Bella Schneider

Bella Schneider

An Ingredient Guide to Proper Skin Care

With the endless choices of skin care products and the amount of individual ingredients available, tackling a skin condition with the right cocktail is more confusing than ever before. I have highlighted four of the most common skin issues clients come to the spa to treat, along with a detailed list of the most advanced ingredients those skin types will respond to for clear, glowing, and radiant complexions.

 

OILY AND ACNE-PRONE SKIN

Once you understand how the following ingredients can tackle overly shiny, problematic skin, you’ll be able to help clients tame their skin condition and embrace their skin type.

Beta Hydroxy Acids: Beta hydroxy acids can help treat blackheads, whiteheads, and acne as they actively penetrate pores and remove dirt.

 

Salicylic Acid: Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid that encourages exfoliation of skin and unclogging of pores.

 

Sulfur: Sulfur works to dry out skin, absorbing excess oil that may contribute to acne breakouts.

 

Benzoyl Peroxide: Benzoyl peroxide is an antimicrobial which reduces acne-causing bacteria on the skin. 

 

Tea Tree Oil: This essential oil penetrates deep into the skin, helping unblock the sebaceous glands to dry out whiteheads, blackheads, pimples, and blemishes.

 

Retinols: This vitamin A derivative has been proven to unclog pores, stimulate collagen production, and improve collagen density.

 

SENSITIVE SKIN

Patch testing ingredients on clients with temperamental skin types is a good idea before proceeding with any treatment.

 

Plant-Based Retinols: While retinol is hands down a must in every beauty arsenal, it can irritate certain skins – hence the formulation of a new natural alternative, bakuchiol. Derived from the babchi plant, it is a powerful plant-based ingredient that’s perfect for sensitive skin.

 

Alpha Hydroxy Acids and Beta Hydroxy Acids: Most alpha hydroxy acids are naturally derived and they’re much gentler on sensitive skin compared to beta hydroxy acids.

 

Fragrance-Free or Light Fragrance: It is very easy for sensitive skin to get irritated, and one cause can be added fragrance in products. The best way to manage sensitive skin is to look for products that are 100% fragrance-free.

 

Hyaluronic Acid: Hyaluronic acid is for all skin types, even the most sensitive, redness-prone skin, due to its natural calming effects.

 

Gaba or Licorice: Licorice root has powerful antioxidants that help protect the skin from environmental stressors and help soothe the skin.

 

Glycerin: Glycerin is best for people with easily irritated skin because it prevents dryness with its moisturizing properties. 

 

Chamomile: Chamomile has very strong anti-inflammatory properties which are particularly soothing for sensitive skin.

 

Calendula: Calendula is very healing and can help treat conditions such as eczema, dermatitis, and psoriasis.

 

Aloe Vera: Aloe Vera is very soothing and does not cause any irritation. Its anti-inflammatory properties help in treating blemishes, acne, and other skin problems.

 

Squalene: Squalene tends to absorb slowly into the skin and may be more effective for sensitive skin, as it is non-irritating.

 

Natural Oils (jojoba, olive, borage, argan, coconut, and rosehip): Synthetic fragrance found in conventional skin care products can irritate the skin, while natural oils are a great alternative for those with sensitive skin.

 

HYPERPIGMENTED SKIN

Along with patience and consistency, there are several ingredients that can help rid discoloration for good.

 

Alpha Hydroxy Acids, such as glycolic, lactic, citric, malic, or tartaric acid: Alpha hydroxy acids can treat darks spots due to the exfoliating and renewing properties.

 

Azelaic Acid: Azelaic acid has been widely used to treat both hyperpigmentation and acne.

 

Kojic Acid: Kojic acid is a natural skin lightening agent derived from fungi that inhibits excess melanin production.

 

Salicylic Acid: Salicylic acid treats hyperpigmentation through its exfoliating properties and its ability to inhibit melanin formation.

 

Vitamin C (in the form of l-ascorbic acid): Vitamin C has been shown to help fade dark spots and lead to a more even-toned complexion.

 

SPF: Mineral sunscreens that have either zinc oxide or titanium dioxide can block out most of the rays that will worsen the dark spots.

 

AGING, SAGGING SKIN

With the right cocktail of cutting-edge ingredients, you now have the power to turn back the hands of time on a client’s face.

 

Vitamin A Derivatives: Vitamin A has shown to reduce wrinkles and may help to promote the production of skin-building compounds.

 

Vitamin C: As an antioxidant, vitamin C provides protection from free radicals, helps to minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, brightens, and promotes an even skin tone.

 

New Generation Neck Creams: The neck is one of the first areas of the body to develop signs of aging – regardless of the effort you are putting in elsewhere. Applying the latest lifting and firming gels and deep hydrators targeted to the neck will help slow down the sagging process.

 

Collagen: As you age, your body produces less collagen, leading to dry skin and the formation of wrinkles. Products containing collagen may help slow the aging of skin by reducing wrinkles and dryness.

 

Ceramides: Ceramides protect against moisture loss to keep skin youthful and supple and nourish the skin from within.

 

Glycolic, Lactic, and Polyhydroxy Acids: These acids help stimulate the growth of collagen to aid with skin elasticity.

 

Hyaluronic Acid: This ingredient has been shown to diminish wrinkles, improve skin elasticity, and boost skin firmness.

 

Natural Oils (jojoba, olive, borage, argan, coconut, and rosehip): These essential oils can help prevent and reduce the appearance of wrinkles.

 

Niacinamide: Works with the natural substances in skin to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

 

Retinol and Plant-Based Retinol: Retinoids reduce fine lines and wrinkles by increasing the production of collagen. 

 

Vitamin C: As an antioxidant, it provides protection from free radicals, helps to minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, brightens, and promotes an even skin tone.

 

2019 Bella SchneiderBella Schneider, P.M.E., leads a team of more than 200 aesthetic professionals at three premier spas. For more than 35 years, Schneider has traveled the world to bring service providers the best in aesthetic science. As a groundbreaking formulator, successful retailer, and respected educator, her mission is to help professionals enhance their practice and grow their business. Winner of the Nouvelles Esthetiques lifetime achievement Crystal Award for contributions to beauty science, Schneider hosts beginning-to-advanced training in clinical and spa skin care, as well as ethnic skin care, peels, and other new techniques, at Bella Schneider Beauty’s Palo Alto, California-based training center.

 

 

 

 

Hypopigmentation

Hypopigmentation may sound similar to hyperpigmentation, but they are complete opposites. Hypopigmentation is the lack of pigmentation in the skin, whereas hyperpigmentation is an excessive amount of pigmentation in the skin.

 

Hypopigmentation is caused when melanocytes within the body begin to slow down or stop producing melanin. The result is white or light patches in the skin.

 

Hypopigmentation can be caused by genetic disorders or conditions that affect the pigment producing cells in the body, such as vitiligo, albinism, or pityriasis alba. Overly aggressive lasers or skin peels - when not properly suited to the client’s ethnic profile - may also result in hypopigmentation.

 

The most common cause of hypopigmentation is trauma or injury to the skin. Burns, cuts, pimples, blisters, or improperly administered laser or chemical peels can all cause hypopigmentation. When left to heal, these skin traumas often leave behind blotchy, uneven,
and bleached-looking skin.

 

Treatments include corticosteroid creams and fading or bleaching creams, like hydroquinone to blend the surrounding areas. IPL, Fraxel, microdermabrasion, and chemical peels are other, more aggressive, options.

Pore-fect Skin

Are clients complaining of visible pores? They are not alone. Large pores rank as one of the most common frustrations for clients. Requests for facials that tighten, shrink, unclog, and minimize pores are received on a daily basis. Some clients even ask to get rid of their pores altogether. While pores are essential to skin’s survival and can never be completely eliminated, there are several ways to make clients happy and their pores less noticeable.

Must-Haves for a Spa Website

With today's competitive spa industry, it is essential to have an up-to-date and modern website that clearly represents the business and all services offered. Skin care professionals are in the field of making clients feel and look beautiful; the website needs to reflect that. A clean design that is visually appealing and easy to navigate will attract new clientele and keep existing clientele coming back.

How to Sell Without Being Pushy

Sales are never easy. Torn between the desire to please clients and make money, skin care professionals often appear needy or too aggressive if they do not practice a well thought out selling strategy. How can professionals do that?

Anti-Aging for Every Age Group: It's never too early to start taking care of your skin!

While people cannot stop themselves from growing older, they can minimize many external factors and their effects on the aging process. Gracefully growing older is a learned art; like any skill, it takes knowledge, patience, and practice. For results that show, it is important for clients to approach their anti-aging routine in a holistic manner. They are never too young to start! Cosmetics alone are not enough to stave off the aging process. While they are important, clients should also focus on their diet and state of well-being; they should pay attention to everything they put in and on their body, including food, thoughts, people, emotions, weather, and the air they breathe.

Snail Mucus

In the never-ending quest for the fountain of youth, there seems to be no boundaries when it comes to sussing out the strangest, most bizarre, and slimiest of elements. One of the most interesting and trendy ingredients to surface in the name of beauty is snail mucus, or snail filtrate.

Inflammation

Inflammation is the result of several internal and external issues.

Inflammation presents physically on the skin in the form of acne, rosacea, and visible signs of aging.

Although inflammation may affect the appearance of the skin, it can be seen as a good thing as it is the body's way of defending itself from bacteria and viruses.

Common causes of inflammation include stress, unhealthy diet, lack of sleep, pollution, sun exposure and allergies.

ALGAE

While the thought of putting slimy, green seaweed on a client’s face may not sound so appealing, marine seaweed, also referred to as alga, has become the ingredient of choice in skin care today. More than likely, clients have been using it for some time without even realizing it. Everything from facial cleansers and toners to serums and night creams touts some variation of this power-packed species from the sea.

Fact or Fiction: Toothpaste clears pimples.

Pimples happen to the best of us. No matter how diligent clients are with their cleansing routine, every now and then a pore can become blocked and an uninvited guest takes up residence on the face.

Creative Seasonal Add-ons Keep Customers Coming Back All Year Long

Trips to the spa are a client’s favorite way to nurture themselves from external stressors, regardless of the season. Whether life has them down, they need an escape, or they just want to celebrate the weather, aesthetic and spa services are the perfect, nurturing treat. Make sure spa offerings reflect what is en vogue, in-season, and weather sensitive.

Skin Care MYTHS: Cucumbers treat puffy eyes.

STATEMENT: Cucumbers treat puffy eyes.

What’s your recipe for weaning clients off bad skin care habits?

Skin care professionals should begin by differentiating themselves from department stores and retailers by doing all consultations in the treatment room. The client should be laid down, skin cleansed, then analyzed through a magnifying lens. Find out what the client's concerns are. These will lead the professional to discover their habits. Every client has a goal – something they want to change about their complexion. The client can be handed a mirror and asked exactly what they like and do not like about their skin.

The Must Have Menu Necessary Skin Care Treatments for any Spa Menu

When you create your spa menu, you should be clear about representing your level of knowledge, your training, and who and what you are. Choose a business model that differentiates you from others. Your menu should be a testament to your skin care philosophy and your personal strengths as a professional. Once you figure this out, you need to take into consideration the marketplace in which you are working, the local audience, and trends to create your final brochure. Your brochure should combine your core beliefs and understanding of the marketplace. Be competitive and offer tried-and-true services. To be profitable, you will need to make sure you have pre-mediated and strong retail components to your brochure. Lastly, use your brochure as the basis for a strong marketing effort to get your name and brand into the public.

Love Your Clients’ Bodies As You Do Their Faces

Throughout time, women have created homemade body creams to smooth, soften, and keep their bodies youthful. Commercialized body creams have only been in the marketplace for the past century. The plethora of options available can often be confusing to clients. As aestheticians, it is important that we educate ourselves in the treatment of body skin care as well. This highly-lucrative market is often overlooked by aestheticians. However, it is our responsibility to help our clients create body skin care routines to exfoliate, slim, fight age, and protect against environmental stressors.

February 2024

Skin Care Blogs

Brands of the Month

  • Repechage
  • Celluma by Biophotas, Inc
  • Eminence Organic Skin Care