Chronic stress is increasingly becoming ingrained in day-to-day life. Many forms of stress are tolerated in many societies, but the health consequences of stress are not. Stress has the appearance of an unwelcome guest who is always present. Despite many research articles linking stress to a variety of diseases, it is frequently ignored as a culprit when skin problems arise. Skin issues directly related to the gut and skin are gaining attention. 

PHYSIOLOGY OF STRESS 

More than 100 billion neurons make up the brain. These neurons communicate by sending chemicals, neurotransmitters, and hormones. During communication, an estimated 11 million messages can be processed within a single second.1 Interestingly, the brain can also anticipate or predict certain outcomes of missing pieces.2 A primary nerve involved in stress messages is the vagus nerve.  

References 

1. Mahmud, R., Akter, S., Tamanna, S. K., Mazumder, L., Esti, I. Z., Banerjee, S., Akter, S., Hasan, R., Acharjee, M., Hossain, S., & Pirttilä, A. M. (2022). Impact of gut microbiome on skin health: Gut-skin axis observed through the lenses of Therapeutics and skin diseases. Gut Microbes, 14(1). https://doi.org/10.1080/19490976.2022.2096995  

1. Khmaladze, I., Leonardi, M., Fabre, S., Messaraa, C., & Mavon, A. (2020). The skin interactome: A holistic “genome-microbiome-exposome” approach to understand and modulate skin health and aging. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, Volume 13, 1021–1040. https://doi.org/10.2147/ccid.s239367  

1. Dong, K., Goyarts, E. C., Pelle, E., Trivero, J., & Pernodet, N. (2019). Blue light disrupts the circadian rhythm and create damage in skin cells. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 41(6), 558–562. https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12572  

1. Saif, G. A., Alotaibi, H. M., Alzolibani, A. A., Almodihesh, N. A., Albraidi, H. F., Alotaibi, N. M., & Yosipovitch, G. (2018). Association of psychological stress with skin symptoms among medical students. Saudi Medical Journal, 39(1), 59–66. https://doi.org/10.15537/smj.2018.1.21231  

For the development of healthy, functional skin, the hormones, melatonin and cortisol are critical, but how can skin care professionals detect when they go off course? What skin issues are brought on by excessive cortisol levels or a melatonin deficiency? It is important to understand the essential functions of cortisol and melatonin to provide insight into healthy functioning skin. 

References

1. Kresser, C. (2019, October 10). What really causes oxidative damage?. Kresser Institute. https://kresserinstitute.com/what-really-causes-oxidative-damage/ 

1. Tarocco, A., Caroccia, N., Morciano, G., Wieckowski, M. R., Ancora, G., Garani, G., & Pinton, P. (2019). Melatonin as a master regulator of cell death and inflammation: Molecular mechanisms and clinical implications for newborn care. Cell Death & Disease, 10(4). https://doi.org/10.1038/s41419-019-1556-7 

1. Reiter, R., Tan, D., Rosales-Corral, S., Galano, A., Zhou, X., & Xu, B. (2018). Mitochondria: Central organelles for melatonin′s antioxidant and anti-aging actions. Molecules, 23(2), 509. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules23020509 

1. Kauppila, T. E. S., Kauppila, J. H. K., & Larsson, N.-G. (2017). Mammalian mitochondria and aging: An update. Cell Metabolism, 25(1), 57–71. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.cmet.2016.09.017 

1. Poljšak, B., & Dahmane, R. (2012). Free radicals and extrinsic skin aging. Dermatology Research and Practice, 2012. https://doi.org/10.1155/2012/135206 

1. Silva, S. A., Michniak-Kohn, B., & Leonardi, G. R. (2017). An overview about oxidation in clinical practice of skin aging. Anais Brasileiros de Dermatologia, 92(3), 367–374. https://doi.org/10.1590/abd1806-4841.20175481 

1. Poljšak, Borut & Dahmane, Raja & Godic, Aleksandar. (2012). Intrinsic skin aging: The role of oxidative stress. Acta dermatovenerologica Alpina, Panonica, et Adriatica. 2012;21:1-4. 1-4. 10.2478/v10162-012-0012-5. 

1. Reiter, R. J., Tan, D. X., Kim, S. J., & Cruz, M. H. (2014). Delivery of pineal melatonin to the brain and SCN: Role of Canaliculi, cerebrospinal fluid, tanycytes and Virchow–Robin Perivascular Spaces. Brain Structure and Function, 219(6), 1873–1887. https://doi.org/10.1007/s00429-014-0719-7 

Stress is widely acknowledged as a link between healthy and unhealthy individuals. Additionally, numerous reports show stress to have a direct impact on the gut, brain, and immune system.1 However, limited research is available concerning cortisol, a hormone produced in response to stress, and its effects on skin.  

Over the last several years, sheet masks have gained popularity in both professional treatments and home usage. The increase in popularity has led to an abundance of sheet masks being rapidly produced to increase product and service offerings.  

In the world of sheet masks, many options are available, but there exists a wide variance in the quality of the masks depending on the technology, structure, production, and ingredients. To understand these variances, it is essential to understand the different types.  

 Sheet masks provide more tools to give the usual skin care routine a boost. They are easy to utilize, results are visible immediately after removal, and they are generally inexpensive. Technological advances in the production of sheet masks are rapidly changing to provide the most advanced result-driven treatments. 

Susan Wade joined Viktoria De’Ann in 2015 as the director of education and sales after working in the health and education industry for over 30 years. She holds a Masters in Higher Education, is a licensed aesthetician and is currently completing her license in functional medicine. Wade taught Kinesiology courses for 12 years at Boise State University, along with owning and operating a sports training business working closely with physicians, physical therapists, faculty members, and athletes. Her passion lies in learning about the complexities of physiology, nutrition, and cellular functions coupled with peptide science, and she enjoys sharing her knowledge in a simple and applicable format.  

Peptides have become an increasingly popular ingredient for both natural and effective skin revision, wound healing, and compromised skin barriers. The high demand for more natural, non-invasive products has escalated rapidly in the last five years. This demand has shifted the industry to provide a broad-spectrum of peptides. This article will focus predominately on bioactive peptides and how this class of peptides work in alignment with cellular communication and is effective for improving many skin conditions.

The American Medical Dictionary’s definition of peptides is “Any member or class of compounds of low molecular weight that yield two or more amino acids on hydrolysis.”¹ Peptides are also described as dipeptides, tripeptides, and tetrapeptides. depending upon the number of amino acids in the molecule. Simply stated, peptides are a chain of two or more amino acids chemically bonded together to work directly with the cells.

BIOACTIVE PEPTIDES

Bioactive peptides are considered the highest standard of peptides because of efficacy and their ability to function with the biological system of the body. In biology, to be considered bioactive, four rules must be met. These rules are:

1. It must meet threshold requirement
2. the correct message must be transferred
3. it must fit into the biological feedback loop
4. it must be received to the target cells

Let’s examine each of these rules individually to understand the term, bioactive.

To meet threshold requirements, a stimulus must produce a result. Many stimuli occur in the body, but not all are effective or elicit a change in the cells. The precise dosage or higher concentration of the stimulus is required to produce a result or change in the targeted cell. Logically, the higher the concentration, the higher the response rate or change that will occur. An example would be medications. The higher the dosage – the better the result.

The correct message implies that precise communication is needed. Cells function optimally when communication occurs on a regular basis. If communication is disrupted, misinterpreted, or ceased cells will not function properly, therefore, cells identify with a specific language to their own.

PEPTIDES AND MESSAGING

For example, peptide activity begins in the transference of DNA to RNA. At the early stage of activity, DNA is transcribed to RNA. During this stage, RNA is transcribed and transferred into amino acids. Amino acids are then joined by a chemical bond, forming a peptide. Peptides proceed to provide messages to cells; therefore, peptides are naturally programmed in our cellular network. Our complex cellular system is designed to produce a highly functioning organization. It is possible for the smallest peptide (a pair) to form a large, interconnected network of communication within the cells. This direct communication allows the cells to receive a correct and identifiable message.

An example of this type of messaging would be human communication. When just two people are communicating, the message is understood and is usually not distorted. However, when several people are involved in delivering a message, it becomes unclear and distorted. Communication is most clear when the distance is shorter and fewer interferences are involved.

BIOFEEDBACK LOOP

The biofeedback loop is best illustrated as a course of functions that occur beginning from one destination and transferred to another successfully. An example of a biofeedback loop would be when T₃ or T₄ levels of the thyroid that are out of balance or lack homeostasis. This loop is initiated in a section of the brain, the hypothalamus. The hypothalamus releases a hormone called thyrotropin releasing hormone (TRH). Thyrotropin releasing hormone travels to the anterior pituitary which then releases thyroid-stimulating hormone (TSH) to the thyroid. The thyroid releases hormones, T₃ and T₄ concentrations in the blood to restore homeostasis. Homeostasis occurs if normal T₃ and T₄ concentrations and normal body temperature are present. If T₃ and T₄ concentration levels are low or the body temperature is too low, homeostasis does not occur. The loop continues until homeostasis is achieved.

Bioactive peptides must be received by the target cells to be effective. Bioactive peptides are naturally occurring in the body. Example of natural peptide messages would be oxytocin (stimulates contractions during labor), insulin (regulate blood glucose to the muscles), bradykinin (inhibits inflammation of tissues), neurotransmitter that controls nerve impulses, and enkephalins (assists with pain control). A small peptide (thyrotropin releasing hormone) communicates the precisive balance for metabolism.

Bioactive peptides provide many opportunities for optimal skin health. Bioactive peptides provide many functions to cells and organs. Some of these functions include signaling the fibroblast cells, assisting the mitochondria to produce energy, repairing and enhancing natural defense mechanisms, assisting healing processes, and modulating enzymes during melanogenesis.

As the demand for natural yet effective active ingredients increase, bioactive peptides provide a precise, targeted, and effective tool for skin revision and rejuvenation.

References

1. American Medical Dictionary, www.americanmedicaldictionary/peptides

Susan Wade is a licensed aesthetician joining Viktoria De’Ann Peptide Cosmeceuticals in 2015 as the director of education and sales after being in the health and education industry for over 18 years. She has a master’s in higher education administration and enjoys sharing her wealth of knowledge with physicians, clinicians, and students nationwide. Wade has a diverse background beyond aesthetics as a college instructor in kinesiology and business, is an owner of a successful sports conditioning business, and is a nutrition coach. Her passion lies in understanding the complexities of physiology, nutrition, and biology and educating practitioners how to incorporate these areas to reach better solutions and successful results with their clients.

Vitamins and peptides play an important role in the normal biochemical functions of the skin and body. To promote the function of healthy skin, many aestheticians are looking for natural ingredients. This article will address the role of peptides and vitamin B complexes (thiamine, riboflavin, niacin, pantothenic acid, pyridoxine, biotin, folate, and cobalamin) to increase the healthy function of cells. First, it is important to understand the key players and their function.

A BRIEF OVERVIEW OF THE B VITAMINS

 Thiamine (B1) is a coenzyme necessary for energy production and assists in the synthesis of DNA and RNA. If deficient in this vitamin, one may experience burning feet sensations, weakness in extremities, rapid heart rate, swelling, and fatigue.

 Riboflavin (B2) is a cofactor involved in redox (short for reduction oxidation) reactions. Redox reactions are a chemical process that take place when an exchange of electrons occurs. This vitamin supports normal vision and skin health but is easily degraded by sunlight. Deficiency in this vitamin is manifest through cheilosis (inflammation of lips and mouth sores), itchy eyes, and poor eye health.

Niacin (B3) has become extremely popular in skin care products because of its significant role in the Krebs cycle. Niacin contributes to the electron transporter, nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD contributes in the catabolism of fat, carbohydrates, protein, and alcohol. NAD assists in DNA repair, facilitates cellular signaling, and helps to control cholesterol levels by facilitating in the lipid synthesis of the liver.² Interestingly, niacinamide is synthesized naturally in the human body from an amino acid, tryptophan. The human brain, skin, and gut require high energy levels and are usually the most susceptible to a niacin deficiency.² Other signs of deficiency will manifest through lack of energy, excess fatigue, and loss of memory.

Pantothenic acid (B5) is a component of coenzyme A (energy production during Krebs cycle) and assists in synthesis of cholesterol, steroid hormones, and neurotransmitters.⁴ If a client is deficient in this vitamin, dermatitis and alopecia may manifest on the surface of the skin.

Pyridoxine (B6) is critical for the formation of red blood cells. This vitamin is often prescribed as a supplement to treat tuberculosis.¹ Pyridoxine is also important in the metabolism of protein and is vital for maintaining a healthy nervous system, skin, muscles, and blood. Pyridoxine is involved with the conversion of the omega-6 essential fatty acids, which play an important role in hormonal health.

Biotin (B7) is a vitamin essential for the metabolism of proteins, fats, and carbohydrates and contributes to keratin formation and health.

Folate (B9) is necessary for the production and maintenance of new cells, the synthesis of DNA and RNA, especially during periods of infancy and pregnancy. Deficiency in folate may include lack of energy, periods of heart palpitations, shortness of breath, changes in color of the skin and hair, and open sores on the tongue.

Cobalamin (B12) is involved in the metabolism of every cell of the body. It is also a cofactor of DNA synthesis, fatty acid and amino acid metabolism. One important role of cobalamin is the synthesis of myelin in the nervous system.² Deficiencies in this vitamin can potentially cause severe and irreversible damage, especially to the brain and nervous system.³ Symptoms of B12 deficiency may include: fatigue, lethargy, difficulty walking (staggering balance problems), depression, poor memory, breathlessness, headaches, and pale skin.

FUNCTIONAL SKIN AND PEPTIDES

Peptides are crucial to almost all biological actions in the body and to carry out many important functions. Scientists found human cells thrive in a system of communication instead of isolation. One of the main function of peptides is to communicate in the correct language to cells. When cells receive a message, the task can then be performed. The peptide message must be recognized and received by the desired receptor of the cell. In other words, it must be bioavailable.

 It is important to mention that the human body functions best during homeostasis and works diligently to achieve this state. Peptides and the B vitamin complexes provide a unique tool for aestheticians desiring to incorporate natural, functional skin care products to fight against accelerated aging and many skin abnormalities.

References

1 Lykstad, Jacqueline and Sandeep Sharma. “Biochemistry, Water Soluable Vitamins.” NCBI

Bookshelf, National Library of Medicine, National Institutes of Health. Feb. 2019.

2 Wikipedia. S.v. “B vitamins.” Last modified 15 September 2019.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/B_vitamins.

3 “Skin & Light.” Glossary.com.

4 Berardi, John and Ryan Andrews. “The Essential of Sport and Exercise Nutrition, 2nd Ed.”

Precision Nutrition, 2015.

Susan Wade is a licensed aesthetician joining Viktoria De’Ann in 2015 as the director of education and sales after being in the health and education industry for over 18 years. She has a master’s in higher education administration and enjoys sharing her wealth of knowledge with physicians, clinicians, and students nationwide. Wade has a diverse background beyond aesthetics as a college instructor in kinesiology and business and is an owner of a successful sports conditioning business’ and a nutrition coach. Her passion lies in understanding the complexities of physiology, nutrition, and biology and in educating practitioners on how to incorporate these areas to reach better solutions and successful results with their clients.

Wound healing is a common concern for most aestheticians. To treat these conditions successfully, many modalities and products are marketed to provide the professional with tools. However, it is imperative to understand the natural wound healing process and how to effectively treat these conditions. This article will review the five phases of wound healing, explore how peptides work in conjunction with the healing process, and provide an effective tool for scarring, inflammatory skin conditions, and wound repair. One study found that wounds of the skin remain challenging in the clinical treatment settings, but bioactive peptides are the potential therapeutic treatment.¹

THE STAGES OF WOUND HEALING

 There are five overlapping stages in skin repair during wound healing. The first stage is hemostasis. Hemostasis is defined as the clot formation or the interruption of blood flow. Hemostasis takes place immediately and lasts hours after the injury. The earliest signal of tissue injury is the release of adenosine triphosphate and the exposure of collagen on the blood vessel wall.² During this phase, a clot is formed that acts as a temporary barrier to prevent excess bleeding and limits the spread of pathogens into the blood stream. The clot is formed by a collagen receptor known as glycoproteins. This is the first stage of fibrin formation. Fibrin is a fibrous, non-globular protein involved in forming a clot.³

Inflammation is the next stage and occurs within hours and last several days after the initial wound. During inflammation, a mixture of injured tissue, platelets, erythrocytes, and fibrin, as well as other foreign material, is introduced. Neutrophils are the first responders and migrate to the injured site. Neutrophils’ role is to digest foreign debris and kill bacteria. This lasts for about 24 to 48 hours if decontamination is complete. Macrophage, mast cells, histamines, and other cytokines are other first responders. Macrophages work on removing foreign debris. Mast cells are responsible for the release of histamines to begin the process of cytokine reactions. Histamines are released to enhance blood vessel permeability and to enhance macrophage migration. Monocytes are healing cells and travel to the site to begin the cellular proliferation stage.²

The cellular proliferation and migration stage begin after inflammation and last until wound closure or until a signal to cease is received. Fibroplasia and angiogenesis are co-dependent and must be successfully completed in order to form an evolving extracellular matrix and granulation tissue. The relationship relies on reciprocity between cellular components, matrix proteins, and bioactive molecules.⁴ The healing or restoration (re-epithelialization) begins 24 to 48 hours as injured keratinocytes detach from the basal layer and produce matrix metalloproteinases attaching to fibronectin and integrins. Fibronectins and integrins are proteins of the extracellular matrix and attach to collagen. However, if the basal layer is damaged by a wound and portions of the dermis are lost, the wound cannot heal by re-epithelialization alone. Fibroblasts are activated and begin to proliferate after three to four days.² The fibroblasts begin to rebuild the dermis with the formation of the peptides, proteins hyaluronan, and growth factors. Concurrently, the keratinocyte begins to move closer to the wound.

 Following the proliferation phase is contraction. Collagen and elastin fibers are contracting and begin to shrink the wound and the remodeling process has begun. Re-epithelialization has been completed.

The remodeling phase is the last and longest phase. This phase may last several weeks to years to complete. The forces between the fibroblasts create tension, which enhances wound closure. It is important to note that hair follicles, sweat glands, and sebaceous glands lost during injury are not regenerated. Type 1 collagen is replaced by type 3 collagen to rebuild the dermal matrix. Studies have reported that only 80% of the strength of the original skin is regained.⁵

HOW DO PEPTIDES INFLUENCE WOUND HEALING?

In adults, fibroblasts rarely undergo division within connective tissues, unless stimulated by a wound healing process or inflammatory response.⁵ Collagen must first be produced by the fibroblast and progress through several stages. Bioavailable peptides are compatible with the cellular proliferation and threshold requirements of cells. Essentially, peptides can provide a message to the fibroblast cell, essentially stimulating collagen without wounding the dermis or epidermis.

Bioavailable peptides play a pivotal role in restoring skin integrity at each layer of wound healing. Peptides are natural messengers that initiate cellular activity and aid in the communication of cytokine signaling, fibroblast, and glycosaminoglycan proliferation. Fibroblast stimulation through peptide communication is an effective tool for the aesthetician to implement for extracellular matrix remodeling or replacement of collagen, without injuring the dermis or epidermis.

References    

1 Song, Y., C. Wu, X. Zhang, W. Bian, N. Liu, S. Yin, M. Yang, J. Tang, and X. Yang. “A short peptide potentially promotes the healing of skin wound.” Biosci Rep 39, no. 3 (2019).

2 Stroncek, John D.  and W. Monty Reichert. “Chapter 1 Overview of Wound Healing in Different Tissue Types.” Indwelling Neural Implants.

3 Wikipedia, s.v. “Fibrin,” last modified March 19, 2019, www.wikipedia.org/wiki/fibrin.

4 Greaves, N.S., K.J. Ashcroft, M. Baguneid, and A. Bavat. “Current understanding of molecular and cellular mechanisms in fibroplasia and angiogenesis during acute wound healing.” J Dermatol Sci 72, no. 3 (2013): 206-17.

5 Viktoria De’Ann Peptide Cosmeceuticals. viktoriadeann.com.

Susan Wade is a licensed aesthetician joining Viktoria De’Ann in 2015 as the director of education and sales after being in the health and education industry for over 18 years. She has a master’s in higher education administration and enjoys sharing her wealth of knowledge with physicians, clinicians, and students nationwide. Wade has a diverse background beyond aesthetics as a college instructor in kinesiology and business and is an owner of a successful sports conditioning business’ and a nutrition coach. Her passion lies in understanding the complexities of physiology, nutrition, and biology and in educating practitioners on how to incorporate these areas to reach better solutions and successful results with their clients.

The phenomenon of aging and the concept of expanding the human lifespan has thrived over the last several decades. The quest for a more youthful appearance has infiltrated research for several generations. The primary causes for accelerated cellular damage or aging were mostly found to be a result of reactive oxidative stress, over-exposure to ultraviolet rays, environmental factors (pollution and toxins), and illnesses. However, further research has provided a deeper understanding to the causes of aging, which includes telomere shortening and cellular senescence. This article will discuss the science of cellular senescence, the role of telomeres, and how peptides are able to assist the cells to decelerate the aging process.

THE SCIENCE OF CELLUAR SENESCENCE

Cellular senescence is defined as the cells’ limited capacity of proliferation.¹ The term cellular senescence encompasses apoptosis and the declining ability of cellular communication with other cells. Why does this happen? Scientists have discovered many answers to this question; however, further research is needed to understand the full capacity of this phenomenon. One viable answer was discovered by a scientist, Leonard Hayflick, in the mid-1960s.

In 1965, Dr. Hayflick discovered that normal human fetal cells divide between 40 and 60 times before entering the senescence phase. His finding refuted the contention that cells are immortal.² Dr. Hayflick discovered that during cell mitosis, the telomeres on the end of the chromosomes strands shorten slightly, which contributed to overall aging. He identified three phases of life of normal cultured cells: phase one, the primary culture, phase two, the cells proliferate, and phase three, after months of doubling, the cell replication rate slows before halting altogether.² Subsequently, Hayflick’s finding was coined Hayflick Limit Theory of Aging or, more commonly, the Hayflick Effect.

Dr. Hayflick was the first to report that only cancer cells were immortal. He found cancer cells do not develop cellular senescence due to an enzyme called telomerase. The function of telomerase is to extend the telomeres. If telomeres are extended and not shortened, the cancer cells have the ability to replicate indefinitely.²

TELOMERES AND CELLULAR SENESCENCE

Telomeres are small segments found at the end of chromosome strands that shorten when cells divide. Their primary role is to preserve the DNA during cellular replication.¹ When telomeres shorten, the cell stops reproducing or dividing. Many research findings report telomeres in longer length may extend the lifespan of DNA, allowing the strand to be replicated more times than usual.

PEPTIDES’ INFLUENCE ON CELLULAR SENESCENCE

Critical information of cells is stored in the DNA. Without telomeres, chromosomes may fuse together, causing genetic instability. In order to launch protein synthesis, genes have to be activated by triggering molecules or peptides.¹ Some peptides match specific parts in the cell’s DNA, following the lock-key principle. As a result, the peptide resumes the synthesis of the protein from which it was originally built. As proteins age, they become fragmented into the original peptide. This is part of the biological feedback loop and is vital to cell life.¹

The mitochondria also play a critical role in energy production, metabolism, and cellular signaling.³ Bioavailable peptides have the ability to signal the mitochondria and assist with cellular proliferation.

Peptides function as specific messengers and are able to assist with energy production or signal cytokines during inflammation. Some bioavailable peptides have the ability to respond to cellular stress and have a range of protective effects. Signaling pathways and cell receptors are identified by the peptides. According to an article published in Aging, peptides assist cells in function, block apoptosis, decrease inflammation, and reduce oxidative stress.³ In summary, bioactive peptides have the ability to align with the natural pathways of the cells to support telomere length.

References

1 Harle-Bachor, C. and P. Boukamp. “Telomerase activity in the regenerative basal layer of the epidermis in human skin and in immortal and carcinoma-derived skin keratinocytes.” Proc. Natl. Acad. Sci. 93 (1996): 6476-648.

2 Wikipedia. 2019. “Hayflick limit.” Last modified 20 June 2019. www.wikipedia.org/wiki/hayflick_limit.

3 Su-Jeong, Kim, Hermal Mehta, Junxiang Wan, et al. Aging 10, no. 6 (2018): 1239-1256.

Susan Wade is a licensed aesthetician joining Viktoria De’Ann in 2015 as the director of education and sales after being in the health and education industry for over 18 years. She has a master’s in higher education administration and enjoys sharing her wealth of knowledge with physicians, clinicians, and students nationwide. Wade has a diverse background beyond aesthetics as a college instructor in kinesiology and business and is an owner of a successful sports conditioning business’ and a nutrition coach. Her passion lies in understanding the complexities of physiology, nutrition, and biology and in educating practitioners on how to incorporate these areas to reach better solutions and successful results with their clients.

The skin is considered to be its own ecosystem that includes bacteria, fungi, and viruses. This system plays a crucial role in the balancing of pathogenic (bad) bacteria, as well as protecting the commensal (good) bacteria. This article will explore types of skin bacteria and their role in the skin’s microflora and microbiome systems, as well as examine how antimicrobial peptides play a superior role in successfully treating acne.

Let’s begin with an overview of the formation and causes of acne.  Acne is a disorder of the pilosebaceous unit, which consists of the hair and its follicle, the arrector pili muscles and the sebaceous gland. What causes this disorder? The dead cells (corneocytes and keratinocytes) shed into the hair follicle instead of desquamating to the stratum corneum. This causes a buildup and

eventually forms a plug, blocking oxygen from entering the pore, creating an anaerobic environment. Bacteria thrives in this anaerobic environment. The dead keratinocytes combined with sebum and other cellular fluids also create a food source for this bacterium, as well as a protection against the immune system. Propionibacterium (P.acnes) then migrates and proliferates under the plug creating a pustule and inflammation. Sebaceous glands are connected to the hair follicle and produce sebum which support growth by providing food to P.acnes bacteria. This type of bacteria is a common skin commensal bacterium. Bacteria is able to adhere to the sebum and promote colonization and growth.¹ Hormonal influences are also known to increase sebaceous activity.

MICROFLORA, MICROBIOME, AND BACTERIA

The terms microflora and microbiome are used interchangeably. Microbiome is the population of microorganisms and microflora refers to bacteria and microscopic algae and fungi. The Human Microbiome Project has provided new research concerning digestion, health, and the microbiome, but the relationship between skin and the associated microbiome is in the initial discovery phase. The microflora and microbiome are diverse, not only from person to person,

but even from one part of the body to another.

As the largest organ in the human body, the skin consists of many types of good and bad bacteria forming the microbiome. This microflora and microbiome protect from many foreign invaders and toxic substances. According to the authors of The Skin Microbiome, “microorganisms (viruses, bacteria, and fungi) and mites cover the surface of the skin and reside deep in the hair and glands. On the surface, bacteria, such as proteobacteria and staphylococcus form communities that are deeply intertwined among themselves and other microorganisms.” All of these microorganisms collectively form the microflora.

Bacteria can be classified into two major groups: gram-negative and gram-positive. Gram-negative bacteria are found to be resistant to antibiotics, whereas gram-positive bacteria are more reactive to this treatment. Many skin care companies are jumping into the microbiome popularity bandwagon by producing ingredients that attempt to restore the skin’s microflora. One such ingredient is black bee honey-derived and fermented with zymomonas mobilis bacteria, intended to stabilize and promote the skin’s microbiome.³

BACTERIA GROWTH: QUORUM SENSING

Bacteria grows in strength and numbers by communicating with one another using chemical signal molecules. This entails producing, releasing, detecting, and responding to small hormone-like molecules termed autoinducers. This process is called quorum sensing. The bacteria population increases in numbers and strength as it produces density within the cell.²

How do peptides work with quorum sensing? Antimicrobial peptides (AMPs) are peptides that are able to destroy or disrupt the growth of bacteria. Peptides are able to trick bacteria into thinking that proliferation (multiplication) is unnecessary. Therefore, interrupting the quorum signaling and growth. A quorum is the minimum number of bacteria present that is necessary to meet a threshold. Once the threshold or quorum is reached, the bacteria colonies know they have proper supplies and population to multiply.

AMPs – ANTIMICROBIAL PEPTIDES

Antimicrobial peptides are effective in modulating quorum signaling. The purpose of the peptide is to interfere with the message of the bacterial colonies’ communication when a quorum has been obtained. The confusion prevents the quorum from being reached and, in turn, prevents bacteria from dividing and multiplying as quickly as initially intended because it does not have the proper supplies or support present to survive. By interrupting these signals, peptides confuse bacteria to hold off on growth, as the bacteria now perceives the environment as hostile due to a lack of necessary quorum signal from surrounding “allies” (other bacteria). The body’s immune responses can then gain the upper hand in fighting the bacteria, destroying it naturally.

Other types of AMPs are designed to send signals to promote and support a healthy microflora and to prevent the over proliferation of bad bacteria while encouraging the growth of beneficial bacteria. AMPs are a novel, innovative approach in the treatment of acne.

References

1 Grice, E.A. and J.A. Segre. “The skin microbiome.” Nature reviews. Microbiology 9, no. 4 \

(2011): 244-53. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/21407241.

2 Miller, M.B. and B.L. Bassler. “Quorum sensing in bacteria.” Annual review of microbiology

99. 55 (2001): 165-99. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/11544353.

3 Schleehauf, Brooke. “Mibelle’s Fermented Honey Buzzes with Microflora Restoration.”

Cosmetics & Toiletries. 2019.

https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/formulating/category/skincare/Mibelles-Fermented-

Honey-Buzzes-with-Microflora-Restoration-505657571.html

4 “Tackling the Skin Microbiome.” Cosmetics & Toiletries. 2018.

https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/formulating/category/skincare/Tackling-the-Skin-

Microbiome-500495012.html

5 Waters, C.M. and B.L. Bassler. “Quorum sensing: cell-to-cell communication in bacteria.

Annual review of cell and developmental biology no. 21 (2005): 319-46.

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/16212498

Susan Wade is a licensed aesthetician joining Viktoria De’Ann in 2015 as the director of education and sales after being in the health and education industry for over 18 years. She has a master’s in higher education administration and enjoys sharing her wealth of knowledge with physicians, clinicians, and students nationwide. Wade has a diverse background beyond aesthetics as a college instructor in kinesiology and business and is an owner of a successful sports conditioning business’ and a nutrition coach. Her passion lies in understanding the complexities of physiology, nutrition, and biology and in educating practitioners on how to incorporate these areas to reach better solutions and successful results with their clients.

Peptides have become one of the most valuable tools used in skin revision, cancer treatment, immune therapy, and health improvement.

As skin rejuvenation and youthfulness has become an increasing and growing request, it is imperative for the professional to understand how peptides are able to provide the missing tool to achieve healthy results.

SIGNALING PEPTIDES
Through a precise system of communication, cells receive messages that have passed through the plasma membrane or an activated receptor permitted through the plasma membrane. Think of the plasma membrane as a wall or barrier. Cellular communication is very specific and relies on the constant communication through peptides, chemicals, or hormones. Signaling peptides have the ability to communicate through these receptors.³ This is how peptides are able to communicate  and interact directly with desmosomes, cadherins, and adherin junctions. All are key components to the strength of the skin. Let’s look at how this happens.

As we look at optimal, healthy skin, there are many distinguishing features: firmness, plumpness, resiliency, and a strong structure. Aging skin has lost many of these features. A strong structure of skin is similar to the components needed to build a sturdy house. Alongside a firm foundation, it is imperative to have strong scaffolding or framework. When building a frame, strong sturdy materials are needed. The house is only as strong as the foundation and framework, as they hold everything in place. This is true for skin, as well.

WHAT ARE THE COMPONENTS OF SKIN STRENGTH?
Desmosomes and adheren junctions are the intercellular adhesive structures essential for the development of connective tissue (structure and strength of the skin). Cadherins are cell adhesion molecules found in the space between cells (extracellular space). There are two forms of cadherins found in the skin: type-1 cadherins found in the adherens junction and desmosomal cadherins found in desmosomes.²

The Type-1 cadherins hold epithelial cells together by binding with cadherins, which in turn bind to actin filaments. Actin filaments are proteins found abundantly in eukaryotic cells and muscles. Desmosomal cadherins bind to keratin filaments, which attach keratinocytes together in the epidermis.

Signaling peptides have the ability to interact with the cadherin molecules, which provides cell to cell bonding. The stronger the bond, the tighter the grip, and improved or stronger electrical signals pass through the cells, allowing for optimal skin function and increased tension, lifting, and firmness to the skin.

In review, the communication between cells, tissues, and organs are extremely specific. As peptides are able to provide the exact chemical message to the cadherins, the structure of the skin becomes stronger and more youthful.

References

1 Barrett-Hill, Florence. Advanced Skin Analysis. Virtual Beauty Corporation, 2004.

2 Viktoria De’Ann Resource information. www.viktoriadeann.com.

3 Berardi, John and Ryan Andrews. The Essentials of Sport and Exercise Nutrition. Precision

Nutrition, 2010.

Susan Wade is a licensed aesthetician joining Viktoria De’Ann in 2015 as the director of education and sales after being in the health and education industry for over 18 years. She has a master’s in higher education administration and enjoys sharing her wealth of knowledge with physicians, clinicians, and students nationwide. Wade has a diverse background beyond aesthetics as a college instructor in kinesiology and business and is an owner of a successful sports conditioning business’ and a nutrition coach. Her passion lies in understanding the complexities of physiology, nutrition, and biology and in educating practitioners on how to incorporate these areas to reach better solutions and successful results with their clients.

To understand how inhibitor peptides are able to alter pigmentation, it is imperative to understand how melanin is produced within the skin, what causes the overproduction of melanin (hyperpigmentation), and how peptides can play a key role in the regulation of melanin production.

HOW THE SKIN PRODUCES MELANIN
Melanogenisis begins when tyrosine, an amino acid, is stimulated by the pituitary gland and attaches to an enzyme, tyrosinase. After tyrosine and tyrosinase attach, another amino acid, DOPA, is formed. Dopamine is an amino acid neurotransmitter that is also used in the treatment of Parkinson’s disease.¹ DOPA produces eumelanin (dark or brown color) or pheomelanin (red or yellow). Once synthesis is complete, melanin granules are packed into vessels called melanosomes. Melanosomes then carry the pigment through dendrites to the keratinocytes.

What causes the overproduction of pigment? There are three distinct causes:

1. internal: medications, hormones, inflammation, and cell or mitochondria death (we lose 10 to 20 percent a year of correct DNA melanin after age 35)
2. external: excessive ultraviolet exposure, certain cosmetics, toxins, and metals
3. metabolism or breakdown of melanin

OVEREXPOSURE TO ULTRAVIOLET LIGHT
Let’s look at the cause that is most researched and well known: overexposure to ultraviolet light. In the event of overexposure to ultraviolet light, the cells become damaged. When the cell is damaged, it responds by creating messages (cytokines, growth factors), which in turn produces the melanocyte stimulating hormone (MSH). MSH is a protective messenger. This messenger binds to a receptor on the melanocyte to produce a response. This response is melanin production (protecting cells from future damage). Once the damaging factor has subsided, the melanin production should no longer be initiated by MSH and the melanin should be broken down and metabolized.

PEPTIDES
How do inhibitor peptides influence hyperpigmentation? The first goal in addressing hyperpigmentation is to determine the cause. Once this is understood, peptides can be used to block the MSH stimuli at the cell’s receptor. If a peptide can mimic the MSH molecule and attach to the receptor site without actually activating the receptor, the chemical cascade that leads to melanin production can then modulate the overproduction of melanin.

However, it is important to allow the skin to do what it is designed to do. The skin’s primary job is to protect. Therefore, inhibitor peptides do not totally inhibit, but compete for reception binding. This is an important factor because melanin is the cell’s response to protect. However, there are incidences when the message of damage is sent from damaged cells that have not gone through apoptosis (cell death). Ultimately, the goal of inhibitor peptides is to block these messages until the fatally damaged cells eventually die through necrosis and the melanin producing messages die along with them. This is an important component to understand.

This process is an automatic protection mechanism of the skin. Inflammation is not just an occurrence, but a message, and causes an organized, strategic response in the cells and tissues. These messages convey to the cell that damage has occurred. In turn, the cell responds by messaging its shield (melanin) to defend from any further damage.

The second issue involved with melanin is the breakdown or metabolism of the pigmentation. This is the hyperpigmentation or darker brown spots that are visible on the skin’s surface. Keep in mind, the visible discoloration on the surface is approximately 30 to 45 days old (cellular turnover from dermis to epidermis in older clients). As the keratinocyte makes its way to the stratum corneum, it flattens as well as accumulates pigment.²

In summary, inhibitor peptides can play a significant role in the treatment of hyper-pigmented skin conditions. Once the aesthetician understands melanogenesis and the causes of over pigmentation, peptides become the key to successful treatments.

References

1 Misu, Yoshimi, Goshima Yoshio, and Takeaki Miyamae. “Is DOPA a neurotransmitter?”Trends in Pharmacological Science 23, no. 6 (2002): 262-268.DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/S0165-6147(02)02013-8(02)02013-8

2 Barrett-Hill, Florence. Advanced Skin Analysis. Virtual Beauty Corporation, 2004.

3 Abdullah, Ahmed. Best Practices in the Treatment of Hyperpigmentation. Skin Inc, Apr 27,

4 Videira, Ines Ferreira dos Santos, Daniel Filipe Lima Moura, and Sofia Magna. “Mechanisms regulating melanogenesis.” Anais Brasileiros de Dermatologia 88, no. 1 (2013): 76-83.

Susan Wade is a licensed aesthetician joining Viktoria De’Ann in 2015 as the director of education and sales after being in the health and education industry for over 18 years. She has a master’s in higher education administration and enjoys sharing her wealth of knowledge with physicians, clinicians, and students nationwide. Wade has a diverse background beyond aesthetics as a college instructor in kinesiology and business and is an owner of a successful sports conditioning business’ and a nutrition coach. Her passion lies in understanding the complexities of physiology, nutrition, and biology and in educating practitioners on how to incorporate these areas to reach better solutions and successful results with their clients.

Peptides have become one of the most valuable tools used for skin revision, cancer treatment, immune therapy, antimicrobial for wound healing, and for overall improved health. There are increasingly new advances and research in peptides and their effect on the health of the skin.
With the numerous claims of skin rejuvenation and youthfulness, it is imperative for the professional to understand how peptides are able to provide their clients with healthy skin revision and rejuvenation.
The industry has become very fast-paced using new technology, increased and aggressive marketing plans, unrealistic time-frames resulting in a confusion and disappointment by both the aesthetician and client. Therefore, aestheticians must become educated and understand the health of skin and how it functions both physically and chemically. This article will focus on a general understanding of peptides and how they are an essential contributor to skin health. As a professional aesthetician, the knowledge of how skin functions as an organ and the many factors that contribute to healthy skin are the key markers to success.
Let’s begin with understanding and defining peptides. The American Medical Dictionary defines peptides as, “any member or class of compounds of low molecular weight that yield two or more amino acids on hydrolysis. They are the constituent parts of proteins and are formed by loss of water from the NH2 and COOH groups of adjacent amino acids. Peptides are known as dipeptides, tripeptides, tetrapeptides, and so on, depending upon the number of amino acids in the molecule.”1 Simply stated, a peptide is a chemical bond in the chain of amino acids.
The role of peptides is to assist with communication between cells, signal and assist with the formation of collagen, promote cellular metabolism, repair and enhance natural defense mechanisms by aiding with the healing and inflammation of tissue, and modulate enzymes for melanin production. They are capable of performing millions of tasks within and between cells, providing the aesthetician with their greatest tool to restore healthy, youthful skin, naturally.
The body produces peptides naturally. Some of these are: oxytocin (stimulates contractions);
insulin (regulates blood glucose); bradykinin (inhibits inflammation of tissues); and enkephalins (assists with pain control).2
What factors are needed to produce healthy skin?

• A functioning acid mantle of a pH range of 4.5 to 5.5
• A regular and systematic cellular turnover rate of 21 to 28 days
• A balance of proper melanin production to provide ultraviolet protection
• A functioning lymphatic and respiratory system for nutrients to enter and waste to exit
• A strong extra cellular matrix system
• Balanced production of hyaluronic acid
• Retention of subcutaneous tissue
• Functioning Langerhans cells in order to repair and heal wounds
• An ample supply of elastin, collagen, and glycosaminoglycans production
• A strong defense to combat foreign intruders
• An internal natural moisturizing factor

Upon understanding the components of healthy skin, one can quickly determine the many causes for aging skin. A few physiological manifestations may be a reduced rate of cell turnover, decreased structure of the extra cellular matrix, a buildup of toxins, a decline of subcutaneous tissue, slower healing rate of injuries, and an over production of melanin.
If an organ is not functioning correctly, it is logical to first determine the cause and discover the reasons why the cells and tissues are not functioning correctly. For example, one cannot physically see the liver, but will receive messages from the body if it is compromised. These signals or messages can be manifest by symptoms of nausea, jaundice, abdominal swelling, chronic fatigue, and a tendency to bruise easily.3
As the majority of the population seeks healthy, younger skin, peptides provide a natural answer with a realistic time frame.

References
1 “Medical Dictionary.” The Free Dictionary by Farlex. https://medical-dictionary.thefreedictionary.com/
2 “Amino Acids and Peptides.” Biochemistry. http://www.bioinfo.org.cn/book/biochemistry/chapt05/sim1.html
3 Mayo Clinic. www.mayoclinic.org
4 Barrett-Hill, Florence. Advanced Skin Analysis. Virtual Beauty Corporation, 2004.
5 Barrett-Hill, Florence. Cosmetic Chemistry for the Skin Treatment Therapist. Virtual Beauty Corporation, 2009.

Susan Wade is a licensed aesthetician joining Viktoria De’Ann in 2015 as the director of education and sales after being in the health and education industry for over 18 years. She has a master’s in higher education administration and enjoys sharing her wealth of knowledge with physicians, clinicians, and students nationwide. Wade has a diverse background beyond aesthetics as a college instructor in kinesiology and business and is an owner of a successful sports conditioning business and a nutrition coach. Her passion lies in understanding the complexities of physiology, nutrition, and biology and in educating practitioners on how to incorporate these areas to reach better solutions and successful results with their clients. 

The role of the mitochondria in promoting younger skin has become a highly marketed subject in the skin care industry. As an aesthetician, it becomes increasingly challenging to understand and keep pace with the latest technology and most advanced ingredients in skin care products. This sometimes causes confusion or misrepresentation of the science and how the cells function. This article will provide an explanation of the mitochondria and how bioactive peptides can influence the health of the skin.
A mitochondrion (mitochondria is the plural form) is an organelle within the cell. An organelle is composed of a number of molecules or chemicals that perform very specific and individual functions. These organelles are found in most eukaryotic cells. The mitochondria are also described as the “powerhouse of the cell” because they generate most of the cell’s adenosine triphosphate (ATP). The number of mitochondria in a cell is directly related to the activity of the cell. In fact, frequent bouts of exercise can increase the number of mitochondria inside muscle cells. This is why elite athletes typically have an increase in mitochondrial density in their muscles. It is possible to build more mitochondria per unit of muscle mass which helps to provide the ATP required for high level sports performance.1 How does the mitochondria produce ATP? The foods consumed – like protein, carbohydrates, and fats – provide the energy needed to sustain cellular function to overall health. When carbohydrates, fats, or proteins are consumed, they are broken down in the digestive tracts and are ultimately reabsorbed into the bloodstream. The process of transporting substances in and out of cells requires a lot of energy. In addition, oxygen is needed to release the energy that is stored in food. The energy released is ATP. The process of oxidizing glucose and releasing carbon dioxide is a process called cellular respiration. Approximately 30 molecules of ATP can be produced from one molecule of glucose.2
ATP is used in intracellular energy transfer that is constantly recycled and is the primary energy source for the majority of cellular functions.2 If the mitochondria does not have energy, it will go through apoptosis (die). It would be logical to conclude that the mitochondria’s lack of energy, or inability to provide energy, can then be considered a cause of aging skin.
How do peptides influence the mitochondria? Cells communicate through receptors called signal transduction.1 Peptides essentially transport proteins through the active transport. This is where the message is received by the cell and the cell can perform a specific function. However, in order for the cell to actually receive the message, the peptide must be bioactive, meaning it must have an effect upon a living organism, tissue, or cell.3

Bioactive peptides must:
• carry the correct message
• meet the threshold requirements of the cell (having the right concentration produces visible responses or results)
• fit into a biological feedback loop (providing homeostasis within the body)
• be received to the target cells

There are many categories of peptides. These include: signaling (collagen production, metabolism), carriers (transports nutrients to the target cell), neurotransmitters (muscle modulators), enzymatic (modulates enzymes), structural (dermal/epidermal junction) and antimicrobia (fighting bacteria or foreign toxins.1
When bioactive peptides are able to communicate to the cells, interaction is increased, therefore, promoting increased or improved function. Remember, cells do not perform in isolation. Cells thrive under conditions of close interaction, communication, oxygen, and nutrients exchange. Peptides have important jobs to transmit, transport, modulate, or fight, so it is logical that cells can thrive in this environment. This is the same as having strong personal relationships. When communication is strong, the relationship thrives. When communication is weak, the relationship suffers. The human cellular system is a highly organized, structured, and systematic entity that can perform many tasks. Every level of cellular systems within the body – from the brain to tissues, blood, and organs – depends upon the health of the cells.

References
1 Berardi, John, and Ryan Andrews. “Cell Structure and Function.” In The Essentials of Sport
and Exercise Nutrition. Precision Nutrition, 2015. 36
2 “Skin Aging.” MedlinePlus. September 18, 2018. https://medlineplus.gov/skinaging.html.
3 Medical Dictionary, www.medicaldictionary.com
4 Barrett-Hill, Florence. Advanced Skin Analysis. Virtual Beauty Corporation, 2004.

Susan Wade is a licensed aesthetician joining Viktoria De’Ann in 2015 as the director of education and sales after being in the health and education industry for over 18 years. She has a master’s degree in higher education administration and enjoys sharing her wealth of knowledge with physicians, clinicians, and students nationwide. Wade has a diverse background beyond aesthetics as a college instructor in kinesiology and business. She is also an owner of a successful sports conditioning business and a nutrition coach. Her passion lies in understanding the complexities of physiology, nutrition, and biology and in educating practitioners on how to incorporate these areas to reach better solutions and successful results with their clients.