Game Changers

Walk through the leading ingredients, products, equipment, and treatments that changed the aesthetics game. Read about their origin and how they evolved into the industry giants they are today.

moisturizersMOISTURIZERS WITH SPF
THEN – In August of 1980, a DERMASCOPE author, writing about FDA laws and regulations, noted that "moisturizers and sun block are now viewed as cosmetics, but some day may be determined an over-the-counter (OTC) drug."
NOW – As melanoma rates soar, clients are being urged to apply sunscreen every day. Many companies have alleviated this client concern by adding SPF to daily moisturizers, allowing clients to moisturize and protect in one simple step.

soft-waxSOFT WAX
THEN – In many ancient cultures, body hair was considered unclean and uncivilized. While many methods were used to remove hair, waxing strips did not make their debut until the mid-1960s.
NOW – Soft wax has developed into the go-to hair removal method for large areas of skin and for clients who prefer to be waxed quickly. Laboratories Reynard has consistently led the industry in soft-wax with products such as Argan Oil Lukewarm Wax.

ORGANIC SKIN CARE PRODUCTS
THEN – Although the organic movement seems to be fairly recent, the 1995 January/February issue of DERMASCOPE was ahead of the curve: "Despite glossy advertising and dramatic short-term results, commonly-used skin care treatments today have chemicals that can actually damage long-term health."
NOW – As clients become more aware of the chemicals being used in their skin care products, many companies are stepping up to the plate to provide the industry with safe, non-toxic alternatives to harmful chemicals. With their professional skin care line, Dr. Spiller Pure Skin Care Solutions is leading the industry in this change.

glycolic-acidGLYCOLIC ACID
THEN – In 1992, a DERMASCOPE article praised glycolic acid and predicted that the "'sweet solution' [would] undoubtedly become one of the most popular aesthetic money makers of the 1990s."
NOW – Glycolic acid is still a strong contender in the industry as it is the smallest and most dramatic of the acids. It is the main ingredient in many leading products, including Gentle Facial Wash by GlyMed Plus®.

LIP PLUMPING
THEN – When lip plumping first started, fullness was achieved through irritants and tingle factors. Products often irritated the lips until a healing mode was stimulated. In an effort to heal itself, the lips became full and the plumping effect was achieved.
NOW – Lip plumping products have moved away from irritation and have started to encourage fullness through the creation of vasodilation. Today, products focus on allowing the lips to develop collagen and elastin, which, in turn, creates plumping.

PRIVATE LABEL
THEN – Private labels were not truly seen by aestheticians and spas until the mid-1990s. At that time, manufacturers would print all pertinent information on silk-screens andprivate-label simply put the aesthetician's name on a sticker on the bottle. Furthermore, the bottles typically included information for the manufacturer rather than the aesthetician.
NOW – With the advancement of technology, such as the ink jet printer and digital printing, private labeling has become much more cost-effective and efficient for the skin care professional. CBI Laboratories is one of the leading, private label manufacturers that professionals and spas can utilize.

RESVERATROL
THEN – Found in the skin of grapes, DERMASCOPE celebrated the ingredient 10 years ago as "an important tool in fighting against aging skin."
NOW – This ingredient has been utilized by a number of leading skin care companies, including ATZEN Superior to Organic™ Skin Care. Their DNA Repair Serum™ employs the anti-aging benefits of this unique ingredient.

SUNSCREEN
THEN – The first major sunscreen product was brought to market in 1936 by the founder of L'Oreal®, but it was not until 1977 that water-resistant protection was introduced.
NOW – Sunscreens now come in all shapes and sizes and have a variety of purposes. Today, they can be found in the form of makeup setting sprays and lip care, often featuring physical ingredients such as zinc oxide.

microdermabrasionMICRODERMABRASION
THEN – In 1985, Mattioli Engineering developed the first microdermabrasion machine in response to the risks of dermabrasion.
NOW – Microdermabrasion is now one of the most requested treatments at spas around the country. Bio-Therapeutic has consistently produced quality microdermabrasion machines, including the Bio-Brasion® TRINITY.

PEPTIDES
THEN – A 2005 issue of DERMASCOPE noted that topical peptides had recently emerged as another new class of anti-aging ingredients.
NOW – The influence of peptides can be seen all over the industry as it is used in a number of products. As a leader in the industry, Bioelements® combines peptides with other ingredients in their overnight cream, Sleepwear.

SERUMSserums
THEN – The first serums, commercially produced in 1930, were created to reduce wrinkles and tighten the face and were generally based on albumin. These serums were typically packaged in tiny bottles because they were susceptible to bacteria and fungus and had a short shelf life.
NOW – Serums still tend to be packaged in tiny bottles and now use a wide variety of ingredients to achieve their purpose. The concentrated active ingredients in serums have small molecules that allow for penetration of the epidermis. Beta Gel by Danné Montague-King® is a leader in these gel-like, water-
based products.

INTENSE PULSED LIGHT
THEN – The January 2005 issue of DERMASCOPE stated, "Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) seems to be the technology of choice for facial rejuvenation."
NOW – Ten years later, IPL has continued to maintain its role as a top choice for facial rejuvenation and hair removal. It has also grown to service a number of other medical problems, including vascular lesions and dyschromia.

hydroxy-acidsHYDROXY ACIDS
THEN – In 1990, hydroxy acids were introduced to the skin care industry with the development of alpha hydroxy acids. By 1993, over 50 new products containing alpha hydroxy acids were introduced into the United States marketplace. Other hydroxy acids, such as glycolic, lactic, and salicylic soon followed suit.
NOW – Clients are hard pressed to find an exfoliating product that does not include one of the hydroxy acids. This ingredient's staying power is due to its ability to consistently produce positive results. BSB Nature to Glamour Peel is one of the Bella Schneider Beauty products that utilizes hydroxy acids and yields optimistic outcomes.

HYDROTHERAPY
THEN – In History of the Kings of Britain, Geoffrey of Monmouth stated that in 836 B.C.E. British king, Bladud, was the first to build the now Roman baths. During the Roman occupation, the bath was stabilized, enclosed, and included a hot, warm, and cold bath.
NOW – Hydrotherapy has grown tremendously since the Roman public baths. Today, a number of hydrotherapy treatments can be performed in the spa due to the growth of this field. Clients can now enjoy jet baths and showers, underwater massages, Vichy and Swiss showers, scotch hose treatments, and foot and hand baths.

TONERS
THEN – The 1981 October issue of DERMASCOPE described toners as "having compounds within them which break down the molecular bonds of the cleanser, serving almost as a magnet when used with a pad or cloth."
NOW – Far from being applied only with a pad or cloth, toners, which are often seen in the form of sprays, have come to find a serious place in skin care. More and more clients are starting to realize that toners are essential rather than optional. Skin Blends' toner, Age Defying Hydrating Toner, has helped encourage the growth of the toner in skin care.

masksMASKS
THEN – The history of the mask can be traced back to ancient times in Egypt and China. Both Cleopatra and Yang Gui Fei were known to use masks made from a number of ingredients including clay, pearls, ginseng, and lotus root starch.
NOW – While masks are still used to improve the skin, the different types of masks available to clients today have blossomed. Accessible masks are based on cream, mud, clay, gel, oil and more. Eminence Organic Skin Care's Balancing Masque Duo achieves the main purpose of the mask, to detoxify, replenish, and repair the skin.

PERMANENT MAKEUPpermanent-makeup
THEN – Around the beginning of the 20th century, tattoo artist George Burchett became a pioneer of permanent makeup when many well-to-do women came to his studio for cosmetic tattoos.
NOW – This specialty is now one of the fastest growing sectors of the beauty industry. With the new name micropigmentation, permanent makeup has become much more refined. Clients can now experience a very natural, soft look that is essentially indistinguishable from makeup or real hair.

MEN'S SKIN CARE PRODUCTS
THEN – A 1984 issue of DERMASCOPE noted that "cosmetic companies are starting to respond to men's increased interest in skin care and appearance with product lines formulated especially for them."
NOW – More and more companies are answering the increasing demands of men's skin care. In 2014, 47 percent of spa visitors were men. One of the leading hair removal companies in men's products is Nufree. Their product line, Nufree 4 men only, specifically caters to hair removal needs for men.

peeling-agentPEELING AGENTS
THEN – Although peeling dates back almost three centuries, modern day chemical peeling originally was promoted by dermatologists such as P.G. Unna who first described the properties of salicylic acid, resorcinol, phenol, and trichloroacetic acid.
NOW – Far from the harsh after-effects typically seen in the beginning, peeling agents have made an impressive evolution. Peels are now very gentle and employ a variety of non-acid ingredients. Fruit Enzyme Peels by A Natural Difference™ Skin Care harness the natural power of fruit for a gentle and effective peel.

ESSENTIAL OILS
THEN – While the use of herbs and plants for medicinal purposes dates back to ancient times, renowned writers from the Middle East, such as Persian polymath Avicenna and Islamic botanist and physician Ibn al-Baitair, endorsed the use of herbs and essential oils in 1017 C.E.
NOW – This year alone, essential oils have experienced a vast resurgence in popularity. With the natural trend picking up steam, clients look toward plants and aromatherapy as alternatives to other treatments. Eve Taylor® leads the way in this field with their essential oils, Aromatic Serums.

SEAWEED
THEN – The July/August 1989 issue of DERMASCOPE Magazine praised seaweed as "highly effective in smoothing, moisturizing, toning, and replenishing the skin." Its use in skin care for preventative and remedial treatments can be traced back to 60 B.C.E.
NOW – The therapeutic use of seaweed is starting to gain traction with widespread acclaim in the United States. Furthermore, additional research has shown that the harvesting and transformation process should follow strict procedures.

 

BB CREAM
THEN – The first blemish balm was developed in Germany in the late 1960s by dermatologist Christine Schrammek. Schrammek developed this cream for her patients to use after they had finished peeling or facial treatments.
NOW – Despite being huge in Asia for quite some time, BB creams only found their way onto United States shelves in the spring of 2011. Today, almost every major beauty company has a BB cream. This cream paved the way for CC, DD, and even EE creams. In spite of the influx of BB creams onto the market, Dr. med. Christine Schrammek Kosmetik still leads the way with her original BB cream, Blemish Balm Classic.

hyaluronic-acidHYALURONIC ACID
THEN – In 1975, Ella Brummer (Ella Baché Cosmetics) and Dr. Janet Denlinger, Ph.D. developed the first cosmetic product that contained high-average, molecular weight hyaluronan combined with protein. In 1984, Biomatrix developed Hyladerm/Polyox®, a high-molecular weight hyaluronan.
NOW – Hyaluronic acid still occupies a large role in the skin care industry. In fact, hyaluronic acid is now the most frequently-used filler in the United States. Its ability to help the skin retain moisture continues to drive leading companies to use the ingredient in their products, including HYDRO ACTIVE Hyaluron Filler Caps by Dr. Grandel Kosmetik.

 

RETINOL
THEN – 1983 saw the pioneer application of tretinoin in the management of skin aging. The breakthrough research of Dr. Albert Kligman was published a few years later. The 1988 July/August issue of DERMASCOPE stated that the "main factor in dealing with aging skin is to incorporate topical tretinoin...with a skin care program."
NOW – Since 1983, increased research and development has established more stable forms of vitamin A derivatives that are available for topical-use applications without a prescription. As a result, milder, retinol-containing compounds are available over the counter, such as Dermalogica's Overnight Retinol Repair.

 

 

lipstickLIPSTICK
THEN – Around 3500 B.C.E., Schub-ad of ancient Ur (Sumer) used a lip colorant made with a base of white lead and crushed red rocks. This trend then spread to the neighboring Assyrians and both men and women began painting their lips red.
NOW – Clients now have the ability to choose from a variety of lipsticks. Developments with this popular makeup choice include high glosses and mattes, long-wear, smudge-proof, and lipsticks that come in virtually any color imaginable. A leader in the makeup industry, Cinema Secrets has greatly contributed to the popularity of game changer with their lipstick, Ultimate Lipstick.

MICROCURRENTmicrocurrent
THEN – Thomas W. Wing is credited with introducing a microcurrent instrument found to be beneficial in the treatment of muscles in 1980. Soon after, in 1983, DERMASCOPE wrote about its ability to "stimulate and reactivate" muscle fibers, increase blood circulation, and add tonicity to the face.
NOW – Microcurrent is still commonly used today to restore normal frequencies within the cells, resulting in remarkable improvements in skin inflammation and function. Within the last decade, scientists have noted other uses for microcurrent, including improved degenerative eye diseases.

 

EPIDERMAL GROWTH FACTORS
THEN – The 1995 May/June issue of DERMASCOPE was eager to educate skin care professionals on the latest ingredient: "In the coming months, you may be hearing a lot about a new skin care ingredient called Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF). Epidermal Growth Factor is the single most important substance for development and maintenance of both the epidermis and dermis."
NOW – Twenty years later, Epidermal Growth Factors are still a force with which to be reckoned. As growth factor therapy is now being used in the treatment of wounds, the support for this ingredient has only been strengthened by further evidence of its regenerative properties. Rhonda Allison continues to be the principal authority in this ingredient, as demonstrated by their product Growth Factor Serum Plus.

LIGHT-EMITTING DIODE (LED)
THEN – In 1903, Dr. Niels Finsen was awarded the Nobel Prize in Physiology or Medicine for his work with phototherapy. Finsen believed that wavelengths of light could have beneficial medical effects; he used red light to treat smallpox lesions.
NOW – Since 1903, a large assortment of treatments have developed around LED/light therapy. Not only does this treatment repair the dermis, it can remove signs of aging from the epidermis and has been shown to be helpful in the management of psoriasis and vitiligo.

LASER HAIR REMOVAL
THEN – Although they were invented in the early 1960s, hair removal lasers were not approved by the FDA until 1997. The first lasers used for hair removal were very rudimentary, often damaging both the hair follicle and surrounding skin.
NOW – Hair removal lasers have come a long way since the 1960s. Not only are they safe for the surrounding skin, but they are no longer limited to clients with light skin and dark hair. Aerolase's LightPod Neo is one of the top-performing lasers that makes it possible for clients of all skin types to enjoy this treatment.

plant-stem-cellsPLANT STEM CELLS
THEN – This super ingredient exploded onto the skin care scene about three years ago due to their mechanism of action and the end result of increasing cell energy, cell repair, and cell turnover for optimal growth and renewal.
NOW – Plant stems cells are still very dominant in the industry and are currently undergoing research into how they can best be utilized for clients and their skin. Pevonia has been instrumental in increasing and bettering the use of plant stem cells in skin care with their Stem Cells Phyto-Elite® Collection.

BRIGHTENING AGENTS
THEN – In the 1980s, hydroquinone was the go-to ingredient for skin brightening. This bleaching agent proved to be problematic because it lightened the cell, but prohibited the return of melanin. Long-term use of hydroquinone actually made hyperpigmentation worse.
NOW – While hydroquinone is currently banned in the European Union, a variety of brightening agents that are safe to use and provide results have entered the market. Such ingredients include arbutin and kojic and azelaic acids. Clients need not look any further than Circadia by Dr. Pugliese's White Veil Brightener for an effective brightener.

EYE AND LIP CARE
THEN – Because the eyes and the lips are often the first to show signs of aging, these areas have always been a cause of concern. Care for the eye area previously focused on immediate results and ingredients that condensed on the skin when dry. Lip care also previously consisted of using petroleum and silicone-based products.
NOW – Eye and lip care now focus on feeding the skin healthy fats that encourage cells to produce collagen and elastin. Lip care has also moved away from occlusive barriers toward lip balms that utilize healthy oils such as hemp and emu. PHYTO-CONTOUR by
YON-KA Paris contours these delicate areas and encourages the use of nourishing ingredients for long-term results.

DAILY EXFOLIATORS
THEN – The long history of mechanical exfoliation is seen in almost every part of the world. American Indians used dried corncobs while Polynesians used crushed sea shells. Chemical exfoliation also has an extensive history as sour milk and old wine were used by the Egyptians and during the Middle Ages, respectively. It was also widely believed that exfoliating every day was damaging to the skin.
NOW – While these two methods of exfoliation have remained constant, exfoliation is consistently changing. Hydroxy acids and phenols have gained popularity for chemical exfoliation while microbeads are on their way out in regard to mechanical exfoliation. Guinot is helping to encourage the healthy practice of daily exfoliation with their innovative product, Gommage Eclat Parfait.

sunless-tannersSUNLESS TANNERS
THEN – Until the 1920s, tan skin was a sign of poverty and the working class. A creamy complexion was the embodiment of beauty and wealth. Powdery, pale skin that rarely saw the sun signified glamour and luxury. That all changed when Coco Chanel got a little too much sun on one of her yacht trips in the Cannes in 1923 and sparked a trend.
NOW – In the mid-1980s, and in an effort to curb the harmful effects of tanning and tanning beds, many companies and clients have been turning to sunless tanning to achieve that sun-kissed look. Norvell Skin Solutions, a leader in the tanning industry, offers sunless tanning products that give a naturally-tanned look, such as their Venetian Sunless Solution.

SENSITIVITY PRODUCTSsensitivity-products
THEN – In the past, many skin care professionals and dermatologists recommended Dove products for clients who had issues with sensitivity and reactions to aesthetics ingredients.
NOW – Advancements in sensitive skin care products have been vast. From milk products to all natural, non-toxic options, clients with sensitivities have a plethora of options. Jindilli has greatly contributed to the growth of sensitivity products through the use of gentle macadamia oil in their Gentle Cleansing Milk.

sugaringSUGARING
THEN – Although sugaring has been around in some shape or form throughout history, it is believed that Persians used honey as the first sugaring agent in 1900 B.C.E. Modern methods of sugaring consisted of pastes that were limited to one sugar type.
NOW – Today, sugaring pastes have been changed and executed to provide the best possible hair removal experience for clients of all skin types and hair textures. Alexandria Professional® uses five different sugar paste consistencies to accommodate a variety of environmental conditions.

HARD WAXhard-wax
THEN – While waxing and hair removal did not become popular in the United States until the development of the bathing suit in the 1940s, waxing and hair removal has been practiced in Middle Eastern societies since 4000 B.C.E.
NOW – As the demand for waxing increased, hard wax developed as a long-term alternative to shaving and tweezing. The strip-less waxing method has been perfected by Perron Rigot and their waxing product, Cirepil Blue.

RAW SKIN  CARE
THEN – Raw, herbal medicines have been around thousands of years, typically in the form of oils. Ancient civilizations believed that more healing powers were harnessed from plants that had not been altered or destructed by heat.
NOW – Due mainly to the popularity of the raw food movement, it is now commonly accepted that low-heat, uncooked herbal ingredients keep nutrients intact. ilike organic skin care pioneered whole, raw, and complete skin care solutions for skin care professionals.

ULTRASOUND
THEN – Ultrasound has been used safely in the medical community since the early 1970s. Physicians used sound waves to increase blood flow and deliver thermal and kinetic energy to injured tissue.
NOW – Commercially known as ultherapy, this treatment was approved by the FDA for lifting and tightening in the eyebrow area in 2009. In 2013, ultrasound therapy was also FDA approved for the neck and chin area.

milk-productsMILK PRODUCTS
THEN – In 1983, DERMASCOPE praised milk products as being "natural sources of protein." This issue even included a milk bath recipe, composed of one cup powdered skim milk, 1/2 cup oatmeal, and 10 drops sweet clover oil.
NOW – Milk products have recently gained popularity as a great choice for those with skin sensitivities. This ingredient can be soothing for clients who suffer from eczema, psoriasis, and other itchy/inflamed skin conditions.

 

 

 

References
111 Skin. (2014, May 19). The History of Retinol.
Advanced Laser and Anti-Aging Medical Center. (2013, August 23). A Brief History of Laser Hair Removal.
D'Allaird-Brenner, M. Personal communication. September 11, 2015.
Darlenski, R., Surber, C., & Fluhr, J. W. (2010). Topical retinoids in the management of photodamaged skin: From theory to evidence-based practical approach. British Journal of Dermatology, 163(6), 1157-65.
Geoffrey of Monmouth. (1977). The History of the Kings of Britain (1st ed.). (L. Thorpe, Trans.). London, England: Penguin Group.
Goldberg, D.J. (2012, June). Current Trends in Intense Pulsed Light. The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 5(6): 45-53.
Hanson, G. Personal communication. September 15, 2015.
Kennedy, J. F., Phillips, G. O., Williams, P. A., & Hascall, V.C. (2002). Hyaluronan. Cambridge: Woodhead Publishing, Ltd.
Krakow, A. (1994). PERMANENT MAKEUP: JUST ANOTHER NAME FOR A TATTOO...BUT NOTHING IS FOREVER: THE ART OF TATTOO REMOVAL. In Total Tattoo Book. New York, NY: Warner Books.
Obi, L. J. (2013, November 18). THE LOST ART OF ABLATIVE CHEMICAL PEELS.
Schaffer, S. (2006). Reading Our Lips: The History of Lipstick Regulation in Western Seats of Power (Third Year Paper).
Skin Business. (n.d.). History of Microdermabrasion.
The Human Touch of Chemistry. (n.d.). History
of Sunscreens.
The Official Website of the Nobel Prize. (n.d.). Niels Ryberg Finsen - Biographical.
Young Living Essential Oils. (2015, April 15). Essential Oils in the Ancient World: Part II.

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