Shannon Esau

Shannon Esau

Fully Flawless: Treating Body Acne

Acne is the most common skin condition in the United States. While it is primarily present on the face, it is not the only site. Acne can affect any part of the body that has oil-secreting glands or hair follicles, including the back, chest, and shoulders. Though these regions may be easier to conceal, body acne can still have an adverse effect on an individual’s social life, self-esteem, and body image.

Luckily, there are ways to support clients who may be experiencing body acne, starting in the treatment room with body facials and peels. With advanced professional treatments, peels and enzymes, and the right homecare regimen, professionals can help clients achieve healthy, smooth skin, and prevent or reduce the appearance of acne scaring. Think beyond only treating the face and explore how to help clients achieve whole body radiance and skin health.

Want to read more?

Subscribe to continue reading this article, plus gain access to all DERMASCOPE has to offer.

SUBSCRIBE

 

Shannon EsauShannon Esau is the CEO and national educator at RA Skin Care where she oversees the company’s strategic growth, development of new product formulations and innovations, and the educational and instructional programming. She brings more than 20 years’ experience in the aesthetic industry. Esau has also completed advanced chemistry studies in cosmetic formulation and formerly owned and operated three advanced skin care clinics in the Dallas-Fort Worth metroplex.

 

The Good & Bad of Skin Care: Necessary Ingredients

There are many mixed messages out there about certain skin care ingredients. While there are certainly some ingredients that have unanimously been deemed bad, there are others that have undeservingly earned a bad rap.

Ingredients like alcohol, laureth, and glycerin are just a few examples. However, when it comes to whether these are truly bad by definition, the answer is not as clear cut. In many cases, it depends on the percentage, source, and overall formula.

Want to read more?

Subscribe to continue reading this article, plus gain access to all DERMASCOPE has to offer.

SUBSCRIBE

Gimme Sunshine: Getting More Out of Mineral Powder Sunscreens

Sunscreen use has slowly been increasing over the years because there is more information about the damaging effects of the sun on the skin.According to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), just over 40% of women reported using sunscreen on their face regularly. For men, that number was much lower, falling just above 18%. This could be due to the fact that sunscreen is now in more cosmetic products that women primarily use. In fact, another reportfound that nearly one in three American adults use a makeup product with sun protection facor, with one of the popular choices being a mineral-based powder. 

Want to read more?

Subscribe to continue reading this article, plus gain access to all DERMASCOPE has to offer.

SUBSCRIBE

 

Shannon EsauShannon Esau is the CEO and national educator at RA Skin Cosmeceuticals where she oversees the company’s strategic growth, development of new product formulations and innovations, and the educational and instructional programming. She brings more than 20 years’ experience in the aesthetic industry. Esau has also completed advanced chemistry studies in cosmetic formulation and formerly owned and operated three advanced skin care clinics in the Dallas-Fort Worth metroplex. 

 

 

 

 

 

Eyes: What Are They Revealing?

Eyes: What Are They Revealing?

Eyes can reveal a lot –– stress, age, and other health issues. Now, with masks as an accessory for the foreseeable future, it's an opportune time to support clients with eye treatments and home care. In this video, Shannon Esau and Aubree Carter from Rhonda Allison discuss some of the common issues that challenge the delicate eye region, demonstrate two treatment room treatments to create bright eyes, and ingredients that support a pro-youth appearance.

Shannon Esau is the CEO and director of education at Rhonda Allison Cosmeceuticals where she oversees the company’s strategic growth, development of new product formulations and innovations, and the educational and instructional programming. She brings more than 20 years’ experience in the aesthetic industry, having served as national educator within Rhonda Allison. Esau also completed advanced chemistry studies in cosmetic formulation. Prior to becoming a Rhonda Allison national educator, Esau owned and operated three skin care salons in the Dallas/Fort Worth area, selling Rhonda Allison products.

How to Enhance the Rejuvenating Effects of Peels

Peels remain one of most powerful, non-surgical ways to deliver the youthful appearance so many clients strive to achieve. Today however, peels offer so much more than pro-youth results. They can be dialed in to correct or manage very specific skin challenges from acne to pigmentation issues and even sensitive and rosacea skins.

 

There is an art form to chemical peeling that comes with an understanding of skin, knowledge of the variety of solutions and how they affect the skin, as well as technique. Particularly with the advancements in peel formulas we now have available to us, understanding the dynamics of peels will go a long way in helping you identify how to create customized treatments for clients and enhance the outcomes.

 

Let’s look at some of these formulas, how they can be used, and some ways you can start to build upon your peel treatments to deliver enhanced rejuvenating results.

 

EXPLORING THE WORLD OF ACIDS

Chemical peels came into practice in dermatology in the late 1800s when salicylic acid, resorcinol, phenol, and TCA were primary choices for rejuvenating and brightening the skin. Over the decades, as dermatologists and chemists began experimenting with different formulations and applications, they started seeing promising results. Chemical peels soon became a popular choice among skin care professionals because it gave them a way to get true change and results on the skin.

 

Thanks to the emergence of next-generation acid formulas, we’ve been able to tailor treatments more specifically and, in many cases, enhance the efficacy. We’ve also been able to get results with skin types that normally would not be considered a peel candidate.

 

FLOWER ACIDS

Obtained from hibiscus chalices and lotus root, these acids give back to the skin cells and are much friendlier to the skin than most other choices. The properties range from high antioxidant support to increasing hydration in the skin, while creating lifting and exfoliation. These are ideal for acne and sensitive skins.

 

MANDELIC ACID, ARGININE, PYRUVIC ACID, AND PHYTIC ACID

Mandelic acid is highly beneficial in treating photo-aging, acne, rosacea, and irregular pigmentation. This complex increases cellular energy, provides antioxidants helping to prevent the formation of free radicals, and increases wound healing with the amino acid l-arginine. L-arginine is one of the 20 main amino acids. It accelerates wound healing, promotes collagen synthesis, firms and intensifies antioxidant properties.

 

CARNITINE, RETINOL, AND PEPTIDES

This blend stimulates the natural desquamation process and with the addition of peptides and the chiral form of carnitine, it will intensify the toning and firming of the skin, while also supporting energy production within the mitochondria. The vitamin A derivative converts to retinoic acid and is a DNA regulator. It assists in the synthesis of collagen, aids in the formation of blood vessels, and encourages healthy cell formation. Retinols are very important to support the cellular injury and give back to the fibroblast cells caused by other acids.

 

HYDROGEN, ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS, AND SALICYLIC ACID

This blend is highly beneficial for photo-damaged skin. It stimulates blood flow and increases oxygenation, brightens skin tone, and reduces pigmentation. Hydrogen peroxide delivers brightening benefits, antibacterial support, and it synergizes with other acids to assist with absorption. Alpha hydroxy acids such as glycolic, lactic, and salicylic acid rejuvenate, hydrate, and strengthen collagen and are excellent choices for acne skin.

 

These acid combinations fall into the superficial range, creating minimal to no downtime. Still, they deliver potent rejuvenating results. As exciting as these new formulations are, a conversation about peels is not complete without addressing some of the tried-and-true classics. These time-tested formulas, many of which you are likely familiar with, also provide superficial, epidermal exfoliation and work to reverse the visible signs of aging.

 

ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS

These are naturally occurring, nontoxic, organic acids. The most commonly used alpha hydroxy acids include glycolic and l-lactic acid. These acids loosen the desmosome junctions (glue-like substance) that hold the cells together.

 

AZELAIC ACID

Created by oxygenating oleic acid azelaic acid is unsaturated fatty acid found in milk fats and grains, such as barley and wheat. This is used as a lightening, lifting and antibacterial agent.

 

SALICYLIC ACID

A beta hydroxy acid and is a relatively safe, low-risk acid, as it is self-neutralizing and produces a drying and lifting effect. It also dissolves layers of the epidermis and depending on the percentage used can create heavy lifting of the cells.

 

TCA

TCA penetrates only if it used in an aqueous base. It is nontoxic, self-neutralizing, keratolytic, and is very effective in low strengths. It can be used alone or in tandem with other acids to create a deep exfoliation.

 

JESSNER

A combination of lower-strength acids (salicylic, resorcinol, and lactic acid) Jessner peels synergize to produce an efficient exfoliating agent with less risk.

 

RED WINE VINEGAR

An all-natural acid with a high antioxidant content and creates a firming and tightening effect on the skin. Though not proven, it is said to produce exfoliation with less free-radical damage, and thus cause less injury to the skin.

Keep in mind, these classics may be used to create customized treatments, as it all comes down to education, knowing the client’s skin, and the results you both want to achieve. In addition to layering and blending these complex solutions, treatments may further be enhanced and customized with advanced technologies. While we can enhance treatments by blending specific acids or integrating other modalities, success and desired results is absolutely dependent on good pre- and post-care.

 

ENHANCING RESULTS WITH PRE- AND POST-CARE

Pre- and post-care treatments can be easy to overlook. However, these will have a significant impact on results and should be a part of every peel.

 

Why? Think of it like an artist. Before they begin a painting, they prime the canvas and once they’ve finished, they seal it to preserve their masterpiece. The skin, much like a canvas, needs to be primed to stimulate the rejuvenation process and prepare the skin for what is to come. Following the peel or any resurfacing treatment, the skin needs to be rebuilt and brought back to optimal health with proper wound care.

 

MAXIMIZING THE PRE-TREATMENT

Pre-treatment will vary based on the skin type and the goal of the treatment. This is an opportunity to create a truly custom treatment based on your client’s skin care needs and desired results. The following are a few pre-treatment ideas based on skin challenges.

 

Pigmentation

For clients who may have pigmentation issues, higher Fitzpatricks or if you are performing a deep peel, using a brightener or tyrosinase inhibitor will help suppress melanin, and may help eliminate post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), as well as brighten overall skin tone. This process will also pave the way for the acid formula to penetrate deeper. Ingredient suggestions: bellis perennis flower, l-arbutin, kojic acid, and l-lactic acid.

 

Acne

Antibacterial support prior to treatment will not only help eliminate bacteria, but also the potential for excessive purging that occurs with acne skin. Ingredient suggestions include salicylic acid, totarol, and azelaic acid.

 

Acne Scarring

Depending on the build-up underneath skin, performing a pre-treatment will help enhance results, however a more aggressive approach is needed. Ingredient suggestions: salicylic serum, glycolic acid, L-lactic acid.

 

Aging

The right pre-treatment can help stimulate collagen and elastin and support healing. It will also prepare the epidermis for acid penetration. Ingredient suggestion include an encapsulated vitamin A.

 

Rough and Thicker Texture

A more aggressive pre-treatment will help stimulate the skin and begin to soften the epidermis for optimal acid penetration. Ingredient suggestions include glycolic acid, L-lactic acid, and retinol.

 

Sensitive Skin

For sensitive, rosacea-prone or thinner skin, a pre-treatment will start the building process, help the epidermis layer loosen, increase energy, and provide anti-inflammatory and antibacterial support. Ingredient suggestions: mandelic acid, arginine, phytic acid, pyruvic acid, and vitamin A.

 

Pre-treatment will ready the skin’s surface by reducing lipids, decreasing inflammation, suppressing melanin, and helping to ensure greater absorption of the peeling solution. Skin care professionals should suggest a one to two week pre-treatment plan for best results.

 

REPAIR AND REBUILD WITH POST-CARE

When performing peels, you are creating a controlled injury in the skin that disrupts the protective barrier resulting in a wound. Supporting the skin through the trauma will ensure proper healing and reduce the probability of complications. Note that a peel should never be performed if you are not prepared to treat the complications of that peel.

 

Common post-peel complications include:

  • Pruritus (itching) – post-peel itching is common for many skin types and not just sensitive skin. Hydrocortisone and willow herb – a natural cortisone will help soothe and calm the skin during the peeling process.
  • Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) – this is often caused by picking, so be sure to educate clients about the importance of not picking the skin that is peeling. If clients are particularly prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, send them home with epidermal growth factors to support the healing and repair process.
  • Discomfort or pain – this will generally ease after the first 24 hours; however, you can support clients with ingredients that will reduce inflammation and provide cooling, soothing relief. Arnica Montana is a wonderful, natural ingredient for this.

While there are other complications that may occur, ingredients that support healing, and provide anti-inflammatory and soothing support will be important components following any corrective procedure that uses acids or intense enzymes. It is vital to add epidermal growth factor to the skin during the peeling phase and, of course, an sun protectant factor with a clean ingredient deck is essential.

 

Taking the time to learn the art of peels will be the best way to enhance their rejuvenating results. When you have a solid, foundational knowledge of the dynamics of peels, you will be better prepared to see the ways to manipulate them to create the outcomes you and your client want.

 

 

2019 Shannon Esau

 

 

 

Shannon Esau is the CEO and national educator at Rhonda Allison Cosmeceuticals where she oversees the company’s strategic growth, development of new product formulations and innovations, and the educational and instructional programming, which is offered to aesthetic professionals around the globe. She brings nearly 20 years’ experience in the aesthetic industry, as well as a strong background in business and corporate development and growth.

All Time High: A Look at the Increasing Occurrence of Adult Acne

Often considered a teenager’s struggle, acne is becoming increasingly more prevalent amongst adults. From hormonal acne to acne cosmetica to acne rosacea and beyond – statistics for adult acne are higher than ever. And as the number of cases continues to climb, the difficulty present in eradicating the condition remains the same. Yet, solutions do exist.

 

esau2Acne is the most common skin condition in the United States. It does not discriminate between age, race, or gender and it is on the rise. Today, it is estimated up to 50 million Americans are impacted by acne annually.1 And, while commonly associated with adolescence, it is increasingly appearing in adults.

B3 Booster Imperfection Diminisher

Rhonda Allison Cosmeceuticals’ new B3 Booster Imperfection Diminisher – a blend of niacinamide, beta glucans, and cornflower extract – reduces inflammation and redness, stimulates collagen, evens skin tone, and more.

Tic, Toc: Helping Clients Set Realistic Expectations for the Results Clock

The biggest question on most clients’ minds when they start a treatment plan, or new product, is, “how quickly will I see results?” More often than not, they are hoping for immediate improvement, but seeing true change usually takes time. It is important to set proper expectations to ensure a happy client.

 

The more immediate changes a client will notice when beginning a new skin routine tailored for their skin are surface improvements like smoother, softer texture and improved levels of hydration. These surface changes can happen quickly and, depending on the individual’s skin, may be noticed in as little as one to five days.

 

With that said, it can take between three to six weeks to know if a product is working on a deeper level or to see more of a change. There are many factors contributing to this, like skin type, current skin conditions, and lifestyle and skin habits. A more significant factor, however, is cellular turnover. Skin is considered mosaic, meaning it does not shed skin cells all at once. So, when working to reduce wrinkles, lighten pigmentation, clear acne, and strengthen sensitive skin, use ingredients that initiate change at the dermal layer and in the deeper layers of the epidermis. The dermal layer is responsible for the strength of those new epidermal skin cells starting to come to the surface. Over a four to six week period, the skin should fully shed; this is when more impactful changes to the skin begin to show. Two to three months into the regimen, as the skin continues this shedding and rebuilding cycle, even more positive results will be visible.

 

Remind clients to trust the process and be patient. Skin healing and changes are not an overnight process. However, if after three to five weeks the skin does not seem to be responding, it may be time to reevaluate the ingredients being used and make some changes.

 

HOW SKIN HEALS

 

All skin goes through the natural cell turnover process called desquamation, in which old cells are sloughed off and new cells are brought to the surface. This process averages 28 to 40 days but slows as the skin ages and is less efficient for those with acne. The client’s age and skin condition should be taken into account when considering the timeline. As mentioned above, the millions of cells in skin tissue go through their different stages of growth and shedding in phases, so the process of visibly changing the skin is gradual.

 

Skin changing formulas like vitamin E, peptides, and growth factors will have a cumulative effect on the cells and the longer products containing these ingredients are used, the greater the results clients will see. Other ingredients like retinaldehyde, vitamin C, and mandelic acids will continue to support the skin on a daily basis. As the cells get stronger from the use of these ingredients, more significant changes will be visible on the surface.

 

HOMECARE FOR OPTIMAL RESULTS

 

The single best way to ensure skin care products yield optimal results as quickly as possible is to educate clients on proper and consistent use. Work in the treatment room must be supported by diligent homecare, particularly when tackling tougher skin challenges like acne and pigmentation.

 

Cleansers should be worked into the skin for one to two minutes before rinsing, paying special attention to areas like the side of the nose, the chin, or any particular problem areas. Cleansers need time to penetrate and dissolve oils and debris, so remind clients not to rush the process. Clean skin is going to allow all other products to penetrate more efficiently and improve the texture of the skin.

 

Exfoliation also helps the skin renewal process by lifting and removing dead skin cells and clearing the way for new, healthy cells to surface. The frequency and type of exfoliant used (whether using a scrub or an acid formula) will depend on the client’s needs and goals, but be sure to give them clear instructions, as over-exfoliating may cause irritation and damage. Toners, correctives, moisturizers, and sun protection specifically chosen for the client’s skin needs will also support achieving the results they desire. The goal is to cleanse, exfoliate, rebuild, and protect.

 

Because customized homecare and treatment room plans are the key to results, understanding all possible contributing factors in the client’s life is essential. Diet, exercise, stress, and sleep all impact skin health, and will also impact the efficacy of ingredients, as well as the healing process. Encourage clients to pursue healthy behaviors and let them know how their daily routines can help or hinder their progress.

 

Generally speaking, it is safe to tell clients they will begin to see the effects of a new product (or system of products) within five weeks. Be sure to explain the natural processes of skin to them and do not over promise results. It is important they do not get discouraged and stop use or get careless with their regimen. Help them set realistic expectations, so they will have the confidence to stick with the program and the patience to let healthy skin emerge.

 

EsauShannon Esau is the director of sales and education at Rhonda Allison Cosmeceuticals. She brings more than 17 years’ experience in the aesthetic industry. Esau owned skin care salons in the Dallas and Ft. Worth, Texas area, has studied chemistry in skin care formulations, and has been mentored by Rhonda Allison for decades.

Saké: a Smooth Skin Potion

Most people know saké as the drink that accompanies sushi or other Japanese dishes. Aside from being a rice wine beverage, it actually has many benefits for the skin and body.

 

Saké contains 18 different amino acids – the building blocks of protein – which are produced during the brewing process. Amino acids are critical to life, yet the body can only produce 10 of the 20 acids. The rest must be derived from outside sources such as essential oils, antioxidant-rich foods, and saké.

 

What is your daily skin care Ritual?

by Shannon Esau,
Rhonda Allison
Cosmeceuticals

My skin care regimen is somewhat simple, which is important for rosacea sensitive skin like mine. I go between the Rhonda Allison Beta Green Tea Cleanser and Creamy Milk Cleanser to keep my skin in balance. Our Mandelic Arginine Serum along with SynErgy A are my game changers. They increase cellular turnover and slow down the aging process. I love my Infuse 7 as I have dryer skin, especially living in Colorado. Of course, I can’t forget the eyes –– I never go to bed without putting on Eye & Lip Renew Serum. Finally, to give me a beautiful, dewy, glowing look all day, I apply IllumiColour Crème.

 

Rhonda Allison Announces Details of 2018 Advanced Education RA Symposium

Rhonda Allison Announces Details of 2018 Advanced Education RA Symposium

Rhonda Allison Cosmeceuticals, a leader in professional skin care and advanced aesthetics, will hold the 2018 Rhonda Allison National Symposium on April 22 to 25 in Beaver Creek, Colorado. This advanced education conference aims to helpaesthetic professionals grow their businesses and expand their knowledge.


The RA Symposium will feature sessions on advanced techniques, treatments to address specific skin issues, marketing, and networking opportunities. Attendees will have the opportunity to meet Rhonda Allison, founder and CEO of Rhonda Allison Cosmeceuticals.


“The first RA Symposium was a success with aesthetic professionals coming together to deepen their knowledge, network and re-energize,” said Shannon Esau, director of education at Rhonda Allison. “We’re bringing the symposium back in 2018 with a new curriculum that focuses on the latest advancements in aesthetics – whether a new or a returning attendee, the experience will be invaluable.”


Guest speakers and RA educators at the symposium are scheduled to lead sessions covering a variety of essential topics, including hands-on techniques, stem cells and DNA repair, acne in-depth, how to increase profits, creating a signature facial, merchandising strategies, and more!


The symposium will be held at the Ritz Carlton Bachelor Gulch on Beaver Creek Mountain. The cost to attend is $1,800, which includes a three-night stay at the resort, a dinner event for the attendee and a guest, three days packed full of education, and numerous other perks.

Tools of the Trade: Makeup

Trendsetters give insight on the makeup tools they recommend.


 

February 2024

Body Care Blogs

Brands of the Month

  • Repechage
  • Face Reality Skincare
  • Skin Script