All skin discolorations need to be addressed the same way. It's important not to camouflage, but to blend natural color into the discolored area. This applies to port wine stain birthmarks, rosacea (red pustular lesions), vitiligo (patches of unpigmented skin), bruising and any skin discoloration resulting from chemotherapy and radiation treatment.
When selecting product to place on these discolored areas, you need to use one that is user-friendly and highly pigmented and one that will not cause any skin irritation. When in doubt, I always recommend a quick and simple allergy test by applying different products. The inside area of the elbow or directly below and behind the ear are two areas which will give you accurate results.
Apply the product to the skin and let set for 24-hours. If there is no redness or itching, followed by inflammation, this should signal a neutral factor in the make-up where there was no allergic reaction.
When I teach my corrective seminars to cosmetologists, I like to preface any make-up application by first cleaning the skin. This is an extremely important preparation step that should not be ignored. Whether the skin has discolorations or not, a good alcohol-free skin primer is suggested. Birthmarks and rosacea have a rougher texture. Using a primer with a silicone base before make-up is applied will help create a protective layer, allowing the skin to look smoother once make-up is applied. Allow the primer to dry 60-90 seconds and then apply your foundation. On the eyelid area, I suggest using an eye shadow primer versus a skin primer. The eyelid is composed of thinner skin with more fine lines and wrinkles. An eyelid primer will visually fill in those lines and will allow eye shadow color to look smoother and stronger once applied to the lid.
For dark complexions, I recommend using a highly pigmented foundation with no oils or petroleum jelly to break it down. The same applies for extremely fair complexions and with same finished results. I also recommend that when applying a foundation to any areas where there is skin discoloration, to use a pat or stipple motion. This will allow the color to build on top with a thin, natural look. Once the discoloration on the face has been properly covered, I recommend setting the foundation with a loose transluscent powder and with a professional size powder puff. Press into the foundation. Excess powder can be brushed off using a circular motion. This application is important for preventing wrinkles from showing around the eyes and mouth and for an 8-10 hour fresh and natural hold. Should the skin feel rough or uneven following the application of the powder, use a 1" flat sable brush to buff all areas of the face. Using long strokes will help add smoothness to the make-up.
Skin discolorations are challenging. However, once you have the basic tools and methods in which to work from, the rewards are visually satisfying. It is important to remember your goal is to bring the natural skin tones to the surface and blend with smooth, even results. I always recommend first "testing" foundations. Naturally, with any red discolorations to the skin, a neutralizing foundation will help diminish the redness and bring a natural and more healthy tone to the skin. These guidelines are also helpful should you ever be called upon to cover-up a tattoo, regardless of its color or size. When concealing on the body and if concerned about any rub-off after following these application techniques, I recommend using a liquid sealer that can be sprayed directly on the area you're covering. Two to three applications with a 60 second drying time in between will allow for a firmer hold. It's also best to spray 12" from the skin. I have also found the liquid spray sealer to be an important finishing tool for bridal make-up, indoor and outdoor photo shoots, and with humid climates.
Maurice Stein is founder, owner and operator of Cinema Secrets in Burbank, CA. His long list of film and television credits as a Hollywood make-up artist has earned him the reputation of being one of the industry's premier elite masters of fashion and corrective make-up. "Planet of the Apes," the original "Star Trek" series, "Funny Girl" with Barbra Streisand and the hit NBC sitcom "Golden Girls" where he established the old-age look for Estelle Getty's character "Sophia" are just a sampling of his work history. His seminars in all areas of make-up and corrective techniques are taught around the world and through the National Cosmetology Association. A leading advocate in helping burn survivors look and feel their very best, Maurice Stein has become a figurehead with burn institutes and hospitals around the country and with dermatologists and plastic surgeons. Stein is also an entrepreneur, having launched his own Cinema Secrets Ultimate Foundation and product line for the general public and film/television industry. For more information, please contact Maurice Stein at: Cinema Secrets, 4400 Riverside Dr., Burbank, CA 91507 (818) 846-0579 or at www.cinemasecrets.com
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