amino acids supplied by proteins, and typically 100 to 10,000 amino acids are linked together as chains to form structural units and fibrous proteins for the development of skin, tendons, bone, and muscle. One third of the protein content in the body is made up of collagen, which is the major fibrous protein found in the extracellular matrix and in connective tissue. Amino acid supplements are utilized to support critical deficiencies of amino acids evidenced in the body, such as catabolism, that may occur from the lack of protein intake in the diet. Amino acid supplements should not be consumed without professional guidance, as an excess intake may cause gout, unhealthy drop in blood pressure, and abdominal pain, and place undue stress on the kidneys.

 

Functional Foods: These are food products designed to be taken as part of the regular diet that have reportedly enhanced beneficial effects beyond that of normally consumed foods. They may have specific vitamins added, be fortified with additional nutrients, or may just have naturally occurring high nutrient levels. These specialized food products (as all supplements) need to comply with Federal Drug and Food Administration regulations for claims regulatory labeling and safety.

 

VITAMINS AND THE SKIN

Much of the role of nutrition in skin health focuses on the effects of deficiency, since the structural components of the skin have established requirements that instinctively are applied through nutritional intake. Assessing the physiology of the skin, we know that the epidermal layers do not contain blood vessels and that blood vessels are found in the dermis. The dermis receives nutrients through the bloodstream from the small intestine. Many nutrients also have factors that are not commonly known, such as molecular weight, and may have the ability to oxidize before they reach protein synthesis and the differentiation of keratinocytes. Unfortunately, while the skin is the largest organ of the body, it is the least of importance in terms of nutrient uptake, as the vital organs receive nutrients first (heart, liver, and brain). An impaired nutritional status alters the structural integrity and biological function of the skin, resulting in an abnormal skin barrier. The best options for the prospects of maintaining nutritional health of the skin is to continually maintain a steady intake and balance of all nutrients from foods. The key micronutrients for skin health are vitamins A, C, D, and E, zinc, copper, and selenium. While these may be available as single nutrient supplements, they are best utilized in a supplement complex with the proper ratios of combined nutrient co-factors, minerals, and vitamins in the product. In selecting supplements, there are always variables that impact whether they are effective for an individual and this includes hair, skin, and nail vitamins, protein and collagen powders, and other popular nutrient concepts. It is also important to remember that vitamin supplements should not be selected because they are trending but are selected because the body is indicating symptomology that additional nutrients are necessary. Herein lies both the safety and efficacy of supplementation by establishing a baseline nutrient level reading with a nutritionist or functional medicine practitioner. Consuming too much of a good thing can be instrumental in undesirable side effects, even though supplements are generally recognized as safe.

 

Here are very important supplement considerations:

  • The key process selected in the manufacturing of the supplement itself
  • Safety standards, laboratory certifications, and manufacturing ethics
  • Safety record and violations log of the manufacturer
  • Price point versus actual ingredient deck and formula
  • The isolation of the intended ingredients (quality, naturally derived, or synthetic, and so on)
  • The quantity of the efficacious nutrient in a single serving
  • The compound form (liquid, tablet, or capsule), as this impact’s absorption into the body
  • The addition of any extraneous materials and fillers to add bulk or weight to the product
  • The bioavailability of the supplement itself based on the absorption potential of the individual person
  • The baseline nutrient status of the person consuming the supplements
  • Consideration of all other supplements the individual is taking and ratios
  • Medications and health status – in particular the gastrointestinal tract

 

The most effective way to help maintain healthy skin is to consume plenty of well-balanced nutrients from foods. Be sure to include nutrient dense fruits and vegetables, sea vegetables, quality sources of proteins containing all of the amino acids, high-quality sources of fats and essential fatty acids, lots of fiber to help skin clarity, and, of course, plenty of water. Augmenting with vitamin supplements as necessary and rotating a professionally recommended supplement program will assist in creating skin health.

 

References

1 Das, Lipi, Eshani Bhaumik, Utpal Raychaudhuri, and Runu Chakraborty. “Role of nutraceuticals in human health.” Journal of Food Science and Technology 49, no. 2 (2012):173-183. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3550857/.

2 Madigan-Fleck, Erin. “Identifying Core Components in Skin Health.” DERMASCOPE. https://www.dermascope.com/ingredients/identifying-core-components-in-skin-health.

3 “FDA 101: Dietary Supplements.” FDA. https://www.fda.gov/consumers/consumer-updates/fda-101-dietary-supplements.

4 Incze, Michael. “Vitamins and Nutritional Supplements What Do I Need to Know?” JAMA Internal Medicine 179, no. 3 (2019): 460. https://jamanetwork.com/journals/jamainternalmedicine/fullarticle/2720139.

5 Cohen, Pieter A., Anita Wen, and Roy Gerona. “Prohibited Stimulants in Dietary Supplements After Enforcement Action by the US Food and Drug Administration.” JAMA Internal Medicine 178, no. 12 (2018): 1721-1723. https://jamanetwork.com/journals/jamainternalmedicine/article-abstract/2707947?widget=personalizedcontent&previousarticle=2720139.

6 “How are Vitamins Made From Scratch?” SMP. https://smpnutra.com/how-are-vitamins-made-from-scratch.

 

Erin Madigan FleckDr. Erin Madigan-Fleck, NMD, CDT, LMC, L.E.I., brings over 30 years of experience to the aesthetic and natural health industry. She is a licensed master cosmetologist and aesthetic instructor in Georgia and holds certification as a dermatology technician. She received her naturopathic medical doctoral degree from the University of Science, Arts, and Technology College of Medicine. She is the southeast director of the Association of Holistic Skin Care Practitioners and is the owner of DermaEducationTV post-graduate training for aestheticians, and private naturopathic and aesthetic practice in Atlanta, Georgia, Naturophoria.

 

Vitamins, Supplements, and Scope of Practice

Over 170 million Americans consume vitamin supplements regularly, with 17 percent focused on beauty and the skin. But, how effective are supplements, who can recommend them to the public, and to what extent?

 

Bioavailabilty is the complex transportation system of delivering nutrients throughout the body and is dependent on availability, retention, absorption, and utilization of those nutrients. Faulty absorption can impact the way nutrients are absorbed into the body and ultimately the skin – including supplements. It is important to consider that the skin does not have preferential treatment when it comes to nutrient absorption, as critical organs and key systems are the first to absorb nutrients and utilize them for life’s processes. Vitamins designed for the skin must first be absorbed systemically in order for them to be beneficial to the skin.

 

As supplements alone cannot supply all the crucial nutrients, co-factor enzymes, proteins, antioxidants, and so forth, proper nutrition should be considered the primary line of defense for the health and vitality of the skin. Supplements are designed to fine tune nutrient depletion or imbalances and are an adjunct to balanced nutrition. Bio-individual health status is also a critical factor in the recommendation of supplements, as certain vitamins can interact with various health conditions and may be contraindicated with specific medications.

 

The quality of the supplement should always be of great consideration. The brand name, type of processing, and form of the supplement influences the efficacy of the nutrient status and absorption. Another factor to consider is the extraneous material that may be used to fill the supplement – many inexpensive brands of supplements contain undesirable fillers such as mineral oil and even talc. Any lipid-based supplement should be high quality and refrigerated to prevent rancidity and oxidation. It is also important to consider the form of the supplement and which type is best absorbed: liquid, capsule, ascorbate, emulsion, or tablet.

 

When it comes to purity and bioavailability, the product should be free of specific contaminants and undesirable fillers, dissolve easily in the body, absorb well, and have the desired key potency. As for consistency, the tablet or capsules should have the identity, potency, and purity listed on the label and the dosage should be clearly identified.

 

Generally, aesthetic licensing supports providing education to clients as far as consuming healthy foods and generalizations as to consuming water and avoiding sugar and alcohol. This may be carried out within the scope of practice by providing the client with a fact information sheet or research paper which is non-specific to the individual’s health.

 

However, when prescriptive or directive language is used (“you need to take probiotics all the time” or “take 500 mg”), the context of the conversation changes into a directive and what is referred to as diagnostic language. The downside of this scenario is aestheticians are not licensed as health or nutritional professionals and are practicing out of scope of practice, in most states. as the standard aesthetician’s license has no nomenclature as to prescribing nutrition or acting as a nutritional consultant.

 

So, professionals should educate clients simply on the skin benefits of certain vitamins, generally, as well as key facts about bioavailability, quality, and form of supplements, but should be careful not to diagnose or prescribe.

Psoriasis: Evolution, Identification, and Intervention

Historically, psoriasis was not always understood or treated effectively. Although treatments and attitudes towards the disease have evolved, those living with the disease still endure much difficulty. Today, understanding the history, clinical types, contributing factors, and available treatments of psoriasis can help professionals provide relief to clients who may be suffering from it.

Cinnamon

Cinnamon is perhaps one of the most frequently used spices in the world for its wide appeal, from its us in culinary arts to assisting in the control of high blood pressure. This plant and its counterparts have been studied, praised, and esteemed for centuries and its exploration is as vast as its uses and accolades. Its botanical genealogy hails from the evergreen species of the Lauraceae tree. The inner bark of this tree yields the harvest that is grown for two years before coppicing (cutting the stems at ground level). The bark is then peeled off from the tree into strips to dry and formed into what is called “quills.” Quills are the rolled two-to-four inch “cinnamon sticks” in the curled form of cinnamon that most are familiar with.

Cooling Trends: Cryotherapy

Cryotherapy is the use of extremely cold temperatures used primarily to treat inflammation and injuries, however, it has been purported to treat a wide variety of skin and health conditions, as well.

Identifying Core Components in Skin Health

Nutritional and dermatological research has demonstrated that specific and key nutrients are required to ensure the physiological functioning and overall health of the skin. This factor is well recognized by nutritional professionals, along with the premise that simply consuming a balanced diet may not always ensure optimum nutritional status with anticipated benefits or results. Within the realm of nutritional information, there remains one focal determinant of nutrition that is constant no matter the opinion, philosophy, or mindset.

Drugs and Their Effects on the Skin

A study published by the Journal of the American Medical Association concluded that the prevalence of prescription drug use in America among people 20 years of age and older had risen to 59 percent in 2012 from 51 percent just 12 years earlier. During the same period, the percentage of people taking five or more prescription drugs nearly doubled from eight to 15 percent.1 Another study cites the United States as consuming 75 percent of the world's prescription drugs.2

Infinite Treasures: Highlights in Aesthetic History

The topic of aesthetics and skin in general is well chronicled throughout industry textbooks, blogs, fashion magazines, videos, and more. The history surrounding beauty dates back to 10,000 B.C.E.; some of the original components from ancient formulas, such as olive oil, lavender, and chamomile, are still popular today.

Finding Beauty in the Balance: Essential Components for Health and Wellness

By virtue of their extensive training, skin care professionals are confirmed ambassadors of beauty, skin health, and general wellness. The natural health community's impressive impact on the skin care industry is evidenced by the variety of aesthetic product lines that now offer wellness merchandise such as nutrient waters, nutraceutical serums, vegetable facial masks, vitamin supplements, and even collagen candy chews.

What’s your recipe for treating clients with sensitive skin?

A primary consideration regarding skin sensitivities is the possibility of underlying internal factors that may provoke inflammation, such as medications and allergies. These factors often equate to both acute and chronic skin sensitization. A thorough consultation and a detailed skin analysis, via a Wood's lamp, hydration level meter, and other evaluation devices, are vital tools to assist in establishing the level or degree of sensitivity.

Chamomile

Throughout history, chamomile has been synonymous with healing, purity, and beauty. The earliest use of the herb was recorded in 1550 B.C.E., as evidenced in one of history's most important medical volumes, Eber's Papyrus. Its medical use dates back to medical antiquity when the early physicians, such as Hippocrates, Galen, and Asclepius, made use of it in their natural healing methods and prescriptions. The Egyptians dedicated chamomile to the gods, believing that it emulated the sun and would cure malaria. It was also widely used as a cure for fever, as a main ingredient in embalming oils for its ability to repel insects, and was highly prized as a cosmetic by the Romans. Chamomile is one of the nine sacred herbs of the Lacnunga, an ancient Anglo-Saxon herbal manuscript that was recorded in the 10th century. In medieval times, the petals were used for fragrance ambiance and used during rituals and ceremonies.

Observance of Wound Healing in the Aesthetic Setting

The skin periodically encounters a variety of incursions and, within its extraordinary capacity for surveillance, is able to initiate its defense systems at a moment’s notice to fight infection and initiate healing. The intricate relationship that the skin has with the body represents a complex network of communication via the entire integumentary structure: nervous system (neurons for sensory function), immune system (healing response and defenses), circulatory system (surface capillaries and oxygenation), and the digestive system. The digestive system has both the ability and capacity to provide sustenance and, as such, represents the threshold of the skin’s potential to initiate nutrition-transcription factors for healing.

Pelotherapy Primer

Pelotherapy is defined as the therapeutic application of clay (mud), specifically through clay baths or localized applications called “peloids.”

10 Things About... Aromatherapy

The allure and mystique of aromatherapy has captured the senses, heart, and human spirit for centuries. It has been said that every flower is a soul blossoming in nature. The majestic floral and botanical creations of nature have yielded hundreds upon hundreds of fragrant essences – while providing just as many therapeutic benefits.

April 2024

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