Applying lipstick and nail polish has long been recognized as the easiest way to add a bit of color. However, if social media is used as a barometer, eye color products are taking over as the most popular form of makeup. While most people have an understanding of what each product does, they may not understand the best application techniques for their unique eye shape. In order to customize an approach that addresses a client’s beauty concerns, industry professionals must take each unique feature into consideration.
Almond eyes: Accent this perfect eye shape by concentrating a warm, mid-tone to the crease.
Round eyes: Blending the shadow beyond the outer corners of the eyes will lengthen this shape. Create a cat eye with liquid eyeliner to further elongate the eye.
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Close-set eyes: Create space by applying a highlighter color to the inner corners of the eyes, near the bridge of the nose. Adding a few individual eyelashes to the outer third of the eye will draw attention outward.
Slanted mono-lid: Rather than attempting to create a cut crease, it is best to concentrate color along the eyelash line by blending upward towards the crease. Highlight the eyebrow bone to create more dimension.
Full eyes: Minimize the most prominent part of the eye by concentrating the deepest shadow color at the center of the eyelid, carrying it just past the crease.
Small eyes: To make small eyes appear larger, extend the lightest shadow slightly above the upper eyelash line.
COMPLIMENTARY COLORS
Before considering what goes where, a makeup artist must first select the right color palette. When professionals are just starting out, using a color wheel can be very helpful. Simply select the client’s eye color then move along the wheel to the color lying directly opposite their eye color; this color is the complimentary color. Accomplished professionals are able to select shades that accent their client’s skin and hair, as well. For example, if a client has blue eyes, professionals could opt for an orange-based eye shadow. However, if they also have cool, blue-black hair, a plum shade in the red-violet range would accent the hair color best. Every client actually has a range of colors that would suit them.
CHOOSING EYESHADOW COLOR
ACCORDING TO EYE COLOR
Blue: For clients with blue eyes, choose an orange, yellow, red, or gold color (peach, copper, mauve, and plum).
Green: For clients with green eyes, use red tones with brown, orange, or violet (copper, rust, pink, plum, mauve, and purple).
Brown: Clients with brown eyes can wear any color (green, blue, gray, and silver).
COORDINATING BLUSH AND LIPSTICK
When coordinating eye shadow, blush, and lipstick colors, neutral tones are always safe, but may not be the most fun. Try complimenting the client’s personality instead. Simply refer to the color wheel to confirm that the cheek and lip makeup is in the same color family.
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